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Author Topic: Upper instrument housing crack  (Read 957 times)

Sparkdrummer

  • Guest
Upper instrument housing crack
« on: June 14, 2007, 07:12:50 AM »
The top portion of my instrument cluster has a 1/2" crack on the left side just above where the handlebar passes under it. The housing appears to be made of a stiff rubber. Has anyone else had this issue? Were they able to effect a solid repair? I'm thinking epoxy might get 'er done?

-Ralph...

thrang

  • Guest
Re: Upper instrument housing crack
« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2007, 08:47:37 AM »
Its a common issue on the R65 instrument housing and once the rip starts it tends to go all the way. I don't know if anyone else has been able to come up with a repair that dosen't look pretty horrid, but I've not.
cheers
Tony

tagordon

  • Guest
Re: Upper instrument housing crack
« Reply #2 on: June 16, 2007, 09:11:37 AM »
I am repairing my dash pad as unable to find relacement that is not damaged in the same manner.
As already stated this appears to be a common affliction for dash pad on R65.
I am utilizing a technique learned doing restorations & repairs of very old items. Specifically architectural millwork & furnishings. The process is also used by artists to prepare canvas for painting. Also in bygone days this process was used for pressing garments. So they were stiff as a board.
Process is called Sizing. Basically it fills pores with material to allow application of additional material without the additional material wicking & bleeding.
The material the dash pad is made of, whatever the composite, does not like adhesive.
So I sized it first. Here is the process:
I chose JB Weld Quick as it closely matches the color of the dash pad.
Apply a thin coating of adhesive to both faces & mate them together.
Using painters tape ( not masking tape - use the colored stuff that comes off clean ) I held the part together without distorting the form.
Allow adhesive to patially cure. JB Weld Quick States 4 minute. Not. More accurately 20 - 30 min. depending on temp. You tell by a light touch with a finger / toothpick whatever. If tacky wait longer till cured past tack stage.
Pull apart & repeat as before. I used four repetitions to produce a very strong bond.

Then if you chose you may go the ultimate in repair / restoration. Produce a template for the finish, to allow you to reproduce the pattern on the repair. This is done by using Bondo / Plaster of Paris or another product to make a copy of the textured finish. You lay down a film of plastic wrap on a portion of the finish, first having treated with thin coating water or WD ( some type of release agent. You decide. Depends on project ). I sometimes do not use a release agent for this step, again depends on item. Then apply plaster / bondo whatever with enough pressure to fill the texture of the finish.
Once the plaster etc cures you have a negative copy you can reverse using same process. Or you can use as is.
Next apply coating of adhesive or whatever final coat will be. Place the textured film on, use a release agent if necessary, then rub to transfer the pattern.
Hope you get the idea of how it works. It is invaluable technique to replicate / restore / repair intricately or unusually detailed items.
I have not road tested my repaired dash pad yet. As am only as far as finish sanding my bonded piece.
Still have some reconstruction filler work. Not sure if I will texture it as it will be under the RS fairing anyway.
Oh! Caution, the clips for the indicator lights on the dash pad are very fragile. Mine were already gone on one side & I broke one that remained. A little drop of JB on the collar is my choice with a dap of painters chaulk on the bulb socket to hold it back in. You can easily snap the JB to remove & chaulk stays flexable.
Hope this helps. For what its worth, I have used these techniques on various projects ranging from fancy moldings / gilded furnishings / window sashes / fabricating machine parts & tools.

Sorry no before pics. This where I am so far.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z318/tagordon/P1000088.jpg
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z318/tagordon/P1000086.jpg
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z318/tagordon/P1000085.jpg

HTH
Troy
« Last Edit: June 16, 2007, 10:08:00 AM by tagordon »

Sparkdrummer

  • Guest
Re: Upper instrument housing crack
« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2007, 06:15:50 PM »
Well, I pulled the cluster top off today. I'm wondering if I apply super glue to the crack - let it set up - and then apply a generous application of JB weld or epoxy to the unseen interior might get it done.

Also - one of the little clip doohickies that holds the bottom portion was missing so I'll have to find a substitute and both of the mounts that the doohickies go on were bent so I'll have to adjust them.

Sorry about the doohickies...

-Ralph...


tagordon

  • Guest
Re: Upper instrument housing crack
« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2007, 07:03:26 AM »
Recommend testing first. Some products do not play nice with each other. I have not used super glue for very many projects. Other than
as liquid bandage.
If your wanting to ensure that the JB gets all the way into the bottom of the damaged area. Try using a bit of paper to mix it up, then roll it into a cone. Like the ones cake decorators use. Squeeze it into the farthest point. You will probably find this unneccesary though. If you gob it in good, when you squeeze the part together it usually goes everywhere. Most times that is. YMMV.

Troy
« Last Edit: June 18, 2007, 07:59:06 AM by tagordon »