Timing?

[bjamesw]

I read Snowbum's page but it gets a little confusing having to refer to such wide range of models.

Mine is a 1983 R65.

My Clymer's is pretty unhelpful, esp since the 'S' mark on my flywheel is not at all like the one pictured.  Same story with my 'factory' manual that the previous owner supplied me with.  The 'S' mark in the manuals has three lines struck just to the right of it.    My 'S' mark is about a centimeter below the OT mark with a single line beneath the S.  There is a single line above the OT as well.    Shall I assume that the line beneath the 'S' is the ideal setting?     Does it even matter since Snowbum, and others,  suggest that the advance mark 'Z' is more important to set.   There follows discussion about setting it at 3000rpm or above "three quarters of the way up in the window".      MAN I hate language like that.  AAAAAAARRRRRGGGGGGHHH.     There is a line under the 'Z'.     Ok....   so warm up the bike..   set up my timing light...  set the tach above 3000 and adjust the 'can' so that the line under the 'Z' is at or just above the middle of the 'window'?      Do I have that right?

I've been all morning at this laptop trying to hunt down good instructions on timing.   There are a gadzillion posts on the internet dealing with balancing carbs, and all say "set the timing correctly FIRST.
But I can't find a good idiot proof instruction on this.

Sorry to shout.  This is very frustrating.  


And I just went through the hacking to make that diy manometer.  Now that it's set up and plugged into the carbs (awaiting setting of the timing)  I'm reading that I might be just as well off setting things by ear.   And most instructions seem talk about idle and cable adjustments without mention of mixture settings.    Both of my manuals are woefully short on specifics (perhaps because, again, they have to cover too many years/models?)

Is there a link someone could sent me to that describes timing/synchronizing the R65 from A to Z?

[Justin B.]

I believe you nailed it, the pictures in the Haynes book show using the line as your reference.  Over the years there were dots, letters, lines, etc, so as long as you can find something you are doing good!  I usually crank it around and put a dab of white paint on it to make it easier to see.  If you recheck at idle you should see the "s" mark in the window and it's always good to check at idle and then watch to see if the "Z" comes up after 3k or so.  If it doesn't then it's likely your centrifugal advance mechanism in the bottom of the "bean-can" is sticky/rusty/nasty, etc...

Idle mixture is part of the idle adjustment and I think if you search this forum (specifying "ALL" for date) you'll find the procedure.

[bjamesw]

I'm sold!!

I followed the plans for the diy manometer and after my post (I'll post a pic if anyone is interested), I just went out to the garage and cranked'er up.   I had previously set the idle by RPM and the mixture by ear.  When I hooked up the manometer the vacuum was waaaay off.    I adjusted the idle to level the manometer and then rotated up to about 3k/4k and brought the manometer level again.   Back to idle..   balance the manometer..  back to 3.5k ... balance again.  

Your 'mileage may vary', but after balancing the carbs this way I'm a convert.  I've had this bike for twenty years and this is the finest it has ever run.   Sewing machine smooth through the range.  Interesting though..  I still cannot read the 'z' mark on the flywheel with my strobe. I don't know if it's my light or perhaps a problem somewhere up the line in the ignition, but I won't worry about it for now.  I'm really enjoying this tuning for now.  

The 'z' is illegible but I marked it with yellow grease pencil and can generally see that it is in the window.   Should it be a crisp 'Z' ?

Anyway, that's that for now.   I tuned the mixture by ear...   back and forth between roughness, set in between, one side at a time.

Next on the list of perfection is to fix the ANNOYING 'clunk' in the front end.   That's a separate thread.

It's fantastic to have an R65 forum!!!!    I'll post some pics of mods/tips/tricks I've crossed along the way of monkeying with this bike.  
I love this bike truly.   35K and I see no reason at all to ever part with it.  No doubt many of you feel the very same about your own.  

[Justin B.]

The way I adjust mixture is to go each way until RPM decreases and then set it on the upper side of middle.  If your timing mark jitters around to where you can't read the "X" then maybe your timing chain is getting worn.

[Semper Gumby]

My 1980 has a Faint "0" for TDC, a drilled hole for Idle timing (6'BTDC) and the "Z" with a dot (drilled hole) for full advance.  There was also a knotch in the LH side of the window.  I always lines the idle dot up with the knotch and then twisted the throttle looking for the "Z".

As for Idle mixture I use the Colortune plug to set the idle mixture.  Nothing could be simpler.  I haven't made my DIY manometer yet but it is on the list!!!!