The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => Misc. Technical Discussion => Topic started by: Bob_Roller on January 15, 2011, 07:00:05 AM
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Leaving for work on Thursday morning, noticed the cables that go from the bottom of the door to the pulleys that are attached to the bar with a spring over the door were slack .
Spring was broken .
Luckily I have a three car garage and could get the bike out through the other door .
After a few calls, I found a shop that would sell the springs, most won't, due to liability for injury or damage if the person attempting to install them that doesn't know what their doing .
Took all of 15 minutes to get the spring out .
45 minutes to get the new spring, you need to bring it in so you get the correct replacement part .
20 minutes to install the spring .
A little unknown piece of information to someone that has never replaced one before, the springs are either left or right hand springs, depending on which side of the middle support bearing for the shaft that the spring is on .
The springs are color coded for left or right , red paint on the spring makes it a left spring, blue paint on the spring makes it a right spring .
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I can remember my Dad changing one of those springs. It slipt loose, knocking him out for a good 10 minutes. The force was enough to pick him up and deposit him on the bonnet of car in the drive way.... Happy days in Norfolk :D
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...The springs are color coded for left or right , red paint on the spring makes it a left spring, blue paint on the spring makes it a right spring.
Well, slap me! Aviators and boat drivers all know that Red is port/left and Green is starboard/right.
I also had a spring break but remembered all the stories of friends being injured when the tool lever slipped and the spring caused injury or damage. I called a garage door guy and he did the chore that day, quickly and economically. I stood well away and watched... after moving all the bikes out.
You make house calls, Bob?
Monte
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Neighbors saw me doing this on Thursday and told me how dangerous it was to be doing it yourself !!!!
When I lived in Chicago a neighbor installed and repaired overhead doors for a living, so I had a good education on the perils of working with these springs .
To have a service call to replace the broken spring is around $200US, that's labor and parts, I got the spring for $70US .
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...To have a service call to replace the broken spring is around $200US, that's labor and parts, I got the spring for $70US .
Whoa! OK, my door fix was about ten years ago. The service call, part and install was less the a hunnert. Next time, it'll be a DIY deal.
And Social Security says I don't get a raise because consumer prices are "stable". Where does this SS SOB grocery shop? ;D
Monte
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Neighbors saw me doing this on Thursday and told me how dangerous it was to be doing it yourself !!!!
When I lived in Chicago a neighbor installed and repaired overhead doors for a living, so I had a good education on the perils of working with these springs .
To have a service call to replace the broken spring is around $200US, that's labor and parts, I got the spring for $70US .
In your original post, you don't mention having previous experience with these springs, nor do you tell us what was involved.
I know there is tension on the spring when the door is closed, so I assume you replace it with the door open.
I love being a tenant. My garage door quit opening well, so I just called the landlord.
Yesterday I received a new furnace! Mmmm, is it nice & warm in here, now!
Good landlord!
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Neighbors saw me doing this on Thursday and told me how dangerous it was to be doing it yourself !!!!
When I lived in Chicago a neighbor installed and repaired overhead doors for a living, so I had a good education on the perils of working with these springs .
To have a service call to replace the broken spring is around $200US, that's labor and parts, I got the spring for $70US .
...I know there is tension on the spring when the door is closed, so I assume you replace it with the door open.
[size=11]Most often, the two coiled springs are located on the header for the garage door. As such, the door must be in the closed position to access the springs. Usually, there is a casting with four "tool holes" every 90 degrees; this is where you'll need two strong levers -flat-blade screwdrivers are what the oft injured home DIYers get in trouble with- to wind up tension on the new spring. The limited work area and the need to hold tension while tightening the casting is where accidents happen.[/size]
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Neighbors saw me doing this on Thursday and told me how dangerous it was to be doing it yourself !!!!
When I lived in Chicago a neighbor installed and repaired overhead doors for a living, so I had a good education on the perils of working with these springs .
To have a service call to replace the broken spring is around $200US, that's labor and parts, I got the spring for $70US .
In your original post, you don't mention having previous experience with these springs, nor do you tell us what was involved.
I know there is tension on the spring when the door is closed, so I assume you replace it with the door open.
I love being a tenant. My garage door quit opening well, so I just called the landlord.
Yesterday I received a new furnace! Mmmm, is it nice & warm in here, now!
Good landlord!
To replace the spring, you need to de-tension the other spring, if the door has one .
Next, the cable pulleys at each end of the tube they have two set screws on them loosen the screws .
The tensioning end of each spring has two set screws that holds the fitting to the tube, loosen the screws .
There's a center bearing/support for the tube, the springs have a cast fitting that is bolted to it and to the other spring if you have one, take the nuts off and remove the bolts .
Move the tube to one side to get the tube out of the bearing supports at each end of the tube .
Remove the pulley from the free end .
Slide the spring off of the tube .
After making sure you have the correct spring for the side you are working on, slide the spring back onto the tube with the fitting that has the bolt holes, going on first .
Put the cable pulley back on the tube .
Move the tube so it goes back into the bearing supports at each end of the tube
Reinstall the bolts at the center bearing and tighten the nuts .
At the cable pulleys, put the cable back on one pulley and wind the cable onto the groove in the pulley, tighten the set screws .
Put a set of locking pliers on the tube to prevent the tube from moving and un-raveling the cable you just put on .
On the remaining pulley re-install the cable on the pulley and wing the cable until it's got no slack .
Tighten the set screws .
Now comes the some what dangerous part, re-tensioning the springs .
There are four holes in the cast fitting at the outboard ends of the spring .
Here in the US, these holes are .5 inches in diameter (12mm) .
You need two steel rods to tension the spring about two feet long .
Insert a steel rod into one of the holes, rotate the spring away from you, when the rod touches the board or what ever is there, insert the other rod into a hole and continue to rotate the spring .
If you have two springs, bring one spring up to four turns, then tighten the two set screws on the fitting, then go to the other spring and bring it up to four turns and tighten the set screws .
Remove the locking pliers from the tube before trying to move the door .
You need to keep tensioning the springs equally, until the door is 'weightless' the spring tension overcomes the weight of the door .
Move the door through the full open position to check for proper movement and no binding .
If it feels good, reconnect the door operator ans see how it works .
The springs need lubrication, a light oil on the coils will help extend the life of the spring .
When you have the cables free, check them for broken strands and general condition .