I woke up early today...

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

...and the R65 frame kept calling to me...





I've decided to have it and the swing-arm powder coated.
I will be removing a drive shaft (cush-drive) for the first time.

Since it is possible my swing-arm was tweaked in the crash, I've decided to use the one that came with the frame.

I had my grinder out removing the last traces of the front coil mount, that failed in probably 95% of these early Type-248's.

I removed the steering head bearing races a while back, before I thought I would have the frame painted.  Should I worry about these points being exposed?  I've left the races in the swing-arm.

[Bob_Roller]

Depends on the shop that is going to do the powder caoting .

If plugs are placed over the openings where you don't want the coating everything will be fine .

Parts like outer bearing races are a close tolerance fit, the coating will most likely make it difficult to impossible to install the race afterwards .

I've never tried to remove powder coating before, but with the durability of powder coat, if would make me believe it will be a job to get it off of a surface on the inside of the steering head .

[nhmaf]

Some of the shops near me want you to come in and mark/tape where they should install plugs, etc. to keep powdercoat from getting into orifices that it should not be.   I'd be sure that they do this - they also want to avoid situations where residual grease from removed bearings, or grease that is still in bearings which may still be in the part, does NOT leak out during the high temp curing process and cause the powdercoat powder to not stick/fuse.   If I get my wheels powder coated, I'll be pulling the bearings out of them first - I may try my hand at DIY spray painting them instead to avoid the hassle.

[Crossrodes]

I left the bearing races in mine in both the steering head and the swing arm locations.  I removed the races and installed new ones after the parts were powder-coated.  It worked fine.  I also marked each location with a threaded screw hole usnig masking tape to mark them...the shop then installed plugs of some kind before they did the powder-coating.  It worked out fine.

[Semper Gumby]

Makes sense to me Crossrodes!  +1  Rob - Take pictures of the Frame Decal under the RH jug.  I don't know why -- just because.  I've heard you can get a new one from a dealer.  I would talk to them first to make sure.

Good luck.  I hope th eframe is straight.  Can you send the parts to someone to make sure before you invest all this money time effort?  (Who?)  You only get one chance to get it right the first time.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Bill,  I talked to Oak, and he said BMW frame jigs are rare, and someone that knows how to check it is even rarer...

No doubt there is a place in California that can do it.

I just have to dive in and see what god's plan is for me, cause if this doesn't work out, it is eBay time.

I also thought I would compare the distance between the frame rails back by the foot peg mounts before I start, just for the heck of it!  I would LOVE to find a big difference!

[Semper Gumby]

I wonder if JonP has that kind of experience?  He seems to be the master of frames and welding...  That was him doing the custom right?

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I think that was Jon.  I have already sent him a PM asking to borrow his driveshaft tool.  He offered it a couple of years ago, and I'm too lazy to make one...

[Crossrodes]

The drive shaft tool isn't too difficult or expensive to make....4 pieces of threaded rod, nuts and washers and two square pieces of 1/4" steel approx 6x6".

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Yeah, but you have to drill a large hole in the center of that 1/4" steel, and cut the two pieces.

That is a lot of sweat with just a hack saw...

[Crossrodes]

True.  But if you get a hole saw it's a lot easier.  That's what I did.