rear wheel removal 1st time

[Oconner]

Trying to remove rear wheel for new tire, and brake serv. Have the bike jacked up a bit, took off the right side nut and washer, removed the bolt from the clamp side on the left. Now from what I understand just pull the axel/spindle out and tire should come out with a little effort. My problem is that the axel only comes out about 5 inches until it is blocked by a lip that has a larger diameter? See photo. What next?

[Barry]

When you remove the axle that "top hat spacer" normally stays attached to the wheel bearing seal as the top hat part should be inside the seal.  The spacer should be free to slide on the reduced diameter part of the axle. Are you saying it has somehow seized in place. If so and it can't be freed you may have to cut it off and replace it with a new one.

BTW this is only the first part of the fun and games of rear wheel removal as the wheel will usually not just slide out. It depends how high you have it jacked up but  I have to let the air out of the tire and remove the rear mudguard and even then it's a tight squeeze past the brake shoes.

[Oconner]

ahhh I was thinking that was the problem. I will try to loosen it up and off. Do you think the part is readily available?

[Bob_Roller]

If you mangle the part getting it removed, it is available .

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0364-USA-09-1980-248-BMW-R65&diagId=36_0145

Item # 12 .

You may want to consider replacing the grease seal that this spacer pulled through .

Item #11 .

Also, there are additional parts that will fall out when the axle is removed, so you do need to go in there and retrieve them for reassembly .

[Barry]

Note that the bearing seal runs on the outer surface of that top hat spacer so even scratches on the surface may call for the part being replaced.

[Bob_Roller]

Once you get the axle removed, if the wheel still won't come off, you may have to adjust the nut on the brake arm at the wheel, to pull the brake shoes in to clear the brake drum .

[Billmc]

Interesting....Why are you removing the axel to change a tire?
When I changed the REAR tire and serviced the brake shoes I just unbolted the 4 lug nuts, raised the rear end about 10" , let a little air out and pulled toward me and she dropped down and out.
That is on an '87 Mono so yours may be different.

[Tony Smith]

Interesting....Why are you removing the axel to change a tire?
When I changed the REAR tire and serviced the brake shoes I just unbolted the 4 lug nuts, raised the rear end about 10" , let a little air out and pulled toward me and she dropped down and out.
That is on an '87 Mono so yours may be different.

It's so easy to hate the owners of monoshock bikes with their single sided swingarm - no need to provide more reasons to do so 

[Tony Smith]

Others seem to have the problems with getting the axle out well in hand so I'll talk about getting the blasted wheel out once the axle is out and the brakes are free.

There are three easy ways to get that bloody wheel out. If you have a modern tyre i.e. anything that is not a 4.00 * 18 "traditional" tyre - let the air out - it will save you doing it in less than ideal circumstances later.

Method 1

You have the bike on an elevated workstand - lucky you. Put the bike on the centre stand and pull it smartly backwards until the rear wheel is "out in space" and then remove downwards.

Method 2
If you have an off-sider (assistant) handy, then put the bike on the centre stand and carefully lay it on its side as far as you dare - assistant then removes rear wheel.

Method 3
If you are on your own and do not have an elevated work platform, this is your best option.

Put bike on centre stand, and then remove FRONT wheel.  Put the front axle back in the forks.

Use your luggage straps to secure the centrestand to the front axle - get those straps tight!
 
Push front end of motorcycle down unto bottom of forks touch the ground - it will stay there, particularly if your fuel tank s near full.

Remove rear wheel downwards.

Couple of pics to show the method.

[Oconner]

Got the wheel off. All went smoothly. Had to undo the left shock. New tire, brakes cleaned up, at least half life left on liners. All good. Thanks everyone.

PS Tony that is the shiniest ate brake caliper ever!

[Matt Chapter]

It's so easy to hate the owners of monoshock bikes with their single sided swingarm - no need to provide more reasons to do so 

Four lug nuts and away you go! I did have to wiggle a little bit to get around the mudflap and silencer, but the hardest part was torquing the lug nuts.

[Tony Smith]

PS Tony that is the shiniest ate brake caliper ever!

There is a story.
When I rebuilt them several years ago, I removed the old seals by burning them out with a blow lamp. This had predictable effects on the finish of the callipers.

I am on good terms with the local brake shop owner and I knew he had a colour wash treatment available for alloy parts - he had recoloured my R100RS callipers blue for me.

The only colour he had immediately available was good and I thought that would be cool. But no, SWIO didn't like gold and paid red them rattle can silver herself.

[georgesgiralt]

There is a fourth way to remove the rear wheel... Put the bike on the curb on it's center stand with the rear wheel hanging above the tarmac. Often, the clearance gained is enough to clear the rear mudguard.