The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => Totally Off-Topic Discussions, Rants, Tire & Oil Threads, Etc. => Topic started by: ddebonis on August 13, 2013, 04:05:03 PM
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Hey All,
Keeping this short: My engine oil is running dangerously close to the "min" line on the dipstick. The bike is a year old and I've haven't put new oil in it yet, so I have no idea what's in there currently.
What do you recommend for riding in San Francisco (Average temperature is 45-70F)? I just want to bring the level back to the half way point, ideally today.
Cheers,
Danny
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I'd go with a motorcycle specific oil, after that, it's your choice .
Oil viscosity, you can probably use 10w40 in your environment .
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Oh boy... an oil thread!
I use and recommend Castrol 4T 4-stroke Motorcycle Oil SAE 10W-40 in all my Airheads. Whatever oil you select should be SG API Service as it will have a minute amount of ZDDP-zinc which will help keep your flat tappet camshaft and lifters happy and in good condition. This service rating is highly recommended by BMWMotoradd.
Airheads don't seem to like synthetic oils. The seals throughout the engine and drive train may tend to develop leaks when using this ultra thin and slick lubricant. Should you already have a bit of seal seepage, you'll have more with the faux-dino oil.
My [smiley=2cents.gif] Who's next... ;D
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To me it is just down to cost. I will not pay for fully synth when the engine oil won't be in there for that long. Its an aircooled motor. That means the oil will get dirty quickly due to the looser tolerances which are applicable to this kind of motor. Just chucking good money after bad. It won't get you into heaven quicker. And your bike wont thank you for it.....it will carry on regardless.
Of more concern is that there is enough, not too much and not too little.
There, I feel better now.
Rev. Light
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I have switched to Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil as it has higher ZDDP levels and we don't need the friction modifiers a lot of motorcycle specific oils have for wet clutches. It's available in Dino or Synthetetic...
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I 2nd that.
I'm using Valvoline semi synthetic 10w40. Valvoline oils are generally good quality without being silly expensive.
Never thought San Fransisco had such as a moderate climate similar to the UK so 10W40 is probably OK but you must use a high quality oil and check it's not getting too hot. My logic for justifying 10W40 is I check the sump temperature after a long run and if it is 85 - 90 Deg C then 10W40 is as thick as 20W50 would be at 100 Deg C. Even BMW are OK with you using 10W40 in ambient temperatures of up to 20 Deg C
If I was in a hot climate with oil temperatures bordering on 100 Deg C or more I wouldn't dream of using 10W40.
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Like barry has said before... it's not just ZDDP, but the high temperature high shear (HTHS) rating. ZDDP only matters once the oil shears. Synthetics usually have much higher HTHS ratings, but yes, they can find leaks more often. I just threw some Rotella T-6 full synthetic in a 179k Miata and it has yet to mark its territory.
I use Kendall GT-1 20w50, as it isn't too expensive and the specs are decent.
Don't need a motorcycle specific oil as those are usually marketed to keep wet clutches from slipping. Just about any non "energy conserving" oil works with a wet clutch. I used to run Rotella T in a Kawasaki Vulcan 750.
Now, my main concern in your case would be that you've had the bike for a year, haven't changed the oil, and who knows how long it was before you got it? Sludge will be building up in there, and your oil is surely getting acidic. Especially if you are doing short runs and stop and go riding.
FWIW, apparently the newer service ratings have included tolerances for E85 gasoline... maybe the ethanol blowby does different things to the oil than the good old juice?
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Also, motorcycle specific oils are also made with a shared sump (trans and engine) in mind to help deal with oil shearing in the transmission. Not sure on the specs of em, but boy can they get expensive.
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Thank you all! This is all very helpful.
(Yes, SF is mysteriously cold -- I often see poor tourists in sandals, shorts and brand new sweatshirts trying to get warm.)
I added 200cc of Pennzoil 10w-40 (Call me crazy but I expected a shell station to carry Rotella but this is all they had), which was enough to bring it from "min" to half way on the stick.
So I just bought myself some time... Now, where does one buy an oil filter for an R65? Do I also need to get a gasket or o-ring?
-Danny
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There have been issues with non-OEM filters collapsing, due to the high oil pressure that the engine runs at .
My personal recommendation is an OEM BMW 'hinged' or two piece filter, these seem to be less likely to collapse .
Yes, you need an o-ring and metal shim as well for the filter cover .
If you have an airhead friendly dealer or independent repair shop local to you, I would go there and get the parts now for this oil and filter change .
Then you can do some research to find a parts supplier .
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NAPA sells a WIX filter which is an excellent quality filter for about half that of BMW.
Part number is PS4945.
It includes Gasket and O-ring and SHIM.
Install filter First.
Shim Second.
O-ring Third.
Gasket (if needed) last and then bolt on the cover.
Best you read Snowbums article on how many shims you should use (with no outer gasket). I use two shims with no outer gasket. You result may vary.
Read this article if you have never done this before...
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/Oil.htm
PS - Valvolene VR-1 Racing Oil 20W50 in the summer and 10W40 in the winter. Also I use Valvolene Semi-Synthetic (dark blue Bottle) 85W140 summer and 80W90 winter. But 80W90 year round is just fine on the lightly loaded naked bike. My bike gets the Tranny, drive shaft, and final drive oils changed twice a year. You should change yours at least once a year minimum. Get a torque wrench and the torque setting for all those plugs (steel threads in soft aluminum) or you will be sorry.
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Thanks -- let me digest that info and let you know if I need more help.
In the meantime, have y'all seen this? http://www.bikeexif.com/surfboard-motorcycle
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millers classic oil, specially made for ahem, older machines
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For those in UK, Castrol 20-50 seems fine.