Winter Maintenance

[Milo_357]

Hey gang,

Getting ready for the winter, and thinking about some maintenance I need to do, and thought I'd drop a note for advice on the following general work I need to do.  

Basically I'm asking where you have seen the best description on how to do the following:
 
Points and timing adjustment/check
 
Change transmission, rear drive, and driveshaft oils.

I appreciate it!

Dell Moore
Pittman Center

[Barry]

Even though I only lay the bike up for a few weeks in the winter I have decided that it is the optimum time to do the annual service in fact I've just done it recently.

There must be some previous posts on points and timing although now I take a look at your signature you have an 82 which wouldn't have had points ignition.


Transmission oils are easy just drain them hot and:-

 fill the gearbox to the bottom of the filler hole -  800 cc's

 fill the final drive to the bottom thread in the filler hole - 250 cc's

 or bottom of level hole and 350cc if 81 - on bike with ribbed final drive case.

 Be sure the drive shaft is well drained and put in a measured  100 cc's. Ignore anything in print that says to add more. Some people may say only 75cc. The reason for not adding the recommended larger amount of I think 150 cc's is that it just tends to migrate to the final drive. If you want to test that theory measure what comes out of the drive shaft when you drain it.

It would be rare to get caught out but always make sure you can undo the filler plugs before draining the oil.

[tvrla]

It's a good idea to drain the gas tank, since the right side doesn't drain independently and tends to trap water. Also, renew the brake fluid - that's an easy job.

[Dizerens5]

Regarding drive shaft oil, on my 79 it certainly migrates, but not to the rear drive. It almost all goes to the gearbox (transmission) within a few 100 miles. How it does this without a drop ever leaking from that rubber gaiter I don't know! On my old R60/5, it migrated to the rear drive which was more of a problem as the overflow dripped on to the tyre. At the minute I just put a bit more into the drive shaft occasionally and drain out the surplus from the gearbox filler hole. It seems ok.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Regarding drive shaft oil, on my 79 it certainly migrates, but not to the rear drive. It almost all goes to the gearbox (transmission) within a few 100 miles. How it does this without a drop ever leaking from that rubber gaiter I don't know! On my old R60/5, it migrated to the rear drive which was more of a problem as the overflow dripped on to the tyre. At the minute I just put a bit more into the drive shaft occasionally and drain out the surplus from the gearbox filler hole. It seems ok.

Constellation, your output seal may be installed backwards.

The correct way to install this seal is "backwards", so many people rebuilding a gearbox for the first time sometimes make this mistake.  

[Dizerens5]

Thanks Rob. I never knew that!

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Thanks Rob. I never knew that!

For the "earlier" Boxers with oil in the swingarm, the seal must be installed with the spring visible, and the small cut-out remains open.

http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/gearbox.html  (Almost to the bottom)

[Milo_357]

I am NOT trying to start a flame war by asking this! I DO NOT CARE ABOUT BRAND!

What KIND of oil do I need to change transmission, rear drive, and driveshaft oils?  

It's not trasmission fluid, rear drive oil & driveshaft oil now, is it?  What are they called and where can I buy them?

THANKS GANG & MERRY CHRISTMAS!  

[Bob_Roller]

You need GL4/GL5 gear oil .

Sometimes referred to as hypoid gear oil .

Most department stores with auto departments and auto parts stores will stock it .

Brand and weight of oil, is your choice .

[Barry]

Although I've just changed all my transmission oils I did this after 6000 miles which for me was over 2 years. The oil came out looking like new and I had almost nothing in the way of fuzz on the magnets.

Annual changes of engine oil regardless of mileage are a no brainer especially before winter storage as you must get rid of contaminants and combustion acids.

Given no contamination with water (and I accept that might be a big IF for some) gear oil does not deteriorate in anything like the same way as engine oil so I don't see any particular risk of storage with used gear oil.

What do others think ?

[Bob_Roller]

I'm thinking the same thing about gear oil, look how long a manual transmission car will go between oil replacement in the transmission .

Probably on every clutch change !!!!

Not to knock or bikes, but they are pretty much early to mid 20th century technology in the transmission and final drives .

Don't get too obsessive with 'farm implements' !!!!!

Trying to figure out how to get a plate like this for my '81 R65 .


http://www.azdot.gov/mvd/vehicle/ImgLarge.asp?txtImage=FarmVehicleLrg.jpg

[tvrla]

I feel the same about gear oil. If it comes out clean, pour it back in. Maybe filter it first. No need to replace for winter storage.

[Milo_357]

You need GL4/GL5 gear oil .

Sometimes referred to as hypoid gear oil .

Most department stores with auto departments and auto parts stores will stock it .

Brand and weight of oil, is your choice .

Same oil for all three, trasmission fluid, rear drive oil & driveshaft oil?

[Bob_Roller]

Yes, all three use the same lubricant .