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Author Topic: torque wrench  (Read 1252 times)

Offline Bill Conquest

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torque wrench
« on: October 28, 2008, 04:53:46 PM »
Does anyone have a recommendation about which torque wrench to buy? I've been looking at the Northern Tool site & see a large range from 40.00 to 300.00! I presently have a cheap one ( the kind with the bar that points to the number when torqued). Are the "clicker" type o.k. - have seen some for reasonable money. Any thoughts on this are appreciated by this novice mechanic!
Bill Conquest
79 r65/75 r60/76r75/76r100

Offline montmil

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Re: torque wrench
« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2008, 06:16:50 PM »
Both styles are OK. Both styles may need to have their accuracy checked every few years... so say the "experts".

Personally, I try not to drop my beam-style Craftsman torquer and it has served me well for over 30 years. Still lives in its original box and foam cushion. I have built a number of VW Type 1 engines with it, along with work on my Cabriolet and Beemer.

You can spend a lot with the brand names. I would avoid the low-ball $ Chinese Harbor Freight varieties. Shop with your budget and take good care of what you buy. I have never met anyone who has ever been accused of under-torquing a bolt! As my Granddaddy said when I asked him how to torque cylinder head bolts, "Snug 'er down 'til she pops, then back off half a turn." Crazy old man...

Monte
Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Offline nhmaf

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Re: torque wrench
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2008, 08:00:07 PM »
The beam types are less glamorous, but if handled with proper care they'll last a long time and stay accurate.
The clicker types have greater potential for mechanical failure/error, so definitely don't get a cheapy one if getting a clicker wrench.
I have a beam wrench for my stuff under 70 ft pounds.  Might get a clicker for either a much lower or much higher range.   The beam wrenches
need more working room, typically, which

The Sears Craftsmen wrenches still have the Craftsman tool guarantee, at least in the U.S. of A - another plus.
Airhead #12178 ? BMWMOA #123173 ?BMWRA #33525 ?GSBMWR #563 ?1982 BMW R65LS ?1978 BMW R100/7 1998 Kawasaki Concours

Offline Justin B.

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Re: torque wrench
« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2008, 10:24:22 PM »
I picked up a NOS SK 3/8" drive beam type on e-Bay for around $15 a while back.  It's calibrated in lb/in and lb/ft and perfect for head torquing and the swingarm bearing preload.  
Justin B.

2004 BMW R1150RT
1981 R100RT - Summer bike, NEKKID!!!

Offline MrRiden

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Re: torque wrench
« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2008, 10:32:53 PM »
Craftsman are decent middle range tools. I have a 30yr old beam and love its simplicity. I also have a newer click type voodoo one that I just can't resist checking against the beam one. Both are sufficient for werk on the livery of vehicles here at the ranch. Just a warning, these wrenches are nice but they won't prevent problems caused by incorrect torque specs that have been published even by the factory!! Know your bolt grades and their limits. I like what Monte had to say and had similar instruction as his Granddaddy gave. There is an intuitive touch to snugging a bolt that a good mechanic has and you either have it, or you have a torque wrench.
rich
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(advice given to me by an old Italian gentelman)
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Jon_P

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Re: torque wrench
« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2008, 09:47:28 AM »
if your not making a living with using your tools you can go wrong with craftsmans, good price and a good tool that will last with some simple care given.

Danie

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Re: torque wrench
« Reply #6 on: October 29, 2008, 12:01:11 PM »
Somewhere in the past somebody told me that the adjusting knob on the clicker type should always be turned back to "zero" after the torque wrench has been used - aparantly the inner spring should not be under stress for long periods, as this could cause the torque wrench to be inaccurate.

Not sure if this is true, but I always turn the adjusting knob back to zero anyway........

Offline suecanada

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Re: torque wrench
« Reply #7 on: October 29, 2008, 01:08:46 PM »
I heard that too Danie and always turn it to "0" when I'm done. What happened to the old days when I just used to turn the wrench? Considering I do more work now than I did I guess it's a good idea to use the torque wrench on some jobs like the head bolts  but I did strip the fork oil drain bolts because i read the "too high and incorrect" torque for those wee tiny 10mm bolts. I think the "book" said 5-6 ft. lbs. for the drain bolt...yikes that is Waaay too much!! Hand "feel" is better with a light touch with the 10mm little BMW wrench.
1983 R65LS - LRB still my favourite!? 1988 Honda NX250, "Toodles Too" and a Suzuki DR650, "Calypso." All stored in the "Brrrmmm Closet".

Offline montmil

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Re: torque wrench
« Reply #8 on: October 29, 2008, 05:45:56 PM »
Quote
... you can go wrong with craftsmans...

Didya mean Can't go wrong with Craftsman?  ;)

Monte

Monte Miller
Denton, TEXAS
1978 BMW R100S
1981 BMW R65
1983 BMW R65
1995 Triumph Trophy
1986 VW Cabriolet

Offline nhmaf

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Re: torque wrench
« Reply #9 on: October 29, 2008, 08:21:59 PM »
I've also heard to reset the dial to "0" on those wrenches.   I think that it is the right thing to do - it may be many many many days before you go to use that wrench again, and you don't want that little spring to take a set and be off.
Airhead #12178 ? BMWMOA #123173 ?BMWRA #33525 ?GSBMWR #563 ?1982 BMW R65LS ?1978 BMW R100/7 1998 Kawasaki Concours