first let me say i am all mixed up.
i went back and reread through the book and this thread. i have confussed the idle jet and the mixture adjust screw. i think i need to open the bowls up and then back the idle jet back the half turn. that should make things better.
i am done trying today. going to spend the night with the family instead of the bike, i have tomorrow!!
Yikes. The Idle jet I think is in the bottom corner of the bowl (The one the brass tube sticks down into.) Make sure its tiny hole is open by squirting some carb cleaner through it (point the open bowl away from your face). There is nothing to turn/adjust inside the bowl (other than the float height) - just make sure every thing is snug tight.
Doesn't run - are u getting gas in the bowl? Got spark? Got air?
Once you get the thing running. Set up the carbs.
This procedure assumes you have FIRST:
A. Torqued the heads.
B. Set the valve clearence.
C. Cleaned/replaced the plugs and checked the gap (yes check the gap on new plugs).
D. Set the timing.
E. The Choke Cables are properly set.
1. Set the idle stops so they are not touching the thottle arm on the engine side of each carb. i.e. Back the screw up.
2. Set the freeplay on each throttle cable - adjust the throttle fercule (?) down so you can pick up the cable 1mm above the fercule (before the cable catches and the throttle starts to open). Do both cables the same.
3. Connect your manometer, twin max, etc.
4. Start the engine and open the throttle to 2000-2500 rpms (its not going to idle very well probable 600 rpms) and watch which one pulls more. Adjust the fercules up or down to "balance the opening throttle." I usually go down so I will still have some freeplay in the throttle. Freeplay is important. You want the idle stops to set the idle not the throttle on the handle bar.
5. Let the engine idle.
6. Turn one throttle stop screw up until the engine just starts to accelerate. Stop. Do the same to the other side. And now balance and set the idle speed on the manometer. I usually do one flat on each stop screw until I have idle balance and the idle speed I want. Book says anywhere from 800-1100 rpms. Set where you like it best, for the reasons you like it best, in this range, and don't tell anyone.
7. At this time I replace each spark plug for my Colourtune plug and set the Idle mixture (The bigger screw in front of the bowl underneath the carb - The small one you removed to connect the manometer right?).
8. After I have set the idle mixture in both cylinders, I go back and make sure the idle balance/speed and the throttle open balance have not changed (4,5 and part of 6). When I set the mixture by ear, I had the best luck following the procedure that was under the seat pasted on the rear mudguard decal from BMW....
9. Then I go ride to check my work looking for anything abbeynormal. [smiley=steinigung.gif] You put the tiny screws back in after you disconnected the manometer right?
BTW - The carbs will stay set best with new cables. Old cables stretch unpredictably and your carbs will go out of sync much quicker. NEW cables make a world of difference.
Really important - If you don't have a fan to keep your engine cool, do step 4 through the end with a twenty minute break between each step to let the engine cool. (Beer brake [smiley=beer.gif] )
This procedure sort of aproximates the Bing Manual procedure. It is the easiest method that I have found. The Bing manual is the bible of carberettors. Thank Almighty God for the Bing manual when you get the chance.
If you end up hating this too much, you might consider a BSA Thunderbolt. It has 650cc, 2 cylinders and only ONE carb!!!!
I may have missed something _ I'm sure if I did some one will let us know what it is. Fact checkers are actually a good thing.
