The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => Misc. Technical Discussion => Topic started by: BPT on June 06, 2020, 01:21:36 PM
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With the internet making so many things easily accessible to us, I was looking to get some decent quality wire to have on hand. At some point I'll be adding a couple of things (clock, voltmeter), but also thought I should have some for repairs and such.
I have no idea how many different gauges there are on an R65, but if you were going to get maybe two sizes (or three?), what sizes would be the most useful to have?
I was planning to order some connectors, then realized I needed some wire for something, so I thought it might be good to get some spare wire at the same time.
As always, thanks in advance.
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BPT.................. Having NOT looked into this before, I would think a good place to start would be your local Junk Yard/Pick-a-Part.
Find yourself an old Bimmer and with your side cutters , "go to town"
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I didn't mean that I was planning a major re-do of the wiring harness or anything like that. I was planning to buy some decent quality wire online for a couple of things I needed to do, so thought I'd get some extra for future uses.
I was just wondering what gauges of wire would be the most versatile.
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I've used 18 gauge wire on circuits that I've added to the bikes, these are low current circuits .
I added an additional ground wire from the voltage regulator, where a vast amount of the bikes circuits grounds, or earths are ganged together .
I ran this wire back to the negative terminal of the battery, I used a 10 gauge wire here .
I also added additional 10 gauge wire from the diode board to the starter, there is one terminal on the diode board that is unused it's a 12 volt output just like the one that is used .
I also replaced the negative cable from the battery to the transmission .
I used a premade cable from an auto parts store, I don't remember what size it was, it's about the same diameter as your little finger .
I ran this from the the forward side of the lower right engine to transmission bolt back to the battery .
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Thanks BobRoller. I was figuring that 18g would be good for gauges and things like that. I'll definitely get some of that.
For short things, like the bigger ground cables, I have a good local place that'll put them together for me for no extra charge, just the price if materials.
Maybe I'll just stick with the one gauge and then wait until I have a specific need for something else.
Thanks.
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I would actually suspect that most stuff you'd want to add could come with wiring harness already attached, so you might need more conversion connectors than actual lengths of wire. E.g. the voltmeter is an option on some models, the wiring harness already has a spot to plug the stock volt meter harness, so you'd just need that.
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That's a good point Matt, and it would be nice to hook things up to their proper places, if they exist. I got an aftermarket voltmeter and clock, so those are a couple of things I'll add eventually, just haven't decided where I'll mount them yet.
I was trying to get some opinions on wiring in general - if you could only have one or two gauges, which would be the most useful?
And since you brought it up, maybe I should ask - for the voltmeter, other than ease of connecting, is the stock connection the best way, versus straight to the battery? I like the idea of using what's there, but seems like some people here have said the best reading is straight to the battery ? (Not being argumentative, just curious).
Thanks
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for the voltmeter, other than ease of connecting, is the stock connection the best way, versus straight to the battery?
I haven't added a volt meter to mine, but my personal preference would be to use the harness. I suspect the value would be in the change over seasons vs having a precise reading, and I wouldn't care for separate runs of wire (hence my first comment). But if it's aftermarket, that could be more complex, if the plugs don't match up.
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Volt meter connects to the ignition switch cost $2 from China. It is sealed with plastic selasticed over the top