timing

[manxr65]

just fitted a boyer to replace the points , got the strode and got the timing mark at around 3500 rpm, but the mark for idle is not there and my idle is around 950 rpm , if i adjust it so the mark is seen at idle it will change the other . whats the best thing to do . it just seems a bit hard of starting

79 r65 , mark 3 ignition just fitted

[Mike V]

manx,
My understanding is the priority setting should be set at full advance. Is there a toggle or setting (dip switch) for advance curve on your equipment?

Not familiar with the Boyer so maybe other replies will be more useful.

[manxr65]

i have just been reading  that if you do the timing with the lights on it makes a difference and can make the bike run a bit poor. not sure about that but i might give it a go also full advanced can be 2200 rpm

.

[Semper Gumby]

Don't know about the Boyer.  Does the Snowbum say anything about this?

Now if you had put an Omega on....

Some Boyer info is buried in this article:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/Ignition.htm

[manxr65]

got the bike running better after i found the choke lever hitting the engine case which made it hard of starting, also noticed that when i was doing timing the marks came from the  top of engine instead of the bottom as other websites have said. is this ok

[Barry]

when i was doing timing the marks came from thetop of engine instead of the bottom as other websites have said. is this OK  

If you rev the engine from idle to approx 3500 rpm while using your strobe light the max advance mark should rise from the bottom of the timing hole
  

[Semper Gumby]

Hi Manxr65,

The timing marks on our heavy flywheel R65s (1979 and 1980 through August) are a bit odd and are not documented well in any of the manuals.

When you rotate the engine (counter clockwise when looking from the front) the first mark that comes up will be the "Z" mark.  This is  the full advance or the high speed mark at 32 degrees BTDC.  The next thing you will see is an 1/8" hole drilled to small depth.  This is the idle mark and is about 6 degrees BTDC.  Then will be the faint "0" mark for TDC.  I put some white out on the LH side of the teeth so I can see when the Idle "slow" and Full "fast" advance marks appear in the window next to the notch in the case.  Otherwise they are too hard to see.

When it comes time to re-assemble your clutch, be sure to ask here first what the torque setting for the six nuts that hold the clutch together (hint: 4-6 ft-lbs and some blue locktite).

Good luck.

[manxr65]

yes it very hard to see the marks while holding the gun and revving , painted marks but i have fitted boyer and replaced beancan and to get mark in window at aroung 3000rpm the can is turned all the way around and wont go any further as the slots could do with being and bit longer .
the can is turned all the way counter clockwise if it was in your hand .
i started in the middle
should i take a small bit out of the slots to get more movement as the mark is 3/4 of the way up the window

[Barry]

should i take a small bit out of the slots to get more movement as the mark is 3/4 of the way up the window  

3/4 of the way up would normally be a couple of degrees over advanced. There will be Factory notch mark in the side of the window not necessarily dead centre but usually close.  You should be aiming to line up your timing mark with this notch.