The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Justin B. on August 04, 2008, 03:02:21 PM
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The junkyard refugee needed a new shift lever so I decided AutoCad and a CNC plasma cutter might come to the rescue. This shifter, in conjunction with one of my adjustable shift selector rods, will provide about as much adjustability as is possible, I think... The shift rod allows a wide range of adjustment on the lever angle and the shifter is adjustable for overall length. I'm thinking about making a few up for sale as soon as I can clean up my welds and figure out how to reduce my labor expenditure.
It is constructed from 3/16" steel, I weld in a machined "hub" and, press in an oilite bronze bushing. The dimensions are such that it will utilize the stock pivot bolt. I've also thought about building them out of stainless steel, but it might not be worth the additional expense.
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i have thought about a heel toe set up, never rode with one so i dont know if i would like it, the cool thing with yours Justin is you can still use you toe up and down so yo have a choice.
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My '81 R100RT came with one (factory BMW) and I really didn't care for it. I had ridden for almost 30 years with a regular shifter and never really gave the "upgrade" a chance, I suppose. The stock item wasn't as comfortable to upshift with the toe due to the shape of the front "peg". Some people really like them and I e-Bayed the one that came on my '81 RT for well over $100 and could have sold a dozen more if I'd had them!
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i see you made some nice peges also. i used some cheap sockets for my pegs ;D
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Only takes a few minutes to turn them down, and drill 'n' tap on the lathe...
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...as soon as I can clean up my welds....
One word. TIG
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Don't got a TIG... I can MIG a nice looking bead in a straight line but it looks like a mud-dauber attacked it if I have to stop/start and go in a circle! :P
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One of the guys on Boxerworks was looking for a heel-toe shifter, as he was having surgery on his left ankle which would leave him with no ability to pivot his ankle.
http://www.boxerworks.com/phorum/read.php?f=1&i=217995&t=217995
I don't know his current status. This looks like just what he was looking for.
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oh wow....i just got the lightbulb. so if i got one, i could slam it down (up) into gears faster and maybe miss those false neutrals? maybe? somebody agree with me so i can justify buyin this thing...
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oh wow....i just got the lightbulb. so if i got one, i could slam it down (up) into gears faster and maybe miss those false neutrals? maybe? somebody agree with me so i can justify buyin this thing...
Yes.
Feel better? ;)
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What is wrong with false neutrals? It's fun! up, up, down, up, just a little bit down, and here you go :D
I hate it! >:(
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Justin
could u fab up somethin' that would allow shifting when feet are on the rear pegs.
as in a rear set that allows u to keep the ability to shift normally as well?
Troy
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Justin
could u fab up somethin' that would allow shifting when feet are on the rear pegs.
as in a rear set that allows u to keep the ability to shift normally as well?
Troy
[size=18]Ooooooo!!![/size] I would take one of those!!! 8-)
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Never thought about it, lemme think on it for a while...
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Justin
could u fab up somethin' that would allow shifting when feet are on the rear pegs.
as in a rear set that allows u to keep the ability to shift normally as well?
Troy
Yeah, I like that idea! I usually ride with my feet on the passenger pegs and always have to remember to move my feet.... :P
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second that
greetings from a partly sunny north
trolle
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I would go for somthin' that allowed rear peg shiftin' while keepin' the front lever. I'll even offer up my bike as a test bed. That bike you got the heel / toe setup on Justin looks like it don't run ;D
rich
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It runs but is ugly and not registered...
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Neat shifter, I like it! Don't distress over the tig vs. mig deal. Any prototype is about function first - right? Judging visually that weld is an inert gas weld with like .045 wire and it is w-e-l-d-e-d. Maybe try this, use a little .035 or smaller flux-cored wire and take the gas nozzle off your mig gun. This will allow a bit more precision as the nozzle is gone and the contact tip is all you have to deal with. The contact tip is electrically hot but it is easy enough to keep it off the work or you could just insulate it. Don't try a continuos weld... just a quick puddle then release and do it again. Kind of like spot welding but the object is to do a series of circular spots each of which covers the last about 40-50%. Done quickly the puddle never cools enough to prevent admix of the filler with the previous dot of weld. You'll get the hang of it quickly and produce welds that rival the appearance of any tig weld - will kinda look like a stack of tiny dimes wrapped around the flange of your shifter. I own 3 tig machines and I am well aware of the public mystique with tig processes... sure tig works great on al, ss, c-moly etc. but mig does too and is way faster and certainly the standard of production now; after all, tig is little more than an electric torch! If you want to stay with a continuous gas weld build a spindle fixture to turn the piece on and have a buddy turn the whole thing while you stay in place and weld - or a fixture to hold the gun while you pull the trigger and turn the work. Just my long-winded two-cents worth...
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It was actually with .035 or .030 wire, I'll have to look at the spool. My problem is that one the arc is struck and my lens darkens I can't really see anything except the arc. I need to put a flood light on the work so I can see what I am welding on. I had the same problem in school, nice pretty beads but I would start getting off track after an inch or so. I'll try the "stacked circle" method. I made another attempt the other day, gobbed on a bunch of weld, then put it back in the lathe to bevel the weld bead - jury's still out on that method. I really need a rotary table for my mill then I could mount the part and use a ball end-mill to clean things up. I think I feel a purchase coming on...