My R65 flat quit on me...

[montmil]

Rick Jones contacted me yesterday, Saturday 23 Nov 08, to say my awol bean can overhaul was being shipped to me on Monday. Hallelujah!

Now looking forward to installing the part, crossing fingers and seeing if the R65 will make steam. Will check back when there's more info.

[MrRiden]

Just looking at the diagram that nhmaf  kindly provided and was wondering, is it really necessary to use a DPST [double pole single throw] switch or would a single pole be just fine? Thinking of building a few as they look pretty simple but I'm not electronics trained. Also why would you need to keep the ignition switch off? It seems to be that by unplugging the can it would be isolated, you could then crank the starter [with test set connected] to perform the test. Keep in mind I'm electronically challenged.
rich
who is going to annoy the kids at radio shack.
[/quote]

[nothing]

is it really necessary to use a DPST [double pole single throw] switch or would a single pole be just fine?  Also why would you need to keep the ignition switch off? It seems to be that by unplugging the can it would be isolated, you could then crank the starter [with test set connected] to perform the test.

No switches at all are necessary - just unhook the battery to turn it off. Yes, you can use it with the starter cranking, as unhooking the bean can to attach the tester does take it completely out of the loop, although it does keep the ICU energized - some versions of the ICU don't like that, but some later versions have an auto-shutoff feature to avoid damage. Simply pulling power to the ICU as well makes everything safe.

See my circuit above for a much simpler and easier to build tester - I've made a couple of them without a single solder or crimp.

[MrRiden]

Ok that's in parallel with a 12v LED but if I used a 2.5v LED the resistor goes in series instead. Do I have that right?  
rich

[nothing]

Ok that's in parallel with a 12v LED but if I used a 2.5v LED the resistor goes in series instead. Do I have that right?  
rich

I believe a parallel resistor should be used either way. This functions as a "pull-up" on the output of the hall sensor as specified in the application notes - I feel it's better safe than sorry when dealing with these rather sensitive sensors, but others say it can be omitted.

If you are using an LED without a built-in resistor, then yes, a resistor should be added in series, size determined by the current requirements of the LED.

[MrRiden]

Ok got it but then...some raccoon wearing guy shows the LED between the sensor and the NEG terminal on the battery! Sheesh!

[nothing]

Ok got it but then...some raccoon wearing guy shows the LED between the sensor and the NEG terminal on the battery! Sheesh!

That circuit is the same as mine, it just has the LED in a different place. When the LED is on in my circuit the LED would be off in his circuit, and vice-versa. Makes no difference functionally.

[nhmaf]

With that little low voltage LED, you do need the 1K series resistor to limit the current into the hall effect sensor, or your risk damaging it.  The 12V LEDs are just a LED with a series resistor already in it.  You'll more likely damage the hall effect device before burning out the LED if you don't have a 12V LED/resistor combo and don't have some current limiting resistor in series.

[montmil]

IT'S ALIVE !

My Hall sender "Bean Can" finally found its way home from Northern Alabama. Rick Jones was kind enough to put up with my weekly Where is it? emails from his impatient customer.

FYI, Motoraad subcontracts the overhaul work and the gentleman that does the work for Rick was called out-of-town for a lengthy work period. Not anything anyone could do about it but... I want to ride my motorpickle.

After a very precise reinstall and static timing... as in, Line up the pencil marks from where I took it off, I chicken-choked that puppy and hit the switch. Having sat dry and still for almost six weeks, it took a moment for the engine to catch. Wind, wind, wind... and I'm thinking, Jeez! It ain't the bean-o can.

Wrong! That puppy fired off and sounds quite crisp. It's colder'n a well diggers belt buckle here but I'm going for a ride.  Later, lads.

Monte [smiley=clap.gif]

[fastcataz]

Ride on man, and wear long undies...

[Justin B.]

Ride on over and help me pull the jugs off this '82! That'll get a nice ride under your belt...

[Yikes]

Glad to hear the '81 is back on the road.  It's always nice when the thing you spent mucho dinero on and waited weeks for actually fixes the problem you had!

JM

[not-so-fast-ed]

Amen, Yikes! [smiley=idea2.gif]

[StanG]

Very interesting thread but I am not familiar with the electrical components of my bike.  The 09 MOA rally will be my first long trip on my recently restored 82 R65 and I need to assemble spare parts for the trip.  As a former scout I like to be prepared for the worst.  Assuming money wasn't a limitation what electrical parts would you carry on long trip?

I appreciate the input.

[Justin B.]

You did specify electrical (although I would imagine you will get lists containing spare tires, etc   ).  I would feel comfortable with:

Electrical tape and tie-wraps
Alternator rotor
Regulator
Bean-can
Fuses
A few feet of 14 AWG wire
Bulbs

If you are running with your original coil then I would definitely carry a replacement "Dyna" coil.  These things seem to wait until the most inopportune time to go south...