The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => Restoration Progress Logs => Topic started by: Boxer_Bolshie on January 19, 2012, 10:39:14 PM
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Hey all!
This thread will be my "restoration journal" of the recent procurement of my 1984 R65 and other nick-knacks.
First I should state that I am a born again motorized rider. I say motorized because I am a cyclist as well as a tour cyclist and have ridden across Iowa, from Pitts to DC, ridden the inside passage (twice), circumnavigated the Salish Sea in three days and so on. "Born again" because I haven't owned a motorcycle (let alone ridden one) since about 1988 when I sold my Honda 550 four which I regretted 5 mins after the sale. Ever since, I've through, dreamt and pined for another (motor)bike. My wife btw said that I could get the R65 so long as I did not call it a "bike" while around her. she is also a hard core cyclist and cycling purist.
More about me here (www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1326393049)
Anyway since the snow dumped on the islands and my need to do something, I started working on the panniers that I got along with the bike (there I said it).
My first restoration:
Both cases had cracks in them but I took pics of the worse one and then proceeded to clean, plastic weld, de-rust, and repaint.
https://picasaweb.google.com/twodeadpoets/BMWPannierRestoration?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCK201riIiIeYZA&feat=directlink
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gR2ghKtKmQI/Txjr4WmHfJI/AAAAAAAAPow/m-ES8DD_Zg8/s800/DSC_0001%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oEjDEMGk9qU/Txjr5SoOJYI/AAAAAAAAPo0/kLPSbbDjNME/s800/DSC_0002%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Rh-jixzT4XI/Txjr6fpIOII/AAAAAAAAPo4/LOMHsCcPYnc/s800/DSC_0003%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6du2fqNUxsA/Txjr7XSdKvI/AAAAAAAAPo8/QXCw6AtFFk0/s800/DSC_0004%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kf78sRqJ_Sg/Txjr8J-JUtI/AAAAAAAAPpA/n-UWi2dT3EI/s800/DSC_0005%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hVTqHyDCH_U/Txjr9CaE9kI/AAAAAAAAPpE/XkNjsSVkctY/s800/DSC_0007%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8jTfNLrlh6g/Txjr923RdrI/AAAAAAAAPpI/rB9r4rRcCG0/s800/DSC_0008%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ira744Zp56Q/TxjsBJoUlRI/AAAAAAAAPpY/Vlj5TUevFag/s800/DSC_0012%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0eR93kSUCAs/Txjr_p3QAKI/AAAAAAAAPpQ/igu7b8X1ESY/s800/DSC_0010%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iu7WtKymvGk/TxjsCBmTy9I/AAAAAAAAPpc/O-nXt3ld5Y4/s800/DSC_0013%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
A little vinegar makes the rust go-way!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b4pXtJg58vs/TxjsAeu2noI/AAAAAAAAPpU/-WrzAFY3wac/s800/DSC_0011%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ypr1ZKbL2n8/TxjsC9q0WNI/AAAAAAAAPpg/FLTdxoUEZI0/s800/DSC_0014%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
Touch up with brass bristle brush
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LaoFIwVc14Y/TxjsDZ7F5tI/AAAAAAAAPpk/iTpX1RGfwG8/s800/DSC_0015%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dFBnWz6G5-Y/TxjsEP3tDaI/AAAAAAAAPpo/epZ-zYb2y3M/s800/DSC_0016%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
I"ll probably replace the old elastic traps and clips with webbing and plastic locking clips.
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So, how many pedal-powered bikes do you have?
Any mountain bikes in the mix?
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I use to have a Biachi SuperBee mnt bike but after breaking some ribs I quit that. Up until last summer I had six bikes but now I am down to about three after selling the mnt bike, parting one out and right now I'm in the process of cannibalizing my long bike to build my daughter one she can put her son in and ride with him around town.
My former mnt bike
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4sdrQ1cMySI/RfYXGHvQyrI/AAAAAAAAAl8/JDGE3UqBiPc/s800/IMG_0578.JPG)
The one I parted out:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-czZVzguc7go/SR_GPENfFCI/AAAAAAAAId0/vcbA8NEhMVI/s912/DSC_0018%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
The one I'm cannibalizing for my daughter's bike:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E11m77s-Uho/SQ49LZ8kzII/AAAAAAAAIVQ/CtO-iz1qFGY/s912/DSC_0006%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
My touring bike early in it's life (now an entirely different beast)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ObFkN29Evqg/SSXcFPRNVDI/AAAAAAAAIic/kX32UO9hazE/s800/DSCN1597%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qhrxIxelEGk/SMS72zXui1I/AAAAAAAAPWo/QBLjMYbYrKE/s800/DSCN1085%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
My "fast" bike (road)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8XWGUXHEQro/TGWFYTETHCI/AAAAAAAAMHU/937oxsEmUOU/s800/Right.JPG)
I don't have a pic of my commuter/gentleman's bike but I'll try to remember to take one for show and tell. I also have about four or five good frames I will someday build up.
Up until this last spring I owned a bike shop but had to sell my part so I could get spinal surgery last April which I am still recovering from.
Ye Ole Shop
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J00kkU4brFs/RfYXEnvQyqI/AAAAAAAAAl0/7zFDURlIzeg/s800/IMG_0577.JPG)
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[movedhere] Chit-Chat [move by] Justin B..
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Thanks Justin for the notice!
Today I got my first real purchase for the bike!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uY2WR3qxyao/TxoKa3s2zRI/AAAAAAAAPp8/t5bVgk4PA6U/s800/R65%252520Luftmeister%252520Crash%252520Bars02%252520%252528Medium%252529.JPG)
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Will anyone find me way back here in the drill down?
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I can't even find the "Restoration Progress Logs" thread from the forum's main page and wouldn't think of looking in the "Technical Discussion" page for it. Hmmm!
Today I think I'll start work on the free pudding helmet I got along with the bike "Bolshie." It was pretty dirty (can't believe I wore it to get Bolshie home) with what was left of the disintegrating liner. I plan to get another helmet later and will just keep this one around as an extra one to wear when I need to bash my head against the wall.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2nBeQkOPV5A/TxsikmkuPfI/AAAAAAAAPqI/uKGSw7Z3NHs/s800/DSC_0001%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
I also hope to get to the hardware store to get some screws for the pannier hinges and maybe just for kicks install the crash bars.
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Hopefully I have the access rights mask set properly now... [smiley=whistling.gif]
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We are up and running [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif] Thanks Justin D2
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Today I got my first real purchase for the bike!
And well-tested they appear to be!
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Helmet restore day
The original ear pieces were pretty groddy with the liner literally turning to dust every time they were touched and so I took the webbing out and went about making new ear flaps using REAL leather leftover from another project and fleece from an old Old Navy scarf.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GI16uK3nRs4/Tx3Bl8SnWeI/AAAAAAAAPrQ/eWTQvk__O8Y/s720/DSC_0002%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-osR64jqiNls/Tx3Bkf-KsYI/AAAAAAAAPrU/UV5gkwwvP2A/s720/DSC_0001%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
I tried and tried but could not get all of the scratches out of the helmet and so the helmet went from black to "chrome" which will hide the scratches bit better.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6XMYHxwvLwU/Tx3Blm5C7XI/AAAAAAAAPrU/cGCpGTc1zek/s720/DSC_0003%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
Monte, yea I was a little disappointed because the sale said nothing about any damage just that they had "usage." It wasn't until I took the pictures that I realized that there was some bronze welding where the tubing meets the bracket. There are also a couple of nice sized dents and deep scratches in them as well. I'm going to keep them and hope the seller will reimburse me something. Oh well I like fixing stuff (if that isn't obvious) anyway. My motto is if it ain't broken, make it better! ;)
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So all I need to do to the helmet now is to rivet the straps to the shell.
I other news, I tried to start the bike yesterday but couldn't get the sequence right before running the battery down. I picked up a NAPA brand battery tender but that did nothing and so had to borrow a portable jump pack to get is started. Then I parked it in my yard and left it running while I briefly left to take the pack back. Of course it wasn't still running when I got back. This confirms that the bike has trouble somewhere in the fuel delivery area. Either it needs the throttle cable adjusted or maybe the carbs or a clog are killing the engine somewhere.
Anyone have a good fuel system trouble shooting procedure for me?
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Hi Carl, My 1983 R65LS is loath to idle unless it has been running for a good while. Other than that it is very smooth throughout the rev. range. I have recently been going over my electronics and the wiring harness connectors giving everything a good cleaning and a film of diaelectric grease on connections. I found a crack in my coil which along with they tired state of the harness connections may contribute to poor idling. One of the real experts will need to offer their opinion on this but it can't hurt for you to give all of that your attention. The other thing is that a mechanic at my former employer told me that the NAPA tender needs at least 1 volt in the battery to work. My battery was DEAD but once I replace it the NAPA tender worked just fine. Your helmet is looking good [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif]D2
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Thanks Dave for the input. I am in the process of doing just what you recommended and finally washed it. Looking forward to anyone else's input. I do have hope though. There's an airhead guru on the island who I've only talked to a couple of three times and will be getting a hold of him hopefully soon.
Wasn't easy being green but green no more!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IY8mRx7ACVE/TyBsDmNTo1I/AAAAAAAAPr0/V8kF_8frKmc/s640/DSC_0003%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i7L4MhaQS14/TyBsCMH-ovI/AAAAAAAAPrc/KUkwqGpbEQY/s512/DSC_0002%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OV4tLi4F-BM/TyBsCslFIVI/AAAAAAAAPsc/yxA0BZgRkeI/s640/DSC_0004%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
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Oh and I also picked this up on the cheap to help me on my journeys. A Clymer book is also on it's way.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-owxwlSG8va4/TyBwsThPwTI/AAAAAAAAPsg/iOcKsl4vUO4/s512/DSC_0001%252520%252528Large%252529.JPG)
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HA! I thought my neutral switch wasn't working because I've never seen a light. Jumping the gun as I normally do I ordered one which just came in yesterday.... However, after cleaning the bike the light now WORKS! I'll keep the switch for now in case I bung it up during the restoration (which is a definite possibility).
I also took off the cluster cover and found a jungle of bee's nests and spider webs and nests as well.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-laksK7OP_7U/TyB6PjNOW7I/AAAAAAAAPs0/s8sdoGWuvAs/s800/IMAG0526%252520%252528Large%252529.jpg)
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The R65's charging system doesn't kick in until revs move beyond 2000 rpm or thereabouts. If you left the bike idling for a period of time, it was running solely on the battery which was not getting any help from the alternator. When the battery ran down, obviously the bike quit running.
Buy a Battery Tender for the scooter and keep it plugged in. Most all of us onboard here have a Tender or similar float charger.
Good score on the shop manual. The Haynes manual is pretty good but the addition of the Clymer book would give you the trifecta.
Monte
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Thanks Monte!
I noticed today that I had to keep the RPMs up to at least 1250 otherwise the generator light would start to flicker on and the engine would try to quit.
Today one of my parts came in. The starter switch to replace mine which has a broken toggle. I would have kept mine but it was difficult to switch on and off.
My broken unit
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TcM5Qp5c2dc/TxSYH-iWQvI/AAAAAAAAPns/4e7oPgB1hsM/s720/BMW%252520R65%252520Before%252520029.JPG)
New (used) unit
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ntgQeY_vze0/TyCserCrLRI/AAAAAAAAPtY/smz9e7HEIAo/s800/IMAG0527.jpg)
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Just road the bike back down to the barn in the dark... are exhaust headers supposed to glow? More specific, the right header side. Note that in my first set of pics in my introduction in the "Chit Chat" forum that, that is the side that one of the exhaust nuts isn't fully threaded on (I suppose I should take my special fancy new exhaust nut wrench to it to see if it's loose).
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This just in!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v2w2MCFCtnU/TyDYgkc18XI/AAAAAAAAPts/Srq3qwETPSM/s493/Taillight.jpg)
Off of eBay for $28 (incl ship)
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Anyone know of a good resource for a stainless steel nuts and bolts kit and full gasket and seal kit for our R65s?
I've searched eBay but all the kits are sorted for other airheads, sometimes mentioning that they "could" be used for other models. I just don't want to buy a bunch of bolts to find out I can only use half of them. Same with a gasket and seal kit.
Thanks!
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Carl,
I purchased a complete set of SS bolts from The Bolt Guy for the 81 R65. Great kit with individually marked bags. The few fitment issues I encountered were taken care of quickly with good response and communication.
http://www.theboltguy.com/
Rocky Point also supplies SS bolts.
http://www.theboltguy.com/
British Tools
http://www.theboltguy.com/
Mettec
http://store.mettec.com/category/s?keyword=ss+bolts
Bolt Depot
http://www.boltdepot.com/
My only experience with the SS bolt kits for the R65 is with The Bolt Guy. I found the product and owner very pleasurable to deal with. As a side note; I've had no problems at all with gauling or failures of any kind. No personal affiliation or business interest.
Here's a link to some photos of the set for the R65 I purchased.
http://tinyurl.com/6s638o9
-Mike V.
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Wow she cleaned up nicely 8-) D2
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Hi BB lovely looking bike. We have the same model although the last time I rebuild mine in "96 I put a set of R80 hi - bars on because I have a lower back problem. Best thing I did.
I want to ask about your panniers. I have a set on mine that are very tired looking and need lots of "Black Again" type polish to keep them looking good. You mention that you're repainting them. What process and paint are you using to achieve a good finish? I had consider respraying mine but was always unsure about whether or not even special paint would adhere well. Thanks ... Adrian
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Just road the bike back down to the barn in the dark... are exhaust headers supposed to glow? More specific, the right header side. Note that in my first set of pics in my introduction in the "Chit Chat" forum that, that is the side that one of the exhaust nuts isn't fully threaded on (I suppose I should take my special fancy new exhaust nut wrench to it to see if it's loose).
Perhaps while in storage a colony of gloworms has taken up residence? :D
No, the header pipes should not be glowing. Without further investigation, you really won't know for sure if the right side is running too rich or to lean. Either way, it's not good. Have you set the valve lash yet? Incorrect clearance can cause problems. Set exhaust at 0.008". Take a look at the condition of both sparkle plugs. Compare. And there is also the concern of exhaust valve recession...
About that partially unscrewed header nut. It may just not be screwed down all the way or it could be the curse of the buggered threads on the cylinder head exhaust spigot. Do not get overly aggressive with the exhaust nut wrench, aka: the Fugawee War Club. If the nut will not come off easily, you will need to saw it off to save the spigot threads and an expensive repair. One of the annual Airhead maintenance chores is to remove both exhaust nuts and apply a fresh smear of anti-seize compound.
IMHO, it may be time to do a full service on the bike; lubricants, spline lube at clutch and final drive, engine, carburetion, new tires... Catch the deferred maintenance issues before they catch you out.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FFugowieWarClub.jpg&hash=29fc4bb11ef0cdd10725a59437ee6de437580a46)
[size=14][size=12]Official tool of the Lost Tribe Racing Team... "Where the fugawee?"
[/size][/size]
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Thanks for the awesome help everyone!
Have been having some good luck lately as she's firing right up now though I still have to feather the choke for a couple of minutes and then just keep the revs up while riding which I've not done too much of yet.
Mike, I'll check out those sites and hopefully order a set today.
Adrien, I'm up and down about weather to paint them or not. If I do I would clean them well with denatured alcohol and then prep them with adhesive promoter. Then use flexible parts primer (plastic primer) and then adhesive promoter again before a series of three coats of black plastic (or bumper black) paint and a couple coats of clear coat.
Monte, I'll check the nut to see if it easily comes off and put some anti-seize on them. Then I'll check the plugs and valve lash. What am I looking for with exhaust valve recession?
I'm pretty positive I need to do a full service lube job and have that in my TODO list along with the rebuild. My list has been growing and evolving as I learn more and more about the bike and the do's and don'ts.
A FEW QUESTIONS
I'm not sure I like the low (Euro) bars and will be looking for a set a little higher. Something comfortable for a middle aged man for commuting and light tours. Anyone have any good recommendations?
Does anyone have a good source for a good full gasket & hose kit?
We have a LOT of gravel roads here and most of the paving is chip seal. As a result I'm going to need some good tires for rough and loose road conditions. I discovered the ones in the below pics but don't have a brand and model on them. Anyone have any info on these or if I should forgo them in favour of better rubber? I do want to get wider wheels including a 120mm rear.
Is there another model with a bigger fuel tank which would fit on our R65? I'm thinking for touring purposes.
What are y'alls thoughts on running a 40mm carb set?
Here is what I have so far which as either came with the bike or parts I've ordered and received so far for Bolshie (not sure I like naming vehicles):
Oil filters
New centre stand (mine is pretty buggered up)
Side stand tension springs
Braced swingarm
Brash bars
Exhaust nut set (with wrench)
Head cover gasket set
Right caliper (will order rotor as soon as a good deal come through and I have the extra cash)
Front brake switch
Choke cable
Taillight
Trunk rack
Things I got with the bike I probably wont use and will be up for sale or trade (if anyone is interested):
NOS foot peg covers
Fork reflectors for non R65 (maybe the R100?)
Neutral switch with crush washer
And a few other bolts and washers that I haven't IDed yet.
Things I need and will be looking for a deal on:
Battery Tender (brandname)
Muffler guards (one of the panniers had some plastic stuff melt on the inside)
SS nut and bolt kit as mentioned
Gasket and hose sets as mentioned
Fork and shock rebuild kits and progressive springs
Carb rebuild kit
Good comfy (but not foam) grips (heated preferably)
Higher handlebars as mentioned
Original tool kit
Double seat foam in good to excellent condition
OEM rotor as mentioned (matching my left Brembo rotor)
Brake pads (front and rear)
Better mirrors (anyone have any recommendations?)
Badging especially the cluster badge
Brown side stand
Some things I will be doing later are:
R90 voltmeter
Fairing
Corbin double touring seat
Aux lighting
R80 heads
I heard there's a better and lighter starter out there
H4 Xenon or Halogen headlamp
LED taillight replacement
LED running lights (LiteBuddys and Run-N-Lites)
This list is not complete but feel free to comment on what I have so far.
Thanks again!
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I think I answered my question on the tires. I think they are Pirelli MT 90 Scorpion A/T Enduros
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I'm not sure I like the low (Euro) bars and will be looking for a set a little higher. Something comfortable for a middle aged man for commuting and light tours. Anyone have any good recommendations?
Flanders makes bar for BMW which are good quality. I bought my Flanders (Euro Low) bars from http://www.sidestreetcycles.com They mostly have Harley stuff but they have a section of European/BMW bars. D2
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MY ADD is really showing ::) Make that http://www.sideroadcycles.com
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Hey anyone!
Just started a new blog on this project. I will continue to update my progress but the blog will hopefully have more detailed info as I go along.
http://www.twosr65twin.com
I also got a few more parts in
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WukYZ3_S2bQ/TyeNsDgJPSI/AAAAAAAAPvw/w1W4FIBNSgY/s800/IMAG0531.jpg)
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Hey Carl, by any chance did you get the reinforced swing arm on ebay for $86.00? If so you outbid me at the end of the auction [smiley=beerchug.gif] I Hope it works out well for you, I'll check out your blog site. Cheers. D2
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Carl, did you get any instructions with the copper head gaskets ?
If you didn't, you need to anneal them before installing them .
Not a difficult process, you just need to heat them up with a propane torch, until they turn kind of a rainbow color, you'll know it when it happens.
You need to do this whenever you remove the heads, hopefully you won't be doing it frequently !!!!!
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DOH! Sorry Dave! In fact that's what I'm here today about. So I almost got a set of swingarm bearings but when I spoke to an online parts guy, he said I needed the sealed ones for my '84 however the few websites that say anything about which ones I need, usually suggest that the older open ones are stock with my bike. And then reading Snowbum's site, he says that (with regular maintenance) that the open are preferred but that the sealed are okay too... So does anyone have any input in this (and maybe part numbers?)
Thanks!
Also thanks Bob for the info on the gaskets. I don't remember seeing anything about annealing them but will go back to see if I missed it.
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Okay so after quite a bit of research and reading, the best guess (this site) on a swingarm bearing set part number for my '84 is 32203R. Even RealOEM doesn't list it!
The only problem is that I cannot find a set for sale anywhere (unless I buy them en bulk... direct from China)!
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If you look at the RealOEM page here .
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0364&mospid=51897&btnr=33_0624&hg=33&fg=20
Item #6 is the bearing .
In the verbiage section, it gives the dimension and number of roller bearings in the bearing (40x17x14) , that's all you really need, most auto parts stores should be able to get these for you, they are not an uncommon size .
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I believe that I have the information for your swing arm bearings 8-) BMW Part# 33 17 1 241 546. The bearing package comes with the plastic spacer thing. I entered that number into RealOEM with your estimated date of manufacture (Jan. 1984) and it matched. These are the same bearing that go into mine. When I could not find the correct number, Ian, the parts man at Streetcycles, found correct bearings for me. (they ain't giving them away :o) BTW When I was cleaning the original set of bearings I used compressed air to dry them...I found that by sticking the bearing on my finger and hitting it with compressed air I could get those bearings spinning wicked fast, until the whole bearing spun/burst apart and those tapered bearings were launched into a low garage orbit [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif]D2
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What am I looking for with exhaust valve recession? Keep a weather eye on the exhaust valve lash. If the clearance closes up, that's an indication.
A FEW QUESTIONS[/b
Does anyone have a good source for a good full gasket & hose kit? Check out Motobins in the UK. Good selection and prices. http://www.motobins.co.uk/
I do want to get wider wheels including a 120mm rear. Do you mean wider tires? A 120 will fit but may rub the swingarm. Requires deflation, and possible rear shock detach, to remove the rear wheel. I had on on the '81. Hated it.
What are y'alls thoughts on running a 40mm carb set? Why?
Here is what I have so far which as either came with the bike or parts I've ordered and received so far for Bolshie (not sure I like naming vehicles):
Oil filters The "bendy" hinged filters are less prone to collapse and are easier to install.
New centre stand Be sure to get one with the "square" foot pad.
Exhaust nut set (with wrench) If these came with the bike, thinking PO has buggered the threads on the head/s. uh oh.
Right caliper (will order rotor as soon as a good deal come through and I have the extra cash) Plan to replace the brake master cylinder with the proper size for twin discs.
Things I need and will be looking for a deal on:
SS nut and bolt kit as mentioned Check Motobins
Fork and shock rebuild kits and progressive springs Your Boge rear shocks are not rebuildable. progressive front fork springs haven't gotten good reviews around here.
Carb rebuild kit Buy only original Bing diaphragms.
Good comfy (but not foam) grips (heated preferably) Hot grips and extra lights=charging system upgrades.
Original tool kit Build your own and save mucho cash.
OEM rotor as mentioned (matching my left Brembo rotor) Plus caliper and hoses, junction block, etc.
Brake pads (front and rear) Shoes in the rear. LS model has a different size that doesn't fit. Confirm correct part number.
Better mirrors (anyone have any recommendations?) On an R65, they'll need to be tall and wide to clear elbows and arm pits.
Brown side stand Surefoot is another good replacement choice.
Some things I will be doing later are:
Corbin double touring seat R65s are a hoot touring solo. With two peeps and all the accessories you're planning, the little guy is going to be crowded and performance strained, IMO.
Aux lighting see heated grips...
R80 heads Why?
I heard there's a better and lighter starter out there Lighter, perhaps. Better than the Bosch, well, it'll take a lotta cash. Check with Rick Jones at http://www.motoelekt.com/index.html
H4 Xenon or Halogen headlamp Check and see what you have in there right now. Could be a 60/55 H4 halogen...
LED taillight replacement Taillight OK. Maybe not so good for the brake lamp.
LED running lights (LiteBuddys and Run-N-Lites) Going for that that Harley look, eh ;D
This list is not complete but feel free to comment on what I have so far.
Monte
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Nice comments Monte. I know that I as I got further and further in disassembling my LS I realised that I had to start setting some priorities in terms of what I needed to bring it back to sound mechanical/electrical condition and decent looks VS things that were not necessary for that goal. I realised that the bike is what it is and that is now fine with me. I was hot to do this and that, you know, more power, custom fabrication, trick exhaust (Well I did get those short megaphones ::)). $$$$$$$. So for my [smiley=2cents.gif] don't worry about a second disk brake, or engine modifications. It sounds like your list of essentials is growing just to bring it up to good working order. Lots of Fun! D2
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Thanks Bob, Dave, and Monte!
I do plan to upgrade the electrical as I live in an area with next to no street lights and a serious over population of deer and so need the lighting. As for heated grips, I promised my wife (so I could get the bike) that I would ride... a lot including cold (but dry) days and so I'm going to need them!
I thought I saw somewhere that adding larger carbs showed power gains and I thought that if I was going to consider R80 heads, I might want more fuel delivery. My reasoning for power upgrades has to do with your comment (Monte) about touring with two people and gear. I am definitely not looking for speed as much as I am looking for power for loads.
No Harley's please! :P The Lite Buddys I saw are a reflector insert with has LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. You get to keep your OEM signals.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.run-n-lites.com%2Fimages%2FAirCooledR.gif&hash=91618e5ce337ad32457312e1fc9d5b8cd4591a28)
Run-n-Lites are an additional light system which also fits into the OEM turn signal and allows for your signal lights also become marker lights. I wasn't too impressed with the lighting on the bike and would like to be seen.
Thanks all for the great information. This is a learning process for me and so this list WILL evolve. I am not into bling, or speed, or unnecessary equipment however, I do have somewhat of a vision of what kind of utility which is necessary for my needs to be met.
Cheers!
OH and this is what I did today! 8-)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DuNXH8qpjLs/Tyn0XOkSDSI/AAAAAAAAPwY/akiLWTAI9AI/s912/IMAG0538%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9jAoGjWRrI0/Tyn0WZTeNFI/AAAAAAAAPwQ/asY3mfD9L68/s912/IMAG0542%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Great picture BB and I thought my bike was in bad condition. I'm finally back tinkering with mine again after a few weeks of yet more illness. I hope you're having as much fun with your resto as I'm having with mine. Keep up with the piks mate its great to see the work of others. Adrian .....
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Carl, Have you confirmed that R80 heads will even fit the R65? They do have different part numbers.
The 40mm Bings are no guarantee of more power. You'll still be pumping 650cc's of air so the 40's would doubtless need smaller jets. After extensive and careful jetting and slide experimentation, you might get your performance level right up there with that of a pair of properly tuned 32mike-mikes. [smiley=2cents.gif]
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Thanks again!
I consider it an intellectual shake down for me when I post ideas so I can get appropriate critiques. It helps me separate fact from fiction.
Anywhosit!
I'm not exactly sure about the R80 heads but it is one of the power mods I've read somewhere about. I've heard that CC/San Jose use to sell a kit for this mod but I haven't found anything on their site. I've also heard that you would have to cut the R80 heads down because of the clearances. Regardless, I will make sure whatever I do is thoroughly researched and thought through.... tis why I'm here! :)
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Just ordered a ss bolt kit from TheBoltGuy.com (thanks Mike V)!
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CC Products/ San Jose BMW and now defunct Luftmeister, had kits for either 800 or 850 cc upgrade for the R65 .
From what has been put into print, the lower end of the engine lasted about 10,000 miles at best with this conversion .
Most owners regretted doing the upgrade, most of them said, if you wanted a faster motorcycle than an R65, buy one, don't mess with 'improving' a stock engine .
There have been a few 'Frankenbike' R65's with 800 or 1000 cc engines installed .
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Regardless, I will make sure whatever I do is thoroughly researched and thought through.... tis why I'm here!
[smiley=beerchug.gif] We will enjoy your ride. D2
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Today I wasn't able to do much because of three meetings, one physical therapy appointment, and of course work. However, the major components I was able to remove where wheels and final drive.
What's left of the bike is now hanging from the rafters and I will hopefully finish stripping the main frame tomorrow (which is connected to the following questions).
My questions are:
1) What sized Allen wrench fits the fork crown?
I completely loosened the exhaust nuts free from the threads, then unbolted the four Allen screws on the support flange toward the muffler tips, lastly I unbolted the large bolt with bracket midway and near the centre stand. Exhaust seems loose but isn't disconnecting from the threaded head connections.
2) What do I have to do to knock the exhaust system off?
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Yesterday I worked on trying to remove the exhaust but after unbolting it from the frame and removing the exhaust nuts (which were much uglier than I had thought) I just couldn't wiggle it free from the heads.
Fukard up nuts and threads
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kE9fw8s0mLU/TyvqUzrkcxI/AAAAAAAAPxQ/IexelmL6iSs/s512/IMAG0546%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VKH5i2TVZ5s/TyvqVSrG7MI/AAAAAAAAPxY/PAXV9gQ3TWE/s512/IMAG0547%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
But as I mentioned I was able to remove the final drive and of course found more spider webs
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SBVH1e6JXog/TyvqV4-YKxI/AAAAAAAAPxg/CjxoZ0273Mw/s512/IMAG0548%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Oh, those are nasty threads for sure, Carl.
Perhaps some possibility for recovery. Did you not mention you had some spare exhaust nuts?
I might suggest using small jewelers files to attempt a partial clean up of the boogered threads close to the exhaust opening. Next, apply some valve grinding/lapping compound onto the stub threads and a touch on the threads of a good exhaust nut. See where we're going with this?
Gently work the exhaust nut onto the stub and make small small back and forth rotations. Maybe remove the nut and reapply fresh compound all around. There appears to be enough good threads remaining on the stub to secure the exhaust header in place.
This technique has been done before. Often, a new pair of header nuts must be factored into the repair costs. It certainly worked on one of my R65s. The header nut should spin freely the length of the threaded stub.
Good luck, Carl. Keep us in the info loop.
Monte "If it ain't broke yet, we can fix that."
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Thanks Monte. I fortunately do have a set of new rings that came in the sale of the bike and so will use those in the final build. The nut with damaged threads will go in the garbage and I will use the one with good threads to use with your suggested technique. When I was rebuilding my Subaru's engine I had to use a similar technique to fix the threads on the EGR valve.
Oh and I figure out what sized hex/Allen wrench I needed for the fork crown (10mm)
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I so freaking hurt but I got the engine and gearbox (kinda) out! The tach is still connected to the gearbox with the cable running through the fork head which is too small to slide the tach through and so I am about to read more of the manual to figure out how to disconnect it from the gearbox.
Alls I have left to do is the shifter pedal and foot rest, the brake pedal, one of the forks and the steering head (in the bicycle world we call this the fork crown so forgive me if I say that ever), and finally the swingarm. All which I should be able to do tomorrow.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JjkXmxKZIvc/TyysBf08uLI/AAAAAAAAPxw/0KcvdB1pUIU/s800/IMAG0552%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
I also got the centre stand in... Eventhough is was listed as used, it looks pretty new to me!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-62bqhmfaC_0/TyysBFNl8DI/AAAAAAAAPxo/pYZdprEYEzA/s800/IMAG0550%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Hey Carl you are moving right along! Your Bolshie will sure be happy with all the work you are doing. I striped my frame down before I removed the Engine/Transmission, and it was a beast getting them out. When I put mine back together again I will have the wheels on. I think it will provide a more stable "platform" to wrestle the engine back into the frame. Any thoughts out there about this? I spoke with a couple more autobody guys about painting my LS. I continue to get "I really don't like to paint motorcycles, but I will" The only guy who actually had a business painting motorcycles got out of it last year. He said the cost of materials has gone up so much he couldn't charge enough (In Downeast Maine) to make a living :-[ Monday I will take all the parts to be painted to 2 or 3 shops and get estimates, and i hope a better sense of their work. BTW your new center stand does look new, good find [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif] D2
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I had planned to strip it down keeping the wheels and centre stand on until very last but it just didn't turn out that way. Some parts just didn't want to be separated from their home and are still clinging to it LOL!
And for the same reasons as you Dave, I plan to build it back up on it's wheels and "new" centre stand.
BTW I got the stand on eBay for $50 (plus ship)! Can you believe that! Especially when the rest of them were in worse shape and cost more!
Fortunately for me I have a friend who builds high end bicycles as a hobby (you can't make money as a hand builder) and has his own powder coating and oven system. His first motorcycle was in 1984 and was a new R65, so he's familiar with mine. He now has a couple of Ducatis and a KTM400 enduro and all this on a teacher's salary... and a few Trust dollars!
He'll do my frame parts while another guy on the island who restores and paints classic and vintage cars will do my painted parts (eg tank and fenders) which will be my big expense.
Speaking of painting; I know the LS had black painted rims, what do you all think of that and what is your opinion of originally non painted wheels getting painted or powder coated?
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Speaking of painting; I know the LS had black painted rims, what do you all think of that and what is your opinion of originally non painted wheels getting painted or powder coated?
I'm not aware that the LS came with black wheels, only white with the Henna Red or silver/gray with the other colors. I'm sure one of our brethren will correct me on this point. Anyway my wheels were pretty badly oxidized in spots. The photo just shows a patch of it on the lower right side of the photo. So I have decided to go with sand blasted and then powder coated wheels. As for the color I'm having him match the color of my fork slider. So the wheels and all frame related items will be the same color. I'm thinking Bultaco with the body Yellow 8-) except for the rear fender and the dash panel which will remain Black. D2
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Carl, if you have removed the bolt securing the negative (-) battery cable to the transmission, you should be able to work the tach cable out. Perhaps a bit of corrosion is hindering the removal. Try a shot of PB Blaster or similar. Jiggle the cable a bit while gently pulling up and out. It's a snug fit into the gearbox opening.
Monte
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Monte, yea I finally stopped being lazy and read my manual! DUH ::)
So finally I am down to the frame after picking up a 27mm and grinding it down on my grinder.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GAJwe_KwqLw/Ty3JuKznM3I/AAAAAAAAP0A/u86stR9nnaE/s512/IMAG0557%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
So here is today's progress in a collage.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5ILG_DQJD_M/Ty3IDjAf_EI/AAAAAAAAPzw/5e1ZIOiFvug/s640/Teardown.jpg)
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So I'm vacillating between having the tank and other painted but non frame parts painted their original black or another colour or colour scheme. I'd love a chance to make this my customized paint job but it also depends on cost. I love vintage colours and so if anyone has any suggestions and or pictures I'd LOVE recommendations!
Thanks in advance! :-*
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Almost ready for the powdercoater!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2CLTMugqe0g/Ty8ll0LJg4I/AAAAAAAAP0Q/k2XQ4nFX8qk/s800/IMAG0562%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Talk with your power coat jobber. You need to seal all the surface areas where bearing races will be installed. Remember, too, that the main frame grounding point "won't" if it's p'coated. You need bare metal. Same with other grounding points -and the Airheads have several. A thread chaser, in correct sizes, will be handy to have where the powder coating may need to be removed.
Better keep that frame warm n' dry in the house. I think I can hear sub-atomic rust particles forming right now...
BTW, Airheads did not have gloss black frames but that's no matter unless you plan on building a one-hundred point bike.
Monte
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Oh it's inside all warm and cuddly next to the bed so every time I wake up, it'll be the first thing I see in the morning! ;)
So when you say that "Airheads did not have gloss black frames," were they flat black or satin? I'm not planing to restore it back to it's original self and in fact hope to updated it with components considered a good upgrade.
Which brings me to my next question, I plan to add some gusseting and lateral cross bracing but can anyone suggest bosses and brackets to tack onto the frame that I might need?
Here's an example of the bracing I'm planing on welding up.
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I've been following this thread and am enjoying it very much.
I am also restoring an '82 LS and your posts are very helpful. Many thanks!!
Looking at the picture of the frame with the brace, tt appears that it might interfere with the gas tank and maybe the intake manifolds.
Best,
Ed
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Hi guys some very interesting fotos. My resto is still progressing but slowly. With regards to replacing the engine and gearbox I can - from experience - recommend that you have the bike back on its wheels before attempting this. I also had my centre stand fitted - it was a much more stable platform to work with. I now have a bike lifter that is hydraulic and lets the bike rest on its frame so it can be lifted up about 50 cms or so. It has made a huge difference when servicing so its gonna be a big help when I eentually reinstall the motor. Don't forget to protect all the paintwork with wrap around old cloth like old towels. No matter how careful you are Murphy's Law will always find a way to put a big scratch on yer new paint job.
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I also had my centre stand fitted - it was a much more stable platform to work with
Thanks for the info, I had not thought about having the center stand on before replacing the engine into the frame. Considering what a difficult time I had removing the engine I am worried about dinging the frame, but hopefully with the frame stable I will manage OK. D2
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Those removable diagonal frame braces bring back memories of British rider Reg Pridmore and his Butler & Smith prepared BMW R90S which won the first ever US AMA Superbike championship in 1976.
Those diagonals actually passed through openings cut into the velocity stacks on the R90S' Dell'orto carbs. Also note the fairing stays welded to the frame braces.
Can't see them as being beneficial on a two-up, touring laden, bagger R65, IMO. However, the Rev. Light might look bloody good dressed with such.
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Yea, after posting the pic I started thinking that the diagonal braces might not do much for me unless I was going to race which I am most definitely NOT going to be doing! Still I hope to weld some gussets for more stability.
Here's how rusty the subframe was
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7EFqCj3mkbQ/TzMgXRcTF4I/AAAAAAAAP0s/3zw1-U9woqU/s576/IMAG0563%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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As my scrubbed parts bin is filling up I still have a couple of things left undone including divorcing the swingarm from the driveshaft and pressing the steertube from the bottom tree bracket.
The steertube has to be heated up and then pressed out using a hydraulic press [sarcasm]like the one I used to keep in my hip pocket until just a few weeks ago[/sarcasm] while the drive shaft is proving to be a bit more of a challenge. I have two manuals which both say that R65s after 1980 use a nut which secures the shaft splines and prior to that they were under tension from a spring which had to be compressed. However, my 1984 R65's driveshaft does not have a nut but what looks like the tension type fittings (and the VIN# on the swingarm matches the rest of the bike). I'm thinking I've misread...
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The driveshaft needs to be compressed with a tool that looks like a Mcpherson strut compressor .
Once it's compressed, you'll find a circlip exposed at the final drive end .
Remove the clip, let the spring extend until it's 'unloaded' and the driveshaft will come apart so you can remove it from the swingarm housing .
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...and pressing the steertube from the bottom tree bracket.
Why are you doing this?
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...and pressing the steertube from the bottom tree bracket.
Why are you doing this?
So I can get the chewed up race off. It's pressed in with the stem.
Mein "neu" alt voltmeter
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1BJ7_f6TsMU/TzwapJva7EI/AAAAAAAAP10/DJVYP8nrr1M/s576/IMAG0577-1-1.jpg)
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Use a Dremel and a cut-off wheel to remove the bodged outer race. Leave the stem and lower triple clamp in sito. Remove and attempt a stem replacement at your peril.
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Use a Dremel and a cut-off wheel to remove the bodged outer race. Leave the stem and lower triple clamp in sito. Remove and attempt a stem replacement at your peril.
Thanks Monte for the heads up! I'll give it the Dremel treatment before anything else!
Today I ran into my first bump in the road or should I say toast in the road!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VoRl8GZH074/Tzwl46vHjfI/AAAAAAAAP4A/b5o8A0qrjro/s912/DSC_0001%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V6jl_ZhD6U8/Tzwl2UMysdI/AAAAAAAAP3o/pZcz5jxtm8c/s912/DSC_0006%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XJKdFked3Dw/Tzwl4A2PWBI/AAAAAAAAP3w/wK6TAhiNWVw/s912/DSC_0005%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wkeeOI-2-UE/Tzwl1g-83xI/AAAAAAAAP3g/AC-B-e5_IJE/s912/DSC_0003%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Bcvy1yMQ9Zo/Tzwl1rA-KvI/AAAAAAAAP3c/wBxNqmNIzh4/s912/DSC_0002%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k8KG6bKR-po/Tzwl0RdKpYI/AAAAAAAAP3M/Kuz1vA1am88/s912/DSC_0004%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zvq4-Ijo1QA/Tzwl4JYGQbI/AAAAAAAAP34/PQOS-l6R6R8/s576/DSC_0007%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nfg4hROCWPE/TzwlxIznRCI/AAAAAAAAP3I/yoFvEnSFnAM/s912/DSC_0008%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
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Hello, eBay
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You'll do well to restore that seat base. It will need a wizard welder. I wouldn't know where to start.
I don't know what the original paint finish was on the seat pans but they are certainly prone to rust. No undercoat was used of any description. When I re-covered my seat I was lucky and only found minor rust. After painting properly I was sure to apply lots of seam sealer to the stitching on the inside of the new cover.
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The seat pan is definitely NOT weldable as it's about 80% rust with large flakes easily flying off with my pneumatic blower nozzle. I won't even entertain the thought of using my grinder on it as there would be nothing left in just a few seconds. Even my wife who knows nothing of metallurgy said it was toast. :-?
There is, however, enough there for me to make a plaster mould of it and then build up a fibreglass pan instead.
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There is, however, enough there for me to make a plaster mould of it and then build up a fibreglass pan instead.
Certainly don't want to discourage your f'glas seat pan idea, but keep in mind the stress placed on the seat pan's hinge attach points, the latch assembly and the attach points for the rubber bumpers. Your photos show some metal cracking that probably began before the heaviest attack of the rust zombies.
That's the original seat cover you have there, too. Note the number of pop rivets and sheet metal screws that pass through the thin, lower flange of the seat base and close to the edge. A fiberglas flange will have to be considerably thicker than the OEM metal. As such, it might be necessary to actually fab a wider seat base to provide clearance with the aft frame members. Both seats on my R65s pass close to the chassis when the seat opens up.
No doubt you could do it up in 'glass. As Bengt Phorqs asks me when we strike off on one of our motorcycle adventures, "Mongo, what's the worst that could happen?"
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Welded up the broken relay bracket today and finished removing rust and paint from all parts to be powder coated. I think for now I'll forgo reinforce the frame... but we'll see how long I can last until get the hair to do it!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mKBxQJi20iQ/Tz3IZpnEhgI/AAAAAAAAP44/9-sUTcTnucg/s640/IMAG0580%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Oh, and I should mention that my powder coat, in order to be free, is going to be satin black. Left overs from when Paul (my buddy) powder coated one of his bikes (http://evansframes.com).
I figure that will be a good colour and texture for the frame and components.... now if I can decide what colour to paint the tank and tail! Any recommendations? Nothing too bright mind you!
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Nothing too bright mind you!
Factory chassis paint on the Airheads has always been a satiny black. A little semi-shine but never glossy. Tank and tail always look good in BMW black with the proper striping pattern.
My 1981 in its original, 31-year old black paint with white and red pin striping.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2F81R6502.jpg&hash=1b12a805e96a75f0416fe6fa6f54a9116645b930)
My 1983 repainted in that year's BMW 501 Blau with silber pin striping. Paint code sticker still on rear fender.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2F83R6504.jpg&hash=9b1eaa31ce43990dc957521003edc030eab905a7)
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Carl, you have had such good luck on e-bay I'd think you could find a good seat pan [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif] The coastal salt air sure does chew up metal if let to the elements.D2
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Thanks Dave but I'm almost done with the glass seat. That said, if it doesn't go the way I hope, I'll hit the keyboard.
In other news: I've been reading a bit on tires and for my riding needs and though I know they're a bit controversial (mostly negative from those who've not tried them) I just ordered a set of Shinko (formerly moulds and formulas by Yokohama) 705s. They're inexpensive (mostly because they're trying to build up their brand from the ashes of the former Yokohama moto tires). But I'll give them a try and if they don't suit my needs... well I can sell them here or on eBay...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TSxAEB_vQmA/Tz8detUZAJI/AAAAAAAAP5A/LYOCoyqDSH8/s576/Shinko%2520705s%2520%2528Medium%2529.jpg)
Speaking of which. I'm selling my tubeless Metzler front ME330 (100/90-18 M/C 56V) and rear Perfect ME99A (4.00-18 64V) tires in GREAT shape! No cracks and at least 75-80% of tread left.
For trade on several needed parts as listed below images OR $100 for both plus shipping. Send ZIP for estimate
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wiogw4YbJjg/Tz8kp0hAMGI/AAAAAAAAP54/cadT_MHByIY/s720/DSC_0013%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JZntQ3kshAU/Tz8kqLHI29I/AAAAAAAAP58/H6yUXP4Eg-E/s720/DSC_0015%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Y16OzD14Fcs/Tz8kolyKYWI/AAAAAAAAP50/zj5s-N_idCQ/s720/DSC_0007%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
Need all NEW parts
Cylinder base O-rings Need 2
Cylinder stud o-ring: Need 4
Timing cover gasket
Front main seal
Rear main seal
Silicone Valve Cover Gasket
Valve springs: Need 4
Valve collets: Set
Valve guides: Need 4
Timing chain
Timing chain rail
Timing chain tensioner
Hinged oil filter kit
Carb to Head hose
Petcock rebuild kit
SS brake lines
SS muffler clamps
SS muffler angle brackets
EZ throttle set springs 32mm (http://goo.gl/5xGHT)
Brake pads and shoes
Fork rebuild kit
Fork boots
Side stand bumper/bushing
OEM BMW clock
Helmet lock
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Here's my progress on the seat
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1MVSIpc5J5M/Tz8sI7q0MxI/AAAAAAAAP6c/6QJBLZ3Ov0M/s720/DSC_0002%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jC4QAwL7-PQ/Tz8sJ6JqzFI/AAAAAAAAP6g/0wd15Res-OE/s720/DSC_0003%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-aPx97Vq4Y0s/Tz8sKV3ojgI/AAAAAAAAP6k/7ZyX6RS1_Ac/s720/DSC_0016%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
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Monte brought up the subject of tire dates and so I just took a closer look at the tires and realized that the rear had cracks that I didn't see before and so I'm not going to be selling it but will still sell the front tire for $30 OR trade (plus shipping). The only numbers I was able to get off of the front for a possible date was "(2287)."
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Monte brought up the subject of tire dates and so I just took a closer look at the tires and realized that the rear had cracks that I didn't see before and so I'm not going to be selling it but will still sell the front tire for $30 OR trade (plus shipping). The only numbers I was able to get off of the front for a possible date was "(2287)."
Awe forget it. Couldn't possibly be worth it for anyone! Sorry!
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Today I cleaned up the mufflers but hope someone can answer two questions I have over here (http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1329873136).
A few parts came in today including the rear tire (front should be here by Fri), new OEM air filter, shifter bushing, and right rotor.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-esHxlwP7iBI/T0RT-_TOX1I/AAAAAAAAP74/GAGrg8wotOY/s576/IMAG0610%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Finished rebuilding the carbs today (yes I used the OEM diaphragms).
My only concern now is that the carbs had some sort of sealant around the black plastic plate (shown in the before pic) which I assume was to stop a leak. Anyone know how to take off the plastic cover to check whether it has a gasket?
BEFORE
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O9MslUYCgx4/T0b_emHMj4I/AAAAAAAAP8I/sbONyQ3eeLE/s800/Carb%2520Before.jpg)
AFTER
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZDkJbyVfRfQ/T0b_f82iAzI/AAAAAAAAP8Q/VWj1kgmpo0Q/s800/Carbs%2520After.jpg)
NOTE the missing screw on the carb on the right. Had to drill out the stripped out screw and so will pick one up on the mainland tomorrow.
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Hi Boxer - those carbies look fantastik - what was the process you used to get them looking so good thanks. Adrian .....................
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A 10-32 flat head screw -stainless is always nice- will fit just fine to secure the carb tops. So close to the metric equivalent that it's not worth mentioning. I have four of them on one of my R65s.
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Thanks Monte, I'll pick some up!
Adrian, I used a brown sand pad to clean everything up and then a green scuff pad to get stuff to start looking shiny. Then I used a Dremel with a fine wire brush and then switched to a cloth buffing wheel and green buffing compound. I tried some Mother's Aluminum Polish but the before mention method did a better and deeper shine.
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Ouch!
I went to the mainland today for an appointment but then made the mistake of stopping at Ride West BMW (http://www.ridewest.com) with a list of parts I need...
What $200 bought me:
2 Inner tubes
1 Carb screw
2 Cylinder o-rings
4 Cylinder stud o-rings
1 Each front and rear main seals (plus one for something I didn't know about)
2 Fork seals
2 Fork seal crush washers
1 Qrt of fork oil
1 Hinged oil filter kit
1 Throttle lever bushing ring
1 Side stand bumper/bushing
That's it... my wife is going to kill me! At least I remembered to pick up a (big) bottle of wine to soften the blows! Unless she hits me with the bottle! :-/
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Adrian, I used
Thanks Boxer - I'll note that and see how I go when I get there. By the way - what's a Dremel???? Adrian ................
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By the way - what's a Dremel? Adrian
Variable-speed, hand-held drill, grinder, buffer, cut-off, etcher, toe nail trimmer, etc. Big Fun [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2Fdremel-tool-kit.jpg&hash=9a37a4d026663eede00527ade4f561de983ed454)
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Any advice for peeling chromed plastic bits (ie turn signals and tail lamp)?
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Just hauled in the motor... My wife is REALLY going to kill me now!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mkc-MFqfoL4/T0nPtO1ynNI/AAAAAAAAP8c/h9olwOIdbYw/s576/IMAG0615%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Variable-speed, hand-held drill
Okay thanks I have a small heand held one - I was thinking of using mime for the same reasom but with a flexible shaft atteched - thanks mate.
I remember those days of engine and bike bits in the house - thankfully I have a big shed out back now - good luck with it.
Adrian ..........................
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Just hauled in the motor... My wife is REALLY going to kill me now!
Keep a fire extinguisher handy. Not for the bike bits; for your wife when she detonates. [smiley=Kick.gif]
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Right by the front door and just for her ;)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DexXbFs-6wo/T0pmZ1Ph6UI/AAAAAAAAP8o/xpZJsKLjTUw/s576/IMAG0619%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Pucker factor today. :o
While attempting to remove the stator rotor with a 6mm bolt to push against, the rotor bolt snapped and I thought I had just fecked up the shaft.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ty0JQm6hOxo/T0scyXYvNzI/AAAAAAAAP80/Zm_yrA2BAzI/s800/Broken%2520Stator%2520Bolt.jpg)
I had to use a magnet and tweezers to remove threads and chunks of metal until it was all clear and I gave it another few shots of PB Blaster and finally with a snap (another pucker factor moment) the rotor came off!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4BHZEqfZkFg/T0sczLQMrXI/AAAAAAAAP88/oMyYnEis3EU/s800/Almost%2520Time.jpg)
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(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CxcRqjOCEKc/T0uMW14n5sI/AAAAAAAAP9I/z4BriaGJEE0/s640/Broken%2520Stator%2520Bolt%2520%2528Small%2529.jpg)
I've searched RealOEM.com but can't find the part number for the rotor bolt. Anyone know what the PN is?
Thanks!
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from motorworks
Rotor mount bolt | ELA02348
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=20&Ct=IA&SbCt=BA_15_20_IA_05&spPage=2
hope it helps
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Thanks Mr, got it ordered thanks to you!
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OMG I almost shouldn't post this but it's just too funny or ridiculous to NOT rat on myself.
Not thinking (like I normally do) I was effing around with the rocker arms not knowing what provided the shaft it's excellent and smooth operation until I took the shaft out at which several dozen needle bearings poured out onto my lap and floor (carpet)! Duhh, :-? After getting them picked up and packed back in, I noticed that I was missing one. After two days of scouring the floor and not finding the missing bearing I called BMW to see if I could order just one bearing. They were happy to help and I now have one on it's way to me.... after paying $35! :o For one bearing!
I sometimes even amuse myself how fast I throw my money away!
DISCLAIMER: I research how many bearing go into the rocker arm assembly on Skowbum's site and am certain I am missing one because of the larger gap where what looks like two would fit but in reality just one will. Also on his site I read about the different types of needle bearings and so I am sure I ordered the right part.
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Anyone have an idea what this plug belongs to? It was all taped up when I took the bike apart.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-RnXG5luWgqw/T0-0-QXT5mI/AAAAAAAAP9U/U5TpkuwtH50/s800/IMAG0624%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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where abouts does it fit on the bike?
Are the red and black connectors the handlebar switch units??
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I'm not sure about what the red and black plugs work but they plug into the relay mount on the bike frame as seen on the left side of this picture.
(not my bike)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U3yc4PqA1m8/T0_AbBDHanI/AAAAAAAAP9g/9SIcqkwh9q8/s640/81R65Restoration8-15-09Cables006.jpg)
Also what do you all think about these $17 + $13 for ship mirrors?
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi295.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm138%2Fworld_sport_way%2Fmotorcycle%2Fnew-dr-1.jpg&hash=2765510bce8ce42b90a89f1b16b0324129f35998)
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Those mirrors look spiffy but the threads on the mirrors sure look big. Have you confirmed the bling-blings will fit the R65's threaded mirror mounts?
As I recall with my after market mirrors, there is a bit of an interference with the left side switch assembly when attempting to snug down that mirror's locknut -just like the one in your post. BTW, what are those smaller nuts or whatever below the larger chrome nuts?
As to your wiring harness question:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FP3190001.jpg&hash=e5d9ab3badcd0b2ceafe73d5ada6c5d96861f2e2)
Black over white.
Red on the right.
I'm a poet and didn't know it. :D
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Hey thanks Monte.
I was actually thinking the mirrors would have some sort of universal clamp which they would thread onto but I don't know.
As for the white plug, do you know what it goes to? Also I see you have one of the more expensive aftermarket dual coils (Dyna), was it worth the $$ and do you know how it compare to the EnDuraLast coils?
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fa248.e.akamai.net%2Forigin-cdn.volusion.com%2F2b95c.ejoz3%2Fv%2Fvspfiles%2Fphotos%2FEDL-IGNCoil30D-2.jpg&hash=86af66aca1e275352ff911bde0b3a65d435506e4)
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I am a bit confused about my ignition sensor. The guy I bought the bike from said that the guy he bought if from either had the original electronic ignition and switched to a points canister but that he switched it back to the electronic OR the other way around. My ignition canister looks just like a points canister. How do I tell them apart?
Mine:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DFl-t1Fx7RE/T1EhXahtjcI/AAAAAAAAP-I/5L9o4zMXpZU/s800/IMAG0626%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rdiOD1T0jnE/T1EhXcs220I/AAAAAAAAP-Q/79jK8kfK5K0/s800/IMAG0625%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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mirrors will look good, loads better than stock!
Are you keeping the bike original or altering other bits??
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I want to upgrade anything I can safely upgrade to without compromising reliability. Going for a 50/50 power to efficiency ride and a dash or two of comfort and convenience
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Just found out that the before mentioned mirrors were chromed plastic (ew!) so I just picked up these
They fit airheads
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Ft%2FMirror-Triumph-BSA-Norton-BMW-Royal-Enfield-Motorcycle-Vintage-style-Mirrors-%2F00%2Fs%2FMTIwMFgxNjAw%2F%24%28KGrHqF%2C%21gsE7%21l57fw0BO8mHZR61Q%7E%7E60_12.JPG&hash=7e7220f913caf0b5c3e45f19d2b73e1dd1dfbb79)
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My ignition canister looks just like a points canister.How do I tell them apart?
Open it up and look inside. Do you have a set of points in there? The condenser on the outside is suspicious of a points set up.
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I'm thinking it's points. So knowing the science behind what it does, what are recommendations (if any) on what to do: should I "upgrade" to the stock electronic system or maybe an aftermarket can such as an ALPHA Ignition System (www.motoelekt.com/alpha.htm) or should I keep what I've got because it's better than anything else?
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VqdNL5sMk9Q/T1E8mpj-e5I/AAAAAAAAP-o/TZUb9octt9U/s512/IMAG0628%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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You can have some educational Airhead fun by tracing the wires from the connector blocks using the R65 wiring diagram. Wire colors are shown.
I'd be willing to bet Mitt Romney's $10,000 that there are way more Dyna coils rocking Airheads than the EnDuraLast. If you haven't yet hooked up with Rick Jones at MotorradElektrik, do so soon. [smiley=2cents.gif]
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... should I "upgrade" to the ... ALPHA Ignition System (www.motoelekt.com/alpha.htm)
Buy the Alpha from Rick. It's so damned expensive but rebuild friendly. We need a forum member to be the first. Go fer it! ;D
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... should I "upgrade" to the ... ALPHA Ignition System (www.motoelekt.com/alpha.htm)
Buy the Alpha from Rick. It's so damned expensive but rebuild friendly. We need a forum member to be the first. Go fer it! ;D
Anyone want to donate for the cause?
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Finally got around to fixing the bunged up exhaust threads. Used the lapping compound method as mentioned previously.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XJPAP5hsm2E/T1FfaEHA3PI/AAAAAAAAP-8/jyB5ySc_lws/s720/IMAG0629%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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WTF!!!?? I spun the exhaust nut on and off probably a dozen times and now after polishing the head it doesn't want to come off!!!??? [smiley=furious3.gif]
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WTF!!!?? I spun the exhaust nut on and off probably a dozen times and now after polishing the head it doesn't want to come off!!!??? [smiley=furious3.gif]
Now, Carl... Steady on.
Did you clean off all the valve lap compound and then smear on a coating of anti-seize? Please say you did. [smiley=wall.gif]
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I cleaned off all of the valve laping compound but hadn't yet got the anti-seize on yet. It was only a matter of about 30 mins until I realized it was stuck! :'(
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So do I force it off or am I going to have to cut it off and get a new nut?
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So do I force it off or am I going to have to cut it off and get a new nut?
I'd probably try to get some PB Blaster into the exhaust stub threads. Prop up the head so that the liquid might be aided by gravity plus capillary action. Wait a couple hours and try to remove the nut... gently try to remove the nut.
If she still won't play nice, I might use a propane torch and play some heat on the exhaust nut. Just enough to cause a bit of expansion of the nut but little heat on the exhaust stub.
Do this outside, Carl. Your bride really will need the fire extinguisher if smoke fills the house... wink, wink.
When you get the nut off, put it away somewhere safe until you do the anti-seize drill. ::)
Good luck, amigo.
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Monte you're the man!
What I did this weekend:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-66L42yWlFHU/T1O3F-jftUI/AAAAAAAAP_o/thslAvmRonw/s800/IMAG0632%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
Rough intake channel. Time to whip out the Dremmel and sand er smooth! Portin and polishin!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TqLhPlpk0Gs/T1O3FQ24_4I/AAAAAAAAP_g/FyUn31PkAAQ/s512/IMAG0633%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Anyone have an idea what this plug belongs to? It was all taped up when I took the bike apart.
On the photo you can see that the wiring goes through the front of the frame. I'm not sure what it attaches to but something up front ::) D2
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i hate reading your posts, i've tidied my bike up ok
but you do one hell of a job!!!
So come september the R65 will be off the road!
Cheers for the inspiration!!!
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Not professional but muuuuch better!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mkC6dLukT38/T1QBiQplNlI/AAAAAAAAQAI/alFS0Xoaxpk/s512/IMAG0635%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
Thanks Mr E!
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Pop pop
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YnXbJh8tuZ4/T1QGzGcBh9I/AAAAAAAAQAs/37k3M30Eni8/s800/IMAG0638%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
Not liking the quality of the valve heads but I did the best I comfortably could to mitigate the pits. I do feel comfortable, however, with my seat lapping job though.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Bxf8cVu1LXA/T1QGyzvdlDI/AAAAAAAAQAo/A4MTW_BgVUM/s800/IMAG0639%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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One down one to go!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f3rPRg8qeWs/T1QPbE6AG_I/AAAAAAAAQBA/mKC_x5_WkkQ/s800/IMAG0641%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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You are so a motorhead..God Love Ya! D2
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Better than the last
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_zVLMPA-WrQ/T1Qn6GIHJuI/AAAAAAAAQBk/fEvenyo7d4k/s800/IMAG0642%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
All done!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j8zmoeO9b5c/T1Qn6EGS0JI/AAAAAAAAQBc/T5uYE6vE6xs/s912/IMAG0643%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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You are so a motorhead..God Love Ya! D2
I do like to tinker! [smiley=beehive.gif]
This was my last summer's engine overhaul
http://goo.gl/tbkQ8
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It's a good thing I have a second driveshaft because the one with the braced swingarm I picked up on eBay had a broken spring [smiley=shocked2.gif]!
I'm wondering what kind of force it took to do THIS:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V9WxA4uHta4/T1aEK2dDRPI/AAAAAAAAQCE/WV-9YeiJldU/s512/IMAG0648%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Well the second drive shaft looks a whole lot better!
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Carl,
Great build you have going. I'm curious to see if you have any improved performance and response from the port polishing. Something I considered doing during my restoration. Nice work, enjoy following your progress.
-Mike V.
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what have you used to get such a great finish on your cylinder heads??
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what have you used to get such a great finish on your cylinder heads??
Simple Green and a long bristled brass brush to get in between the fins, then a green scouring pad, blue Dawn dish detergent and the kitchen sink for the final cleanup, and a bit of elbow grease. Then towel dry.
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what have you used to get such a great finish on your cylinder heads??
Simple Green and a long bristled brass brush to get in between the fins, then a green scouring pad, blue Dawn dish detergent and the kitchen sink for the final cleanup, and a bit of elbow grease. Then towel dry.
Dead man walking! [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif]
What's up, Carl? Your bride outta town for a couple? Riding a motorcycle isn't dangerous enough for you?
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what have you used to get such a great finish on your cylinder heads??
Simple Green and a long bristled brass brush to get in between the fins, then a green scouring pad, blue Dawn dish detergent and the kitchen sink for the final cleanup, and a bit of elbow grease. Then towel dry.
Dead man walking! [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif]
What's up, Carl? Your bride outta town for a couple? Riding a motorcycle isn't dangerous enough for you?
Ha! I usually do it when she's at work but when she's home I just kinda include it when washing the dishes. This makes her so happy that she often doesn't notice the motorcycle (and occasional car) parts in with the dishes. [smiley=whistling.gif]
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Dead man walking!
And they call motorcyclists down here Temporary Australians. I'll take my chances on the road !!
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SMALL UPDATE
Just wanted to show what I've been doing this week
All painted (4 coats of paint 7 coats of clear coat). I still have some rubbing compound to take out some of the swirl marks and when hardened, will wax and buff.
Original airbox:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-42Fc6W_slSw/T2y7EFJaJgI/AAAAAAAAQNM/KCtalG6KK90/s912/DSC_0004%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
Outgoes the fugly headlight bracket (will sell along with original 7" light):
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uvChpqFlv24/T2y7BaV3WkI/AAAAAAAAQNk/Eo7OR7DrtxI/s521/DSC_0001%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
And in with an 8" bucket and classic ears I got for cheap:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KqnxLFA6jWA/T2y7C2h3CBI/AAAAAAAAQNU/TwAPdw6Pbng/s912/DSC_0002%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zdu7d9EzS7M/T2y7BcZp8sI/AAAAAAAAQNc/2w6WzoFtO0U/s912/DSC_0005%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
I also painted the horn and an aftermarket (universal) headlight guard that I picked up but will go away with the original 7" headlight unit:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZjkDqED-t6E/T2y7EufTXBI/AAAAAAAAQNE/igXWd-nFw3A/s912/DSC_0006%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
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Am also painting up the inner cover
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-13f_VSw2wQw/T2zrJlF7r7I/AAAAAAAAQN4/neIU11esGZY/s640/DSC_0002%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
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FOLLOW THE BOUNCING BALL! [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]
"This is the way we wash out heads, wash out heads, wash out heads!" [smiley=whistling.gif]
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MIwWWxzcASc/T3EX5icQK9I/AAAAAAAAQQs/69ZfSO5TLKg/s640/DSC_0005%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
"This is the way we wash out heads, just before a beer!" [smiley=beerchug.gif]
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RviMayteboQ/T3EX56iqpJI/AAAAAAAAQQ4/kkNyiaEvLuA/s640/DSC_0004%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
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that is one way to do it!
Looking good, am looking forward to seeing it together
Elliott
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Before washing them I first put them in the oven and turned on the "auto clean" which baked them for three hours which softened (or baked out) all or most of the carbon and then I did my little washing machine thing using CLR to get to the rust. Afterwards I sprayed them out with some B-12.
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I think I may have scored big time (or maybe not).
I just bought this 1983 R100RT tank off of eBay for $27 plus $15 for shipping.
The GOOD:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tLw7_XXDf-I/T3OBsk-CG4I/AAAAAAAAQUA/-79Kb6dhhZM/s1024/83R100RT01.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f-uSqvSiuRQ/T3OBqYMH2-I/AAAAAAAAQUY/LMudeAKA2BE/s1024/83R100RT04.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gKE2geFpZD4/T3OBrbWQUqI/AAAAAAAAQTw/UDxT-PgaRFc/s1024/83R100RT03.JPG)
The BAD:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HDP1o4CwKQw/T3OBs85uk1I/AAAAAAAAQUI/wbEbSCh7ujM/s1024/83R100RT02.JPG)
The downright UGLY (but I can fix that... I think)!:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PA-C525vmkw/T3OBsG0n3sI/AAAAAAAAQT4/CyUqTyL1AIE/s1024/83R100RT05.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JUDpAMtV3O4/T3OBrUDU55I/AAAAAAAAQTo/9CS-GjMBRkw/s1024/83R100RT06.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y69qPWq5r9o/T3OBtLMjxaI/AAAAAAAAQUQ/bisotgsneHw/s1024/83R100RT07.JPG)
But hey, it'll be an interesting project and if it fails $42 is a whole lot cheaper than trying to mod a $400 one and failing all the same!
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Should be getting the powder coated frame back sometime next week.
Meanwhile I'm rebuilding the points which originally came from a 1980 airhead and that had been installed by the former owner. I should also be getting a new timing rail, tensioner, and spring in by Saturday just in time to reinstall all the electrical and bolting the timing cover back on!
I did find some rust inside my tank but haven't fully inspected it yet to see where it's coming from. Looking through the fill port the liner seems intact but when I pulled the petcock out there was a bit of rusty sediment around the strainer hoses. I think some POR15 might do the trick to fix that. I'm also pushing the two small dings out and will find some touch up paint and then sand and re-clear coat it.
I sanded and then painted the headers with black VHT ceramic paint. Tomorrow I'll cure them in the oven and pick up some header tape. I still have to find suitable piping to replace the xovers.
I am considering sending out the heads to have the valves and seats reground for an unleaded conversion but would like to have some input from ya'll on it first.
Turns out it was cheaper for me to buy four new quality aftermarket turn signals than replacing the plastic OEM signal reflectors which lost all of their reflective paint. Opposed from the OEMs the aftermarkets are chrome coated metal rather than chrome coated plastic and look a bit like the signals from the early K bikes.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oJ6Mi8j9XV8/T3VfVCIfrTI/AAAAAAAAQV8/c-cGpX9Vor8/s488/Replcement%2520Signals.jpg)
Lastly I ordered EBC rear brake shoes and a 40 bulb LED taillight replacement.
(https://www.beemershop.com/catalog/images/led%20brake%20light%2079-95.jpg)
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Coated the inside of the rear fender with 3M under guard coating
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zW4MJUKXDCM/T3YQnG8ti6I/AAAAAAAAQWo/cGMgRtETlQU/s1024/IMAG0670%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Timing rail, guide, and spring installed and timing cover re-installed.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vH5SakqXLBg/T3jILDRpsFI/AAAAAAAAQZ0/KRdSbaWDEaA/s576/DSC_0001%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
Serviced speedometer (removed any rust on metal parts inside and re-greased gears) and repainted bezel (not pictured)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jRUxVeJA27Y/T3jIKxd8xAI/AAAAAAAAQZ8/mG3X92vVWj4/s576/DSC_0005%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
Cleaned up gas cap including buffed off all rust and residue and cleaned gasket
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZBRjqvX211g/T3jIK-alZTI/AAAAAAAAQaE/F77Zj0kvMjg/s576/DSC_0004%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
De-rusted rear and front (not shown) axles
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0xYsqRs3Xg8/T3i9yFkeJZI/AAAAAAAAQZQ/ibPjOPMKv_U/s912/DSC_0003%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
And a few other odd jobs
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The speedo bezel drying
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UCfnfrX9zzQ/T3jMJdnEm9I/AAAAAAAAQaw/PXGHGuURv0A/s912/DSC_0003%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
Hi Temp ceramic coated headers all cured and ready for install (paint job looks a lot better in person and marks are just paint buffed from handling). Will be taping up anyway.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jh3ADuCtIEc/T3jMJ2axXII/AAAAAAAAQao/-ziBYbhiH7k/s912/DSC_0001%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
The chrome on the turn signals was completely flaking off and having them rechromed was prohibitively expensive so I painted them with chrome paint even though I'll be selling (or trading) them along with their covers.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PdXlhjIEH80/T3jMIv0TdcI/AAAAAAAAQa4/t2IPTxh-wFg/s912/DSC_0005%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
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WHOA!
Just for giggles I popped off the threaded mount that came with the aftermarket turn signals to see if the clamp pinch would fit onto the OEM headlight bracket and it does! Perfectly!
I was originally thinking I was going to have to drill out a hole in my retro headlight ears but not if these'll fit the OEM signal brackets!
VERY COOL!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Umwcut1Qmlk/T3jaVVbGqoI/AAAAAAAAQbQ/qz37HBmzZiw/s640/Signal%2520fitment%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
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what have you used to get such a great finish on your cylinder heads??
Simple Green and a long bristled brass brush to get in between the fins, then a green scouring pad, blue Dawn dish detergent and the kitchen sink for the final cleanup, and a bit of elbow grease. Then towel dry.
Dead man walking! [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif]
What's up, Carl? Your bride outta town for a couple? Riding a motorcycle isn't dangerous enough for you?
Whelp! She's saw the credit card bill and is ranting away.... still! :-?
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she may whinge, but that bike will be worth it!
Well done
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OMG! I SO FREAKING WANT THIS SPEEDO! :'(
If only I knew what is was?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ttA0E8kjLC8/T3sjvjEFS2I/AAAAAAAAQdo/iBWsSBcOFVY/s912/Digital%2520BMW%2520Speedo.jpg)
Saw it here: http://youtu.be/aa2qkU5hh58
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I found the speedo at Flatracer.com (http://flatracer.com/#/electronic-speedos/4552499309)!
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A side by side comparison of the 1983 BMW R100RS fuel tank that came in today and my 1984 BMW R65
LENGTH
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JMVMmJ8LcuA/T3uNKBwQMdI/AAAAAAAAQes/Clu1SdD_2Ko/s800/Length.jpg)
WIDTH
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tZ8UP86n_rw/T3uNIRxrhPI/AAAAAAAAQfE/CqYQfC4TZs8/s576/Width.jpg)
HEIGHT
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KGxKFO8YcKw/T3uNJSDHXdI/AAAAAAAAQe8/mz1_GHwfI4s/s800/Height.jpg)
FRONT MOUNT BRACKETS (DEPTH)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9wU_iKyQ9-4/T3uNLkSEHrI/AAAAAAAAQek/RNyMajG_C-8/s800/Depth.jpg)
REAR MOUNT BRACKETS (FRAME CHANNEL)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--KAXZ-e_il4/T3uNJ4HqOYI/AAAAAAAAQe0/4Ox0eHbGSFQ/s800/Frame%2520Channel.jpg)
BOTTOM (FRAME CHANNEL)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QXjhQcZ7Ga8/T3uQ_HlbTUI/AAAAAAAAQfw/5KUoPx8lmJI/s800/Bottom.jpg)
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BEGIN RESTORE
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UbOV6opuajE/T3x4OKC7XmI/AAAAAAAAQgk/CAkWvgFvkSU/s576/R100RS%2520Rust.jpg)
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AND SO!
THIS is on order (but Rick is fresh out of em and wont be able to get more until the end of next month)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.motoelekt.com%2Falpha.JPG&hash=6b7aa409d43a74a1a314d407b970a830bccdbf93)
THIS is ordered from EME but coming on time
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fa248.e.akamai.net%2Forigin-cdn.volusion.com%2F2b95c.ejoz3%2Fv%2Fvspfiles%2Fphotos%2FEDL450-ALTKIT-2.jpg&hash=ffb3b4e54126d8abb87ed22c3889aebc0cfa66d1)
And THIS, from Dime City Cycles (yep found em sold in the US)!
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dimecitycycles.com%2Fmedia%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct%2Fcache%2F1%2Fimage%2F5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d%2F1%2F9%2F19-2853-bk-vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-streetfighter-acewell-2853-digital-motorcycle-speedo-speedometer-tach-tachometer-2_1.jpg&hash=b44f6ca6533f7c574a8ca93871a111726e45a1ed)
Along with THIS!
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dimecitycycles.com%2Fmedia%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct%2Fcache%2F1%2Fimage%2F5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d%2Fa%2Fc%2Face-s11-vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-cables-acewell-2853-digital-motorcycle-speedo-speedometer-tach-tachometer-bmw-1.jpg&hash=01e58bc1925838a3eb5c98897f3d0a05440c2ac1)
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The only bad news is that my frame wont be finish until this coming week as Paul (my friend) had to take off to the mainland but is headed back for the weekend. He'll be calling me up to come out and help him as the main frame "JUST" fits into his powder coat oven!
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If THIS could work and I could retrofit it...!
Acewell fuel sender
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3performance.com.au%2Fimages%2FACE-TS.jpg&hash=52f78589654d774abd916cfab284d039bc18aaa2)
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Pulled the forks apart today and you'll never guess what I found! Yep, more effing rust! Well the springs at least [smiley=chairshot.gif]
Just ordered a set of the Progressive springs an hour ago.
I've learned to laugh much more these days!
Oh and I've been talking to Maggie at Dave Quinn Motorcycles and should be ordering rear Hagon shocks from them within the week.
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Got the Acewell ACE-2853 speedo the other day (http://youtu.be/zZ7n5B7uHhQ) and yesterday the EnduraLast 450watt alternator (http://youtu.be/LvgUd18wqFo).
Should soon be getting a set of Progressive front springs and Hagon rear shocks. Also as soon as Rick gets more of his Alpha ignition cans in he'll be sending out one to me along with a blue 0.7 ohms Dyna coil.
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New fibreglass seat pan using the old rotten steel one as a mould.
Have a bit of sanding to do then build up the sides and install hardware
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--hfXEHlBjag/T4iYjQHAcdI/AAAAAAAAQo0/-fJitu9Sbtg/s800/DSC_0002%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
Finally finished rebuilding shocks with Progressive springs (still have to install seals)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aSBvucWDZGQ/T4ianypPqGI/AAAAAAAAQpE/5GKRittuAo4/s512/DSC_0002%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
Also installed the EnduraLast Alternator
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Que3Y-8WXhU/T4ibsk-B3KI/AAAAAAAAQpU/IemuKNyPELQ/s512/DSC_0001%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
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These powder coated reproduction valve covers came in from Bavarian Cycle Works (http://bavariancycleworks.com/?page_id=86)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uML8-925UwE/T4muX9Wn_oI/AAAAAAAAQqU/FOCKb9_eK3U/s800/Retro%2520covers%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
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Hagons came in today. Impressed on how light they are compared to the OEMs!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LuwLfGc2kVo/T45wiJ3pY0I/AAAAAAAAQt8/niSPMXj0XTg/s512/DSC_0005%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
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Still waiting on the frame to get powder coated. My friend realized that the frame was too big for his bead blaster cabinet (barely fit into his oven) and so it went out to a friend of his who does it professionally for $200. Oh well at least it will be guaranteed now (though I trusted my friend). Should have it this week.
In other news it seems I am now a magnet as I was just given this 1975 CB200T. Tonnes of rust but it kicked over when I picked it up and unlike vintage BMW parts, used Honda parts are much more affordable.
I will build this up for my wife (as an "I'm sorry for over spending on the Beemer" token)
WEB ALBUM: http://goo.gl/QRjww
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bznT-tIaA8E/T5M1rnhUsOI/AAAAAAAAQxo/Mo6XDxN_258/s800/_DSC0002%2520%2528Large%2529.JPG)
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I will build this up for my wife (as an "I'm sorry for over spending on the Beemer" token)
I'd ah liked to been there when you said, "Here Honey, look what I got ya!"
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Hey she knows the magic in my fingers... er tools.. err hands...
Actually she kinda said something like, "My bike, do I need one?"
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Actually she kinda said something like, "My bike, do I need one?"
Bolshie...........
If I'd spent a ton of Money on my bike I better come better armed than with a rusty Honda, more like dinner, flowers and $500 for her purse for "carry around " money.
I showed up with something like that a long time ago. That's when I realized just how lonely it can get at night!!!! LOLO
Joe
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Thanks Joe but I gave her my back and balls already (not to mention my monthly pay cheque)! [smiley=beehive.gif]
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Finally got the frame and most of the other parts back from the powder coater
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oqY6Fzc6PFw/T6bHo5LwoKI/AAAAAAAARNw/kC-JBzD_uvE/s576/IMAG0694%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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A little later today
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SSZcKfZsyEw/T6dBs7LzzhI/AAAAAAAAROM/lZYFIy_ESEU/s800/IMAG0695.jpg)
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A rough dry mockup
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0LxPgzVOVgo/T6yE0ohs-PI/AAAAAAAARSA/aT2naxv-KKM/s800/IMAG0698%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Looking good Carl!!!
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Thanks AC!
Can anyone tell me what this is and where it goes?
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YzKCCz5AiIU/T6_5KeDIH0I/AAAAAAAARU0/-qKCtxguRPQ/s576/IMAG0699%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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It's a splash guard. Fits under the steering head and in front of the down tubes. The two holes are where the OEM zip tie holds it on. Orientation can be confusing. IIFC, the round bump is a clearance for the factory horn.
I have both of mine off the R65s due to the loud dual horns mounted.
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Awesome! Thanks Monte!
I might have to fabricate something more effective and less plasticky...
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... I might have to fabricate something more effective and less plasticky...
I believe the original intent was to offer some protection to the under-tank electrical and ignition components. Don't know how well it actually worked- certainly didn't do anything for my Bosch Crack-O-Matic coil. ;D
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(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oqY6Fzc6PFw/T6bHo5LwoKI/AAAAAAAARNw/kC-JBzD_uvE/s576/IMAG0694%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
What's the rail on you swing arm??
Bike is looking brilliant now
Also, what's your front tyre?
Looks meaty like a TKC80
Well done
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Tanks Mr E!
The rail is a brace "weldon" for added strength done by San Jose BMW (http://www.sjbmw.com). I got lucky and picked it up used off of eBay for a pittance. A bit heavier than the OEM but maybe it'll offset the dual front calipers... ::)
The tires are a Korean company called Shinko (www.tyres-pneus-online.co.uk/motorcycle-tyres/SHINKO). After the Japan earthquake destroyed much of Yokohama's motorcycle tire plant, they sold all of their motorcycle tire technology and moulds to Shinko.
Because they're new a lot of people who see their cheap prices are hesitant to buy them but by all accounts by those who've actually ridden on them love them! They're Yokohama just with a different name.
The Shinkos I have are the Trail Masters.
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Today, in spite of having pertussis (aka whooping cough), I got the rest of my bike parts back and then spent the day sanding, cleaning, and painting them. I also continued to work on glassing the seat pan and hopefully tomorrow I can have it ready to upholster and also finish the parts with clear coat.
Oh and I was vaccinated when I was a kid AND had a booster just 6 years ago!
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bolshie,
i don't know if you have already found muffler guards but i have a set that i would be happy to trade for your footpeg rubbers if you are willing.
also, i have some bits for a r65ls that i don't need. front fairing (lower, wedge) and a rear seat cowling if you in need. i don't want them and i need the space.
let me know.
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Damn Ira, I just sold the foot peg covers on eBay for cheap! Would have traded you for the muffler guards in a heart attack! Any chance you would sell them to me?
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wow, i just scrolled up and checked out the bike. very nice work. those tires look like a cozy fit but very well rounded dry mock up.
thanks for posting.
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Haven't posted much about my progress but feel I've done enough now for an update.
Note: tank is just on for show as I'm still not done painting it.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CLMrD0tfMJ4/T72AKB5hwKI/AAAAAAAAReE/H7ApEAuhJdw/s1129/IMAG0702.jpg)
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A few pics of my finally "done" DIY fibreglass seat pan. A bit heavier than the OEM pan but I did it myself and I love learning shiit!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7YzAz-FkTYw/T8g0Dpx9EyI/AAAAAAAARj4/LCEwagFsFME/s720/IMAG0724%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UoTnkNWN594/T8g0EWxTs2I/AAAAAAAARkA/fL_MkJ9J3YU/s720/IMAG0726%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
I did the bottom with under coating for some sound and vibration deadener
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xABE5_ig7Lc/T8g0DuJsa8I/AAAAAAAARjw/tHv_j6we3vk/s720/IMAG0725%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
The large holes are like the OEM for the air and moisture to escape while the smaller holes are for the hinges (embedded inside are aluminum brackets to reinforce the hinges).
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Got a bit done today, pics soon.
FINISHED TODAY:
-Got most of the wires strapped into place
-Cables fitted
-Seat pan attached with old hinges. Just have to bolt on the lock catch and upholster it. Turned out a little short but I'll add something between the front of the pan and the tank. I've been thinking I might rather have a single and a half seat with a rack extension
-Fixed the exhaust wrap that wasn't secure enough
-Attached DIY battery covers
-Fabricated and attached DIY dash
-Replaced final drive fluid
-Finally received my back ordered oil eye for the gearbox and installed it.
-Bolted and connected starter
-Re-routed crank case breather
-Installed starter cover, airbox filter and cover, and alternator cover
-And a half dozen other little things
WHAT'S LEFT:
-Finish wiring for speedo
-Figure out where I want to install the ignition switch
-Fill forks with fluid
-Fill brakes with fluid
-Install Motorrad Electric Alpha ignition trigger, control, and coil when they arrive.
-Triple check all torque points
-Upholster seat
-Paint and install rear rack
-Double and triple check everything
-Fill fuel tank, pray to gawds, and start 'er up! :D
-Fix one of the pannier locks
-Finish first helmet
-There's always something I'll remember later
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Anyone know what these two wires connect to?
A:?
B:?
NOTE that "B" has a hermaphrodite (female/male spade) connector
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0vZXCfidwQM/T80oFJqBuFI/AAAAAAAARkY/EX1NasrUcLE/s720/IMAG0728.jpg)
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I realized that the previous pic makes it look like the wires are connected to each other but they're not so here's another pic
Sorry for the blurriness
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2baPzh7f_nc/T80qNGqKZtI/AAAAAAAARkk/x1PrzzjrnnY/s720/IMAG0729.jpg)
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I am wiring the speedo and have some wires unaccounted for. Anyone want to give it a shot and tell me to what these wires connect to? And should I connect all of the BMW brown ground wires to the one black Acewell wire?
NOTE: The blue Acewell wire noted as fuel gauge will not be used
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DRD-VyeMYq0/T85glVJP0QI/AAAAAAAARlU/3zBK-uOvyRg/s800/IMAG0730.jpg)
Here is what is supposed to be my wire diagram (my actual wiring seems a little different)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8IbVVdnKHvs/T85gkmnA9kI/AAAAAAAARlQ/6_N3rpaA8NM/s800/84%2520R65%2520Wire%2520Diagram.jpg)
Here is the Acewell speedo diagram I got from Avdrider.com (someone else's interpretation) NOTE: The star is noted as the gen light hookup however without some fancy knowhow, I probably won't be using this
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1OFrfwwdcA0/T85ggblQ44I/AAAAAAAARlM/fGDVrwEfUy4/s800/Acewell%2520BMW%2520Wiring02.jpg)
Here is another colour code for the Acewell harness to BMW harness
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1gaZq_7iQQU/T85gt3tY_oI/AAAAAAAARlY/a8AKqU3Itds/s512/Acewell%2520BMW%2520Wiring01.jpg)
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So this is what I've figured out so far on the extra wires.
The BMW blue and one of the browns go to the generator charge light
The two BMW black and white striped wires go to something called a scale light (maybe dimmer light/switch?)
The BMW blue and green striped wire with one of the brown wires go to something called a speed warning light.
I am headed to NAPA to pickup a light for the gen charge but the last two I have no idea what to do with. Anyone want to fill me in?
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There is a bracket welded to the frame backbone near the regulator that captures about 5 -I think- brown ground wires; all in one tidy ring connector. I see one of your brown ground wires spliced into another colored wire leading off somewhere. Does this go to a ground terminal or should the OEM brown and the colored wire meet at the chassis ground point?
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FR65VoltReg04.jpg&hash=a9d6c51d07ad6b6b1a5c8b1d953daf074db02f5d)
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Thanks Monty!
I connected the group of grounds (like yours) on the rear bracket
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AZktqB7oNRs/T86lTwdNiOI/AAAAAAAARls/wj79L8rrqzw/s800/IMAG0731.jpg)
The grounds in my previous post each go to a warning light on the dash (or tacho). I now realize that I will still need to install two warning lights, the gen light and what I think is called the speed warning light (maybe this is the shift light?). Those two warning lights each need a ground and so that whittled my group down to two. One for sure will connect to the Acewell ground, however, I am unsure where the last one will connect to. There are the two black and white striped wires which my manual says goes to the "scale light" which I first need to figure out what the heck that is and then whether or not it needs a ground or whatnot.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w94UFNJ-IHY/T86lm2Vm2uI/AAAAAAAARl4/1V8wUCkh-wo/s576/IMAG0732.jpg)
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So the "white" and black striped wires are actually grey and black striped wires and the "scale light" is the speedo light. It also goes on into the headlight which is why there are two wires. I can just connect these two together as I won't need the old speedo light as the new one already has power for it's lights. Meanwhile the two leftover ground wires can connect together to the black Acewell ground wire and we can call that all good!
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That light blue OEM BMW wire can be traced on the wiring diagram you posted.
It runs from the diode board to the voltage regulator to the GEN bulb.
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Thanks again.
I've got just about everything connected and just have to pick up a couple of dash lights (one for the gen and the other for the shift warning maybe?) and then I am set (knock on wood)
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Okay so I am done fiddle farting around with the seat/pan and will finish it up sometime in the future. Meanwhile I just got this EZ Burg off of eBay for $75 plus ship and though it was advertized for 1986 to 1995 it fit perfectly sans the cowling and glove box! Will need to get a fitting cowling and make something to work as a glove box but am not too worried and it's comfy! Just one little tear to fix
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZFGvceX2l0Q/T8-xF_bJ3JI/AAAAAAAARmI/pKE83PS0cUE/s800/IMAG0733.jpg)
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Brake and fork fluids DONE!
A little easier than my procrastination warranted!
Will be going through all the torque specs to make sure the wheels don't fall off and the lash gaps to make sure she's ready for the final parts when they arrive!!!!
Feeling pretty good about the last few days of work on Bolshie!
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Can someone PLEASE post a picture here of how the wires are connected to their ignition switch? I need to (visually) see which terminal each of the coloured wires connect to!
I've looked at several wire diagrams and I have a couple of extra wires going on and I need verification that mine are right. I can't give the bike juice yet to test the connection and my multimeter is on the fritz!
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The extra wires that you have, are they green with a black spiral band ?
If they are, they are used for optional clock and voltmeter internal lighting .
They don't go on the ignition switch, they just sit there with no job to do .
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Thanks Bob! A perfect example of the difference in wire diagrams I've run across. One diagram I came across said that the green/black wires were the switched power (switch key) while the red was clock power and so I wired accordingly. I suppose I'll have to undo that now!
My Clymer Manual says that I should have a green, red, grey, and adjoined yellow and green/brown wires going to the switch but I have a white (or grey?), green, red, green/purple, and then the adjoined green/black wires.
So is there still a current going through the green/black wires or is that off when not connected to something?
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I am 12v illiterate! :-/
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Yes, there is 12 vdc available there it's on the same circuit as the tail light, 'parking' light under the hadlight bulb and internal lighting for the tachometer and speedometer .
According to the wiring diagram that I have at work , there are 4 wires on the ignition switch, red goes on terminal 30 of the switch, grey wire on terminal 58, green wire on terminal 15, the last one green with a violet spiral band looks like terminal 53, my enlarged copy of the wiring diagram has a few of the terminal numbers 'washed out' , when I get home, I'll check the original size diagram to get the correct number .
The terminal numbers are molded into the bottom of the switch body next to the metal terminals .
At least on the US model bikes, there are more terminals on the switch, than there are wires, don't know if non US model bikes are different . .
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Thanks again!
I disconnected the green/black wires as per your recommendation and now the only wires that are connected are the grey (looks like white), green, red, and violet/green and are connected to the same terminals as your wiring diagram says.
The last set of wires (I hope) I need verification on are these adjoined blue/green wires. According to my diagram it looks like they connect to the ignition coil.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xXxRiyFhYR0/T9JfBO7WZ7I/AAAAAAAARms/pSDzbfHTBrg/s576/IMAG0734%2520%2528Large%2529.jpg)
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Those two green wires, are they green with a white spiral band ?
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No they're green with a blue band
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The green wire with a violet spiral band, may go on terminal 56, it's not clear on the original I copied from .
The green/blue wire comes from the ignition coil, goes to the connector for the kill/start switch, then goes to the tachometer electrical connector .
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They're finally here!!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sJfdgajfQ_w/T99Q9zfEzbI/AAAAAAAAT1c/q9EoytWsSkM/s720/IMAG0757.jpg)
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For what it is worth ,here is a photo of my ignition switch. D2
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Thanks Dave that help confirm I had the ignition hooked up correctly... Now if I can figure out why the Acewell is hot without the ignition turned on.
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My friend Robin ROCKS! She knows 12v electrical stuff and helped finish the electrical on the moto-mocycle and it turned over, YEA!
Now I just have to figure out why it spits oil into the right head cover via exhaust rocker.... Anyone care to make suggestions?
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Just to clarify my previous post; it seems to spit more oil than what I think might be normal (but then I'm not sure what normal is supposed to be).
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Just to clarify my previous post; it seems to spit more oil than what I think might be normal (but then I'm not sure what normal is supposed to be).
Had any luck figuring this out?
Are the valves seated properly??
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Yea I got her running and rode her home yesterday but Bolshie still needs a bit of adjusting of everything before she's running properly.