Potential R65 Purchase

[rbass]

I'm brand new to the Forum and brand new to BMW bikes (though I've owned many BMW cars - from old 2002's to an '88 M3 that I currently track).  I currently ride a HD Nightster (don't laugh).  It's on the heavy side (540 lbs) and has a relatively high center of gravity, but it does handle well.  A couple of my friends run newer BMW bikes - R1150s - and swear by them.  I know the way BMW cars handle, so I've started thinking about a BMW bike.  I looked at an '86 ('85?) R65 today - for all of $1800.  Cosmetically, very well taken care of.  Has 79K on the odometer.  The only things I saw wrong with it were:
- rear tire will need to be replaced in another 1000 miles or so.
- has the center stand and previous owner installed a side stand, which is spring loaded to always go up.  Kind of useless, I think.  I'll probably take it off.  
- fork bearing will need to be replaced.  It was very notchy, almost impossible to steer, from a standstill, but was fine once moving.  It was so bad that I had trouble controlling the bike from a start.  It wouldn't steer.
- throttle was weird - unlike the HD, it doesn't spring back to a closed  idle position very quickly.  It just slowly turns back - takes a second or two.
- suspension appears to be extremely soft, at least compared to the HD. Travel is probably a couple of inches when at a standstill.

On the positive side, I was very surprised with the handling.  Once moving, the bike needed almost no effort to turn.  It just went where I wanted it to go - with almost no countersteering.  Kind of spooky....

So - a couple of questions for the more experienced:
Is the throttle action I've described normal for this bike?
Are the suspensions generally this softly sprung?
Is it very difficult to replace the fork bearing?  

BTW - the bike comes with a new uninstalled fork bearing, rear hard bags, magnetic tank bag, and assorted spare parts - clutch cable, etc.  

I've really psyched about the potential purchase -any words of wisdom? Thanks.

[nhmaf]

I think that I know the one that you are talking about - I noticed one on CL.   I Tlooks from the photos to be decent - though bikes always look better in photos than in real life.   The 86 monolever R65 bikes share the same frame parts, transmission, drive shaft, tank, seats, etc. as the R80 and R100 monos, so getting parts is easier.   The monolever bikes don't handle quite as quickly in turns as the 81-84 dual shock R65 bikes, but they are still very nice handling, IMHO (I used to own an 88 R100RT).

The throttle issue could well be one or more of the following:
1) Cables are old and grungy inside and/or frayed, may need new cables.
2) Carb throttle springs are weak/rusted/need replacing
3) the throttle tube insde can get full of crud and/or worn out - with 79K on the odometer, this could be the case.  It isn't too hard to disassemble the  throttle controls (be careful and take digital pics as you go) and clean re-lube the tube can gear and short chain that it engages with.  These are also made of soft alloy, and can wear out, so a new tube/gear/chain may be necessary.   It wouldn't be out of normal for it to be worn, but may just need cleaning and lube.

Steering head bearings aren't too hard to deal with - you will need a bearing puller tool (can buy from Ed Korn's tools or on ebay) to remove the lower bearing and the upper race

Suspension could just be worn out or they may have put in lighter springs for shorter/lighter rider.  The front forks aren't too bad to rebuild with new springs, and there are several brands of rear shocks that will work on this bike.

It could make for a nice project without too much difficulty if you're mechanically handy.

See if the owner has any maintenance records on the bike.   It may be due for a clutch in the near future if it hasn't already been replaced.  The heads on the 1986 and later bikes are usually good for ~100K before valve work is needed.  They are fairly low maintenance, but not "No" maintenance airheads.

[rbass]

Yep - that's the bike on CL.  It wasn't bad cosmetically.  But, the handling was scary enough (fork/steering bearing and soft suspension) that I didn't really take it out for a good, hard ride.  Just around town - 3rd and 4th gear only.  

Forgot to mention - also has a front brake fluid leak somewhere.  Realized the reservoir was bone dry and went to a parts store a few blocks away for a pint of fluid.  It held pressure for the few miles I took it out.  I didn't see where it was seeping from, but there's obviously a problem.  Can't be too difficult - brake line or caliper is bad.  

Thanks for the info.  

[Lucky_Lou]

Hi and welcome to the forum.
A Hardly convert no bad thing!!!!
IMHO i would be changing the cables anyway including the clutch and keep the old ones as spares.
The headstock bearings may just need re greasing an easy job but the front wheel bearings on older models need a bit more care...not sure about 85 models but you may want to leave that for a pro as recommended by Haynes.
Treat yourself to a Haynes or Clyma manual plenty on Ebay.
Check the piston on the front master cylinder thats a common place for a leak.
The side stand is a bit of a waste of time as you can get oil in the cylinders if you leave it too long i never use mine !!
Ive no experience on the fork springs but im sure nhmaf is right.
as its your first BM be warned about gyroscopic side thrust if you drop a gear too far down the rev range it can throw you sideways
Lou
Ps page 4 in totally off topic/rants ect i have a post called "Why we hate Harleys" if nothing else it should make you smile [smiley=beerchug.gif]

[montmil]

  m3apx wrote: The only things I saw wrong with it were:

- fork bearing will need to be replaced.  It was very notchy, almost impossible to steer, from a standstill, but was fine once moving.  It was so bad that I had trouble controlling the bike from a start.  It wouldn't steer.
- throttle was weird... it doesn't spring back to a closed  idle position very quickly.  It just slowly turns back - takes a second or two.
- suspension appears to be extremely soft...

So - a couple of questions for the more experienced:
Is the throttle action I've described normal for this bike?
Are the suspensions generally this softly sprung?
Is it very difficult to replace the fork bearing?  

BTW - the bike comes with a new uninstalled fork bearing...  


Check the Technical section here at bmwr65.org and read the Steering Head Bearing thread. I just completed the replacement of the old, brinneled, (read: notchy) bearings on my 1983 R65. You will need a pair head stock roller bearings; top and bottom. If the bike handles as you describe, the bearings are toast. No way they will improve with additional grease.

Check the right-hand control mount for a throttle lock screw. If it's still there, it will be a large diameter, knurled screw that is used to hold rpms at a specific level during timing ops. Also, the throttle twist grip may be filthy and simply need cleaning. Cables are not spec'd to be lubricated on the BMW. If draggy, check for smooth routing. Remember, too, that the CV carbs do not function as a conventional slide valve carb or an injector does. We're old school.

The OEM rear monoshock might be ready for a replacement. Also, the front fork springs and valve dampeing design is not at a MotoGP level.

Welcome to the herd. Tweak your new/old cow and enjoy a traditional-style German motorcycle.

Monte

[Justin B.]

If you have access to a mig welder you can weld a bead around the face of the outer race and it will literally fall out!  I didn't believe this when I read it so I tried it on my swingarm bearings and it's no joke!

An '85 would be a monoshock bike so I think the price is pretty reasonable as there don't seem to be as many of those around, in the US anyway...

[Bob_Roller]

Looks like you got yourself a great deal on the bike !

A bike like that out here in the western US, would easily be almost twice that price .

The steering bearings, look to be your only real big job to start out with .

Welcome to the site, and don't be shy about asking questions, we pretty much live for this !!!

[nhmaf]

The rectangular style m/c for the front brake aren't difficult to rebuild, and there are rebuild kits available.  If worst comes to worst, one can get a whole new m/c assembly for under $200 - probably more like $150.