First if you don't have an alternator rotor removal tool, you need to get one, or make one.
If you are not pulling the sprocket, you don't need to remove the bearing.
If you have the crossover tube at the front of the engine, the exhaust system needs to come off, the timing case won't clear the pipe.
I removed the pipes as one assembly, as I couldn't get the crossover pipe loose from the header pipes.
Upon reassembly, couldn't get the pipes into the heads correctly, and had to cut the forward crossover pipe.
I made some longitudinal cuts, and after working with a small regular screwdriver, finally got it loose, but it didn't look great when I got done, eventually replaced the pipe.
So you may want to try penetrating oil on all of the exhaust joints, to try and loosen them up before you get into the job.
Once you have the timing cover off, you may want to reattach the battery cable back on the battery, hit the start button, and note the direction of chain movement, for correct installation on the master link clip.
I marked both sprockets with a dab of paint on the sprockets, and the front of the engine case, so I would know if any movement of the sprockets occured.
Put some shop rags into the openings below the timing chain, to prevent small parts from disappearing, I don't think it would be a big deal, as I think they would end up in the oil pan, and it's not a real big job to remove the oil pan.
Reattaching the master link is a bit of a job, I used some tywraps to hold the ends of the chain together, then installed the old master link from the front side to get it lined up, then installed the new master link from the back side, took all of a minute or two, I think I got lucky too !!!
Then install the master link clip with the closed end in the direction of rotation.
Only thing that would cause any problems on reassembly, is to remember to put the two small paper seals where the attach bolts go through at the top of the case .
