Kind of a new 82 R65 Owner w/ some probs

[tripolii31]

Hi all,

I am kind of new '82 R65 owner.  I actually bought the bike 3 years ago.  At the time it was having charging problems but for a variety of reasons I couldn't get the time to fix it.  At that time I also "over charged the battery" and returned to the smell of electronics cooking.  I rode the bike once (after the overcharging) and it sputtered and would barely go over 50 mph.

Now 3 years later and I am ready to work on the bike.  I replaced the battery and the bike will start; however, it still sputters and backfires like it did 3 years ago.  Additionally the rear brakes need adjusted.  They are squishy but dont appear to be losing any fluid.  Front breaks are solid.

Where do I start with the electrical.  Nothing I have read would cause the sputtering and speed limitations that the bike is exhibiting.  I have several manauals and I am going through them.  Any help from this forum would be greatly appreciated as I am trying to minimize the cost of replacing all of the electrical components.  Tips on the breaks would be appreciated as well.  I replaced many times on cars but never touched bike breaks.  Thanks

Attached is a pic of the bike for any interested.

J

[Bob_Roller]

Welcome, nice looking LS. What is the history of the bike before you took ownership ? Any maintenance history on the bike? I would first go through the fuel system from the fuel tank to the carbs. Drain the fuel tank, and remove the petcock, and clean it up ( metal screen will most likely have debris on it).  Next remove the carburetors, disassemble one at a time and clean them up , and replace all the rubber components that have degraded. Replace fuel lines if they are cracking. Next would be checking the ignition system,check plugs for condition and gap, check the ignition leads for general condition and proper resistance ( about 5,000 ohms), inspect ignition coil for condition (cracks) and do a resistance check of primary and secondary coils ( primary coil about 1.5 ohms, and secondary coil around 13-15,000 ohms). Remove the ignition control unit from under the tank and clean the mating surface between the control unit and it's heat sink, then apply di-electric grease to this mating surface and re-install. That should get you closer to a proper running engine. Unless your rear brake is not factory stock, it should just require adjusting the nut at the end of the actuating rod at the final drive. This is a mechanical brake , not hydraulic.

[tripolii31]

Thanks for the feedback.  I will walk through as you have suggested.  I am the fourth owner of the bike.  I know the second owner.  He is ME (mmechanicla engineer) whose hobbies are motor cycles and cars as is the person he sold it to (which is the person I purchased it from).  The worst maintenance cycle has probably been the last 3 years with me which I am intending to correct.  Again thanks!!!

[nhmaf]

Looks like it was certainly taken care of over its past history - it probably just needs a basic
check up like the other members suggest, starting with the fuel system (the most likely culprit),
and general cleanup of plugs, etc.  

I'm jealous, the wheels on that bike have either been repainted, or else they've somehow
miraculously avoided the usual "LS flaking wheel paint syndrome", which my LS has pretty bad !


Welcome aboard, we'll help you get the bike back to good health, and you'll realize just how
special these little airheads can be !

[roland]

hi,

i'm very interested to do the checking of the resistances of coil, ignition
lead, etc..... but the problem is i don't have any idea how to perform it.
what sort of ohm meter should i buy to do this testing? is it possible
for me to do it? or i have to finish eletrical eng'g to be able to understand
it.....

thanks,

roland

[nhmaf]

A fairly basic multimeter will do the job, if you have a radio shack or similar electronics hobby store you can
pick one up for around $20 or so, and some hardware/dry goods stores may carry them, or auto parts stores.
If you aren't used to electronics, it might be easier if you get one with a digital (numeric) readout, instead of
a dial with a needle pointer.   As long as it can measure ohms in several ranges, and volts, which even the
most basic ones can do, you should have what you need for the task.

[Chris_in_BC]

 I rode the bike once (after the overcharging) and it sputtered and would barely go over 50 mph.
J

Does it idle reasonably well, but miss and fart trying to go over 50mph?
As Bob commented, my guess is you have a hole in one or both of the carb diaphragms. These are  wear items that should get replaced every 10 years or so (some folk recommend every 4-5 years)
Quite easy to get a carb service kit  with all the O-rings and new diaphragms.. Have a go at the carbs before ripping all the electrics apart.
I like Moto_Bins in the UK,  but service kits are readily available elsewhere too.

[roland]

thanks nhmaf.....

now i'm reading snobum's article about multimeters before
acquiring one.....

cheers......

[tripolii31]

It is also idleling very poorly.  I have to keep it reved fairly high in order to keep it running.