Replacing that cheap shifter linkage.....

[Justin B.]

That link was just to an e-Bay listing which is long gone, this is one on my '81 R100.  Cost is $30 and shipping/handling for domestic delivery is $3.50, if you want one just PM me.  Also, this probably should be in the technical section so am moving it there...

[Bob_Roller]

I have not installed my new shifter linkage from Justin, is drilling the current holes to a larger size necessary to install this new linkage ?

[Justin B.]

The studs are 1/4 x 28 and I believe the holes are 6 mm (if you currently have the factory adjustable rod) so they need to be opened up just a hair.  But, if you are switching from the "wire" type the holes are smaller than 6 mm so they would need to be drilled for the factory replacement selector rod as well...

[Bob_Roller]

Thanks Justin, just wondering if I needed to 'open up' the holes a bit.

Might get to it today, working in the garage now, and the bikes still need some attending to.

[Justin B.]

Have fun!

[montmil]

I have not installed my new shifter linkage from Justin, is drilling the current holes to a larger size necessary to install this new linkage ?

So I've now owned my R65 for just over 24 hours. Not quite an expert on the Beemer but I do have considerable experience building aircraft components. Here's my suggestion for opening up the shifter holes and installing the neat "Justin Job"...

Skip using a drill bit for the initial cut. It's just too easy for the bit to aggressively bite into the shift lever and hog out the hole into something resembling a junior high school shop class fiasco. Instead, use an aircraft-style reamer in 0.250-inch diameter.

If the original hole is really too small for the short taper on the reamer's working end, then go ahead and drill out the hole but in a smaller diameter. Then ream to the finished 0.250. I'll need to access my AC tool suppliers and then post a couple sources.

The reamer produces a precision hole superior to a drill bit. Better holes = better shifts.

[Bob_Roller]

I never thought of using a stepped reamer !

The ones I have are .185 in.'pilot', and then stepped up to .250 in.

What kind of aircraft maintenance experience do you have !

I'm an aircraft mechanic for Southwest Airlines here in Phoenix .

[Justin B.]

If nervous about drilling too far then you can use a stop collar on the drill bit.  As far as absolute precision is concerned it really is academic in this case as the stud at each end goes through the hole and is securely fastened with a lock-nut - all of the "movement" is in the actual joint.  But, I'm all for ANY excuse to buy a new tool!  

[montmil]

...What kind of aircraft maintenance experience do you have! I'm an aircraft mechanic for Southwest Airlines here in Phoenix.

Have built and flown two Experimental Category aircraft. Both plans built. A Rand KR2 taildragger with fixed main gear and a 1929-designed Pietenpol; open cockpit, parasol wing, lots of struts and wires. The two aircraft were at opposite ends of the performance spectrum. Both powered by self-built VW conversions. The KR hit 190mph on a two way average with two souls on board. The Piet was good at 65mph. With 3psi in the tundra tires, any field looked like an airport to me. Loved 'em both.
 
Did a bit of part tine mechanic work for a warbird shop. Mostly 100 hour inspections. Scored a few rides in P51s and other very cool birds.

Completed the oral exam for an A&P license but after deeper exploration of income potential, decided not to pursue it further. This was some years ago when many independent A&Ps were looking for work.

Do some flying now with the USAFAux/CAP. SAR, DEA support, Homeland Security...