Clutch alignment tool - Bob Roller 10/25/06

[Justin B.]

BobRoller Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 2:22 pm    Post subject: Clutch Alignment Tool

Being the cheap person that I am, I have a project coming up that will require removal of the clutch assembly. I have reinstalled the clutch assembly before, without the alignment tool, but I was probably real lucky to get it right the first time. So my request is, does anybody have the dimensions of the alignment tool, as I think I can make one up at work in 15-30 minutes on the small lathe that's there.

             
airhead Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 7:43 pm    Post subject:

Do you have a Haynes manual? If not I can post you a scan (in PDF) of the page that has a plan of the tool with dimensions on it.
Bill...............


RobValdez1979R65 Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:03 pm    Post subject:

I can measure mine when I get home


airhead Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:06 pm    Post subject:

Here are the plans in PDF on a shared download site. Just click where it says 'Download File' near the top left.

http://s8.quicksharing.com/v/6641653/clutch_tool.pdf.html

Bill...............


RobValdez1979R65 Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:09 pm    Post subject:

Yep, that is what mine looks like!


BillC Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 11:42 pm    Post subject:

Nice! That looks like what Ed Korn sent me. When are you going to do the clutch? I would hope you can take your time and not be in a rushed situation like I was. There were so many other things I would have liked to take the time to at least clean up while it was torn down.


BobRoller Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 9:05 am    Post subject:

Thanks for the dimensions, I've got 2 , 8 inch long 1 inch diameter pieces of round aluminum stock, looks like it will work. I plan on taking on this project after the first of the year, my work schedule looks like it will change and I'll be on a 4 day work week with Tue,Wed,Thu off. My plan was to take the transmission to Motorwerks in National City,Ca. for an overhaul, and if upon disassembly,if it looks like the clutch is in need of replacement, take it to Southland Clutch just a few blocks from the trans shop, and let them reline the clutch and true up the surfaces and check the spring to see if it's still useable, also take the flywheel in, and then the whole assembly can be balanced as a unit. Plan on making a daytrip out of it, only about a 4 1/2 hour drive to Sandy Eggo, nice drive in January, I'll be able to have the top down on the car . Of course there's the obligatory stop on the way home at the Julian pie company in Julian, Ca. for one of their famous apple pies.


BillC Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:04 am    Post subject:

Bob -

If you head over, let me know and I will buy you lunch! You can reach me on my private email -

bill.cochran@gmail.com


Semper Gumby Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:18 am    Post subject: Another Gotcha...

Careful removing the flywheel. It's another gotcha. I think you have to use the front engine cover and a partially removed alternator bolt to keep pressure on the crank to prevent forward movement of the crank and a lost (into the crank case) slip ring. Read verwy carwfully mister wrabbit!


BobRoller Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:26 am    Post subject:

BillC ,I'll keep that in mind for the trip! Semper Gumby, thanks for the tip, but I've already been in there replacing the rear main seal almost 7years ago and used a piece of allen wrench installed in the alternator bolt head and reinstalled the front cover, worked great.


wiemer Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 1:03 pm    Post subject:

Hi RobRoller,

Being a cheapskate myself I have opened up a tranny from the old BMW's (r 50)

There was no internet at the time, some 25 years ago. So I was not afraid to do so, put in some fresh bearings and off I went mith my revised tranny.
I was aware to put the spacers on the original spot.

And a friend of mine who had several plain bearing BMW's did the same when gearshifting got awkward, without any problems.

Last but not least: I just put a new clutch disk in, without changing the spring, spring-plate and backplate. Those grooves in the last 2 items help to enhance the contact surface , and make the clutch actually stronger

But all works well now, drove 130 kms/u without clutch problems.

wiemer.

[Justin B.]

BobRoller Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 1:31 pm    Post subject:

Hi Wiemer, I considered doing the transmission myself, but I learned that the 5 speed gearboxes do require some speciality tools to do the job, and those tools cost more than half of the cost of having a shop that specializes in overhauling these gearboxes to do the overhaul. The bike has developed a vibration over the last few years, and I had the common problem of getting water into the gearbox from a degraded speedometer cable boot for about 4 years before I figured out what the problem was. I also seem to be getting a little more metal fuzz on the drain plug every time I change the gear oil. From what I've been told from people that do heavy maintenance on airheads, that after 80,000 miles it is not uncommon to have significant problems arise with these gearboxes. This is a pre-emptive strike to possibly avoid being stranded on a backroad out here in the desert southwest , where most cellphones don't work. So I think the best route is to have the overhaul done by someone well versed in the process. The clutch is an on condition type priority, measure the thickness, and general condition of the other parts, and go from there. I only put about 3-4,000 miles a year on the bike now that I have two bikes to ride, so if it looks like I can get more life out of it, I'll go that route.


stork Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 5:07 am    Post subject:

Good idea about the pre-emptive strike with your gearbox, Bob.

I have discovered that if you wait you risk damaging the very expensive helical gears (input and 5) and the intermediate cluster which is what usually gets damaged in a blow up - they are about $US630 to buy new (in Aust).

And if you blow up a pre-81 with the 15 degree helical gears you have to buy the input gear and 5th as well, cos they don't make them anymore. About $US300 I think.

Plus bearings, plus strip and reassemble.

This is why all the shops, Duane and seemingly everybody else says don't ride them if they're at all suspect.

Plus you obviously don't want a gearbox locking up at speed. Broken bones hurt.


wiemer Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:08 pm    Post subject:

Hi Ian & RobR,



What looks like a question about technique, is also influenced by the countries we live in.

- When my bike breaks up, I don't have to use my cellphone (I have none actually) but I put the bike on the sidestand, and walk 100 meters, and ask the inhabitants of the house over there if I can use the phone.
I have been in the Desert one week ago, with my son.
Entry for 2 persons 35 euro. Then you get also the Rainforest and Ocean.
- Parts are fairly easy. The cops did run (ruin) the bikes here in Holland and Germany.
- Here we have fierce speed restrictions and traffic jams. When gearbox seizes chances are I go at a pace 40 kms/hour.

In short: reliability is less of an issue for me.
But my bikes left me stranded very seldom.

wiemer/Holland.


BobRoller Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 4:00 pm    Post subject:

Wiemer, I guess it is a matter of where you live! On some of these backroads in Arizona, you can ride for 2 hours at 65 mph and not see a building, let alone any traffic,and you really need to plan your trip, to make sure you have the range to get to a gas station, because they can be few and far between at times. You can also factor in the illegal alien smuggling and drug smuggling coming out of Mexico, to add a little excitement to your ride in southern Arizona!


airhead Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 5:37 pm    Post subject:

Except for the illegal aliens/drugs smuggling, exactly the same over here in Oz. Add to that a pretty low Beemer parts availability and a vast array of poisonous lifeforms, we have it pretty tuff!!!
Bill.....................


justinbowser Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 10:23 pm    Post subject:

Bob, it's a smart, and much cheaper, thing to get a rebuild before something actually breaks so your "premptive atrike" makes perfect "dollars and cents"! Wink. That's what I did on my '95's box when the whine started getting noticeably louder and there was a clunk when pushing it up in the garage. I got out of it with just bearings, shims, and seals, for a tad over $300. And that was with a new shift pawl spring and neutral switch to boot! Now, if I would have let it go long enough for something to break...