U-Joint screw removal

[montmil]

This concern ties directly into my "Driveshaft U-joint Boot" thread but I did not want this particular question to get lost in the noise.

Today has been quite productive. After I warmed up the garage to a comfortable/workable temperature, I was able to complete the rear brake cam shaft O-ring replacement -Snowbum suggests a dab of silicone grease on the O-rings-, the new brake shoes went on and the final drive splines were cleaned and got a taste of the Honda Moly-60.

The clutch spline lube chore turned out to be less stress than anticipated. The splines were clean looking and had no visible damage but they sure did need a thin coat of Moly lube. Done.

Last project is the installation of a new U-joint boot to replace the torn unit... leak, leak, drip. Wrap this job and the '81 is back on the road.

My question concerns the best way to loosen the four 12-point screws. I have the transmission in gear and the new brake shoes are holding exceptionally well when applied. However, my 10mm, 12-point box wrench is not budging the u-joint screws. The 10mm box-end wrench is so short as to be less than capable of exerting enough torque to loosen the screws. Maybe I need a 900 pound gorilla...

I am considering sawing off the open-end portion of the combination wrench, slipping a cheater pipe over the wrench's shank and pulling firmly.

So, you cats that have done this before... I'm seeking your advice, ideas, experience...

Thanks, Monte

[Bob_Roller]

A 'cheater' pipe, probably will be the way to go .

When those bolts finally let go, they're going to 'crack' loudly .

So be ready for it .

[montmil]

Thanks, Bob. I had read where you had been through this chore a few times...

I can easily replace the Craftsman 10mm combination wrench after modifying the one in my tool chest. I'm heading back to the shop and the cut-off wheel...

Monte

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Jeeze!  Just get a larger diameter cheater pipe!  Plumbing depts. have them, pretty cheap, too.

[montmil]

The U-joint screws came away easily with a lot more leverage provided by the cheater bar. Understand some folks are reusing the U-joint screws but I already have four new ones on the bench. No washers.

A post elsewhere from Bob Roller mentioned,

"Check your replacement boot that covers the u-joint, it should have the word OBEN molded into it, that goes on top."

My new boot did not have OBEN on it but did have the same part number molded on as the old boot, which did have OBEN molded in the boot. Simple to refit in position as the torn old boot. For those wondering, the deeper pleats in the boot install at the top and bottom of the swingarm/transmission junction. Makes sense as the swingarm travels in a vertical plane. If yours is moving side to side, well...

The time consuming chore was getting the flippin' lip of the new boot over the formed lip on the swingarm! Just not a lot of working room for encouraging the boot to pop over the lip. Best comparison would be like, oh, herding cats or pushing a rope uphill. After reinstalling the U-joint screws, the forward end of the boot should be, hopefully, easier as there is no lip on the gear box output flange.

Wrap this up and then I can install my new, to me, EPCO, Dunstall-pattern, stainless steel mufflers. Shiny! I'll look like all those snazzy Aussies' R65s.

Monte

[Justin B.]

I've found it easier to attach the boot to the swingarm and then coax it onto the tranny...

[montmil]

I've found it easier to attach the boot to the swingarm and then coax it onto the tranny...

Yep... that's what I did... and am doing.

[montmil]

Just returned from a brief R65 test flight around the neighborhood. It's all good [smiley=thumbup.gif]

The two new 10 x 2 mm O-rings on the brake cam shaft stopped the final drive leak. Gear oil was continually fouling the brakes, wheel rim, tire and garage floor. Nasty. Cleaned out the brake drum area and fitted new brake shoes. So this is what rear brakes are supposed to feel like!

The transmission spline lube was a simple chore after removing all the pieces parts blocking access. Honda's Moly 60 has the gear box snicking neatly up and down through the gears. Pretty dry in there but no damage. Much nicer now. BTW, a little bit of the moly grease goes a long way on those splines.

New U-joint screws replaced those removed during the U-joint boot replacement. The boot chore was the only PITA job undertaken. Get one side on and, pop, off it comes as you chase the other side. Resist the urge to use pointy objects to encourage the boot onto the fore and aft flanges. I already had a torn and leaky boot. Did not want another.

Greased and refit the swingarm bearings and pivot pins. It's a back n' forth dance aligning the swingarm with the frame. I used stacked feeler gauges to confirm equal arm-to-frame spacing. Torqued the pins to preload the bearings then loosened and re-torqued to specs. The pin's lock nuts get a hefty 75-100 pounds.

And finally got to install the EPCO stainless mufflers. A Dunstall-pattern they are. Not obnoxious or loud, just sounds like I'm on an R100. Cool.

Weather forecast for Sunday is 63 and sunny around my village. I'm going out for a longer ride.

Monte

PS: It seems I'm not done yet. Discovered the transmission's neutral switch is leaky just like the '83. It never ends. Ya gotta love 'em.

[suecanada]

Just one wee reminder...while you're looking at the rear drive and that brake cam which is not leaking now..be sure to check that the breather cap is raised up. It is "disguised" as the dome top on the filler. Just be sure it is raised above the nut so it can breath. I changed my brake actuating arm's O-rings too and thought I had solved the leaky problem. In the end it was the breather mushroom cap being smack dab in the closed down position. Thanks Eric and nhmaf!!