Solo Seat

[caci]

I've made some progress on my solo conversion for my '84 LS.

Sorry that I didn't take photos of the whole process, but it's kinda like sausage and law - you really don't want see them being made.

I first determined where the backrest would be, based on my AV (@$$ volume).

Then I cut out an over-sized piece of birch cabinet-grade plywood.  I cut the contour of the seat pan into the bottom so that is would have decent support.  

I used 6 #8 x 2" wood screws to attach it to the seat pan.  
Screws into plywood edge grain leave a lot to be desired, so pre-drill if you don't want it to come unwound.

I then used stiff cardboard (not corrugated) to "project" the top edge of the backrest, based on the contours of the rear cowl.

Fortunately, the flange of the seat pan follows this contour, based on the shape of the original seat.

I played around with this until I got a shape that I thought would look good.

After reaching the final shape of the backrest, I then contoured the top edge to flow toward the rear - the top is more steeply angle than the sides.

I went with aluminum because I want to use the new cowl for add'l storage.

I borrowed a Rivet Squeezer from a buddy so that I could use flush style rivets, rather than pop-rivets.  This will allow for a sleeker appearance where the new cowl meets the old one.

The flush rivets were used to attach the .028 aluminum sheet to the seat pan.  For the backrest, I had to get a little sloppy.

I hand formed the aluminum by first attaching it with a row of rivets along the horizontal edge of the pan.  I then used STEEL screws to attach it to the top edge of the backrest.

I drilled through the alum. into the wood to prevent splitting.  You can see that the screws are askew in several places - this was to gain better purchase that just the edge grain would offer.

After the top row of screws, I hand bent the cowling down the sides, atlernately riveting and screwing to prevent any "bulges".

[caci]

You can see that I ran out of rivets on the bottom edge, close to the back rest - I'm getting more tomorrow.

After I got it all(most) battened down, I replaced the #8 steel screws with #10 SOLID BRASS screws, along with epoxy.

Lots of screw head protruding, so I ground them down semi-flush.

Also ground the aluminum flush with the bottom edge of the seat pan and face of the back rest.

The red around the screws is spot/glazing compound to seal the edges of the screws.

All in all, not real pretty, but it's going to be covered with leather - may or may not have thin foam in between.

Now that I've gone from a simple leather re-cover of the original seat, I'm going to have to use a pro.  Perry is going to take this to his seat guy.  From what I understand, he will build up the foam and get my approval on shape. firmness, etc. before sewing and installing the cover.

I was really wanting to try out a gel insert, but after checking out a bike at Perry's with "comfort foam", I'm going with that stuff.

BTW, in that 3rd photo, that's not a dead animal to go with my yard theme - that's my Jack Russell, Annie, rolling in the "grass".

[caci]

Finally got the seat finished.  I had to go out of town the week of 3/15 and that set back the process a little.

Bobby Ellis of Custom Auto Design, in Ft. Worth handled the padding and upholstery.

He used the original foam and did a preliminary shape for the seat.  
My intention was to use a "Comfort Gel" insert for the seat project (these are available from numerous sources - Web, Ebay, etc.)

After Perry and Bobby showed me the closed-cell "Comfort Foam" that they were using on several of the Cafe projects, I decided that  was going to be good enough.

While in Florida, I attended a Gun Show where a vendor for Impact Gel. Co. was demo-ing their seat pads, insoles, etc.  

I could buy a good-sized pad (about the size of a old-style "tractor seat") for only $35.00.  The gel is about 3/4" with 3/8" closed-cell foam attached.

That's about 1/2 of what a kit cost.

When I got back Bobby let me take the "roughed-in" seat home to try on the bike.

I had him make a few changes, including the inlay of the Gel Pad.

He inset the Pad and then covered the entire surface with 1/2" Closed-Cell Foam, effectively creating a super smooth surface.

Sorry that I don't have any pictures of the construction past my "blacksmithing".

I can't tell you what the cost of Bobby's work is, because I supplied the leather and Perry & I bartered on the labor.

If you are in North Texas, Bobby would be a good choice for a project like this, as he will let you "approve" any work he does, prior to upholstery.  He can also supply any kind of leather you like, including exotics.  

If you simply want to improve the comfort of an existing saddle, he can replace the old foam with Comfort Foam (can even re-use the existing cover, if condition allows).

Bobby Ellis can be reached at 817-729-1078.

[caci]

Here are the pics of the finished seat. Red stitching, flat seams.

I also applied the LS stickers and "pulled in" the rear turn signals by shortening the stalks by about half.

[Bengt_Phorqs]

Good looking job Chris.  I may check him out to see if he can recover the seat on my Yamaha TY250.  That's about all I have left on that project.  Bring that bad boy over to LePeep in Hurst this Saturday for breakfast.  Quite a few airhead guys in the mix.