Electrical problems!

[19Patrick83]

Hi! I'm 26years old and I'am from Italy. I bought my '79 R65 in november 2008. Actually I couldn't use on city road because there's not sufficient charge for battery. Usually the voltage is about 14,2V at 4000'rpm. But on city road I go start and stop about 3000rpm, and there's not voltage to supply light. In only one week I start Monday at 12,5 V saturday at 11V.... the cycle doesn't start!
I've seen that's current absorber at swich off, about 5V.
I change diod plate and regulator system. What could I do? Where's that current absorbe?? Thank you!

[Bob_Roller]

The Bosch charging system on our bikes, doesn't do a real good job of charging in slow speed, or stop and go traffic .

Could you explain the term current absorber, it's not a phrase I'm familiar with .

But from what you have said so far, I don't think there is a problem with your charging system, if you are getting 14.2 volts at 4000 rpm.

When I lived in Chicago, if I took my R65 to work, 5.5 miles, 14 stoplights, the battery would be worn down to where it wouldn't start the bike, in 5 or 6 work days.

You may need to put a battery tender, or charger on the bike, with your particular usage .

[montmil]

Get thee a battery tender... Or else start riding like V. Rossi.  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[not-so-fast-ed]

Bob, I think he means "something that is stealing his current" either inadvertently (like a draw after the bike is turned off) or normally (like a set of heated grips, high amp running lights, etc.)

Always a good idea to start with a really good battery.  It fixed my marginal electrics.  And yes, I swear by my Battery Tender Junior.  There must be a comparable device across the pond.

my     [smiley=2cents.gif]

Ed

[Justin B.]

I dunno, he's mentioning 5v for some reason so he is looking at something in particular.  But I agree, 14.2 v indicates good general health and is more than my '81 R100 puts out (13.9 v) even with new rotor, brushes, AND solid-state voltage regulator!

[Bengt_Phorqs]

Welcome to the forum Patrick!  You've come to the right place to solve all of your R65 issues and maybe some other things too.  Nothing Like a good battery tender to keep it topped off.  The Mad Agostino behavior won't keep it charged up as well as the battery tender.  How old is your battery?  Is it gel type or wet?

[nhmaf]

It does sound as if he has some sort of current draw, but I think that we'll need more information to figure out.

I will say that my R65 is certainly more electrically "leaky" than my Kawasaki.  I haven't  determined where it is going yet, but the R65 battery will slowly lose charge over time much more quickly than my KAwasaki battery will, and they are both 22 AH batteries and the Kawasaki battery is 1 year older.    But, we are likely talking about milliamperes of current.  If I leave the R65 and the Kawasaki off their battery tenders for a month, the Kawi will crank and start right up, and its LCD clock will still be spot on.  The R65 will struggle and if it doesn't start in the first 5-10 seconds of cranking, it won't have enough juice to get it done and have to go on the tender.

[Justin B.]

Have you inserted an ammeter to see if you in fact do have current draw with key off?

[19Patrick83]

Thank you to all! When engine and key is off I found 5V off current discharge. Why? I changed 3battery from november. Last battery had about 450A of istant current. What could I do?
I think there's an electrical cable that touch the engine or a light cable who discharge...
Saturday I went to moutain about 200km. When I cut off engine I measure battery charge and found 12.6V!
I driven for 2hour at 4000rpm and charged battery.
Probably the relè on-off on starting magneto system?

[MrRiden]

Yes it could be the relay or even a failing coil. Your best approach may be to hook up your meter and disconnect items one at a time until you see the 5V draw go away. It will take time but maybe save some cost.
rich
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In really bad Italian:
Sì, potrebbe essere il relè o addirittura una mancanza di bobina. Il tuo approccio migliore potrebbe essere quello di collegare il metro e scollegare gli oggetti uno alla volta fino a visualizzare il 5V trarre andarsene. Ci vorrà tempo, ma forse salvare alcuni costi.

[Bob_Roller]

There is a 'PARK' position on the ignition switch, and the key will come out in that position.

The 'Parking' light is just below the headlight, and the tail light will stay on in this position.

Just a thought .

The markings on the cover plate over the switch, at least on mine is unreadable .

[not-so-fast-ed]

Good call, Bob.

Might be the problem for a new owner.  It confused me cause my small bulb in the headlight assembly was blown & it was too bright to see the tail light burning.  Of course I don't see red too well.    

Ed

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

With the bike turned off, disconnect one battery lead and run it through an amp meter (there is a setting for it on your multi-meter).

It will possibly indicate a current draw, which could be your problem, if you are that lucky.

If there is a current draw, start disconnecting things, one at a time, until the amp meter shows zero. That will be the circuit that is giving you trouble.


If there is no current draw with the ignition off, disconnect the headlight and tail light and try again, with the ignition on.

Good luck, and if your multi-meter is analog, watch your polarity when hooking it up to the battery!