Starting the fun?

[Bing]

Hi all, tomorrow i have an RDO so will be taking the morning to get a start on the black beast.

I have the Haynes manual and a complete original toolkit along with my shed toolkit.

I will be checking the oil in all four places of course, and checking the spark plugs and clearing the float bowls before kicking over the engine to see if it starts.

I have a feeling the battery is toast after the lay up but I am charging it overnight to give it a chance.

Am I missing anything obvious?

Once I have gone through that lot I will be taking the driveline apart to find the source of the horrible grinding noise that put the bike off the road in the first place.  I'll be posting more photos as I go. I dare say I'll have a few more questions for the group before too long.  

[nhmaf]

Check the valve lash adjustments too before starting - if they are far out of adjustment you won't get her started even if your carbs and spark are OK.

IF the engine or gearbox oil is especially dirty or has the infamous "coffee with cream" (OK, perhaps "tea with milk" for you folks in the "tea belt") appearance indicating water has gotten in - DO NOT attempt to start the bike until you've gotten that all out and replaced it with fresh oil(s).   If it has been laid up for long with water inside her, it would be ideal to flush it out with kerosene or diesel first, but even if you don't do that, don't attempt to let her run with compromised oil anywhere.

[Bing]

Had good luck so far.

The oil in the engine, gearbox, shaft and final drive all look good.

The Battery has survived and the engine started up easily after flushing the old fuel from the float bowls.

Here are a few pics as it sits.

Seat, tank and back wheel removed.


The drive spline seems to be in good order on the bike and on the wheel.


The Odometer has a very low total and considering the log book has maintenance listed for 32,000 Kms I have to assume the bike has been clocked at least once.


The brake disk has rusted nicely in storage, should I do anything to bring this back in to use?


NHMAF Thanks for the advice. The gaps were a little loose but nothing to worry about. I will adjust every thing properly before I put it back on the road.

Now I just need to remove the drive shaft to inspect the cush drive. When I move the back wheel I get the Horrible Noise coming from the  swing arm. With luck I won't have to replace the gearbox.

[Bob_Roller]

It's not uncommon for the odometer to quit working, from what I can remember, the small plastic gears just need some attention .

[Justin B.]

You can sand the rotor or riding and using he brake will clean off the "swept" area and you can then follow up and clean wherever the pad doesn't touch.

[Darwin_R65]

I'd use some 600 wet/dry and wet sand

[Bing]

Thanks for the advice guys.

So far I have the final drive and swing arm off the bike. So far the BM has been easy to work on.

There is a little bit of play in the final drive, but not much. There is no movement in the drive shaft "shock absorber" to be felt by hand but this isn't a surprise.
The final drive oil was clear but there were grainy bits of metal in the oil from the shaft.

I will be pulling the gearbox and checking it for the "grinding" noises.

How hard is it for a novice to successfully rebuild one of these five speeds?  :-?

[montmil]

How hard is it for a novice to successfully rebuild one of these five speeds?

Challenging would be the word I'd use to describe the job. A number of BMW-specific tools are required along with some DIY-fabbed bits of tooling.

Not knowing your background or skill level, I wouldn't want to discourage you nor would I encourage you to dismantle a well-functioning transmission. Rebuilt units sell for around $500 USD.

Question: Is something wrong with your gearbox?

Monte

[Bing]

Answer : maybe

The bike was taken off the road with a nasty 'grinding gear' noise that even the mechanic at the Brisbane BM shop couldn't pinpoint.

The grinding noise was apparent any time the rear wheel moved. So I am guessing it was caused by something after the clutch. I am working my way forward to the clutch and so far haven't found it.

Once I have the box out on the bench I might have a better idea. At the least I can take the parts to the BM shop mechanic to get a professional opinion.

If it does wind up being a duff gearbox I am up for a challenge.  

[montmil]

The High Lord of R65dotOrgLand, MasterBlaster Justin, has done a box. PM the lad and get his input. He has been lurking about lately while on the mend. Perhaps he will respond after he's had his coffee?

Monte

[Semper Gumby]

I would put the whole brake rotor in a bead blaster.  Get a rebuild kit for the caliper and possibly the master cylinder as well.  Make sure you mic the thinkness of the rotor to be sure it is not under spec thickness.  Brakes are soooo important.  I have stainless braided lines on my ATEs.

Good luck.