The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => Totally Off-Topic Discussions, Rants, Tire & Oil Threads, Etc. => Topic started by: Semper Gumby on January 14, 2010, 05:36:04 PM
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Hi All,
With the demise of my Lockhart Oil cooler during an 18'F OAT start and the $10+ per quart price of Spectro Golden 20W50 and the difficulty procuring said "golden", I am starting an ADOT.
My though is to switch to the Castrol Syntec 20W50 in the summer and use the 5W50 in the winter (Late October through March).
I can get the Syntec at any Autozone. Has anybody used this stuff yet or am I to (once again) be the leader?
:D (flame on)
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Hey, I'll jump into the water here! One of the comments you will hear is to avoid synthetics in older motors because of the sealing issues. Synthetic oil, although almost all of them begin life as a dino oil, has very consistent molecular properties and seal weeping/leaking has been reported.
I'm thinking about changing over to one of the Shell Rotella oils at the next oil change for my airheads. The important additive for our engines is an adequate amount of zinc, ZDDP I believe. Rotella has around 1200 but I'm not looking at a spec sheet. I've used Castrol GTX 20W50 for years but have recently learned that it is lacking the robust zinc properties required.
For my oilheads, I'll probably use one of the synthetics.
OK, who's next?
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The last seal I have to worry about on the R65 is the main seal. Its replacement sits in a sealed bag waiting the day when the main seal starts leaking (along with an oil pump o-ring and a set of streatch bolts for the flywheel)
96,000 miles 30 years and counting...
Shell Rotella 1200 ppm (?) zinc I think is what you mean. I guess you will be staying away from the T6 synth?
I use the Rotella 15W40 in my cars. Seems to work well so fare. And one more year with the 1985 Buick and it won't matter weither the catilitic converter works or not.
I wonder what the zinc ppm is for the Castrol Syntec?
Oops I may have answered my own question...http://www.spectro-oils.com/motorcycle/tour/tech.asp?action=v&id=23
Time to go hang on the Bob's the oil guy site again... :o
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Time to go hang on the Bob's the oil guy site again... :o
That was me about the Castrol Edge Sport 25/50.It has high zinc etc for flat tappet pushrod engines,aimed at the V8 market here and Aust,don't know if it is marketed where you are.25/50 may not be good for a cold winter,but we don't go below zero much here on a cold morning,and I don't ride until the sun is a bit higher and temps bearable.
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Hi Motu,
Not available here in the US.
The Castrol Syntec doesn't have as much zinc in it. Only about 950ppm.
I'm leaning toward sticking with the Spectro and going with 10W40 about November 1st till some time in March. Of course with the Global Warming this shouldn't be a problem. :P
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I use whatever 20w50 I can find. I've yet to try a synthetic in my engine.
I haven't had to worry about cold weather oil since I sold off the sidecar rig.
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Bill,
Have you investigated the "Synth-Blends"? Being cheap I haven't sprung for the full "Synth" yet. I've used Castrol Synth-Blend in my family cages for years although they're (relatively) newer designs. My old '68 & R65 seem to do OK with Castrol 10W30 & 20W50, although I used to add zinc to the V8's oil in past years.
:-/
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Hi Ed,
Good tohere from you.
So you are not using the GTX? (I guess thats dino oil?)
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Sorry about not being clear, I use the standard Castrol GTX in the old engines, Castrol Synth-Blend in the newer ones. Always wondered how much ZDDP the Synth-Blend formula had in it. Of course you can always hunt up an additive and add it.
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I have been using Mobil 1 for the last two years with..no seepage..no drips...no problems other than the cost. With the heat of central Texas in the Summer and pulling a sidecar..I figure I need synthetic...and have been pleased. I switched over to Mobil1 for my truck too.... with no problems...drips. I also switched from every 3,000 miles to 7,000 in the truck. Now on my baby...my R65; I do not go by mileage but change it any time it starts getting dirty. This is always before 3,000 miles rolls around. I figure oil is cheap compared to an engine rebuild.
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Interesting info...
1980 was the crossover year for oil seals. Apparently after 1980 seals were supposed to be able to handle Group IV (synthetic) oils.
This from the Spectro site -
http://www.spectro-oils.com/tech/faqs.asp?action=v&id=23
More interesting reading.
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Bill
Thanks for that link. There is some really excellent technical info on that site shame we can't get Spectro oils in the UK.
Quite a bit off the topic and eosteric but this bit of info is a gem :-
"Cavitation can be reduced significantly by rounding chamfering all the edges of all the damper valves where oil flows".
I read somewhere that BMW did this on later models and didn't understand why - now I do.
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Yeah I saw that as well. I wonder if it applies to the older BSA's...Hmmm. (Where anything is an improvement!)