30 degrees and "flat" timing has slight ping here and there until the temperature dropped later today below 20C and then all fine. I've weakened the idle jets 1/16 and the tickeover is absolutely rock solid. like an electric motor! I am running the coldest (and recommended) NGK 7 heat range plugs.
As you know my R65 flywheel / clutch carrier is not in the right position. I thought it was 180 out, but of course with 5 mounting bolts it can only be 0, 72, 114, 216 or 288 degrees out.
I timed up using a probe down the plug hole and the bean can was set about half way in it's travel to get that. I put a paint blob where the static timing was on my clutch carrier. Strobed static and all ran fine with very occasional ping under heavy load on a very hot day.
Now I have my Silent Hektik ignition, I am getting more pinging at the recommended (for STANDARD bikes) 32 degrees and steep (early advance) curve and a much improved idle. Retarding it by using the flatter (not as flat as the bean can) curve and 30 degree full advance has almost got rid of the problem. I timed it by using the factory marks with the sensor 180 out. My painted mark lined up static as it did before. I don't have a full advance mark.
I'm completely confused now though. The crank can't be 180 out as it has 5 mounting holes. That is unless the big ends are set 36 degrees away from the bolts. Which looking at crank pics online, looks about right! So 0 is -36, 72 is 36, 114 is 78, 216 is 180 (!!!) and 288 is 252.
Can anyone confirm this please. I don't plan on getting the clutch out just to re-align the timing marks. I feel I may be 2 or 3 degrees over-advanced static but definitely not 36! If the crank is (sy) 40 degrees or 30 degrees in relation to the 5 mounting bolts, then that is the problem.
(Additionally, if anyone does know R65 rod length that will help as I have a dial gauge that I can angle down the plug hole)