Headlight ring on R65LS

[wilcom]

My headlight ring rotated and popped off as I was riding. I was close to home so I wheeled it into the garage with the reflector assembly hanging.

I had noticed the other day that the lens was crooked and should have investigated( I'm a die hard "If it ain't broke don't fix it" guy)

My problem comes in when I try to tighten the screw  holding the ring tight on the headling housing. I can't get a screw driver on it, the LS fairing is in the way, totally blocked.

Do I loosen up the headlight and destroy my headlight adjustment? Loosening the  headlight will be no picnic either with the fairing in the way, but could be done. This would make changing a headlight bulb on the road a major issue.

What am I missing , who has installed a new headlight bulb in a LS?

Thanks

[Bob_Roller]

I've replaced the headlight lamp on my roadworthy LS's and I had to remove the upper and lower fairings .
Like you said a real pain .

[wilcom]

Like you said a real pain .

Thanks Bob!
I would rather you told me about the inspection plate that I had missed   I guess I got it to do then...……. arrrrgh

[Kelvin]

With the black cowling and rubber ring removed the headlight can be tilted forward and the screw accessed from under the fairing. This requires that the bolts holding the light in position are loose enough to allow movement, but tight enough that it holds position once adjusted. I find that because of the rubber mounting the headlight will stay in position once adjusted. Next time I'm out in twilight and can see the pattern on the road while riding I do the minor adjustment to get the position right. No need to remove the lower fairing. And, yes, I have replaced a bulb in the middle of a tour.

There's a cutout in the lower fairing that makes access to the screw easier: this is the inspection plate you were hoping for. 

[wilcom]

There's a cutout in the lower fairing that makes access to the screw easier: this is the inspection plate you were hoping for.

jn `

Kelvin

I was not able to get a wrench on the bolts holding the headlight shell. They were tight enough where there was no movement.

I did however figure out a way without "completely" taking off the lower fairing. I popped off the two inner side trim pieces that clip over the forks and held with one screw. That allowed me to take out the upper screws holding the fairing. With those two screws out,  the fairing would rotate on the turn signals and tilt forward enough to allow access to the screw holding the ring.

While I'm in there I'm going to change the lamp in the tach ( screws soaking in oil for the night). I also want to adjust my head lamp; All the procedures want you to be 25 feet away from a wall or garage door. I only have 10 feet(15 at the most) of level ground. Any one have specs using a shorter distance?

[georgesgiralt]

Well, simple math. The height is proportional to the distance. (the triangle formed by the bulb filament (a point) and the wall and the 25 feet for the length.
As an alternative, you can drive to a place under a bridge where there is 25' clearance and put the bike there. Or go to a shop having this fancy device to set the lights proper on cars... Same light but at another height...

[Luca]

While I'm in there I'm going to change the lamp in the tach ( screws soaking in oil for the night). I also want to adjust my head lamp; All the procedures want you to be 25 feet away from a wall or garage door. I only have 10 feet(15 at the most) of level ground. Any one have specs using a shorter distance?

If you haven't already taken it apart, then just use your 10 feet of space and mark where the light hits as it is (use your high beam if the low beam is burned out).  You don't need the hassle of hitting a spec from scratch if you can simply duplicate the old conditions.

They probably want 25 feet because the measurements will have a finer resolution, but from my experience it's not strictly necessary