What's Expected of Me On Tech Day

[Mike V]

Air,

Excerpts from Snowbum's web page...

"For the later wheels where access is had withOUT heating, BMW nicely changed the design, and access to the wheel bearings is generally just a simple matter of prying out the grease seal and its lipped metal spacer, which is often just called a Top Hat Spacer.    The lip, or hat if you will, on that spacer is INside the seal if assembled correctly."  

"The wheel seals are not overly critical to being installed squarely and exactly to proper depth.  They DO last longer and work better if installed squarely.  You do NOT need special tools for removing and replacing the seals."  

Bob has recently included a very nice Wheel Seal Chart. Have a look...

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/section4.htm

I still measure the old seals, identifying them "L" or "R", "Front" & "Rear" and mention to the parts guy their dimensions, number of wiper rings, whether they have metal or plastic jackets...just to make sure.  Unless you have a lot of confidence in who you are ordering from.  The Real OEM Microfiche pages have been known to have errors in this area.

[size=12]BUT-[/size]
If replacing the seals is absolutely no option...

Remember the "brim" of the top hat should be inboard of the seal, if you're very careful with a blunt wide blade screwdriver (or similar tool), and you're slow and deliberate - you may be able to save and reuse the seals.

Maybe

-Mike V.

[Air4Life]

That's great.  Thanks a bunch Mike.    
 

"36-31-1-235-832

All cast wheels on the R65 and SOME other cast wheel models.   
This seal is directly interchangeable with the -836 seal, and can be used
to replace the -836.  The -832 seal original came with a double sealing
lip, which is BETTER than the original -836.  The -832 is a bit thicker
than the -836, but works fine, and it IS PREFERRED"

From the new chart you directed me to. Thanks Mr. Snowbum.