The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => Restoration Progress Logs => Topic started by: Armen on April 11, 2013, 07:49:14 PM
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Bought the bike new in '79. Accident in '89. Off the road since (long story). Decided it was time to start the wake-up/rehab/tart-up.
First step was to pull it out from under where it was stored for 24 years, push it outside, and start the MANY hours of cleaning needed.
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Looks like a good starting point! What are your plans - rebuild, cafe etc etc?
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The bike was pretty well breathed on back in the day. I had done the San Jose braced swingarm, the CC Products fork brace, twin plugged, 30mm Dellortos, Breakwell and Greene stainless mufflers, kickstarter (sucktastic Bosch starter and small battery), lightweight wrist pins, balanced top end, balanced clutch/flywheel package, anti-vibe motor mounts, and God knows what else.
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For now, it's lots of cleaners and wax. Got the Enduralast hi-zoot alternator and groovier starter on. Crank trigger ignition is on back-order. 32mm round slide Mikunis are 1/2 way on (left done, right needs a different air horn). Kosman Specialties made a cast iron full floating rotor for it. Downsized the master to 12mm, rebuilding the stock ATE caliper while I figure out if a 4 pot conversion will happen. Have the factory cafe fairing going back on. Head temp and oil temp gauges are being tidied up (were on before).
I had installed the upgraded shift kit back then, as well as the later model longer (10mm) swingarm and rubberband driveshaft.
Trying to keep the list of changes short until I actually get it running. Have the factory cooler I took of my R100 when I put the oversized cooler on that bike. Bike already has the late model deep oil pan.
I made a set of San Jose style frame braces for the R100, and will make a set for this bike as well. HUGE difference in handling.
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Although the hunt is on for a 4 piston conversion (Ii bought a few calipers on Ebay yesterday), I'm putting the stock one of for now.
Had already bought the rebuild kit from Max's, so I figured I might as well.
Dismember, clean, brush, chase tap through the housing, etc.
Put the pistons in the lathe, polish with crocus cloth and WD-40.
Brembo brake grease, new stainless bolts, titanium bleeder. Wire wheel the nasties.
If nothing else, I'll use the used pads to scrape the rust off the cast iron rotor : )
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Brakes are done for now. New 12mm master, new steel braided line, rebuilt caliper and just installed and bled it all. It was a seriously great brake for 1979. haven't ridden it in 23 years. Wonder how it'll seem now?
: )
As I rolled it across the garage and finally had brakes to grab-I noticed a new problem. The front end won't compress at all. Stuck like it was full of cement. I was planning on changing the oil, but maybe more fun is in order...
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It's the little stuff : )
Caliper rebuild kit didn't come with allen bolts, so I used stainless ones. Originals were only grade 8.8, so the stainless are close enough. Got stainless hex bolts to mount to the fork leg and realized I didn't have stainless wave washers. Ordered a pack of those and now I'm done.
The new wiring harness showed up yesterday. It always annoyed me that there were connecters that went nowhere (under the tank). Blew up the wiring diagram 200% on the copier and am going at it with White-Out. When the crank trigger ignition shows up (backordered) and I see what leads I need, I'll cut back all the useless wiring on the harness and install.
Next project is deciding what to do with the forks. Have bids on a few sets on Ebay.
-Armen
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I cut my wiring harness down when I removed the indicators and accessory circuit from my Cafe Racer. Lost half the loom.
Though if I had my time again I would probably leave the indicators on : )
Good luck.
Rev. light
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Yup. I'll keep the turn signals.
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Got a note from EME that the backordered crank trigger ignition should ship next week. Thought about it and ordered a second one as a spare. If this had happened during riding season I'd be pretty cranky, and I'd rather eat my dog than go back to the stock ignition.
Fingers are crossed...
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Ordered new clutch and throttle cables. Called Max's when I couldn't find low bar cables listed on the site. The parts guy tried to convince me that ALL R65s in the US had high bars, including the LS models. Explained that I was working in a BMW dealer back then, and the LS models had low bars. No matter, he found the part numbers and I got new cables.
I made adapters so the 32mm Mikunis would mate up to the intake spigots without the wonky looking step that would occour if you just use a piece of radiator hose :-0
Couldn't figure out which air horns to use. I'd tossed the flat top Bings 30 years ago and mounted 30mm DelLortos. Who knows what air horns I used? And now I'm switching to the late style airbox. Took a chance and ordered air horns from the late style. Looks like I can use one for the right Mikuni. One of the horns I had laying around will work for the left.
'Just bolts on!"
Found a good used front end. It'll be here soon. Have multiple brake calipers to choose from. I'll run the rebuilt ATEs for now : )
later,
Armen
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Sounds like lots of progress.
Keep us updated.
And a picture of any significant change would be nice also.
Cheers
Rev. Light
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Front end arrived yesterday. I'll pull it apart this week.
Crank trigger ignition was shipped.
Later model R65 Brembo two pot caliper (Ebay) came this week.
4 pot caliper from R1100S also arrived.
I'll order rebuild kits for both and decide which one to use (later).
Still sorting out the crank breather hose issue. I had bought a later model airbox 20 years ago (not sure which model) and upgraded the crank vent to the one with the vertical hose outlet. The $28 crank breather hose for the late R65 I bought from Max's doesn't line up with the hole in the lower part of the airbox. I'll make something work.
I think one of the air horns I ordered will fit for the right Mikuni. Left is done.
Have to order some chrome moly tubing and start making the frame braces.
in my abundant spare time...
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Crank trigger (EME) ignition showed up. Parts keep coming. All I need is time...
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Wanted to do stainless bolts on the brake rotor. At first I was concerned that the stainless would be weaker. Looked at the stock bolts and they are grade 8.8. Checked the stainless hardware in the McMaster Carr, and although there is no hardness rating, the tensile strength was close enough. They didn't have exactly the right length, so I order the next longest and am trimming them down on the lathe.
Did a lot of head-scratching and calculating on the whole 4 piston conversion idea. If my math is correct, to obtain the same hydraulic ratio with the oilhead 36/32 4 pot unit as I have on my 12mm master/36mm two pot ATE, I'll need a 16mm master. Which is exactly what the twin disc R65s of that era used.
Two pot ATE for now, but I'll gather up the bits for the 4 pot conversion. Bought a very clean 4 pot 1100S caliper on Ebay for very cheap.
Its' a sickness, and I ain't looking for a cure...
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Working 7 days a week makes it tough to find time to putter : (
Not to mention commuting....
Have to call in dead one day and play with toys : )
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Bought a front axle assembly today on Ebay. Had bought a set of forks and triple trees last month, and a front wheel the month before.
Have a 4 pot caliper (36/32mm pistons) from a 2002 R1100S and an EBC rotor. Now I can dummy the whole thing up without having a beached whale in the garage.
As of now, the bike has a rebuilt ATE and a new 12.mm master.
Just got a 16mm master in the mail today that I'll use with the 4 pot if/when that happens.
Miles to go before I sleep...
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Weighed the stock rotor and the EBC. They both come in at around 4.5 lbs. Good if you want to beat to death a charging rhino, bad if you don't like unsprung weight.
I'll look into the ultralight EBC rotors for some other model bike and see if I can make adapters for one.
Today all I had time to do was attack the 25 years of oxidation and light pitting with a rag and some semichrome polish. Came out pretty nice.
I had the usual tear at 4 o'clock on the right hand gauge. Carefully Crazy Glued and clamped the break together. Tried a test fit today and it seems to hold. New gauge cover is something like $400!
Have the carbs dummied up. Just need the little alloy sleeves that go from the airbox to the top rubber sleeve.
Still never got the rusted gas cap to unscrew : (
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Ordered a digital scale that goes to about 8 lbs. Should be enough for all the brake pats. The one I use for engine parts only goes to 600G. Bloody rotor is over 4 lbs!
I'd put a VDO oil temp gauge on the bike in the early 80's to see how hot the bike was getting. It used a huge drain plug with a big oil temp sensor in the middle. Bought a used oil pan recently. TIG welded the inside of the pan to provide a bit more wall thickness, then drilled, spot-faced and tapped the side of the pan for the new (smaller) temp sender. Should make things tidier.
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One of those days. Pull the front cover. Try to install the bean can block off plate. Find the right size stainless allens and wave washers. Attempt to bolt up. Holes slightly off. Drill larger holes, anti-sieze the threads. done.
Original Powerlet style socket died. He, it was on the bike for over 30 years. attempt to install new one. Orig hole has flatted sides, new one is round. Dremel surgery. Can't get a wrench behind the whole mess to tighten the locknut. Remove top shock bolt and Powerlet assembly. tighten. Reinstall.
Eyeball new coil location. Find spool of copper core plug wire. And 5K NGK caps. Install caps and dummy up the lengths to approx where they'll go. Cut, zip tie, leave hanging.
Weigh original, EBC and another rotor on new digital scale. Approx 1600 grams each. EBC is actually slightly heavier. Insane.
Eyeball possible location for ignition brain box for new crank trigger ignition. Make mental notes about a mounting bracket.
Get hijacked by friend who is working on his R90S in my driveway. Help him put the coils on my coil tester. Check timing, twiddle carbs on 90S.
Go to Ital joint and consume mass quantities.
Another few hundred days like this, and the R65 will be done : )