The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => Restoration Progress Logs => Topic started by: NathanR65 on July 07, 2014, 02:22:28 AM
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Hi everyone!
This is my first post and also my first build so I thought I would share a few photos of my progress so far and a little info on my plan for the build.
Today i stripped the bike down to bare frame just need to get the damn swing arm out of the frame! I have grinded off the battery mounts and will delete the center stand also.
So far I have a rebuild kit for my carbs, new seals and gaskets for engine, new shaft bolts for rebuild (throw old ones out), new brush kit for alternator, tarozzi low rise clip ons, boxer metal rear set, cowl and seat pan on the way. New headlight mounts, acewell digital tacho/speedo, indicators, rear light and grips. Airbox delete kit with pod filters and choke pulls. I have also already rebuilt the forks and added new gators.
Plan to powder coat rims and paint frame satin black, engine to be painted cast aluminum with satin black highlights, not sure on colour theme for tank and cowl and fenders.
I am soda blasting my carbs and a few other bits tomorrow so i will post again with some updates. Any ideas/tips for my build appreciated!
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Some pics from today
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Started soda blasting tonight. Carbs come up pretty good I think
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That soda blasting is pretty cool. I have looked into it myself but unluckily I do not have a compressor. The results are pretty impressive taking into account the starting point. Good luck, I think they will look cool once they are polished up and back on the bike.
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My '81 was also "born" in 10/'80.
Great job - keep it up and keep us posted!
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Confirm for us that your engine lift straps did not bear on the pushrod tubes.
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I lifted the engine using the straps tied around the bottom of the heads not on the tubes.I also had a jack underneath to take most of the weight.
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Looking good!
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I lifted the engine using the straps tied around the bottom of the heads not on the tubes.I also had a jack underneath to take most of the weight.
That would be a bit better. Your photos show the lift straps at the bottom of the cylinder jugs rather than the bottom of the heads as you stated. Depending on how far you plan to take the engine, it would be much easier to replace the pushrod tube's rubber grommets while the engine is removed from the chassis.
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I'm replacing all gaskets including the boots on the pushrods as well as wheel bearings, steering head bearings etc. here's a pic of my clamps I took to work and had bearing heated up to remove from bottom and I deleted the bar mounts on the top clamp just need to give it a polish. Powder coating frame, rims and a few other bits this week!
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Hit it with some wet and dry
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Made my own driveshaft socket at work on a wheel grinder
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Test fitting of the cowl and seat pan before sending the frame off
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Nice work mate, love your work bench was the missus at work ;)
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While I'm waiting for the frame and other bits at the powder coater I have been busy with cleaning and painting and have changed over most nuts and bolts to Allen head stainless for the rebuild.
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Looking sharp. [smiley=thumbup.gif]
Regarding your -and other owners- change out of hardware to SS cap screws or other nut n' bolt materials; many of the BMW hardware bits have specific length, non-threaded shanks. These shanks are designed to be load bearing. Replacing them with hardware which has threads within the loaded area is not a good idea. The products so bonded can move a bit during operations due to the less than specified tolerances.
Engine, brake and chassis -all have some bolts or screws that must be load bearing. Performance and safety may be degraded by incorrect hardware. Be sure. Be safe.
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Good advice Monte, I am now at the point of nut/bolt selection in the re-assembly and will be taking no chances!
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Did the tube seals and o rings on the heads today. used a couple of skewers to compress the rings worked a charm. Cleaned up the heads and checked the bores etc
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I've finally received my frame and various other bits back from the powdercoaters and quite happy with the results. Will touch up the bmw logo on the top cover with some silver paint. Now I can start the rebuild!
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this may be completely un-needed advice, in which case I apologize for wasting your time but I remembered something in the course of assembling my own heads yesterday that has been a cause of grief for many.
Your rocker shafts need to go on such that the punch marked end is upper most in order that the oil feed via the upper studs can lubricate the needle rollers.
If your engine has not run for some time, you should move the rocker shaft down about half the length of the rollers and oil them up so that they are adequately pre-lubed, it is also a good idea to ensure that the oil feed is working as soon as possible after first start.
And, if like me, you have a momentary lapse of concentration whilst applying the start up lubrication and end up with needle rollers all over your work bench. A clean plastic lid with a small quantity of lithium grease smeared in it is the go - after you wash the rollers in solvent put them on the grease smeared lid and work them round a bit, you only need a hint of grease on the rollers and they will stay in lace as you laboriously put them all back in the race.
To anyone wondering, you have the right number of rollers in the bearing when there is a little bit more than one roller's worth of space left, in other words you could put one more in, but not two - that is the way they are designed.
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I followed a youtube video by chris harris for replacing pushrod tube seals and setting valves torquing heads and adjusting rocker arms etc. Didn't remove the rocker shafts so oil is still present and checked this by measuring the play in the rockers once tensioned by pushing up and down on the rocker to see the oil squeeze out at the top and bottom. But thanks for the advice
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Hi there mate - this is a great looking project - loved the photos. Its coming together really well. I look forward to seeing the project finished ;)
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Hi Adrian thanks for the kind words, I have a bit of an update today after a bit too much pondering I started the rebuild! Slow going for me as I wanted to make sure I was setting everything correctly but it almost looks like a bike again instead of a box of parts. To everyone on here that is following I would like to say thank you as it has given me a bit of a boost.
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Currently wiring up my acewell speedo and fitting all the electrical components starting to come along !
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Looking forward to the end result mate, great job.
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Plenty of folks would still be sitting around looking at a naked frame and drinking beer! Putting even little bits back on is a huge step forward. I like the rear turn signals.
That garage looks mighty comfy ;)
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You might find the handling a little too lively now that you have pushed the fork tubes up through the top yoke by that much. You will have shortened your rake and trail.
It might be better to mount those clip-ons under the yoke and have the tops of you fork stations flush with the top surface of your top yoke, unless you have done something with your fork internals.
Let us know how you get on.
Cheers
Rev. Light
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[smiley=tekst-toppie.gif]
You might find the handling a little too lively now that you have pushed the fork tubes up through the top yoke by that much. You will have shortened your rake and trail.
May have the steering responses of a trials bike. Should be fun at speed.
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Hello buddy,
I saw you got a different fuel tank on your R65. I have a 1980 model R65 (dual shock version), but just can´t "plug n play" fuel tanks from other models, like R75 o R80
How did you manage to fit it there? Did you do any MOD for the tank?
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Hi Dong,
As far as I am aware my tank is the original tank for my R65. Its got a bail type mount which locks around the backbone tube and is not bolted in as such. All my relays and plugs etc sit neatly underneath.
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Also a bit of an update, bike is pretty much sorted. I am now just waiting on my seat to come back from the upholsterer. Once I have that back I will take some pics of the finished bike and you will be able to see my colour theme that I went with ;)
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Permit me to re-address the issue of replacing OEM nuts n' bolts with stainless.
Always use an aluminum-based anti-sieze compound on each and every threaded bit. Don't even think about a temporary install as the nut n' bolt will most likely gall and be ruined.
Also, due to the lubrication provided by the anti-seize, reduce the torque wrench readings by 15%.