The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: J_Hirst on July 06, 2008, 03:26:26 PM
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or I may never be able to ride this cow again!
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffilebox.vt.edu%2Fusers%2Fjhirst%2FTVR%2Fhelp%2520me%2520-%2520small.jpg&hash=e3ac3763cd54ef9abbc24d7823e7978857418dad)
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or I may never be able to ride this cow again!(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffilebox.vt.edu%2Fusers%2Fjhirst%2FTVR%2Fhelp%2520me%2520-%2520small.jpg&hash=e3ac3763cd54ef9abbc24d7823e7978857418dad)
Is it bad? Wuz up? I see some bits missing from the front end but my R65 looked the same before I... uh oh. Is you doing what I been doing? Spill it.
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It is quite normal for children to take their toys apart to see how they work.
You never know you might grow up to become an engineer!
Or you might discover what lurks beneath and start to understand how it all works...... :P
Now to simplify that front end!
a couple of ears for the headlight and a digital instrument set-up......ooer!
Steve H
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It is quite normal for children to take their toys apart to see how they work. You never know you might grow up to become an engineer!
Or you might discover what lurks beneath and start to understand how it all works...... :P
Now to simplify that front end! a couple of ears for the headlight and a digital instrument set-up......ooer!
Steve H
Hoorah for the simple guy! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
As a young pup, I dismantled ol' Dad's power lawnmower. We had to take it to the local Fix-It Shop to get it running again. Seems I had reinstalled the con rod cap improperly. I did see how it worked... ultimately.
You'll enjoy the Vapor (if that's your choice?) digital instrumentation. In reading the entire manual I noted that: 1) Unit is made in the USofA; and 2) Extended time in direct sunlight can darken the screen! UhOh. Made a Vapor Koozie that stows in the tool tray. Now I have this weird hole chopped in my Cabriolet's sun screen. [smiley=happy.gif]
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FVaporKoozie.jpg&hash=3892ccfde9de117c380d2bae15d4b9a116b0241f)
Bought a cheapie sun visor at our local 99 Cent Store. Made a paper mock-up, cut up the sun screen and used double-faced carpet tape to secure the folds. Control cables secure the bird cage cover. Slightly tacky but oh so elegant. [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif]
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Monte,
I think you need to contact the folks who make the Vapor and offer this design up as an official accessory with you being the contracted supplier!
rich
who currently has a commercial sewing machine on his dining room table
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Monte,
I think you need to contact the folks who make the Vapor and offer this design up as an official accessory with you being the contracted supplier! rich who currently has a commercial sewing machine on his dining room table
My wife would understand you so totally, Rich. For several months, I referred to our kitchen as, "The Sewing Room". So many projects for the grandchildren... For me, I'm the barefoot child of a shoemaker when it comes to getting my damaged jeans mended!
A commercial machine is very valuable. I mooch "industrial strength" sewing favors from my ex-wife's husband who owns a parachute rigging business. The things we stoop to... ::)
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I took apart the front end because the turn signal post broke off. Saw Montmil's bike with the turn signals on the headlight ears, and thought that was the way to go.
In a nutshell: Removed windscreen, removed headlight assembly, removed dash and tach/speedo units, disconnected all wiring, disconnected brake line and throttle cable, removed bracket for modification. While at it, I dismantled and cleaned throttle assembly since it was sticky, and removed handlebars so I could get everything up there nice and clean. I also removed the taillight, rear turn signal bracket, and licence place bracket -- all metal got sanded and repainted, and even the light housings got a fresh coat of paint. Tried to find replacement reflectors, but couldn't find any locally, so the aluminum got sanded and painted black.
I have since removed remaining turn signal post, filled holes, sanded, and painted the bracket (not perfect, but better than $120 for a new one.) Ordered new long-stalk LED signals to mount to the ears of the bracket - they're a bit sleeker than the stock, and should look good with the Givi windscreen. If I like them, I'll order matching replacements for the rear and probably have a replacement rear signal bracket fabricated to receive the new led signals.
Now before I reassemble the mess, I have to do the following: replace brake line, replace throttle and speedo cables, new bulbs all around, and I'd love to get my speedo apart to make sure there are no broken gears, need for oil, etc. (ANYONE WHO CAN WALK ME THROUGH OPENING THE FRONT OF IT UP, PLEASE LET ME KNOW).
She'll be put back together more or less stock -- no changes from analog to digital. Although I am intrigued by the Vapor setup, and may keep that in mind in the future.
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Now before I reassemble the mess, I have to do the following: ...and I'd love to get my speedo apart to make sure there are no broken gears, need for oil, etc. (ANYONE WHO CAN WALK ME THROUGH OPENING THE FRONT OF IT UP, PLEASE LET ME KNOW).
My speedogaugeometer had been opened by a PO. I'd guess a small, flat bladed screwdriver from the looks of the "re-crimped on" rim. That may not be the only way... at least someone should've done a little better job of it. Like, touch up the chipped paint? IMHO anyway.
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At least I'm not the only one who considered that option. Figured I'd ask before I did something I couldn't undo.
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The comment on the display having problems with sun exposure, I installed an LCD thermometer on my bike, and in temperatures of 105 F. and above, the display 'washed out' and was unreadable.
Didn't seem to cause long term display issues.
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yeah, the small screwdriver method worked for me. i wasn't too worried about scratching mine since it was shot. now i'm joining the ranks of the vapor users, should be here any day. [smiley=3stooges.gif]
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Jonathan, look in that binder I gave you when you picked up Blue. There should be a long, printed post in there showing step by step how to get into, check and repair the speedo.
If not, it's here on the site, somewhere in the early days of the Technical section, originally posted by MsBuck, if I recall... :-?
PS: Here ya go...
http://suraklyn.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1164689333
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by chance did you already try this, steve?
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by chance did you already try this, steve?
Unfortunately, no, I did not. Sorry 'bout that.
There are also a couple of other good speedo posts in Technical if you look back.
Rob Valdez posted an excellent chart at about this same time showing speed at RPM, calculated with his GPS, and I used that as a reference point for a while, then discovered several posts here about the use of bicycle computers.
I then mounted the Sigma and never looked back...
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I personally JB-Weld the damn thing back together after I "un-crimp" them. I'm a bit too impatient to get the ring off in a re-crimpable state.
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Gee-whiz !
One sure can tell we have a bunch of southerner bikers here - they seem to be spending what we up north would consider precious summer riding time taking their working bikes apart and putting them back together again ! Up north, we usually try to do these sorts of things in the 6 months of the year that it is too cold and/or snowy to ride !
:D
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Gee-whiz !
One sure can tell we have a bunch of southerner bikers here - they seem to be spending what we up north would consider precious summer riding time taking their working bikes apart and putting them back together again ! Up north, we usually try to do these sorts of things in the 6 months of the year that it is too cold and/or snowy to ride !
:D
Mike, that was pretty much my thought too, but I sold Jonathan the bike, and he's a friend, so I didn't really want to bring the subject up myself.
I'd a strapped that turn signal on by whatever means necessary and ridden all summer long. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
At least in my mind, that's what winter is for.... ;)
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Gee-whiz !
One sure can tell we have a bunch of southerner bikers here - they seem to be spending what we up north would consider precious summer riding time taking their working bikes apart and putting them back together again ! Up north, we usually try to do these sorts of things in the 6 months of the year that it is too cold and/or snowy to ride !
:D
Mike, that was pretty much my thought too, but I sold Jonathan the bike, and he's a friend, so I didn't really want to bring the subject up myself.
I'd a strapped that turn signal on by whatever means necessary and ridden all summer long. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
At least in my mind, that's what winter is for.... ;)
Fellas, it's hotter n' hell's fires 'round these here parts this timea year so cut us Southern boys some slack. We ride in the winter when temps are in the 70's. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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Monte,
I couldn't agree more, I know Phoenix is the extreme example, but after the Memorial Day holiday the last week of May, a majority of bikers park their bikes until the end of September, when the daytime temps, are starting to average below 100 F.
Winter is the riding season here in the low deserts of Arizona.
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Hehehe !
C'mon guys I hoped that you could tell I was razzing ya !
Of all the places in the south, I think that I'd still do at least some riding during the summer months Except for 2, or possibly 3 general areas:
1) Miami/south Florida - that is just too hot and sticky most of the time, and the roads aren't very interesting in such a flat state
2) Any where near El Centro, CA - now that place is ridiculously hot in the summer, and below sea level, which somehow makes it feel all the worse.
I remember playing a game of golf, in August, and the temperature was around 118 - 120F (but it is a dry heat ! hahaha !) and we couldn't drink enough
water to stay hydrated for 18 holes - I don't think that I have ever sweat that much before in my life, and I used to run 1/2 marathons ! One of our group
passed out from dehydration even though we had a cooler of water in the cart. Playing on grass that was the consistency of pool-table felt didn't help my golf game, either, but that's another story...
3) Phoenix area - though perhaps if I lived away from the city and never got into stop and go traffic I might survive for short intervals before I melted into
a puddle of salt water and then evaporated - BUT, riding year round near Flagstaff would be much easier (and more desirable, I think).
With some mesh jackets and enough evaporative cooling vests, one should at least be able to make a daily trip to the Kwikee-mart and back ;)
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In case the picture didn't show it, the bike resides in my carport, meaning that when it gets cold (and yes, it gets cold in Virginia) I won't be doing any mechanical repairs.
I uncrimped the ring and got inside. I use the term "uncrimped" loosely, in much the same way you might say a chainsaw "unsealed" your shoulder. Looks like it was gnawed off by weasels.
Looks like everything turns as required after a bit of greasing. Needle much less bouncy. Since the odometer was fairly accurate before, I'll check it out with a stopwatch and powerdrill to see if it is close to calculated speed. I think even the reset for the trip meter is working again.
Wish these were easier to open, 'cause I'd love to get the mositure out of the tach. Perhaps an hour or so in the oven at say 150 degrees? Anyone have any luck in this arena?
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I have heard of people putting these in a low-temp oven for several hours to dry them out - I wouldn't go over 150 F in any case, but I
haven't actually done this myself. If you live in a hot enough climate, maybe just putting it out on some aluminum foil in the sun for an afternoon
will do the trick ?
There are some folks in the US who are pretty good at repair and recal of speedometers and/or tachometers, though one is generally looking
at $150-$200 for their services - probably has something to do with getting the crimp rings off !!
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To dry things out you could use some dessicating bags like those in packaging. Put the item to be dried and some dessicating bags in one of those sealable poly bags and leave to dry out.
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in a former life as a laboratory manager, I'd have had access to desicating jars -- large airtight glass containers with a layer of desicant in the bottom. Perfect for this need, but, alas, my career evolved....
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To dry things out you could use some dessicating bags like those in packaging.
If you 'd like to keep your tools dry and less prone to rust -depending on where you live- make up some bags of the dessicating stuff and toss them in each tool drawer. I use my wife's panty hose -wait for it... after she throws them away.
The moisture absorbent material can be bought in large bags at Wally-World. It's a particular brand of kitty litter that has the same chemical makeup as the little bags in your iPod package. Lemme check the product name next time I'm at W•M... I've slept since I last bought some.
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You could try putting a 100 w or higher light bulb in your oven, and just turn the light on, and it should get the temperature up to 120 F.
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Hehehe! C'mon guys I hoped that you could tell I was razzing ya!...
...I remember playing a game of golf, in August, and the temperature was around 118 - 120F (but it is a dry heat ! hahaha !)...
We done knowed you wuz jist razzin' us. Shoot, we likes razzin'... 'specially dem folk what come looking fur ol' J.R. and Miss Lucy round Dallas parts.
And my retired Delta driver buddy in Mesa AZ, when told, "But it's a dry heat" responds... "Yeah. And so is my oven".
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Well, Blue is coming together much more slowly than hoped. Having a bit of a brain fart getting the ignition lock back the way it is supposed to set (one of the few things I didn't take notes on as I disassembled). Anyone have an exploded view of this? There's the lock itself, a spacer, a nut, the crash pad, the trim piece, and the finishing nut on top. tried every config I can think of.
Other than that, I upgraded to steel brake line, and they forgot to send a banjo bolt.
I think the speedo will behave more or less now, but we'll see.
No bike for me for National Ride to Work Day today, and then a week of family vacation. Maybe August.
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Does this help?
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.realoem.com%2Fbmw%2Fdiagrams%2Fy%2Fl%2F7.png&hash=c3e2cf61d054a4f203277035f98bd0e8a5d55db0) (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0364&mospid=47851&btnr=51_2603&hg=51&fg=15)
klicky on da picy
:-/ Darn, couldn't get that clicky the picy thing to work... :-/ Yea! I got it!
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Unfortunately RealOEM does not allow direct linking of their images.
But! Since you included a link to the page, all the reader has to do is click on your image, and when the RealOEM page loads, reload it once, and everything should appear.
Now: the image is loaded into your PC's cache memory, and when you come back to the forum, you may be able to see the image in Aïda's post!
And Jonathan, if you moved the lower nut on the ignition switch, you may have to find the correct height adjustment, once you have it nearly back together.
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Well, instead of packing for the faminly vacation, I snuck out in my robe and messed with the ignition lock. The realoem pic, which I'd seen, had more parts than I did! (extra ring and wave washer, parts 11 and 13) And why in God's earth are the parts which to me seem very linear in their assembly, not ordered consecutively!?!?!
It took three hands to get it together, unfortunately I was alone, so I used cussing instead and it seemed to work. It's now all together and cranks, but won't start. 4 weeks since it's been ridden, hopefully the battery tender will help.
After vacation I'll install the SS brake line, assuming the banjo bolt comes in to the dealer by then.
Talk to you all later.
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Have fun on vacation!
You should have bought 2 motorcycles - one to ride and one to play with! ;D
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Banjo Bolts are a common item at hydraulic supply stores.
Yes, even metric.
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Blue's been back on the road for a couple of weeks, with only two major issues:
1) the headlight lens rattles. A PO added a bunch of foam padding inside the bucket at some point. Probably had the same problem I'm having with the clips. Any hints?
2) still haven't replaced the left side switch. Found a used one from a '92 R100 which looks identical (except it still has the high/lo switch that I lost) but the RealOEM shows different part #s. Anyone know if these are interchangable?
Will take a pic to show the turn signal transplant results.
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Just writing to say I have no idea on either point.
I don't know how hot the headlight gets, but I'm not sure I would want some foam in there.
I have not had to play with those clips much, or for a very long time. I find them to be very frustrating. I know that the next time I have reason to remove them, I will take several photos showing how they are supposed to go back!
On the switch, I have no idea what they were using on the mono-shock bikes. Do you have it in your possession? If all the pins on the connector have the same color coded wire, I'd say go for it. As far as the mount goes, it will either mount, or it won't. Slips up in place and one screw keeps it there...
You might check the handlebar perch for that side, for your bike and the '92. If they are the same #, you are closer.
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I think that there is a fairly small "gasket" type thingie in the headlight that goes against the retaining ring, at least there appears to be on my '82 when I got it.
If you have trouble finding a proper part, perhaps trying some of the more rubbery-type "Form-a-gasket" stuff would give you a good tight, compliant fit. If it can withstand use on valve covers on V-8 engines, it can take the heat of your light bulb, I should think.
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Took her out today to catch a TAG from the TVR forum - a nice 120 mile ride with a rattling lens, oh and the screws holding the speedo face rattled out and the face started turning around too! What a riot.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffilebox.vt.edu%2Fusers%2Fjhirst%2FTVR%2Fblue%2520-%2520jacks%2520creek%2520bridge.jpg&hash=7d2a621bcb8a09fcc97ef8bc1e7c166170b3d575)
Here's the front end now, with the signal transplant (and the new stainless brake line):
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffilebox.vt.edu%2Fusers%2Fjhirst%2FTVR%2Fnew%2520signals.jpg&hash=3340f0fb8309880254fa1d1af7bcd0313c619aa0)
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Blue's been back on the road for a couple of weeks, with only two major issues:
1) the headlight lens rattles. A PO added a bunch of foam padding inside the bucket at some point. Probably had the same problem I'm having with the clips. Any hints?
2) still haven't replaced the left side switch. Found a used one from a '92 R100 which looks identical (except it still has the high/lo switch that I lost) but the RealOEM shows different part #s. Anyone know if these are interchangable?
Will take a pic to show the turn signal transplant results.
Jonathan, have you seen this switch that Larry in Austin has?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260274741052&rd=1
As far as the headlight goes, I saw that insulation too when I put in the PIAA bulb. From looking in the Clymer manual, it appeared there were clips missing and something has to hold the reflector & bulb in place, so I just left it alone. I never had any heat issues, as the foam was behind the reflector. Never had any rattling lens issues though, so unsure how to stop that. A ring of silicon caulk maybe, allowed to dry and then installed, or some other rubbery-type giant O-ring material? :-?
ps: Like those signals! Did you do front & back?
The braided line's probably a very good idea too. Any changes in the feel of the front brake?
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Didn't do the back, yet. Will redo all of them eventually, as well as adding LED brake lights.
I'll bid on that one Steve, but last time he sold one on ebay, the final price was as high as a new one!
Perhaps its my imagination, but the brake feels much more responsive.
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That Ebay left switchgear closed at $73.50.
Jonathan, didja winnit? [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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The actual switch is identical to those on the "bigger" bikes but the R65 has a modular/Molex style connector on the end. If one could get, say, an R100 switch on the cheap it would work with a bit of soldering and heat-shrink tubing...
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That Ebay left switchgear closed at $73.50.
Jonathan, didja winnit? [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
For that kind of money, I would rather have a brand new one for just a little more...
$85.00 retail, $68.00 current price on Chicago BMW...
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That Ebay left switchgear closed at $73.50.
Jonathan, didja winnit? [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
For that kind of money, I would rather have a brand new one for just a little more...
$85.00 retail, $68.00 current price on Chicago BMW...
Yep. $68.00 bucks. I checked before bidding. Here's a continuation thread, sorta.
http://suraklyn.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1219444284
Monte
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Nope didn't win it.
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Jonathan, do your signals blink a lot faster with the LEDs? I put blinkers on the front of the R65RS that use a single bright LED and they now blink just like a bulb is out, which, I ghuess, is actually correct!
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If you want a normal blinker rate, go to Autozone and get a (two-prong) variable load blinker. It blinks at the same rate bulb out or leds in. 3 something bucks I think...
TTFN,
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Heh, shows you just how far behind the times I am - didn't know there was such a thing. Shouldn't be too hard to rewire/wire in...