The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => Restoration Progress Logs => Topic started by: AlfromNH on September 27, 2013, 02:55:42 PM
-
I posted my introduction in the Chit Chat forum. I've now started disassembly of my '79 R65.
So far, no big surprises. The front wheel bearings feel real good, but the steering head bearings are notchy and stiff.
I noticed both forks have bosses for calipers. Here's the right leg:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_20130924_195539_458_zpsa51c6039.jpg&hash=7e07a931992c87175b0948fee7a1edb8d5d36b1b) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_20130924_195539_458_zpsa51c6039.jpg.html)
And the brake line from the master cylinder feeds into this block, which has a second outlet plugged:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_0093_zps850c0ce9.jpg&hash=eacf0f2bc966206cfaf671fc6b9985dc77217692) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_0093_zps850c0ce9.jpg.html)
Is all this standard for a '79? And would it be as simple as bolting on a 2nd disc using the same bolt pattern, then adding a caliper and brake line?
-
Not all the standard R65 bikes came with the fork lowers for the right side disc brake, but many of the north american bikes did - like yours! This is a bonus, as it can be tricky to find a right side fork slider with the mounting lugs if you don't have one. Basically, you do need the rotor, rotor carrier that bolts to wheel hub, calipers, some top-hat shaped spacers inserts that slide into those lug holes, and brake line to go to that splitter.
Depending on the size of your master cylinder (size in mm is stamped on body of the metal base, sometimes on the bottom) you may or may not need to change that out. The 79 bikes had a round plastic reservoir m/c that was either 14mm or 16mm piston diameter (depending on whether setup for single or dual front discs). The later models had rectangular m/c assembly that is still currently available (new parts from dealer, and rebuild kits) while the old round style are only available on the used market and they are not technically rebuildable, though some have managed in some cases.. The later rectangular units came in 13mm and 15mm, again, for single or dual disc setup, but some people prefer running the smaller m/c with the dual disc setup as it gives them more lever travel and is easier to modulate. With 15mm m/c on my LS with dual discs I cannot squeeze the lever anywhere near to the handlebar with normal 1 handed grip, and the front wheel is easily locked up with only 2-3 fingers. Some prefer less rapid progression.
Recommend you pitch the old rubber brake line and get some new stainless steel braided lines - you can order premade sets from bobs BMW in Maryland, they have someone build them to order. Or you can get the OEM BMW lines, but the SS lines definitely seem to offer a bit more "bite".
-
Not all the standard R65 bikes came with the fork lowers for the right side disc brake, but many of the north american bikes did
Interesting. I don't know that I'll add a 2nd disc, maybe down the road sometime. That "splitter" block is standard too? I guess it is the means for connecting the brake light switch, even if the second output is not needed.
The brake lever had no response, the master cylinder(the round type) was basically empty. So I'm gonna replace the lines, and rebuild both the mc and the caliper. Actually, I was planning on rbuilding the mc, but that's not an option? ::)
-
, I was planning on rbuilding the mc, but that's not an option?Roll Eyes
I rebuilt the round 16mm on my 79 with parts from Rubber Chicken Racing in PA. No problem encountered.
-
Unless you are trying to make it original, consider this route:
Use a later model 12mm master with a mechanical brake light switch located at the lever.
Ditch the multi-piece brake line/splitter mess and go with a single stainless braided brake line.
Simpler, cleaner, better hydraulic ratio.
-Armen
-
Unless you are trying to make it original, consider this route:
Use a later model 12mm master
I like this idea, but the lever assy has the mc, throttle, and switches all integrated. Is there a 12mm mc that will bolt right on?
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_20130930_074928_758_zps6c597b3f.jpg&hash=e023e2d6cdbb135be83fcf476a0d98353503675a) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_20130930_074928_758_zps6c597b3f.jpg.html)
BTW, my mc is indeed a 13mm:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_20130930_074835_649_zps24b99f0f.jpg&hash=1adc385f01c2bb37e42c98c07a27bf43cd1f5763) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_20130930_074835_649_zps24b99f0f.jpg.html)
-
Yes it will. or at least it will with a bit of 'fettling'.
I am running just such a configuration on my 79 R65. A 79 twin pull throttle, a post 81 'square' master cylinder for one disc, and a single braided stainless pipe. I am using banjo fittings also. I ditch all the rest of it.
I would add that it used to have 2 disc brakes but have gone to one. I tend to run my bike light.
The 'fettling' I alluded to, I think concerns the bolting up of the master cylinder to the throttle mechanism - a little bit of work with a round file, or a drill to get the holes to line up for the bolts if I recall.
Works a treat. I prefer the twin pull throttle of the earlier model and was glad to be able to keep it.
Cheers
-
Yes it will. or at least it will with a bit of 'fettling'.
I am running just such a configuration on my 79 R65. A 79 twin pull throttle, a post 81 'square' master cylinder for one disc, and a single braided stainless pipe.
Excellent info, thanks! It's off an '81 R65? Is there a range of models years that are the same unit? Off to eBay...
-
You just have to be careful of the master cylinder size - i.e. its for running an single disc, not two.
The same style of master cylinder was used across the range, I have a similar one fitted to my 82 R100 but is of a larger bore.
I am not sure how long this style of master cylinder was used for, it could be for as long as the airheads were in production - i.e. after the monolevers. I would not be surprised if the same style was used on the Ks as well. As they had Brembo's.
But remember you have a single ATE caliper so the feel will be slightly different as the ATE caliper has a different piston size to a Brembo unless you can get an exact match. But you should get away with it.
Rev. light
-
I have wondered from the first day I bought my R65LS if I could move my brake light switch to the splitter and get it off of the handlebars. Now I know.
-
I have wondered from the first day I bought my R65LS if I could move my brake light switch to the splitter and get it off of the handlebars. Now I know.
Or eliminate it and make sure you use you rear brake all the time.
I like the hydraulic switch fitted to the early models. I only had to replace mine once in 35 years, due to getting gummed up with old brake fluid.
I thought all R65's came with bosses on the right hand fork slider. I think BMW was thinking they could sell a lot of add-on kits?
It is the 70's model Type 247s that can be difficult to source a right hand leg with bosses.
-
I'm being redundant here, as I posted this pic in another thread, but I know how much we all like pictures! 8-)
This is my bike as it sits now
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_20131105_103044_263_zpsc590568f.jpg&hash=50f278794f9b989a22959799d109145409cae02c) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_20131105_103044_263_zpsc590568f.jpg.html)
The only reassembly I've done so far is the steering head, with new bearings and cleaned up triple clamps.
My fork internals were a mess. I bought a set of forks off eBay, and they only need a few parts which I have on order. Once I rebuild and reinstall the forks, I'm going to roll it out to the garage and pull the motor.
I'm contemplating have the frame powdercoated. There's a local place that will strip and powdercoat for ~$300. The frame's not terrible, just spots of rust except under the battery tray which is quite nasty.
I like the idea of a freshly treated frame, altho I don't intend to go nuts making the bike look showroom new. So I'm undecided about that at the moment.
-
Once the engine is out and the chassis is more accessible, take a good look at your centerstand. In your photo, the stand appears to be too far over-center; indicating excessive wear on the stand and/or the chassis stops.
I bit of welding build-up and grinding will make lifting the bike off the stand much easier.
-
Good eye, Monte. The centerstand definitely needs help. And the hole in the frame tab for the sidestand is ovalled also. I'll look into putting a bushing in there.
-
If you can find the cash, I would replace the side stand with a surefoot.
If its had a lot of use it could fail. Don't ask me how I know ;)
Inspect it carefully before refitting
Cheers
Steve H
-
If you can find the cash, I would replace the side stand with a surefoot.
If its had a lot of use it could fail. Don't ask me how I know ;)
Steve H
I think I saw evidence of that incident. [smiley=sad.gif]
I consider myself warned...
-
Progress to report!
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_20131204_160116_643_zpsdf23ebf7.jpg&hash=fdd2625801eb8c2d6db1f65997caf83f8536a97c) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_20131204_160116_643_zpsdf23ebf7.jpg.html)
Forks rebuilt and re-installed. Not much, but I've been spending so much time disassembling that any re-assembly feels like victory ;)
Next up: wheel it out to the garage, drain the fluids and pull the tranny, engine and swingarm.
-
One thing leads to another, and here we are:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_20131219_155557_681_zpscc44eaba.jpg&hash=084e9238290fa9bd0b8b870b87baed38d1df015b) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_20131219_155557_681_zpscc44eaba.jpg.html)
Hadn't intended to go this far. Now I guess I'm going to look into powdercoaters… ::)
-
Hadn't intended to go this far.
You and the bike will both be glad you did.
-
I haven't sent the frame out for powdercoat yet, but more disassembly on the engine.
I started another thread covering the clutch, but here's good news- no sign of leaking rear main bearing!
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN0919_zpse3c62a7d.jpg&hash=472ba7229114aadbe1b5b6827d483077bfe77d7d) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN0919_zpse3c62a7d.jpg.html)
On to the front. There were remains of what looked like a mouse nest around the alternator and bean can, never thought it looked very good
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN0925_zps25c9732b.jpg&hash=8403dfd9b8a591655c2570422b5478a71418cde1) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN0925_zps25c9732b.jpg.html)
uh, it's worse under the surface:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN0935_zps9598beaa.jpg&hash=0d937e87d7b05992ece7ad82808b255f509f1d79) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN0935_zps9598beaa.jpg.html)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN0930_zps63cd6f7d.jpg&hash=fdc1416e2cca16b1eddc7b65e6c87fb18a7d2bbf) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN0930_zps63cd6f7d.jpg.html)
Given the common electrical problems with these machines, this can't help matters any. :(
Pulled the timing chain cover, it looks to me like the adjuster is out pretty much as far as it will go? A new timing chain in order? The camshaft sprocket looks good, the crank sprocket is hard to see, but it looks good altho a little pointy.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN0962_zps74a83416.jpg&hash=cca4bc5e443089325c2e6eb5f7fad806e2596f4e) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN0962_zps74a83416.jpg.html)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN0954_zpsa24b1bc1.jpg&hash=36abd8136099765f7d625a5ec9fad824cd63a381) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN0954_zpsa24b1bc1.jpg.html)
Suggestions for cleaning the alternator? It looks like the same parts are used on a wide range of bikes, and I see a rotor and stator on eBay for $60 shipped. The pictures look much better than mine, maybe I should jump on that.
-
The early /5 alternators were only 180 watts, while later they upgraded to 270 watt.
Make sure it is the later.
And I'll bet you have already thought of replacing your large 3-wire cable going from the alternator to the diode board.
I wouldn't bother with a used one of those. Get nice clean connectors.
-
I bought the alternator & stator off ebay, they're from an '83 R80. According to the MAX fiche, they're the same part no.
I have a new(used) 3-wire assembly for the diode board, I'll take a 2nd look at it and decide if I want to order new.
-
I have a new(used) 3-wire assembly for the diode board, I'll take a 2nd look at it and decide if I want to order new.
I had a "new/used" one for 35 years.
Anything would be better than what you have! Just look inside the best you can. I've no good advice on cleaning the inside of those female spade connectors.
Obviously you know you want clean & shiny on your electrics.
Are you new to the concept of greasing the connections?
Dielectric/axle/vaseline - whatever you have on hand is fine.
-
Well, I think I may finally be done with the disassembly phase [smiley=clap.gif]
Timing cover off, the sprockets look good to my eye.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN1021_zps646951c1.jpg&hash=c997eee6a99117a2bd3c85fa25f34feaf608cb3b) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN1021_zps646951c1.jpg.html)
Took the oil pan off. A little gunky, not bad, and no metal bits. The cam lobes look nice and smooth with no appreciable wear. Sorry, no pics of that.
So, new oil pan gasket and get that bolted back on. New timing chain, tensioner and associated gaskets and seals and I can put that cover back on.
Was going to bring the frame to the powdercoaters today, but we're in the middle of a blizzard so I'm only venturing out to run the snowblower and all that fun stuff. :P
-
When you put on those screws for the oil pan, this is the kind of tool you want, or a screwdriver-type socket holder. Not too much torque!
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pbase.com%2Ftomfarr%2Fimage%2F133748884.jpg&hash=c62df8ffc0994c89a054f073554a19be1b527f05)
-
Thanks for the tip, Rob. Do you suggest any sealant, or just the dry gasket?
-
Al,
Before, before, BEFORE, BEFORE you remove the chain, rotate the cam sprocket, da one on da bottom, so that the dimple you see in your pics that's now near the 6 o'clock position is exactly at the 12 o'clock High Noon position.
Then, clean off the crankshaft sprocket tooth that is adjacent to and at the exact 6 o'clock position. Paint it white.
You will more than likely roll the crank, cam, or both out of time as you replace the timing chain and assorted bits. Helpful to back way off on the valve lash so that the pressure on the cam lobe/s does not aid in rotating the cam.
Why do this you might ask? There is a tiny little scratch mark on the crankshaft sprocket that is used to time the cam and crank. Unfortunately, the crank bearing hides it! German engineering, eh? The concern is driving a piston into a valve if the timing is in error, Another reason to back well off on the valve lash.
When the chain is on and the marks are aligned, Reset the valve lash. With sparkle plugs out, rotate the engine by hand very slowly as you feel for any valve-to-piston contact. No contact? Ya done good.
I have posted a complete R65 timing chain replacement photo essay in the Photo Gallery. It may be of some assistance to you.
-
And regarding the oil pan gasket... Rob's advice will help you to avoid stripping the threads in the aluminum-threaded engine cases by over-tightening the steel-threaded bolts. That's spelling strip using multiple $$$ signs.
There should be no need to use a gasket sealant. When stationary, the oil level is below the gasket. It's those danged pushrod tube seals that are often cuss-worthy. Do confirm bolt "snugness" after a couple hundred miles as the rather thick gasket may compress just a tiny bit.
-
Awesome, thanks for all the tips Monte! :)
-
Any suggestions for how to pretty up my starter? It works, and I know it's gonna be hidden, but I'd like to do something about the looks of it
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN1040_zpsb9c1e457.jpg&hash=298ef47033249d664a9c5cdc58c0ad7a82eefe64) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN1040_zpsb9c1e457.jpg.html)
I have "Rust Reformer" paint but that says a maximum temp of 200F, so that wouldn't work would it?
-
There are high temp paints in the hardware store. Even BBQ paint, if you so desire.
I suppose a quick wipe down with sandpaper/wire wheel, cover the contacts and the gear opening, and go for it!
(I could be wrong!)
-
I offer this suggestion with a smile :) so hope you take this in the spirit offered...
Since the starter is off, take it apart and IRAN that thing. Euro Motoelectrics offers very reasonably priced overhaul kits that will keep your starter, well, starting.
Then you can paint it, powder coat, or rub n' buff to your heart's content.
What's that old saying? "Chrome won't get you home" ;D
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/
-
My first thought was the easy way out- wire brush the worst of the rust off then "rust reformer". But since that stuff doesn't take the heat I'll need to use real paint, which means getting it down to bare metal.
Media blasting would be much easier than wire brush... Does it come apart to the point where I can put it in the blaster cabinet?
Monte- "IRAN"????
-
Monte- "IRAN"????
I'm afraid to ask. It sounds violent.
Oh - sandblast, as in "a sandstorm"...
-
Oh! ;D
-
Inspect and Replace (sometimes stated as Repair) As Necessary
Term often found within the aviation and military occupations.
-
Got it. I guess I'll tear into it.
-
Considering the apparent condition of the bike, I think a starter rebuild is warrented.
-
What're you trying to say, Rob? ;)
-
Uh - "Not always garaged"?
-
These posts always make me jealous in other resto threads:
Parts back from the powdercoater!
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN1130_zps486fa334.jpg&hash=5f810abdd133e429199714b1f342bc0ff117c2f5) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN1130_zps486fa334.jpg.html)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN1143_zps33c397b8.jpg&hash=e8cb3102f43665b407b1397f0f437d7b4ecb7418) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN1143_zps33c397b8.jpg.html)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN1141_zps49fa7ba2.jpg&hash=320b9afe8ab46fa71d8bda1f1e2a1a0a74e49e4e) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN1141_zps49fa7ba2.jpg.html)
-
I now have a rolling chassis. Yay me! ;D [smiley=clap.gif]
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN1191_zpsc57fc788.jpg&hash=d1f64b9953bad50aae1099ce4e8347483a4202b9) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN1191_zpsc57fc788.jpg.html)
-
Just like Christmas! Good on ya, Al.
A roll or two of blue painter's tape would be a cheap investment in protecting chassis members as you continue to install parts; especially big parts like the engine and transmission. Murphy's Law says a dropped wrench will chip the powder coat in the most highly visible spot on your restored beauty.
I hate it when that happens. :-[
-
Good call, Monte. Sounds like you speak from experience. :(
I have some 1/16" rubber roofing material I was gonna wrap the frame tubes in whilst installing the engine and tranny, but a little earlier prophylactic coverage makes good sense. ;)
-
I offer this suggestion with a smile :) so hope you take this in the spirit offered...
Since the starter is off, take it apart and IRAN that thing.
One starter. IRAN'd. :)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN1196_zps73d22f80.jpg&hash=01f07c1066133f2fa50bae62f515f9a332fd74e1) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN1196_zps73d22f80.jpg.html)
-
This is looking real nice Al,
Can't wait to see the finished item
-
You and me both, Chris! :D
-
I offer this suggestion with a smile :) so hope you take this in the spirit offered...
Since the starter is off, take it apart and IRAN that thing.
One starter. IRAN'd. :)
Another one for you, Al. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Now you know the inner workings of your starter and saved some money to boot. Let's see... what shall we spend it on?
-
and saved some money to boot. Let's see... what shall we spend it on?
I just got a quote of $400 for paint :-/
-
Four-hundred smackers? Al, If you have a compressor and gun, materials will cost less than a C-note. Your local auto body supplier will assist in materials selection. Remember, it's just paint. Wet sanding can fix danged near any flaw.
My '83 R65: From tatty-ratty to sparkle plenty for <$100.00 plus plenty elbow grease.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FSpringClampHandle.jpg&hash=9f3191fcc8dac0b6335f71e4a679dc858c8c0528) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/montmil/media/BMW%20R65/SpringClampHandle.jpg.html)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2F83exhaust02a.jpg&hash=686486ede5f3438fb6337159ab7096761d5ba3e4) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/montmil/media/BMW%20R65/83exhaust02a.jpg.html)
-
Wow! I was just at the parts store looking at colors. I was thinking that I'd stick with something along the lines of the original burnt-orangeish. Then I started looking at blues. I like your color a lot!
I have a compressor, but no gun. I think the bigger obstacle might be that I have no heated space to do it in...
I'm gonna give it some more thought tho
-
The blue color on the '83 R65 was selected by my wife during a visit to Lone Star BMW-Triumph in Austin, Texas. I forget which brand-new BMW it was but my local auto body supply matched it to a late model Honda automobile. It is a light metallic. Silver stripes on the tank and seat tail piece.
Couple dual-bulb 1000W Halogen lamps positioned nearby will warm up a shop quite nicely. You might even get a New Hampshire winter tan!
Big box stores like Home Depot and Lowe's sell economical, off-shore copies of the classic Binks gun. I use one and find it more than adequate for motorcycle, two complete aircraft and Bengt Phorqs' R90 "S-style" fairing.
Moto Mongo ready to launch.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R90%2520S-fairing%2520install%2FMotoMonte.jpg&hash=00183d08092c1df37211ca766689cdeda84b7def) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/montmil/media/BMW%20R90%20S-fairing%20install/MotoMonte.jpg.html)
-
1Well, apparently my tank is too far gone to be worth fixing. I knew it was gonna take a fair amount of work, but I pretty much stuck it on the shelf until now. Between the crude welding on the patches and numerous dents and dings, it would be more work than makes sense. So I'm looking at eBay and resellers for a decent tank.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_20131010_164634_161_zps81ff37dc.jpg&hash=add8d4b293bea7222d1d8d91bacdc0df623f0ea0) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_20131010_164634_161_zps81ff37dc.jpg.html)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_20131010_164803_834_zps753ecab0.jpg&hash=5661a0dd933fb7de564347735e2f4524a69b545a) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_20131010_164803_834_zps753ecab0.jpg.html)
-
Good luck finding a decent tank for a reasonable price. IMO, the fixed priced ones are either too pricey or flawed. Every once in awhile you'll see one go up for auction, which gets a slightly lower price.
For example, this one seems like a good deal until you see the massive dents in the front - not sure what was velcro'd on the front. At least it's bilateral - maybe could blend in. Getting a dent out in the corner like that might prove to be tough...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-BMW-R65-R-65-80-90-Airhead-S314-1-gas-fuel-petrol-tank-/350982782981?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b8344005&vxp=mtr
-
I was eyeing that brown tank on eBay. But I called around and was referred to Josh at Parts Haus in CA. He has this tank he's sending me. $150 +Shipping. This is the "bad" side, he sent several pics and this is the only dent, he also says the lining looks very good.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_0008_zps7ca9e1ff.jpg&hash=46f73866a83bd155d95e466955fca75a01b1e510) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_0008_zps7ca9e1ff.jpg.html)
Monte, does that color look familiar? 8-)
-
... This is the "bad" side, he sent several pics and this is the only dent, he also says the lining looks very good.
Monte, does that color look familiar? 8-)
Check with a "paintless dent repair" shop. With the dent's location so close to the fuel filler opening, they should be able to remove it painlessly.
Might be close on the color, Al. Mine may be a bit darker and it's a metallic.
-
That's a great deal for that tank... I bet it pops out fairly easily. Nice find! Wish he had another one...
-
That's a great deal for that tank... I bet it pops out fairly easily. Nice find! Wish he had another one...
He does! He had three, this was the pick of the litter, but he said the second-best wasn't much worse. Give him a call if you're interested: Joshua 562-254-0452
-
I think I might just do that today, as long as no one beats me to it.
Thanks!
-
I think I've decided on a color:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=PPG%20PRLX4
Computer monitors can be very unpredictable in displaying colors, but in person this is a rich blue metallic. Me likey :D
-
Further progress... Engine & tranny installed, since this picture was taken I've connected the final drive, installed the boot and torqued the swing arm pivots.
Not too far from being able to wheel it outside and fire it up! :D
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FDSCN1221_zps0540f69c.jpg&hash=65be677ca4c6db53a5329ed18309f0e8c2bdc3e7) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/DSCN1221_zps0540f69c.jpg.html)
-
Today was a big day- I wheeled it out to the garage and started it!
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_20140328_094117447_HDR_zps0d546bdc.jpg&hash=3c94ad7ea28307e0f53d0d6da496f848ee64e227) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_20140328_094117447_HDR_zps0d546bdc.jpg.html)
The good news- it runs! And all the electricals work, the gen light goes out ~~1200RPM.
The bad news- it only idles, I give it any throttle and it just bogs.
Rebuilt carbs with new needle, needle jets, diaphragms, floats and float needles. Mixture screws 1/2 turn out.
-
After further review...
The left cylinder was only running intermittently. If I put my hand over the carb throat, it would bring it to life briefly. Turns out the idle jet is plugged, I swapped idle jets left-for-right and the problem moved to the right side. I soaked all the jets and blew them out as part of the rebuild, so now I'm going to buy new ones.
-
Good progress now! Got the carbs about 90% dialed in, been able take some test drives up and down the street. Still waiting for my painted parts...
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FIMG_20140409_152200239_zpsa7837efb.jpg&hash=cb37cb97e4f3c4d4308534ee0532fee2ab4e6c88) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/IMG_20140409_152200239_zpsa7837efb.jpg.html)
-
Congratulations. Now you have a bike that you have 'bonded' with and am now an expert on. Time to enjoy the riding season
Cheers
Rev light.
-
Whoot! [smiley=clap.gif]
-
This project is complete! I'm real happy with the way it turned out, and it's a really fun ride. :)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1350.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp763%2Facarey3%2FR65Finished_zps66ef8c88.jpg&hash=54e64a02eaa0c4cb9f7b8239dc740199ccb86b02) (http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/acarey3/media/R65Finished_zps66ef8c88.jpg.html)
-
Liking the reflections of the clouds in the fuel tank. Beautiful bike. [smiley=beer.gif]
-
Thanks Monte! And thanks to you and everyone here for all the help along the way. It's been a fun project.