The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => Discussion about "Lesser" makes, er, Non-BMW ;-) => Topic started by: montmil on April 06, 2012, 04:26:50 PM
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For the Triumph riders and / or knowledgeable others among us-
I want to fit speed bleeders to my 1995 Triumph Trophy 900. I can find many bleeders with different thread sizes but do not know what is correct for my bike. Ideas n' answers would be appreciated.
[size=14]Oh! Never mind.[/size] - Rosanne Roseanadana
Trolling eBay and found a nice speed bleeder "store". Kirbys Brake Bleeders actually listed the individual motorcycles and provided the thread size. Ordered three for the Trophy and one each for the R65s. Very good prices, made in the USA and low cost shipping. http://stores.ebay.com/Kirbys-Brake-Bleeders
And the sizes?
The Triumph Trophy is M8 x 1.25
The R65 is M10 x 1.0
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I just ordered from Speedbleeders themselves. 7$ for the R65
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I just ordered from Speedbleeders themselves. 7$ for the R65
Yep. That's what I paid for mine, too. Kirby's is a bike/auto dealer for the Speed Bleeder brand. Was pleased to be able to confirm thread sizes before ordering.
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Mongo, your local NAPA dealer also has the speed bleeders at about that same price.
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Mongo, your local NAPA dealer also has the speed bleeders at about that same price.
Not my local NAPA, for sure. Mostly oil, batteries and clearance lights for your stock trailer.
"That there's some weird threads your askin' fer. We's gonna have to see if'n the warhouse gots dem."
Adios, gents. ::)
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Mongo, your local NAPA dealer also has the speed bleeders at about that same price.
Not my local NAPA, for sure. Mostly oil, batteries and clearance lights for your stock trailer.
"That there's some weird threads your askin' fer. We's gonna have to see if'n the warhouse gots dem."
Adios, gents. ::)
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:o :o I ordered the R65 bleeders from Kirbys and they are the M10 X 1.0 alright (SB1010S by Kirby off of Ebay). Just tried to put one in and the old one came out fine and the Kirby one started in ok, then hit that sealer on the threads which made it harder to turn so I was ready for that as the instructions told me that would happen. So I turn harder and the bleeder goes in a bit further. Still a long way from seated according to the thread count showing. Then all hell broke loose! The bleeder started to turn too easily and that was it...no more progress getting the bleeder seated even though piles of threads left exposed. The bleeder could not be seated far a long shot as instructions implied they should..."when the speed bleeder bottoms out" Doesn't that imply that all the threads should be used? Otherwise one would never know when to stop. Guess no. When I removed it up to 4-5 threads were filled with metal...I assume the metal is from the inside of my Brembo caliper! I prayed a lot and put the original one back in...it did tighten up much to my surprise and relief and I continued the brake bleeding process. All OK so far but have a paper towel down ready to see if there is a slow leak! Ok what did I do wrong Monte???! Afraid to try the second one for the other side on the double disc'd LS.
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Gosh, Sue, I sure don't know. I might suggest you give Kirby an email with your exoeriences and concerns. Sounds as if you did confirm the correct thread pitch for your bike?
Is the overall threaded length on the new Speed Bleeders the same as your OEM parts?
[smiley=clap.gif]Prayer!
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Are the speed bleeder screws longer than the OEM bleeder screws ?
If they are the same length, the sealant on the threads is probably the issue .
Find these on the 737's I work on, usually in the cabin interior furnishings, the screw/bolt is usually threaded into a 'soft' metal, aluminum or brass like material .
The sealant binds the fastener up, until the threads give way .
I would personally run them through a die before installation to clean the threads up, if you wanted, you can add a wrap or two of teflon tape afterwards, on the upper portion of the threads to seal them during the bleeding process .
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The old bleeder is back in the caliper so I can't compare. I do know that when the tightening got harder I looked at how many threads were still left unscrewed-in. Probably 3-4 so the bleeder was no where near seated. I then compared that to the OEM one on the rightside of the bike and it too was not all the way in but it was further so I figured that was normal. I knew I didn't have to seat the new bleeder completely but it needed a bit more.Probably in retrospect it did not and as soon as it binds one should stop trying. This would mean that the sealant wasn't much used at all.
This morning the OEM bleeder is leaking lightly....eerrgh!! Now what? Will this lead to a new Caliper and what would that cost? Maybe if I drained it all again and put some teflon tape on the OEM original it would stop leaking? Still takes torque so the OEM still alive in there! Using a 4 inch wee wrench and nervous about that! Could I cork the hole quickly to avoid an entire drain?? Just do it fast??
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Try a little teflon tape but do keep it away from the open end of the bleeder screw.
I'm now thinking similar to Bob R...
Could be the sealant. Could be your OEM units have fewer threads than the new Speeds have.
If you leave the brake master cylinder closed, there will be a small loss of fluid. After replacing the bleeder screw, you should be able to top off the reservoir without going through the air bleed process.
How about having the new SpeedBleeder unit nearby to visually compare thread lengths? Let us know what you discover.
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If the bleeder screw is leaking, tape on the threads won't help, the sealing surface is the conical part of the hole in the caliper .
You may want to remove the bleeder screw and see if any metal shavings got down onto the sealing surface .
Worst case scenario, is to have the threads repaired with a threaded insert .
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If the bleeder screw is leaking, tape on the threads won't help, the sealing surface is the conical part of the hole in the caliper.
Oops. So right. These ain't pipe threads.
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Just to see if I have a fluid leak, slow or not, Stewart my riding buddy suggested I tie back the handlebar brake lever with a bungie and leave it for awhile. Over time I should see or feel if anything leaks out. If a small dab is on one's findertip with a wipe under the bleeder is that horrible or iffy or OK? Stew says that if fluid is escaping, air can get in too...seems logical but bad news. So a helicoil would work then. Much cheaper than a new caliper unless one finds a used one, I guess.
Is there any chance that I could "blow" out that bleeder with emergency breaking??!! :o
Also, impt. to understand that the sealing surface is the conical end. Thanks for that info.
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Long night with brake lever tied back produced no brake fluid under the nipple. Just a shadow of fluid one hour later with bungie's off. So leak is minor. Just asked Rob about his brake caliper. Looks to have a left one......think it'll fit??....'79 vs '83 R65LS vs. non LS bike?
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It should fit, but it probably is an ATE caliper, don't know if your LS has Brembo or ATE calipers .
ATE's are natural aluminum color, Brembo's usually are black .
The brake pads are different between the two different calipers, you can 'modify' a Brembo brake pad back plate to work on an ATE caliper, but you can't make ATE pads work on a Brembo caliper .
I can post pictures later today to show the physical differences between the two calipers, if you like .