Rear Wheel Removal

[Mjolinar]

I was working on my bike last week and installing some new foot controls (Raask). I needed to remove the rear wheel to have better access to the rear brake rod, however when I tried, I could not get the tire past the brake pads. My rear tire is a 4.00-18 Bridgestone. Try as I might it would not come out. I removed the shocks to get more clearance under the rear fender, knocked the brake pads off (difficult to get them back on with the tire in the way) to no avail.

The only way I could see was to raise the bike a couple of feet in the air and maybe I'd be able to sneak it out the bottom or completely disassemble the swing arm/final drive.

Anyway, I managed to complete my job but am worried about when I need to change the rear tire. Is there something I'm missing or a trick to removing the rear tire/wheel?

Thanks

[Barry]

There are a few different methods and tricks are definitely needed. It's certainly not as easy and as straight forward the Riders handbook makes out even with a standard 4.00 x 18" tire.

My method is to remove the rear mudguard. it's only a couple of bolts and the electrics unplug. I have to do it this anyway because I have a huge BMW rear mudflap fitted and there is no way it will go past that. Whichever way you go about it deflating the tire is probably necessary. I liked one tip I read recently which was to put a thin sheet of low friction material like plastic sheet of some sort between the tire and the brakes to help slide the wheel out. I haven't tried it yet but it makes very good sense.

Other methods are remove the front wheel and with the stand strapped to the exhaust crossover pipe tip the bike forward onto the forks.  

Another method is lie the bike on it's side.

I don't like the sound of either of those methods.

[nhmaf]

I am aware of folks having issues with removing some 120/90 sized tires on the back wheel through the swingarm/fender area, but I haven't seen or heard of such a problem with realy 4.00-18 tires.  The trick with the wider 120/90 tires is to let most of the air out of the tube first.   With my BT45 110/90 tires I have no problems on my 82 R65LS - I can pull and replace the rear wheel fully inflated with just the bike on the centerstand and tipped forward as long as the ground is level, and the rear wheel rim widths should be the same between your snowflake and my LS rear wheel.  (Though the FRONT wheel rim widths are not the same between the 2 bikes).

Can you post a picture of your final drive/shock/fender area ?  This seems quite curious if your tire is truly a 4.00x18 size, as that was the original factory fitment.

Oh, and if you have that fancy accessory BMW mudguard extension on the bottom lip of the bike's standard fender (extension has the BMW roundel on it) that WILL cause you more contortions to try to get the wheel in / out - that's the primary reason I don't have one.

[montmil]

I run a Bridgestone 110/90 Spitfire S11 on the rear of my '81 R65. I pull the valve stem and this makes tire removal fairly painless. The bike initially had a 120/90. No more, thank you, as it was a pain to remove and just barely rubbed on the swingarm.

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

Adjust the rear brake shoes, retract them with the adjustment nut on the rod that goes through the arm on the rear drive .

[tvrla]

Pulling the front wheel and strapping the center stand to the exhaust isn't so bad. I've had to do it that way a couple of times on the road. One way to shortcut is find a curb and hang the rear wheel over, thus gaining the needed distance.

As for slipping past the drive splines and shoes, I've also never had a problem with the 110, though sometimes I have to 'walk' it past. A piece of slippery thin plastic is an excellent idea!!! I'll bet a piece of oil bottle would be just perfect (what I use for a rim protector installing tires)!

[Mjolinar]

Thanks all,

My rear fender does have a fairly long mud extension, but it is plastic and I was able to bend it around enough (I think). Big problem was the tire not fitting past the brake/drive assembly. I guess deflating the tire might give it the extra needed room so I'll keep that in mind. Haven't had a flat tire yet and the tread is still good so hopefully won't have to deal with this anytime soon.

I am going to try and fabricate a new mount for the new controls though. The mount that comes with the Raask setup is really good but the placement puts the controls too high for me. I got these to get my big feets out from under the cylinder. Accomplished that but am now in a more uncomfortable position.

I have another project to tackle soon; I'm installing an Acewell speedo/tack to replace my speedo/tack/dash lights and a Speigler M-Lock to replace my ignition switch. I'll be sure to take pics and post how it goes. Will have a complete dash unit with keys available soon (all working) so if you are interested let me know. Yeah, I know it is sacriligeous to alter the bike from stock but my bike must be practical for me if I'm going to keep it.

I read another post earlier comparing the airheads to the newer bikes. I do have my eyes on a newer BMW because I like the power, performance and other amenities on the newer bikes. However, I've never kept a newer bike more than a couple of years with the exception of a V-Strom I had for 4 years. I do miss that bike. I truly love older, classic or vintage bikes and cars. They just have so much more character. I just can't leave them stock though. Gotta customize them to suit me.

See the last picture with my modified fuel line. Saw the quick disconnect on a cafe bike site but they wanted $25. I got it from www.mcmaster.com for $10. easy to disconnect and pull the tank now. I like the blue fuel line too.

Again, thanks for the info on the rear tire. I hope it works when the time comes.

[kenbev]

If you have a Mate near by lower side stand and get him to lay bike over as far as he can still control it and wheel will fall out. Failing no Mate I just put a jack under the diff and go up till wheel slips out. Letting the air out makes it so mach easier. Regards. Aussie Ken.