bowden throttle splitter disassembly question

[kls1]

hi once again,
So i finally managed to go out and buy a cable lubrication kit, and was really confused on how to dismantle the throttle distributor body to allow for lubrication of both the upper and two lower cables (so I have the mono cable-to-dual cable setup)

Basically, I want to separate the upper cable from the distributor, and the distributor from the two lower cables. I unscrewed the end cap of the distributor, looked in, and see the two lower cables kinda disappear into the body. As for the upper cable, I undid the lock nut, but there doesn't seem to be easy access to where I would take that apart.

I checked clymer's on this -- but they just make it sound easy -- just unscrew. I am obviously missing something here. Any help? thanks guys!

[Ed Miller]

Those splitters are fiddly, but everything I've read about BMW cables says don't lube them, as they have some kind of plastic liner that can get gummed up easily.  (nylon?  teflon?)  You lube the ends of the cables at the carbs and at the handlebar with grease, and make sure they move freely, don't use your kit to run lube down the cables.  If they become stiff acting it's just time to replace them.  

Having said that, I bet if you disconnect the upper end from the throttle handle you'll have clearance to unscrew the upper cable from the splitter.  I swear I did this a few months ago (I was replacing my cables) and can't remember how.  That's irritating.

Good luck,

[Bob_Roller]

After you have the cable disconnected from the handlebar, I always remove the cables from the carbs, so you can get it out in the 'open' and work on it !

The trick to disassembling the splitter body is to screw the adjuster on the single cable from the handlebar all the way in, then unscrew the 'cap' to the splitter, you should have enough slack in the cable to get it out of it's 'detent' in the splitter block and then move the cable to the side, and then it should come right out.

You're going to have to hold the splitter block and the cable and push it in a little to get the cable dis-engaged.

Personally, your first time, I would remove the whole assembly from the bike, until you get the idea of how it works, it's simple but yet confounding at the same time !!!!

Hope this may have helped you out more than it confused you !!!

[nhmaf]

Yup, that description is very appropriate - brings to mind the tricks to building a ship in a bottle....

[Justin B.]

I'm sure glad Bob found a way to put it into words, I sure couldn't!  But, as already stated the stock factory cables require no lubrication so if you have sticky/draggy cables it's best to "bite-the-bullet" and get new ones.  Not that much of a bullet to bite, though, as they're not really that expensive.

[tagordon]

I had major routing issues with my cables. PO installed the Bikini Fairing & Clubman Bars. PO's decisions regarding routing had them binding in a few places.
Once I confirmed they were OK I rerouted them. Much better now. It did take me more than once to get a satifactory placement. I had issues with steering & throttle return & even idle speed. The things were bumping & pinching & pulling, OH MY!

[suecanada]

Gee nhmaf....does this all sound familiar? I really do hate to get at that splitter. Have done it several times and will never remember exactly what I do/did. I have a new inner piston for one splitter, and I have not yet had the gumption to put it in. The old piston detent which holds one of the cable nipples was worn but we put a bunch of melted heat shrink around the worn nipple until it was big enough to hold! So far it all has held. Just another thing for me to carry around but I know I should get that work done before trouble really happens in the worst spot.

[Bob_Roller]

To easily do this job, you need three hands (minimum), not many of us are equipped as such !

But after a few times, it's only a minute or two to dis-assemble the splitter.

As soon as you figure it out, write it down and take a few digital pictures for future reference, and keep it with your bike maintenance records, or insert in your shop manual.

Or start a loose leaf notebook for reference on hard maintenance tasks.

Seeing as a majority of us are eligible for AARP (American Association of Retired People !), and our memories are not as good as they used to be !

[Justin B.]

I think I should be offended, but I can't remember exactly why...

[Ed Miller]

That's all too much trouble, Bob.  It's easier to just figure things out each time.  I have a new set of choke cables to install when I have the tank off next time, so I'll figure it out again!

[Justin B.]

Bob, I put in an order at Max for the manual part number you posted, the system accepted it, but I got a refund a couple days later stating it was no longer available.  The e-mail referred me to Benchmark Works...

[Joan]

My cable splitters were both corroded into a single mass on both the throttle and choke cables, so I removed all 6 (SIX!) cables and fittings then drove the car to the beemer shop. Two weeks of waiting and all the bits were in, including four new carb return springs, and new splittter boots... about 120 clams, iirc.

However... I've been riding her around on just the new throttle cables as I've been busy with sick kitty care and other things. Maybe this weekend the new choke cables will go on. Yeah, TMSAISTI!

It's not hard fitting the new splitter pieces together yourself. Just go slow, have a homebrew and don't force anything.