Spline Lube

[Air4Life]

So I noticed its been getting trickier to drop it into 2nd gear where I never had this problem before.  With that, I decided to lube the spline.  Its all back together now, but the shifting from third to second is obnoxiously bad, worse than before.  

I had to leave it and will hopefully get to it tomorrow.  My first thought is that the clutch cable was in need of an adjustment, and after sliding the transmission back and all the other stresses the clutch cable has stretched just enough to throw it out of whack.  Is this a logical conclusion, are there any other things...?

[Bengt_Phorqs]

Could be something inside the tranny like bent shift dogs or needing to be reshimmed, but, from my experience it's difficult (not impossible) to get a decent spline lube without actually removing the tranny and doing a good clean and lube.

Do you still have the coat hanger shifting linkage on your bike?  Our fabulous moderator Justin, a professional machinist, also makes a cracker jack shift linkage that helps quite a bit.  Do a search; I'm sure there is a photo of it on this forum.

[Air4Life]

BentP...:  THe bike has shifted well for the past 11K miles.  

Could the mating of the transmission to the engine be slightly less than perfect?  Maybe my torque procedure on the uppers was not consistently followed of that on the lower hex bolts, or vice versa?

I guess it couldn't hurt to check the clutch adjustment first...

[Bob_Roller]

I would check the clutch cable for proper adjustment .

Also the clutch throwout bearing at the back of the transmission .

There needs to be gear oil on the bearing .

You can pull the pushrod and bearing out part way, and check to see if the bearing is in good shape and then lube it up and put it back together .

If you got grease on the splines, it probably was more than was on there before you started, so I really don't think the splines are your issue .

I agree with Bengt_Phorqs, that especially with a first time spline lube, I would remove the transmisson and clean everything up, apply new grease and you're good for at least 5 years .

[Air4Life]

Bob:  

I did have the hex bolt out to allow the clutch lever to move freely.  I may very well have disturbed something.

I will assume my number 3 bearing is the same and not  the upgraded version combined with the piston.  I hope that's it, if not, I'm not going to be riding for a couple of months.  Shucks, I wanted to make MO too.

[Bob_Roller]

Yes, that's the part .

Also, when you this, remove the clamp # 6 on the rubber boot that covers the bearing area and break the boot loose from the tranmission case .

If you don't, when you remove the pivot bolt for the clutch arm, the spring #4, will push on the boot and if it's on the old side, it can tear the boot .

[montmil]

A reminder regarding clutch cable adjustments:

Check your owners manual -either the one under your seat or the .pdf version available in the FAQs section- for a reminder that the adjustment procedure begins at the transmission end of the cable. There's a measurement that must fall within specs. Best way to do this job is with a coat hanger wire clipped to the spec length.

Remember, it's usually something Airhead simple. Good luck.

[Air4Life]

Some day I will come on here and stump you, but not this time.  

After first adjusting the clutch (201mm) and having that provide absolutely no difference, I then oiled the throw out bearing, to which I can happily say its now working better than ever.  

Thanks All, I just knew my donation here was a good investment.