what to buy?

[Patrick_Krivacka]

I was looking around on ebay in the r65 section and it got me wondering. Do any of you buy parts, even if you don't need them at the time, if the price is right, and you think you might need them in the future. like say, if there was a gear box, or a starter motor or.....a guess more generally, are there parts that you have on hand that you don't need YET? If so, what are they?

[Bob_Roller]

I've got a front wheel, got it on eBay for $15 plus $25 for shipping .

[Patrick_Krivacka]

did you have a reason to think you might need it, or was it a matter of a price that you couldn't refuse? $40 does seem reasonable for a front wheel.

[Bob_Roller]

I hit a 'pot hole', that was filled with water, after a rainy spell, put a dent in the rim, no problems so far, but I got it just in case .

[nhmaf]

It's always good to have a few spare bits, especially things that are harder to find/don't show up often, or especially if they may be used on multiple bikes (like a transmission).   I've got a set of carbs, a transmission that still needs its input shaft replaced but is otherwise good, a final drive, starter, a rear wheel, and assorted cables and some electrical bits that I've replaced but which were still operational.   It can get out of hand, though.  I am hoping to get another early 80s airhead of larger displacement, and many of these parts (and others) can fit multiple models (except the LS-specific wheel, etc.)  Having some spare electrical bits that may be used but are still working, such as an ICU, voltage regulator, or bean can can save you on a long trip or help save a fellow "airhead" who may otherwise be stranded for a while.

[Patrick_Krivacka]

yeah, I think the electrical bits would be good to have around. I've seen some starters on ebay for under $100. New ones go for what?, Nearly $300? How stout are the starters on the r65?

[Bob_Roller]

They are a sturdy starter, but with the age of them, I would take mine apart and do a thorough cleaning and lubrication on it .

I did this on my'81, about 5 years ago .

There was no lubricant left anywhere inside the starter .

On a side note, a 'dry' starter can draw too much electrical energy while operating, bringing the battery voltage down to where it can effect the ignition system operation .

[nhmaf]

As for starters, just be aware that there are 8-tooth and 9-tooth starters depending on the vintage of the bike (I can't remember the year of the change over, but it was possibly 1976) .   You don't want to try to mix the two/replace one for the other as the "nose" of the starter with the gear and bendix coupling is different.   The original starter motor mfgr (BOSCH) was the OEM starter for many years, and are rebuildable.  But, they are the heaviest and draw the most current and don't provide any more torque than the VALEO brand starters, which are lighter and I think went into production somewhere around 1985 (have to check).   The Valeo motors though have a potential weakness in that the field magnets are held in position with an industrial adhesive, which has been known to sometimes fail as the motors age, resulting in a magnet falling out of position and jamming the motor.   There are some recent/late model Nippondenso starters one can find on certain websites that are, as far as anyone knows, the ultimate - more torque, less current draw and super-reliable - but they also cost alot more.   I bought a lightly used Valeo starter from a guy who had replaced it with one of these Nippondenso units for his 88 R100GS as he planned to ride from Connecticut down to Argentina and back.

Bob's advice is good to note - we often forget about them, but those starters should get cleaned, checked and lubed at least every 5-10 years or so..

[montmil]

Recently scored a pair of nearly new R65 cylinder heads with valves and springs for just $62.00. Stored away right now but plan to have Bruce Davidson at Boxers by Bruce do the valves, guides and seats... just in case.

Extra bean can I overhauled with a new Hall sensor; I carry it on longer rides. Have squirreled away extra bearings, gaskets, fenders, LS mufflers, relays, handlebar switches, brake hose... blah, blah, blah.

It's all good. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Monte

[trolle]

I am looking for a rear wheel and at the German E-Bay they come up once in a while at a reasonable price ~$100

Why? because I was experimenting with a "wrong" set of brake shoes, that made a groove in the wheel.

greetings from a cloudless but really cold north, 46F~8C at midday

[Semper Gumby]

Trolle - I may have your wheel as I was thinking about putting on an LS wheel.

I wonder how much shipping is to Denmark.  Mine is a March of 1980 Round rear end...

i-man - sorry to hyjack your thread -- I would buy a Clutch Friction Plate.  I did this for $35 off ebay and then three years later...mine finally died.

[Patrick_Krivacka]

no hi-jack man! i dig the free form nature of these types of discussions. lot's of good suggestions. keep them coming.

[suecanada]

I managed to burn up all the extra electrical parts i bought from Matt Parkhouse in Gillette but insurance covered it all even though it did not relate to the bike in question. Now I carry an ICU and changed to Euromotoelectrics 400 watt system. Hope for the best. I always carry spare cables and would make use of any good deals for spare parts.

[Darwin_R65]

I do it for both bikes and the Valiant.

With older vehicles where parts are getting hard or are very $$$$$, I tend to grab certain parts when i can.

Today I'm paying for a flywheel for my Sunbeam S7.
I've got one already and probably 12 months off assembling the engine but the studs on mine are pretty bad with rust, $30 + $10 postage, I couldn't pass that up for one i don't have to sandblast and recondition.

I'll weekly do a search for BMW, Sunbeam or Valiant parts just in case.


John

[trolle]

I just missed out on a rear wheel in good condition, it went for $8 on the German Ebay  [smiley=angry.gif]

greetings from a grey, cold (48F~8C) and now wet north