Smoke Gone & Back Again

[tagordon]

Thanks for the reply, nhmaf & Justin B. I had not replaced spark plugs yet. Replaced & smoke gone. ( Returned after riding & setting overnite )
 The PO must have removed & reinstalled old plugs & washers did not seat. I did check that the old plugs where tight. So tight does not mean sealed. ( Now that smoke is back not sure what is happening ) The old one showed rich burn condition. For how long I do not know.

I also picked up a carb kit. I am heading to mountains for a couple days camping. Toying with idea of taking carbs with me.
Will be in camper van & thought to liesurely puttz through rebuilds. While enjoying the time away from city. No agenda for these days. Just escape & enjoy.

Update on front brakes = disassemled MC & there was 2-3mm of dirt packed inside not allowing the piston to return. Dirt was under the C-clip & was so packed in I almost thougth it one of those brown washer/bushing parts. Poked at it & relized it was fluid & dirt compsite washer that needed removal. Now just need to bleed.

--Smoke back again. I video recorded & viewed this time. Coming from valve covers. Between intake & exhaust. Replacing gaskets & stting valves now.

Thanks again for the info nhmaf & Justin B.

Troy

PS: PO just called. Found Clymer manual & right side battery cover. Dropping them off in a few min.

[airhead]

I also picked up a carb kit. I am heading to mountains for a couple days camping. Toying with idea of taking carbs with me.
Will be in camper van & thought to liesurely puttz through rebuilds. While enjoying the time away from city. No agenda for these days. Just escape & enjoy.



"Just love the smell of carb clean in the morning!!....."
Maybe best not to do it IN the van, you won't be a happy camper!!!

Bill.................;-)

[Justin B.]

Depends what he is cleaning with!  

[tagordon]

New developement with the smoke problem. Removed the valve cover & the whole stud came out. It was covered with, what appears to be JB Weld. The gasket was not sealed @ the center of the cylinder & vealve cover. Water had leaked inside & was a small amount of rust.
Left side has a hex head bolt holding valve cover down. It appears to have been tapped for a larger bolt size. Left side also had no seal @ same location as right. Off to find a tap & bolt for right side this morming.
Perhaps stainless, unless advised otherwise. I am fortunate to have a company here that only product is fasteners. Bolt & Nut Supply Co. They have provided me with some very strange fasteners for a variety of machines. Some of the machines were old as 125+ years. Not to mention a German machine laced with Japanese bolts that had special head sizes to fit precise counter bores.

Will try to get this remedied before launching trip to mountains. Sure wish I was taking bike. Get bike safe & sound then have to plan adventure to road test. Right?

Still undecided about carb rebuild in the wild. You see I have 2 St. Bernards & a Cocker Spaniel to help. They sometimes drop things as they have no thumbs. Then theres me, with 10 thumbs.

Will keep posting updates unless advised otherwise.

Troy

[airhead]

St Bernards are better with engine and gearbox work, Cocker Spaniels are tuning wizards. Try a Chihuahua for carb work, they seem to be naturals for the fine fiddley bits.

Bill.........................;-)

[Justin B.]

Very common for this stud to get pulled.  Heli-coil the hole in the head and you should be good to go...  No need to remove head just make sure tap is started straight and use a sticky grease on it to capture the chips...

I suppose a bolt would be OK but you will definately wear threads out in the head unless a thread insert is installed, I would stick with a stud...

[nhmaf]

I agree with Justin - if the pulled stud you are talking about is the one which has the "acorn nut"
in the center of the valve cover, you should have it repaired with a HeliCoil and new stud installed.
Do your covers still have the (2) 10mm nuts on the front and back "ends" - they are what really do
most of the holding on/pressure for the valve cover against the gasket.    If they aren't there, I'd
expect that you'd already be finding some little oil leaks/puddles.

[tagordon]

Thanks for the reply, nhmaf, Justin B & Airhead.

Well guess if popular opinion of those more knowlegeable & experienced advise to use HeliCoil & stud.
Then I need to ask: anybody got a extra stud & acorn nut? I only have one set. Or is this a common part that I can easily purchase? The acorn nuts do look cooool. Defintely when compared to the unrefined appearence of the hex.

But the rest of the bike is pretty "hexy" anyway. Take that statement however you like.

I already have two new stainless hex bolts & a new tap. Believe I shall do an immediate repair using them. And see if leak goes away. I am thinking that the leaking cover may not be flat and what I need to do is check it.

Thanks again for the advise
Troy

PS: Brief account of moutain get away posted in Rides & Events section.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I have been running my bike without the center stud on either side for a couple of years now.

Dealers can get  them.  Do you know how to get the part number for your parts guy?
Some folks report special ordering bike parts from BMW auto dealers.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do
Use this link, and put in your serial number.