The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => Restoration Progress Logs => Topic started by: Adrian on September 11, 2011, 02:37:42 AM
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;) I hope this is appropriate but I just wanted to say how much help this forum has been to me recently. I'm in the process of giving my R65 a major strip own overhaul and cleanup and I've read some useful info in the last few days. Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to put up stuff. Hopwfully a few piks will appear of my old sad Beemer as I start to spruce her up.
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Take lots of digi photos, Adrian. These will be a tremendous assist during the refit. So many peeps have run into problems with two items: control cable routing and wiring harness.
Press on, mate! Have fun.
Monte
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That's in a lot nicer shape than mine when I did the same thing. I have a bunch of photos (never enough) if you run into something you didn't shoot.
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Thanks guys - nice photos Steve. I'm mainly doing so much work as it needs a new drive shaft and it's got a bit messy over the last few years. I suffer with Chronic fatigue Syndrome so i don't get to ride much - only in the very good weather. It's something to keep me amused for a few minutes every day as and when I feel up to it. I'm in Old Fart Tinkering In The Shed mode once again. More piks will follow as I do the work - next is the forks and some welding on the headlamp bracket and then off with the barrels for a blasting cleeanup and stuff like that. ::)
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A note on your driveshaft, if the u-joint is the only thing thats worn out, you may be able to have a shop that specializes in drive shaft repair replace the u-joint it's only 'staked' in, not really difficult to replace .
A lot costly than relacing the driveshaft, if it doesn't really need it .
$30 for a u-joint, $3-400 for a driveshaft .
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Hi Bob - thanks for the advice. I hadn't considered that as an option because a BMW mechanic once told me that replacing the u joint wasn't possible on older units. I'll see what I can find out before buying an exchange unit. I guess being able to buy an exchange unit means that they can be repaired. Hmmmm - I must be getting old to have missed the obvious ;D
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Check Bruno's for u-joint repair/replacement http://www.brunos.us/
and another source of good stuff is http://www.bmwmotorcycletech.info/references.htm
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Hi again - thanx Teo for the info - sadly I'm over in Australia so taking advantage of recommended Americam shops isn't possible. Have a good day mate .....
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Hello again - just a few recent piks of the work so far. It's slow going but hopefully it'll look great and go well when it's finished. Taking the paint off has shown up some rust that needs treating. I'm looking forward to preparing and respraying it all soon.
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Hi Adrian,
We are both at about the same stage of strip down! like you I don't have a lot of time to spend on mine, but really enjoy it when I do.
Seeing the swing arm stripped down as you have pictured it is interesting as I am just about to do that, was it easy, the manual says you need "special" tools etc, but some of the experienced people on here differ in opinion.
I too have had the pleasure of getting top help from this site and it really makes a difference when you are working away on your own in the garage.
Are you going to make it pin perfect or get it to a point to ride and enjoy?
All the best
Chris
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Hi Chris - I see your from Yorkshire. I come from Surrey just south of London. Been here in Oz since 1991. Bought the bike in 1992. The swinging arm is a specialist job mate. I did try to build a type of press but it failed under pressure and just buckled. I would recommend taking it to a local bike shop and get them to dismantle it for you.
I bought a recon drive and new couplings as mine were heavily pitted and flattened on the contact surfaces. This was causing vibration and a clunking noise on take up. Check yours carefully. You must live near Motorworks - all those spares you see in the foto are from them. Excellent guys to deal with.
I'm hoping to respray or repaint as much as I can get off the bike without removing the engine. So the frame will have to be hand painted after some prep work. The paint I'll use is very good at drying smooth and adhering.
I have some really old wiring that needs attention - the barrels are coming off to fix some minor oil weepage - the external push rod tubes have also gone rusty so they need attention - new rings - and anything else I find needs doing. If all goes well I should have it all done in about 6 months. This is my second time around sprucing and repairing the old girl - last time was back in 1996.
I'm a disability pensioner so I have a short time each day when I can function reasonably well. I'm promised by my specialist that I will recover soon and be able to go back to riding again if only for short rides. I live in South Oz and the riding here is fabulous. I live close to the Adelaide Hills and the roads come in all sorts. Australia generally is a great country for biking. I get about 9 months of good biking weather a year. Eat yer heart out!!!
I hope you'll put some piks up of your bike too. It would be great to see how its all going.
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Looking forward to seeing the rest of the teardown and rebuild.
Cheers from Tucson, AZ! [smiley=beerchug.gif]
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Hello Adrian from UK - can you tell me something? I've heard that in Australia there are restrictions on use of classic bikes, like need to keep a log for every trip and limited number of days riding in any one year. Is that correct and can you add a few details? Like is it even true? And if so is it for all Oz or only certain states? Thanks!
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Hi Adrian,
Yes I live about 3 miles from Motorworks! I will be using Mollsprings to do the drive shaft, I am going the whole hog and make the bike "pin" perfect and then ride it! I can't wait!
I will post pictures and look forward to reading about your riding exploits when you are back in the saddle!
All the best Mate and look after yourself :)
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Hello Adrian from UK - can you tell me something? I've heard that in Australia there are restrictions on use of classic bikes, like need to keep a log for every trip and limited number of days riding in any one year. Is that correct and can you add a few details? Like is it even true? And if so is it for all Oz or only certain states? Thanks
Hi there - well you've sort of heard correctly. Here in Oz the vehicle registration (road fund licence) is slightly different than the UK. The thing you're talking about is a special rego for classic or vintage bikes. This allows for a bike to be registered for use on a certain number of days in any rego period - which in a 90 day period I think is 25 days. The log book is for recording the time and days the bike gets used. The idea is that if the police stop a biker for any reason they can make sure that he's keeping an accurate record of the rides.
Bike insurance companies offer similar deals. It's possible to insure the bike fully for weekend rides only - midnight Friday to midnight Sunday. When it's not being ridden the insurance will still cover the bike for theft and maybe a bit more. This can save the owner a heap of money if the bike is only ridden occasionally. My bike has seasonal rego. That means that I won't be "fined" if I don't register the bike all year. I tend to keep it off the road during the winter months as my health prevents me from riding in the colder weather. Here tho, I get 9 months of good riding weather in every year.
The down side is that in most states the open road speed limit is restricted to about 100 to 110 kph (60 mph or so) - the Northern territories are more sensible with a top speed of 140 kph. The level of police monitoring of the roads for speeding all around Oz is borderline paranoid.
Overall it's one of the best countries in the world for short and especially long distance riding. I've ridden thru the centre from Darwin to Adelaide - when I was younger - and I'm planning another long trip for when I'm not so ill.
Hope that was interesting for you - just a tad more than you asked
8-) ;D
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Hello Adrian from UK - can you tell me something? I've heard that in Australia there are restrictions on use of classic bikes, like need to keep a log for every trip and limited number of days riding in any one year. Is that correct and can you add a few details? Like is it even true? And if so is it for all Oz or only certain states? Thanks!
P.S. The rego for classic and vintage bikes is only an option. If a rider wants to ride everyday on his old bike then there's no restriction - he just has to rego the bike like the rest of us. Have a great day ....
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G'day blokes, A little more info on the club permit scheme. It was introduced here in Victoria earlier this year. It replaces a stupid system that only allowed vehicles registered as 'classic' to be used on designated club rides.
The new system allows for any roadworthy vehicle over 25 years old to be put on club rego and used for either 45 or 90 days a year as long as the owner is a member of an approved club. A 90 day permit is about $110 and a 45 day about half that. There are more than 300 approved clubs in Victoria. Normal full rego for a bike is $460
The logbook must be filled out before a trip begins. You're required to enter the date, 'particulars of trip' (ie where you're going), name and signature of user. It only needs to be filled out once a day no matter how many rides you do in that day. If you're caught without the logbook, or it is not filled in, your permit can be cancelled or suspended. There was a rumour that you could be treated as if you were using an unregistered vehicle.
I've got my '52 Ariel on club rego via the BMW club. There was initially a bit paperwork involved but the scheme seems to be working well and we're seeing lots more classic vehicles on the roads. I believe NSW and SA have similar schemes.
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Thanks. This kind of thing is a concern for those like me who ride many dry days all year round (except when near freezing!) but usually only for short distances, like 15 or 20 miles. I believe a number of countries have restrictions. So far in UK the only special provision for classics is a surprising one: no annual tax to pay on vehicles pre-1975 (that date does not roll forward). Any vehicle on the road (even if only parked) has to have insurance and pass the yearly roadworthiness test. That test only requires meeting the tech specifications for the year the vehicle was built, not today's -- luckily for us! However some testers have a pretty shaky knowledge of the details. Others become known for being up to speed on old vehicles.
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Hi Constellation. Here in Oz minimum insurance is included in the cost of the rego - well at least it is here in South Australia. This covers third party injury only so if an accident is deemed the fault of the rider, any damage to property has to be paid for out of pocket. It is possible of course to buy extra insurance up to fully comprehensive. Some of us poorer bikers seem to take the risk although I think that once the bike is finally rebuilt I'll be making myself afford some decent insurance. At my age - 57 yrs - it's not that expensive for fully comp on my bike. The last time I enquired a few months ago it was less than $500 per year. Basic property damage insurance is only $100 or so. That equates to less than $10 or $2 a week for peace of mind. It makes sense as I spend a lot of time riding out country when I'm well enough to ride in the warmer weather. The roads are empty and have the state maximum speed limit on most of them. In S.A. there are no yearly vehicle tests for bikes or cars that are privately owned. That sounds dangerous but a survey conducted acroas all accidents in Oz over a number of years found that only 3% of those vehicles involved in accidents were found to be unroadworthy. I know I pay dearly to have my old bomb looked after when needed but I do nearly all the maintenance on the Beemer myself. It's also fun.
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hzbloke - hi there. A '52 Ariel - sounds lovely. Howz about a pik? Maybe in Chit Chat? Were you aware of the confusion over the helmet laws here in Oz? I've put up a post on Chit Chat about it. It seems that what is legal in one state may not be legal in another.
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Here the yearly test was introduced in 1962 when there were still some terrible old sheds on the road like 1930s/40s cars with cable brakes and all that. The test cleared most of those away. On the other hand our local m/c dealer and tester told me that even now he sometimes tells customers not to bother, as the bike they bring in is visibly so dangerous there's no point in testing it at all. Like bent frame for example.
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Here the yearly test was introduced in 1962
Yes I remember those days before I left the UK for Oz. In those days (prior to 1987) bike shops were genuinely helpful about putting things right if there was a small problem and allowing a re - test only on the affected area. I started bike riding in 1969 at 16 yrs old. I've had a fair few bikes over the years. The Beemer has lasted 19 years with me so far. I might replace it one day if I ever win lotto lol lol.
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G'day Adrian, Here's the Ariel:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi768.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fxx330%2Fwockawocka%2Fariel.jpg&hash=64b846e66986abaab4cddfb86f9e678736d15ffd)
The helmet situation is ludicrous and caused largely by us not accepting that the fact that we are a pissy little country (54th by population). There are about a dozen cities in the world with populations greater than the whole of Oz. None of them feel the need to create their own set of standards for everything from olive oil to toilet seats. Yet we do. Surely with something as global as a helmet we should just accept either EU or US testing as adequate. And don't get me started on the idiocy of having all these separate states making up their own rules.
It's a nice day - I'm going for a ride in my (probably illegal) helmet.
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G'day Adrian, Here's the Ariel:
Excellent bike mate. Reminds me of my days in England when I owned a Matchless G3. Back in the days when what is now an old classic could be bought for 20 quid. With the helmet laws I wonder what the cops are wearin in S.A. so I'm going to chat with my local and very friendly cop shop about it. If a bike cop rides over into another stae does he get booked for his "non compliance" helmet. Also here in S.A. we no longer have rego stickers to display on cars or bikes. There are stories of S.A. drivers/riders being booked for not displaying a rego sticker that they cannot be issued with. How do the cops deal with that if they have to drive to another state? I'm looking forward to the cops explanation. It's an insane world we live in.
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Same nonsenses everywhere. In this country it's illegal (and quite often enforced) to overtake on the inside but if you go round London on the M25 ring road (Britain's busiest highway) you see overhead signs ordering you to stay in lane. So what are you supposed to do when you need to overtake? Break the law, or zoom across 3 or 4 lanes. And get done for dangerous driving.
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Same nonsenses everywhere
I remember the M25 from my pommie biking days apparently it has an unofficial track record held by some bloke in a super car. I watch Top Gear when it's on tv over here and Jeremy and the boys have talked a lot about the road rules particularly on freeways (or motorways in Pommie). I guess the polies are either paranoid and really out to get us or they've lost control of the real problem solving so this kind of law making gives them something to do between holidays breaks or maybe they just like stirring up trouble [smiley=beehive.gif]
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[movedhere] BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 [move by] Justin B..
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Well, at last I have some finished items to share from the originl condition thru to the final paint. These are the casings I like to have shiny black. I know it's not original but I like the look. I think its still minimalist in keeping with the ol' girls character. So hopefully the piks will all come up in order. I've used VHT engine enamel with their recommended primer. Both layers baked in the oven at 200 degrees for 1 hour as recommended on the can. This in theory makes the finish almost tough enough to bounce spanners off. I won't be putting that to the test :D Adrian ................
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Hey Adrain,
With the upper engine case and the B, M and W lettering, are you planning on rubbing those back to expose the bare aluminium?
Just a thought but an aluminium polish or polishing it with a small rotary polisher would make it look sweeeet. Once upon a time we used to use Brasso and fine (400) grit sandpaper on similar items. Just ensuring that you use aluminium oxide sandpaper and not carborundum.
My '84 R65 is due for something similar in the future and it is great watching all the little tips and tricks available here.
Cheers, Burt.
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Adrian, Real nice job on your cases. Interesting about your paint being baked in the oven. I found the original paint to be very hard, and I 'm wondering how you got them so clean? D2
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Hi Burt - yep I'm planning on rubbing carefully that area to reveal shiny alloy. Even though the paint is baked I'm leaving it foir a while to make sure its hard as before tackling the task.
Hi Dave - the first thing is to strip off the old paint. I use a Selley's Quik Strip and a brush. Its powerful stuff - it'll start to burn your skin the moment it makes contact so rubber gloves and all that is needed. Once free of paint I acid clean with an auto acid cleaner thats really good and can be watered down to reduce he power - highly recommeended. I use ChemTech Blitz Aluminium Cleaner with water mix 50%. I spray it on and leave it soaking for a while, brushing it over every few minutes to agitate the surface. I might do that a couple of times.
All these clean up, prime and spray processes take a long time - each batch of parts can take up to 4 weeks to go from old to new but the results seem worth it. I always have something at each stage so i work a little at a time in a sort of "production line" fashion. In between I pull bits of the bike if I feel well enough while I'm waiting for one process or another to progress.
So there you are - long answer to a short question lol. Such is my way. I hope Dave that your resto is going well. I shall be interested to hear about your wheels being powder coated. I'm having the tank and frame dome professionally so I'm interested now in having the wheels done as well- depending on your results.
Have a great day guys ............. Adrian
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Hi Adrian, I went through a similar process without the paint stripper etc. on the fork sliders, rear drive and the Bean Can Breast Plate. The paint stripper I used on the black cases/covers was not strong enough so I just ended up sanding them with wet/dry paper (150,220,350,600 grits) and I'm hoping that they will paint up OK. I'll post a picture later to show them. I don't expect to get my powder coated wheels and frame back for another 2 months :-[. Meantime I'm working on cleaning up the engine. As you say it goes a little at a time. I try to do something most days. I think my painted parts will be ready in a week or two [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif] Beswt to all of you. D2 P.S. the beautiful young woman with me in my photo is my daughter, Emma. The occasion was my step-daughter's Maija's, wedding.
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Hello guys - interesting to see how everyone's resto is proceeding along. Mine is still very slow but a little every day. I'm still stripping paint and cleaning up and respraying at the moment.
I need some advice please. I've pulled apart my brake calliper (Brembo) and I want to remove the pistons without damaging them. My Haynes says to blow them out with compressed air but I'm wondering if I can remove them another way. I don't have a compressor although any excuse to buy one frankly (lol lol) I'm replacing all the seals of course so it doesn't matter if I destroy those in the process.
Thanks for any help ...... Adrian
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I was going to suggest pumping the brake lever to move the pistons out but then re-read that you've pulled apart the Brembo... Have you a mate nearby with a compressor? A frosty Fosters might pay for a few minutes of air time. [smiley=beerchug.gif]
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Adrian,
If you use a dusting pistol off the compressor you just need to press and release (straight away) the trigger till the piston pops out. Just make sure you use a rag to catch the piston when all the muck flies out. Better still place it all in a plastic bag or wear a rubber glove. If you wear safety glasses you won't have to worry about any splatter (Sorry for throwing in the OH&S disclaimer [smiley=cheesy.gif]).
This was the way we used to do it on small aeroplanes from Mr Piper, etc when I was grafting for a living.
Cheerio, Burt.
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Thanks Burt - I like the idea of using a bag to catch all the bits. I'll pop up to my local servo and try the tyre inflation airline and see how that works. Cheers ... Adrian .............................
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Hello once again - it's been a while since I posted anything but the rsto goes on if but slowly. I finally have the old girl totally disassembled with some parts resprayed but much more wor to do as yet. Now I'm into findoing a paint shop to redo the frame, tank, subframe, front mudguard and a polisher to repolish my stainless steel Staitune exhaust. And much much more ::)
Attached is a photo of the latest problems I have encountered. Does anyone have a method to easily remove firstly ther bearings and secondly the push rod tubes. I would be very grateful for any advice as I don't want to cause any damage to the tubes or any surfaces.
Hope everyone is well and enjoying their bikes .......... :D
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Hi again - thought you might be interested in seeing the gradual strip down photos and just how sad the old girl looks att he moment.
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PIks part 2 .......
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And finally part 3 .............
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Hi Adrian,
I just noticed your new posting with your current pictures. You have really done a lot of work :) I know for me at times when everything was apart and in various states of refurbishing I would get somewhat doubtful that I could get it back together again. But now that the frame and painted pieces are back I'm psyched to be getting on with the challenges. I don't have the problem of CFS which slows you down so much.
The push rod tubes on my 83 are welded on to the cylinders and therefore do not come off. It made getting them clean and buff a little awkward but they came out ok [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif] Best wishes and thanks for all the great pics of your progress. D2
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... The push rod tubes on my 83 are welded on to the cylinders and therefore do not come off...
:oReally? Gotta be a story there. Spill it, Double Dave.
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Really? Gotta be a story there. Spill it, Double Dave.
Once again I think your wit has overflown my numb skull. What have I missed???D2
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Really? Gotta be a story there. Spill it, Double Dave.
Once again I think your wit has overflown my numb skull. What have I missed???D2
Push rod tubes are removable. The parts are listed in the fiche catalogs and BMW sells bunches of them. You stated, D2, that your push rod tubes are, "welded on to the heads and therefore do not come off."
Are the tubes actually welded to the heads or do you mean they are well stuck, as in welded on? Da Snowbum has extensive information on the care, feeding and replacement of the push rod tubes.
Overflowing wit and numb skull all in one sentence. We Be Luftkophs! :D
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Not only are we Luftkophs, but my brew must have been mixed with brake cleaner. [smiley=mad.gif] I could have sworn those suckers had a weld bead around the base. those 10 hours in the glass bead cabinet must have made them disappear,because they are gone now ::) Thanks for the correct informationD2
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Hi there - a couple of new piks to add after all this time - I'm still doing a bit of spraying to finish off the tank and mudguards - I've been too ill to do much but work progreesses slowly. Attached are the Exhaust pipes - one newly polished and the other waiting for me to start. The before and after look. Amazing what you can do with a Dremel, polishing wheels and a couple of weeks work. Take care guys ....
Adrian .....
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Beautiful job Adrian, I'm amazed that they cleaned and polished up so well. Lots of work. Despite your not feeling well you are getting her done [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif] Best Wishes, D2
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Hi Dave - thanks mate - yep its slowly getting done - hows your bike at the moment??? Happy New Year too - I hope oyu ahve a good one ;)
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..Does anyone have a method to easily remove firstly ther bearings and secondly the push rod tubes. I would be very grateful for any advice as I don't want to cause any damage to the tubes or any surfaces...
Adrian, You've been a busy fella! Excellent work and I sure wish I had an unblemished headlight shell trim ring like yours. Those rascals are expensive!
That lower tapered roller bearing on the steering stem is held in place with only a couple millimeters worth of very small splines on the bottom of the stem. As such, a small amount of lift will free it to easily slide completely off.
It appears in your photo that the often overlooked thin metal dust shield is still in place between the bearing and lower triple clamp. You'll most likely ruin this little bit removing the bearing so there's something else to restock.
I bought a steering bearing removal and replacement tool when I did the '83's worn out bearings but lacking that, I'd try a couple hardwood wedges, placed 180 degrees apart, to encourage the bearing to move up a couple millimeters. The wood will not scare the triple clamp but will most likely pop the bearing off the tiny splined area.
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Hi Montmil - thanks mate I bought the tool you talk about and it weas easy to remove the things - I'll be able to use the same tool to replace that lower bearing race when i get to that point in the future. Yep the chrome and stainless steel on the bike is coming up really well as there is no rust anywhere. I'm hoping to make the tool to replace the bearing cups into the neck of the frame - I plan to do as much as possible myself on everything as its gonner save me a fortune - Take care mate and Happy New Year ;)
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Nice Work.
There are some really nice restorations of late.
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Well hello again - its been a while since I was last here. Darned illness and moving house and settling in. Finally back to working on the bike again - albeit slowly. No shed to work in but I've got a kitchen (lol lol lol) and I live alone.
So the gearbox is at home and this is how to get 30 years of rubbish off the casings. Green nylon scourer pads and a bit of elbow grease. Not bad even if I do say so myself. Next will be the heads and barrels.
A question - the 3 seals on the gearbox - can they be replaced without pulling the box apart? And can it be done at home assuming I have reasonable skills and aptitude?
Thanks for any help/answers ........ Adrian ;)
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Hi Adrian,
Good to see you are still at it. I'll let others comment on the seals as I have not attempted them myself.
Cheers, Dave.
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I know the shifter seal is easily replaced, at least from what I've read. I've pulled mine out and am waiting for the replacement.
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Thanks guys - I'll keep researching the seals thing - I'm sure Snobum's site will be useful to :)
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Well hello again - I'm back at work on the bike again after more than a year without a shed and being so ill. I still don't have a shed but I'm starting to work on the lesser items to prepare them for the time I can start the rebuild proper. things like wiring needs cleaning and repairing - overhauling the starter motor and heads - getting bearings into place on the wheels and whatever - gearbox seals - you get the idea. Pictures will follow as the work progresses. Hopefully an shed will come my way soon. At least I can do the work here at home for now.
Its been good to read about everyone's bikes/lives/rebuilds and all that stuff. Here's to the next 12 months ........ ::)
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Hi Adrian,
Good to hear you are still plugging away with your 65, I am so sorry to hear you have been unwell, please keep positive and focused on getting your bike back on the road and ready for you to ride!
Cheers
Chris
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Hey there, Adrian. Thought you may have been abducted by young Gypsy wimmens and made their " boy toy". ;)
Good to know you're feeling stronger. Been missing hearing from you but I won't fuss at you too hard for not joining in the conversations. Keep positive. Stay after your R65. Call home more often.
[smiley=beer.gif]
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Thanks guys I appreciate the comments - here's some piks of the appropriately labelled but seriously grubby wiring. So armed with acetone, switch cleaner and heat shrink tubing of various sizes - its time to fix it all up.
I'm had a great time with the gypsies by the way - but I thought it was time to leave - I'm getting too old for that kind of stuff ;D
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hey there
I was able to repace the swing arm bearings with some heat, a bearing puller, and a piece of 3 1/2 " long galvanized pipe, it was nice to get the satisfactionof doing the work and it worked out just, but in hind sight I woud have just taken the drive shaft over to bmw to do the work.
I wil try to put some pictures or video the bearing puller for you.
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another shot of the swing arm
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Sweet!
Nice job, I didn't have those stickers on mine :-[
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Appears long-time member Adrian has had his thread hijacked. >:(
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It would appear so Monte, I didn't realise until after I posted.
My apologies Adrian, no offence meant :)
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It would appear so Monte, I didn't realise until after I posted.
My apologies Adrian, no offence meant :)
T'ain't you, Chris.
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Hi guys - nice to read your stuff and see the pictures. I still come on he forum and read a lot even if I'm not posting.
I'm reboxing all the bits to my R65 at the moment - moving everything into plastic storage boxes and out of cardboard boxes. Most of the bike is now under my big old queen size bed - you can tell live alone huh!!!! I still don't have a shed to work in although some friends of mine are planning to build a new home maybe next year an if nothing has turned up in the meantime I will be able to use one side of their double garage they plan to build.
Its disappointing having the whole bike in storage boxes but I'm a believer that all things come about and fall into place when the time is right. My friends are even planning to buy me a small second hand car so I can travel to their new home to do the work. My 44 years old car is not well and I don't know if I'll be able to fix it. So hopefully all this will happen soon.
In the meantime once I have everything properly stored and labelled I'll be able to do some work on the bike bits - such as carbie cleaning - gearbox seals - swing arm bearings - you get the picture. Living alone means my kitchen can become a part time workshop for smaller things.
Take care guys ....... :D ;D :o
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Sounds like your having a tough time Adrian.
Love the positivity of your outlook, in my line of work, I spend a lot of time with very sick patients and those that have your outlook always do way better than the others.
Boxing all the bits up is in itself therapy because you continue to plan for the future. I have had my bike in bits since 2011 and only in the last few months is it coming together.
As you say, there is a time for everything.
Keep doing all those little jobs, that will save much time later and you can enjoy getting everything ready for when that time is right.
All the best
Chris
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Most of the bike is now under my big old queen size bed - you can tell I live alone huh!!!!
Loved that bit.
When I was 16 I smuggled a dismantled car engine up the stairs and hid it under my bed. It was a few weeks before my mother spotted it.
Beds aren't what they used to be though. No space under them these days !
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When I was 16 I smuggled a dismantled car engine up the stairs and hid it under my bed. It was a few weeks before my mother spotted it.
When I was 16 I hid my girlfriend under the bed when I heard my mother coming up the stairs.
Thought I got away with it too.
Only a few weeks before she died she told me she knew damm well my girlfriend was there all those years ago.
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thanks guys - when I start the work again in earnest I'll b posting again ;) ;D
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Right - time to stat some work again to try to progress the smaller stuff while I'm shedless ;D
I want to spend some time cleaning the carbies. Does anyone have some advice on what to use on the inside and outside to achieve this? I've read a few blogs but there doesn't seem to be any one process that is recommended.
Has anyone here done this and has maybe written it up with pictures? Any advice is so very welcome. Thanks ............
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WELL!!!!! As is my birthday in a few days a friend of mine has bought me an Ultrasound Cleaner. I spent a lot of time researching this to see what other bikers have to say about them. Everyone is very impressed with them. So mine should arrive in a week. I'm looking forward to using it initially to clean up my carbies. So my kitchen is about to become a workshop lol lol. All the Youtube vids look great. And no smelly chemicals. There are distinct advantages to living alone ;D . I'll post some "before and after" pics when I have some ;)
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Happy Birthday... in a few days... to you, Adrian.
May the coming year find you with improving health and much happiness. [smiley=beer.gif] CHEERS!
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Hi there and thanx Montmil ;)
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Back again - Okay first problem of taking the carbies apart. Has anyone any advice on how to remove the Pivot Pin that holds the floats in place? I'm loath to put too much pressure on the pin by hitting a drift on it too hard. ALSO - I might replace the diaphragms while they are apart. Does anyone have any experience of non OEM diaphragms - or I it best to buy the OEM type? I have a vague memory of some advice on the forum some time ago about NOT buying the cheaper ones. Am I right? Thanks for any advice .......
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The float pivot pin is serrated at one end only and should be driven out from the other end. Trick is to discover which end is which. It's easy enough to see when the carbs are off but not so easy when the carbs are on the bike. Both carbs are the same and not handed in this respect so if the carbs are on the bike one side will need the pin driving in towards the engine and the other side the pin will have to come out away from the engine which is not so easy.
Provided the pin is pushed in the correct direction it should move easily enough with a few light taps and little stress on the mounting lugs.
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Hi Barry and thanks - I can see the knurled end using a magnifying glass so no probs there ;)
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Encourage you to use OEM Bing carb diaphragms.
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Hi Montmil - yep I'm trying to find someone to order them from. Snowbum recommends them or a Bing service kit - which I can get from Motobins. I have the carbs - or the first one completely stripped down except for the main jet assembly. Its seized in place so I'm wondering what to do about that. Its only 10 mm in size the "nut" so I'm thinking that a very long lever onto my socket arm might be the go. Everything else has come away okay - using an impact driver on all the screws. I'm just waiting on a reply from Munich Motorcycles here in Oz before I make a final choice of what to buy and where.
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Go gently on that main jet block! Suggest you first try some of the best ever 'magic juice' to assist in the removal.
Mix up a small batch of 50:50 hydraulic brake fluid and acetone. Swab the joint and keep it damp for several hours. O'nite would be best. With the carb body inverted, you may be able to flood the area. Amazing stuff. Betcha that'll allow little more than a gentle tug for the giveway.
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I have the carbs - or the first one completely stripped down except for the main jet assembly. Its seized in place so I'm wondering what to do about that. Its only 10 mm in size the "nut" so I'm thinking that a very long lever onto my socket arm might be the go. Everything else has come away okay
I had that happen one one carb. If you use excessive force and shear the casting the carb will effectively be scrap. It took me several days of heat cool cycles and applying penetrating fluid to shift it. The O ring on the main jet holder may prevent the penetrating fluid from reaching the threads if you apply it only from below so it's be best to apply it from the side through the emulsion air inlet port which can be clearly seen top left on this cross-section. You can see that it leads nicely to the space above the threads. That annular space tends to get clogged up with engine breather condensate which is what often causes the main jet holder to seize. In the worst case scenario if the space is packed absolutely solid the penetrating fluid might still have trouble getting to the threads but there is no other way. If you spray fluid down this air port and it comes out the main jet and the needle jet then the space isn't blocked solid.
Good luck, it will feel good when it eventually frees up and unscrews.
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Thanks Barry - I'll give it a try today ;)
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Okay - here are the first pics of the carby clean up. It all came apart without any real dramas. Thanks to a couple of very helpful guys on here and Snobum's site. Everything has been cleaned with highly toxic and very efficient Carby Cleaner. So as soon as my Ultrasound Cleaner arrives it'll be interesting to see the results. New every thing internal is about to be ordered. So much for a quick tidy up. $300 odd Aussie dollars later ........
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As you can see I not only took lots of fotos for reassembly - I made a few notes too ......... ;D
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If you've broken down both Bings and their respective enrichener bits, it may get sorta confusing during reassembly. Seeing as you have the carb bits in separate containers, reassembly will be less perplexing. However, those enrichener parts can be done up back-ass backwards and still go back on the carb body! You wouldn't be the first...
Several folks here have good photos of the enrichener parts in correct position. Shout out when everything is freshened and we'll post up pics for you.
For now... Happy cleaning. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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Here's a tip for a possible small improvement on re-assembly. The enricher gaskets have a bit of a reputation for getting sucked in. I think that may be in part due to the flatness of the mating surfaces on the cover. While it's apart check the fit of the enricher cover against the casting and if needed lap the cover on some wet and dry.
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thanks Barry - I'll check that - I had read somewhere - probably Snowbum - about that - there was a suggestion of using a semi setting gasket compound - just a very thin film. But I think its probably wise to do both ;)
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If you've broken down both Bings and their respective enrichener bits, it may get sorta confusing during reassembly. Seeing as you have the carb bits in separate containers, reassembly will be less perplexing. However, those enrichener parts can be done up back-ass backwards and still go back on the carb body! You wouldn't be the first...Several folks here have good photos of the enrichener parts in correct position. Shout out when everything is freshened and we'll post up pics for you.
Thanks mate - I've taken a few pics to make sure - I hope - that I put it all back the right way. I'm only taking one carby apart at a time to prevent any mixing of bits. I'll let you know when I'm reassembling - so I can see the pics thanks ;D
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Hello again - well the results of the Ultrasound are disappointing but the unit I bought is faulty - but the company gave me my money back without any problems. I now own a dysfunctional ultrasound cleaner lol lol, It sort of works a bit so I have used it to clean off the top layer of crud. Then used Rub and Buff to finish off the surface. So here is carby number one looking quite good I reckon ........
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Looks very smart indeed.
Will you be attempting to "potato" print the white paint on the black cover.
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Will you be attempting to "potato" print the white paint on the black cover.
Hi Barry - how is that done - I assume you're referring to printing the raised parts of the black cover .....
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In principle you apply some paint to a relatively firm flat surface to form a paint pad. Apply that to the black plastic cover so that the paint is picked up only on raised parts. Not really suggesting use of a potato but something analogous could be devised.
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Thanks Barry = sounds good .........
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Okay - here it is - finally I have finished the Rubb and Buff on both carbies and all the new parts have arrived. Next job is to rebuild the two - slowly and carefully - I have to say that the Clymer manual is very detailed and has great fotos - add my strip down fotos and notes to the mix and hopefully nothing will go wrong ..... :D
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Your Bings will, as we say in Texas, sparkle like a diamond in a billy goat's ass.
Gotta be heaven working with all new bits. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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Gotta be heaven working with all new bits
Hi Monty - yep its nice to have all new stuff - this is just the beginning of a long journey thru the bike and engine. It's gonna be fun ......
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Well here they are - all finished and ready for action ...... Moving on to the swing arm bearings and drive shaft ......
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Beautiful job!
Outstanding work, looking forward to the next section
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Thanks Chris - more piks to come soon .......
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Hello again - its been a while - finally I have the money to continue the work. Still don't have a shed but small things are happening again.
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So I am starting with a new cover and strap for the seat. So - does anyone have any ideas where I might get a new seat foam from??? Or where I might get some gel inserts perhaps.
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My usual suppliers don't have them. Any help will be very appreciated thanks ........ Adrian
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Damn, those carbs came up nice. Well done!
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Thanks Peter :-)
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... So - does anyone have any ideas where I might get a new seat foam from??? Or where I might get some gel inserts perhaps...
Should we assume that you have already contacted automotive upholstery shops? That's who took care of my R100S seat needs.
Good to hear from you, Adrian. Check in more often, if only to say, [size=12]Howdy, folks.[/size]
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Hi Montmil. I thought of them but was hoping to buy a pre formed foam. I haven't been very lucky with this. Oh well your idea is probably the the way to go after all :-)
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So - here we go. The start of the seat resto. It looks okay on the surface but once it was taken apart you can see the problems. The seat tray needs respraying - new rubber bumpers are needed - and the foam is all crumbly and not in good nick. So time to find an Auto Upholstery shop for new foam. Years ago I had the tray plated in Zinc to stop any more rusting - which seems to be the case. ;) ::)
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Having got sidetracked into making a new backrest pad I finally started on the seat tray. Here is the thing with all the paint removed and a gentle rub over with some very fine wet/dry paper. Soon to be black - once the weather improves for spraying :-)
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Okay finally the resto is back on track - So even though it gets to 40 degrees C sometimes - I'm back in the shed at last. What's that about mad dogs and Englishmen????
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The new lift tray is great - here's the start today of the sub assembly attached back to the frame - no bending down any more - woohooo
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The other picture is the centre stand attached - but my first problem has arrived.
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How do I attach the springs to the Centre stand and frame? I have given it a quick try with bent nose pliers - and that wasn't very successful.
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So any help is going to be very much appreciated thanks Adrian
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The spring .......
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And why is it only possible to post one picture at a time now???
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Looking like some nice work Adrian.
Not sure about the issue of one image at a time, I had some issues with this a while back, but it may have been me not the forum! Check out that thread, it might help.
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Panic over - I saw a photo of a spring puller on another forum - so this photo is my version - a large set of mole grips and a very small allen key I found in the bottom of my tool box - suitably bent.
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The spring was so easily stretched and went onto the small ring on the centre stand with no problems whatsoever.
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Sometimes I surprise myself ;D
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It's great when you get help and then fix it yourself!
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It's great when you get help and then fix it yourself!
Thanks Chris ;)
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So a little more has been done - swing arm on - bevel drive and the suspension units too. I forgot to order washers for all the nuts and plugs and filler bolts and all that - derrrrrrr must have had seniors moment or two.
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Anyway thanks to the quick and efficient mob in Western Australia - Munich Motorcycles - I had them today with them arriving overnight - great bike shop and highly recommended
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So 2 more pics -
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Looking good, Adrian!!!
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Thanks Wilcom ;)
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I made my own Zinc Plating kit from info I found on the net. This is my test bolt to see how it all goes. Not a bad result considering this was a fully rusted up bolt. Not the brightest star in the night sky but acceptable.
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So some wire brushing and then a clean in Isopropyl Alcohol and here it is after two 30 minute sessions. Not bad .....
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By the way I did buy a replacement fasteners kit for the bike but some of the fasteners etc aren't included.
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The green looking liquid is acid mixed about 75% to 25% water.
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I made my own Zinc Plating kit from info I found on the net
Hi What electrolyte did you use? They look alright.
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Hi What electrolyte did you use? They look alright.
Hi Skippyc - the electrolyte is made from 6 liters of white vinegar - 1 kilo of white sugar and 1 kilo of sea salt.
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the zinc rods are plain ol' zinc anodes that can be bought from any decent boating shop. They are usually 99% or better zinc so they make excellent anodes.
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Once the salt and sugar have been dissolved in the vinegar put the anodes ( I use 4 - that's two zinc anodes cut in half) put the anodes in to the liquid for about 12 hours before using.
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It works really well ......
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Nice job Adrian,
She is going to look very nice[ch128077]
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Hi What electrolyte did you use? They look alright.
Hi Skippyc - the electrolyte is made from 6 liters of white vinegar - 1 kilo of white sugar and 1 kilo of sea salt.
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the zinc rods are plain ol' zinc anodes that can be bought from any decent boating shop. They are usually 99% or better zinc so they make excellent anodes.
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Once the salt and sugar have been dissolved in the vinegar put the anodes ( I use 4 - that's two zinc anodes cut in half) put the anodes in to the liquid for about 12 hours before using.
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It works really well ......
Thanks i will give it a go for my BSA bike bolts.
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Hi again Skippy ~ if you like I could email you the instruction sheets I have giving precise details of the process.
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Thanks Adrian that would be good.
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Thanks Adrian that would be good.
Would you like to PM me your email address mate????
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;) Hopwfully a few piks will appear of my old sad Beemer as I start to spruce her up.
You have come a long way Adrian.
I see you have an unmistakable Don Wilson sourced brake disc too. I've been wanting to buy a couple more discs (too lazy to make my own these days) but product liability laws seem to have scared everyone off - except for Metalgear and they are way, way too expensive.
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Hi peoples - just checking in as it were - the work on reassembly is about to begin in earnest at last.
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My local - well that is 100 kilometers distant - BMW engineering shop has had the wheels and gearbox and stuff since just before xmas.
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Wheels are home again and the motor is about to be rebuilt and converted. The barrels are shot so I have decided to go with a genuine 860cc conversion as well as having the motor completely overhauled.
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Thankfully my state licensing authority only need notification when its done and a form completed and that will be all I need to register the bike again when its all finished..
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So now the autumn is here and its much cooler time for some serious work in the shed.
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I am now considering a dual disc conversion while the bike is still just a frame on wheels. So can anyone recommend conversion kit for me - 1984 Twin Shock R65.
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Anyway - pictures will follow as the work progresses - and I'm looking forward to a new looking - totally restored motor too :-)
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Hi again - my first real problem with re assembling the front forks.
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Both fork legs will - with gentle persuasion - fit thru the lower clamps. however neither of the legs will fit into the top clamp.
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Firstly I have tried to prise apart the gap where the pinch bolt goes. This has always worked in the past. I have also tried heating the top clamp to a temperature that is too hot to touch and the left side leg will go in. But the right side leg refuses to go in more than 2mm before jamming up completely.
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My Vernier says that both the clamp internal diameter and the fork leg external diameter are exactly the same 45mm size. Measured at several different points on the circumference.
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At this point I have considered honing out the clamp.
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Any help will be very much appreciated thanks.
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P.S. Any suggestions about a twin disc conversion?????
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Okay finally the weather is good and the work has begun - again :-)
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Now it's starting to look like a bike - front brake next .....
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Adrian,
It's looking very good and really coming together, the finished article is going to look very very nice[ch128077]
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It's looking very good and really coming together, the finished article is going to look very very nice[ch128077]
Thanks mate - much appreciated. I don't expect to get the motor back for a while so I'll start at the front and work backwards across the bike. :-)
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It will keep me busy for a while and then the motor can slot back in as the final action more or less ;)
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Well finally the motor is back with me - all new and fully refurbished and converted to an 860 - how sad that I had to buy - because new parts for the R65 aren't available - the conversion kit that gives me about a 35% increase in cubic capacity lol lol
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So hopefully this spring - about 2 months or so - I'll be riding again ........
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And one more thing - I know to use mineraloil for the running in - change twice - at 1000 and again at 2000 - and filters of course - does anyone have a recommendation for the type of oil - I'm guessing 15/40 for the first 2000 kilometers - I have read about running in oil - is it necessary????
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Thanks for your help .....
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Okay time for a few update photos. Most of the wirng is on. Some lighting. And the motor on the jck - out in the sun 'cos I have to clean the block as the workshop forgot to get it blasted while it was stripped. Oh well - elbow grease and Scotchbrite green scourers is working.
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You're gonna be up and riding it before you know! Looks fantastic.
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Thanks Justin - I haven't done much for a couple of weeks. My illnesses get worse in the winter (Aussie in the southern hemisphere) I finally stopped buying parts lol lol lol. Mind you I thought that 2 months ago and recently spent another $800 Aussie [ch128513]
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Once the bad weather has passed I should be fine and back in the shed.
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That doesn't surprise me. The little bits and afterthoughts add up in a hurry!
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I am both jealous and ashamed at how nice and clean and shiny it is. Maybe you can use your downtime to just stare at how nice it looks!
Now I will put my head down and go to the garage and search for my degreaser.......
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Lol lol BPT - it has taken an enormous amount of money - and untold hours of elbow grease on my part - to get it to this stage so far.
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I have to admit that I'm at my happiest when I in the shed tinkering away. The downside is that it's in a friend's garage so I can't just walk out of my door and go faff about with it. But I am lucky that my friends let me take over half there garage space to do the work.
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I'll get there eventually - if I could gave a good week health wise I could get it mostly finished. I'm hanging out for the sunshine and heat to return [ch128522][ch128521][ch128579]
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Yep your absolutely right Justin - but I only have the seat to get rebuild now. Maybe $200 Aussie and that should be it.
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Of course I might be being optimistic lol lol
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I'm with you, Adrian. I don't have a garage at the moment so I usually go to my parents' place as they have a large, clean one. But that means I have to do projects a little at a time so I don't end up having to leave it. They're about 20 minutes drive away so not super far. But, like you, I can't just go back and forth too easily if I wanted to leave it.
But if you think you've only got a couple of weeks work to go, I'd say you're in the home stretch. Almost there....... .!
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At least I get to leave mine in one place BPT.
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So to get mine finished I just need my disabilities to go away lol lol lol. As soon as it warms up I should be able to get stuck in again.
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I did some work on it yesterday - I fitted new mudflaps having made some mounts for them. But last night and today I'm paying the price hahaha It was fun though so I don't mind the problems it can cause.
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Once I get something substantial done - putting the motor back in us next - once I've replaced the electronic trigger unit in the "bean can" and cleaned up the alternator with some isopropyl alcohol - then there will be more pictures.
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So near yet so far lol lol lol
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Okay time for some update pictures - still things to do of course - but I'm hoping to at least start her soon - I hope you enjoy them .....
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How it looks today ......
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A long journey and a great job Adrian!
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Hmm.. Something missing .. just can't put my finger on it.
I hope is runs as sweet as it looks.
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Today - after more than 4 years - I started the old girl up and ran the motor for a couple of mins - nothing exploded or went bang - and all the new wiring for the Acewell worked too - it seems I might actually know what I'm doing lol lol lol ;)
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Today - after more than 4 years - I started the old girl up
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Well done Adrian
Looking for the first ride report and your impressions of the 860cc kit (Mine remains in its box for the present). But Wilcom will be pleased to hear that 2 years after I bought it form him I have stripped the 32:10 final drive and am about to put new bearings and seals in it and re-shim.
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Wilcom will be pleased to hear that 2 years after I bought it form him I have stripped the 32:10 final drive and am about to put new bearings and seals in it and re-shim.
Sorry ya had to rebuild it Tony :( But will be interested in a report though. I have another 32:10 on the shelf now for the current R65
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Sorry ya had to rebuild it Tony :( But will be interested in a report though. I have another 32:10 on the shelf now for the current R65
Don't feel sorry Wilcom, I was *always* going to put a bearing and seal kit through it, after all that FD is at least 40 years old now. I'm sort of leaning towards keeping my R65, albeit customised my way. The upper K100 plastic has now been sent for repair, the next step will be to see if the RS/RT "side skirts" around the cylinders can be mated to the K100 fairing - the mounts most certainly do not line up but the actual parts look like they might, a question of bracketry.
I've just about committed to using a K100 tank as well, again a question of fabricating the brackets to fit. I'm hoping that the end result will be a reasonably powerful, decent looking, well handling confection that will cause curiosity and consternation wherever airhead owners gather. The only other modification I'm considering is a Monolever rear end from an early model G/S mated with the final drive from an R80- this would let me use (after modification) the K100 rear wheel so that my wheels will match. I may consider using a paralever rear end, but one will have to fall into my hands as I'm not about to mortgage a kidney for one.
One thing that has given me pause for thought was corresponding with an Australian Guy who has fitted a turbo-charged R100 engine and gearbox to a K100 frame - the end result being pretty much where I want to get to with significantly less fabrication..... Options, options.
Adrian, sorry for this in your thread, if anyone wants to discuss my thinking further let's move to a more appropriate conference.
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First look at the restoration logs area for a long time and looked through the photos and have to say that's a very beautiful thing. Such high quality work, the whole thing looks new - and I'm sure it will run and handle like a new bike. Very, very well done and a big congratulations. That'll put a huge smile on your face for a long time. Great therapy.
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Today - after more than 4 years - I started the old girl up and ran the motor for a couple of mins - nothing exploded or went bang - and all the new wiring for the Acewell worked too - it seems I might actually know what I'm doing lol lol lol ;)
Adrian.........are you on the road yet?
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Hi guys & thanks for the messages - it's nice to be acknowledged.
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Wilcom - the bike is very close to completion now. I'm cleaning up. The old panniers & I have to get a new foam made for the seat & have it reassembled. Then I can take it for a quick run to warm it up & set up the timing properly & tune up the carbies.
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It's taking time because of my illnesses which are much worse in the winter - so I'm not doing much right now. Plus I've run out of money again lol lol so I can take the time out of the shed to save up what I need.
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When I get home I'll put a picture or two up to show how far I've got with it.
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Here are the pics ......
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Hi guys & thanks for the messages - it's nice to be acknowledged.
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Wilcom - the bike is very close to completion now. I'm cleaning up. The old panniers & I have to get a new foam made for the seat & have it reassembled. Then I can take it for a quick run to warm it up & set up the timing properly & tune up the carbies.
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Here are the pics ......
Fine looking bike Adrian..........keep us posted
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Looking really good. I am heading to SA via Mildura and the mighty Murray next week, no bike though.
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Looking really good. I am heading to SA via Mildura and the mighty Murray next week, no bike though.
Have a great time ;)
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Time to show the bike off in the sunshine - not quite finished but just a couple of small things to do to be ready for the road
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EXCELLENT! Looks very nice.
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Can't wait to see how it runs on the road. It looks like new.
You've done a great job on it.
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Congratulations Adrian. It looks fantastic. I can’t wit to hear your feedback on the 860 upgrade once it’s got some miles under it.
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Thanks guys - finally finished faffing with it today - ready for it's first long - ish run to get it up to temperature so I can check the timing and tune the carbies.
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Of course now I'm ready I've been promised a few days of severe wet weather again - oh well that's life in the winter eh!
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Today I used the correct C spanner to adjust the rear shocks up to the middle position - and promptly bent it as the adjuster wouldn't move.
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I realized after a few minutes I was try to adjust the unit in the wrong direction - seniors moment [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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So bending it back into shape and all was well :-)
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So finally the bike is finished – the weather is okay – I’m having a period of improved health – the God of Motorcyclists is smiling upon me.
I’ve had 2 rides in the last 5 days – between crappy weather. The first a 25k run to warm up the engine so I could balance the carbs – all town riding.
The second – today – was half freeway riding – 25ks & up to 90kph followed by some hills riding – another 25ks & up to 100kph – lots of twisties and a road like a roller coaster lol lol.
The bike still feels a little rough – although much better than the first ride – and it might be pinging too – so I’ve refilled the tank with 98 octane – added to the existing half tank of 91 octane – should improve it I hope. When it was a standard R65 I always ran it on 98 & it was pretty smooth – so as I now have the 860cc conversion I might find that a better choice. For now the mix might be okay.
There is a very small flat spot between 3500 & 4000 revs – but once into the 4000+ band I was very surprised at just how much power there was available – not that I went mad but climbing the hilly bits was fun – so different to the original 650cc motor. I think I’m going to enjoy the larger capacity especially carrying a passenger.
So tomorrow will be another run around the local towns and rechecking the timing & the carb balance. Vibration is minimal and doesn’t seem to be affecting my feet or hands.
I wasn’t happy with the Acewell speedo/rev counter unit. It worked very well but was too small to see easily. So I had the original clocks restored – at amazing expense but worth it - & I am much happier with the bike looking standard.
Now spring and summer are here there will be much riding.
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Now spring and summer are here there will be much riding.
Adrian,,,,,,,,,,,,, I went back to your first post in this thread and it's been a 9 year labor of love. Lots of expense and loving touches went into your build, way to go!! Enjoy the riding season
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Adrian,,,,,,,,,,,,, I went back to your first post in this thread and it's been a 9 year labor of love. Lots of expense and loving touches went into your build, way to go!! Enjoy the riding season
Hi Wilcom - yep it took a while - not helped with about a 3 - 4 year gap in the middle when I had to move and I had no shed to work in.
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Add to that my ongoing health problems and then running out of money for a short while.
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So apart from being a little rough at the moment - it was such a pleasure riding the old girl once again - and on one of my favourite local country roads.