The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: scuba on August 05, 2008, 05:37:35 PM
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The bike: '83 R65, 34000km
Steps were: valves, ignition, synchronising carbs. BUT!
After synchronising, one carb (left, if it's important) is laging behind when I release throttle. For long time, I synchronize carbs with self-made oil-in-clear-plastic-tube-on-a-yardstick gizmo, or as you all call it, 5$ synchronizer. This time, after performing usual synchronizing, I got same vacuum on both carbs at idle and on 3000 revs but when I release the throttle, right carb suck more (oil in the R tube goes high) or left carb is laging (oil on L side goes low) and it takes a second or two for engine to get into balance again. Cables are ok, free play and stuff, and both carbs opens at the same time and keep balance.
Carbs are in good condition generaly, fuel level adjusted, both were cleaned two months ago, fuel lines are ok, new air filter and cables.
Any wild guess?
Thanks in advance
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Are you only talking about the visual from the oil in the balancer, or does the engine sound weird, too?
If it is only the visual, I would not worry about it.
There might be a leak on one side that is causing this.
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What Rob said, or maybe a teeny tiny hole in a diaphragm or diaphragm not quite seated properly, maybe a slight
"kink" in the jet needle or burr in the needle jet - are both cylinders' valves adjusted exactly the same ?
Depending on what you are running for oil/fluid in your balancer, the difference may be not enough to bother, if the engine
sounds otherwise fine. If you are running ATF or similar in your home made synchronizer setup, and there are no leaks, remember
that the density of ATF is 12-15x LESS than mercury, so a difference of an inch would be equal to a difference of only 1/15 of an inch
of mercury if using mercury sticks or devices calibrated to mercury equivalent readings.
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It's only visual difference. Oil in the tube is ATF (rubin red and looks gorgeous against morning sun ;D )
The engine itself runs smooth and obviously is not bothered by this. I'll check and recheck for leaks. This was the first time that something like it happened so better to ask if someone knows something more.
Thank You, folks
p.s. since my bike is blue, I was thinking about blue oil for "yardstick" to match the bike. Any sugestions other than copper sulfate? hahahahahahaha
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...Oil in the tube is ATF (rubin red and looks gorgeous against morning sun ... I was thinking about blue oil for "yardstick" to match the bike.
OhBoy... another artist joins us. Me? I like all my zip ties to match. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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The only blue stuff I can think of off hand is ATE Super Blue high performance brake fluid...
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you'll make yerself nutz trying to get it perfect-O. Main thing is that the fluid [Mine is RED ATF on a yellow ruler, very nice] balances at warm idle and at 3kRPM[size=11] No high idle when warmed up? forgetaboutit! Oh, to match your bike color there is a motor oil called Royal Purple.
rich[/size]
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Forgot about that stuff, I've got the Royal Purple Synthetic 80w140 gear lube in one of the bikes - can't remember which... :P Wuz a Pep Boyz and they had one quart left at the same price as the Mobil 1 75w90, wish they'd had more...
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I can sync mine by just listening to it now!!i guess being a musician has given me that gift,it it's in 5/8 then it sounds as rough as a badger's a*s,but 4/4 is music to my ears!! 8-)
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hahahahaha, more detail for oil than for the carbs. I like that ;D
Blue oil was just a joke, of course. And for high revs on warm engine, the 3k was for just a second to check balance. Nothing else. Fortunately in front of my garage is always pretty windy. Pure microclimate stuff. That gives me chance to set the engine brief period of time longer.
But hey, thanks again for ideas for oil 8-)
blue on yellow. not a bad stuff.
Sorry folks, I must ride now. C U later (as soon as something goes bad with 28y old bike)