Valves Set @ (I0.006) (E0.010)

[tvrla]

Interesting data, Barry! Thanks for that.

[Air4Life]

Barry,

I haven't had enough wrench time with her yet.  I'm slowly developing a feel for what makes, THIS bike, THIS bike.  The only reason I am telling you this is that I don't want to give the impression that I am operating with a great deal of certainty when discussing these changes with you, just yet.      

I ran it a couple of hundred miles immediately after first buying it in the summer.  I then went and did the fluid changes and my first valve check.  I had found the right side exhaust was slightly gapped.  I then followed through with the original book settings.  I then ran it for several thousand miles on those settings with not much in the way of complaints.  I did not mess with anything in terms of mixtures, or idle stops either.  It would, after warm up, idle a bit under 1000 rpm from time to time which has since be corrected.  

In terms of miles, I only recently made these (6&10) setting changes which resulted in it running slightly better at idle (smoother). I'm beginning with this as a baseline now.  My idle and mixture were both readjusted too.  

My riding has been reduced to about once a week, and that being only short trips 30 mi (48km) or so.  Since it looks like I'm hanging on to it longer, I have to decide whether I want to pull my left cylinder and redo the exhaust pushrod tube seal now, or get another season out of it.  Its only weeping, not leaking.  They all appear to be supple and intact.  

Interestingly enough, its been doing this weeping since mile 26K (6k ago) when I first bought it in July/August 2011.  It is making much more sense to me now why it was so thoroughly washed the day I went to check it out, so thorough that the valve cover gaskets were bubbling after running it for a while.   The excuse was that it was left outside in the rain inadvertently.  

Yes, I did run through part of Snowbum's site.  And yes I understand the basics of valve overlap from long ago; its my level of hands on experience that is limited. And yes, I think I could spend a lifetime at his place.  Phew!

I do look forward to looking deeper into the bike, it has just enough complexity for my theoretically formed mechanic mind to take on.  

I will reveal any new findings here in a month or two.

Ange

[Bob_Roller]

Have you checked the torque on the cylinder/head hold down nuts ?

Not something you want to do a lot, but maybe checking it, due to the bike being new to you .

After checking the torque, it's a good idea to check the valve clearances again, especially if any of the nuts were under torqued .

[Air4Life]

Bob,

No, I feel bad about this one, as I had read those recommendations long ago.  My torq. wrench is far from me and I'll likely just purchase another one, nearby. I will be doing this very shortly though.

Ange

[Air4Life]

Partial update:

I just returned from a 175 mile ride with it.  It runs too good, I can't be this lucky...  I have to tweak the idle speed though, its a bit higher than you airheads recommend.  It's showing close to 1200.

Non R65: I had to go to Long Island, NY. where the ride is more stressful for me than it is for the bike, due to all those zippy little cars one encounters.  All but a few sections of 70 mph - typically the speeds are 55 and below.

I stopped by 20century cycles in Oyster Bay (The Piano Mans Garage).    Lights were on but sign said closed.  Saturdays only is what I later found out.    

[tvrla]

That's excellent!

The time to set the idle is when it's hot. Idling at 1200 tells me it was adjusted last time before it was totally warmed up.

[steve hawkins]

My pushrod seals have leaked for 10 years - ever since I changed them!

The bike gets washed as well.

Rev. Light

[Air4Life]

Beating this horse update:

When I went to re-torque the heads at 33,214 Miles I first checked my lash and found the intakes to be spot on and the exhaust closed by about .003 on both.  As was predicted the rockers to be slightly under-torqued and the remaining two right on.  I of course had to re-gap the valves and decided to go with the 0.006 and 0.010 again.  It runs good and without the full shield to bounce the sound back, it is not a problem for my ears.

The exhaust closure doesn't seem tremendous to me...  It could very well be technique since they both were the same.  The good Lord willing, and some luck I'll see what if any trends it presents.

[Bob_Roller]

What torque value are you tightening the nuts on the head to ?

[Air4Life]

I used 25.  Gosh, I hope I interpreted S. Bums tome properly

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm

[Bob_Roller]

25 ft/lb is the recommended torque value now, it originally was 29 ft/lbs .

I guess that there were problems with the studs pulling out of the engine case .

My thought is that it is people that don't know how to properly use a torque wrench, or a torque wrench that is out of calibration .

[Air4Life]

Not knowing of any first hand pulled cylinder situations  and based only on my own experiences, I tend to think in those cases, its likely caused by Grizzly hands or cheating.  

I wish I had bought the basic beam deflection type, but this one (micrometer type clickable) came with the case (see picture) and since it will likely be bouncing over the countryside in the back of my trailer, I thought it a prudent choice.  It fits in there pretty snug.  I just have to remember to release the tension on it when done using it.