The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: beemer on July 29, 2008, 05:54:35 PM
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Anyone got any tips on changing your own tyes? ;)
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I'm not experienced in relacing tires (tyres !), one accessory that I have seen is a heavy plastic guard that you insert between the tire and rim to hopefully prevent gouging the rim with the tire irons.
I've been told that the snowflake rims are quite 'soft', and are easily damaged, I've gone to a motorcycle dealer here, that refused to replace a tire on my R65 rim, due to the high probability of them damaging it.
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Bob
So how then do you get new tires on?
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The guards are about 4-6 inches long in a V or U shape in cross section, and you move them along the rim as you remove, or install the tire.
Here's a link for an illustration of the parts : www.americanmototire.com
Select accessories, then rim protectors.
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You need dome soapy water to help lube the tire on and off the rim. (How soapy I don't know). Also helps to have a bead breaker. This is all hearsay as I have yet to actually to this. Just lucky I guess.
Someone else please chime in with better information please!
TTFN,
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Just color me part of the lucky club.
(man I hate acknowledging that...)
I have mine changed at the local bike accessories store. They have never said anything, and they have never removed too much of the dirt on my rims!
I would not mind learning how to change a tire. The benefits are multiple:
1) you know what you are doing when "your time" comes along the road.
2) You can save A LOT of money, by buying online.
3) YOU are in command when it comes time to balance them. You can take the time to find the heavy spot on your rim, and then compensate for it during the final adjustments, be they weights or moving the tire around.
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I have changed/mounted/balanced many hundreds of automotive tires, and hundreds of bicycle tires (no balancing on those),
but only 1 motorcycle tire, and I don't think that qualifies me as any authority on motorcycle tire changing. I could do it if I had to,
but I don't think that I'd get it done in anything resembling a speedy/efficient manner.
I also gotta look for some new m/c tire irons and rim protectors as I foolishly left my last good set with my R100RT when I sold it.
A tire machine makes things SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier, but who among us has the $$ to keep one of those around
in the garage ?
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NHMAF,
That's pretty much the problem with most riders, you change tires once every 3-5 years, and it just doesn't make much sense to purchase the equipment to make the job easy !
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I bought a Harbor Freight tire changer with motorcycle attachment, a Mojo Bar and Mojo Blocks for the attachment, a Mark Parnes balancer, weights, 15" spoons, rim savers and tire lube. So far I have changed front and rear Goldwing tires and a Front R65 tire. I'm getting better at it the more I do. If you buy the Mojo Bar pay close attention as to how it is to be used.
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Anyone got any tips on changing your own tyes? ;)
Here's a link to a DIY ghetto-style bead breaker for motorcycles.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/bead-breaker/motorcycle-tire-bead-breaker.htm
I've gotta take my bride's car to be inspected right now but I'll post today my learned tricks on swapping tires on my snowflake R65. Be back shortly... Hang on. It ain't no biggie. ;)
Monte
OK, I'm back. Car passed emissions test and it sure ought to... Recently paid $638.00, just for the cat-not labor, for a rebuilt catalytic converter due to the failure of some attached electronics. Grrr. Extended warranty did not cover because exhaust systems are considered 'disposables' just like tires and wiper blades. Double grrr...
So, to your tire changing exercise. I recently removed the rock hard vintage Metzlers from my R65s snowflake rims. As to the rims being easily damaged, that would be from the changer's experience level, tools used, precautions taken, and deficits in his gene pool.
If you wish, you can make your own rim guards. Buy some large i.d. vinyl tubing -maybe around 0.75 inch- slit a piece about four inches long and you've got a rim guard! Make a few. Also suggest you grow a third hand so it'll be easier to fit them as you use your remaining two hands to work the tire spoons.
Two motorcycle tire spoons are needed. Three's better. WD40 is a good tire lube because it will eventually evaporate. Soapy water might lead to corrosion issues inside the wheel rim.
You will want to lay the tire across a couple 2x4s while you work on it. Must protect the brake disc from side loads and damage.
After that, it's a matter of getting the tire bead into the deepest part of the rim and then inserting a spoon across from the collapsed bead. Get one side off, remove the inner tube -if you're running them- and then pry off the second bead.
My narrower front tire was a booger to get off so I was not loking forward to the rear. Guess the wider rim helped because the rear came off "piece of cake". You may wish to begin with the rear tire removal to pick up some new skills before tackling the front.
Prepare to get dirty. Have plenty of work space so that when a spoon slips and cracks you across your knuckles, you'll have lottsa room to jump around. Someday, ask me how I learned this tip years ago.
No screwdrivers, at all, none, never! Want rim damage? That's how it happens. If we can simply save just one more snowflake...
Do it yourself and learn some new skills. You'll save some money and impress those who know you. 8-)
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I don't recall ever having somebody else install a tire for me. Like Crossrodes, I have the HF hardware, I make my own wheel balancers, but I have no idea what a "Mojo Bar" is. I use 3-4 12" irons and plenty of soapy water and use the HF rig for the bead breaker and as a fixture to hold onto the rim so I don't have to chase it around the floor. One thing that makes mounting easier is to use a couple of "C"-clamps to squeeze the tire together where you force the tire down into the "drop center" of the rim. This allows the tire to install that last 6 inches much easier.
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I have all the gear but not the inclination after "nipping" the tube the last time! The guys with the proper equipment at the tyre shop just make it look too easy. It's too much like hard work now.
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Justin the Mojo bar is shown in this series of photo's by Fred Harmon:
http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tirechange
The whole package that Fred shows is also very instructive. Fred produces some excellent videos for those that want to do their own maintenance and beyond on Honda Goldwings. In this case much of what he does with Goldwing rims and tires applies to the BMW.
Mike
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I put a new front tyre on a snowflake recently. I found it much more difficult than previous tyre changes on spoked rims but it can be done. The old tyre was 27 years old and very hard so I cut it off to avoid damaging the rim.
As others have said when you fit a new tyre you must get the tyre beads into the centre well which is quite narrow on a snowflake. Unless you do this you won't stand a chance. I would also clean and polish inside the rim before fitting the new tyre. It will help make seating the beads easier. Be prepared to use lots of lubricant and inflate to 50 psi. To check the tyre is seated properly there is a guide rib which should be concentric with the rim.
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Just FYI I had to inflate my tire to over 100psi on the snowflake rim to get it to seat properly. The GW tires seated much easier on the polished aluminum rims that I have on that bike. My snowflake rims are not polished so that may be the difference.
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Hey Barry I see from your profile that you are from Cheshire. I'm just curious as to where in Cheshire you live. I had a sailing friend and also a cousin that lived there. I had other cousins that lived in Wallasey years ago. I'm originally a scouse (but I can't help that).
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...As others have said when you fit a new tyre you must get the tyre beads into the centre well which is quite narrow on a snowflake...
It's not necessary to have both beads in the rim's "valley" at the same time. I place one foot on the sidewall to hold the bead in place and then proceed with the spoons at a point across from my dirty tennis shoe.
Barry quote: "I would also clean and polish inside the rim before fitting the new tyre. It will help make seating the beads easier.'
Very helpful to do this. Here's a link to a recent "tire changing topic" I posted that has some additional tips. http://suraklyn.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1215020335
And another: "...and inflate to 50 psi. To check the tyre is seated properly there is a guide rib which should be concentric with the rim."
Both myself and Justin had to go to 100psi to get the beads to seat properly. Be patient and they'll seat with an audible "pop". Just for clarification, the bead guide is a small raised casting on the tire's sidewall that should end up, when the bead is properly seated, equidistant from the rim.
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I have all the gear but not the inclination after "nipping" the tube the last time!
On occasion, BikeMike, my problem is related to "nipping" before I start a project. [smiley=beer.gif]
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I can recommend Glenfiddich or McCallum's to nip instead of nipping the tubes when changing your own tyres! ;)
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Monte, I have found that if you squeeze the tire with clamps and get both beads down into the drop-center the tire almost "falls" into place with little iron work needed. I have nicked up tire beads (adctually had chunks come off) until learning this trick. Just thought I'd pass it along...
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Interesting tire changing pix. I have never used the long tire-iron/tool that came with the changer, I'll have to give it a whirl next time. I see he uses wood blocks to squeeze the tire down into the center, this is where I use a couple of clamps to squeeze the tire together to accomplish the same thing. I doubt, however, that I would have a C-clamp that would fit over meats that wide...
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I like the C clamp idea. I'll try that next time.
If you're going to try the wooden blocks make sure they are wide enough to force the tire from the rim to the well. In the case of the GW that equates to 3/4". The GW has a wide well. You made need a wider block to force the tire on a snowflake front rim into the well which is not so wide at all.
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Lot's of good info here!!i got the tyre irons,now i need to get my friend to come over to push the beads down for me,he weighs in a 26 stone ;D
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Monte, I have found that if you squeeze the tire with clamps and get both beads down into the drop-center the tire almost "falls" into place with little iron work needed. I have nicked up tire beads (adctually had chunks come off) until learning this trick. Just thought I'd pass it along...
So, Justin... where was this handy tip when I was struggling to get that freakin' front tire off, huh? Oh well, I'll file it away for future use. Thanks for thinking of poor little me, working in the heat, banged up knuckles... :'( Poke me with a fork, I think I'm done.
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Well, you coulda came down and used my HF tire changer gizmo...
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Well, you coulda came down and used my HF tire changer gizmo...
Next time, fer sure! ;)
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Monte, I have found that if you squeeze the tire with clamps and get both beads down into the drop-center the tire almost "falls" into place with little iron work needed. I have nicked up tire beads (adctually had chunks come off) until learning this trick. Just thought I'd pass it along...
So, Justin... where was this handy tip when I was struggling to get that freakin' front tire off, huh? Oh well, I'll file it away for future use. Thanks for thinking of poor little me, working in the heat, banged up knuckles... :'( Poke me with a fork, I think I'm done.
I wonder if i could get the wheel and tyre into my bench vice and clamp it up to break the beads?anyone tried this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XArpY_hSdk&NR=1
Watch all 3 parts!!! [smiley=1drink.gif]
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I use my bench vise to break the bead. Usually one side breaks free before the other; after that I use a board to protect the rim on the broken beaded side and do the side that didn't come free the first time.
Freaking gibberish but I don't know how to put it better right now, sorry. :-[
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I use my bench vise to break the bead. Usually one side breaks free before the other; after that I use a board to protect the rim on the broken beaded side and do the side that didn't come free the first time.
Freaking gibberish but I don't know how to put it better right now, sorry. :-[
Ah!good,thanks for the reply,i'm waiting for some rim protectors to arrive in the post then i will give it a go!i bought a new discounted Meztler for the front,so that's the one i'm going to change,not sure if i should remove the brake disk though?i have a twin disk 65LS,any ideas?
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Well we have 3 active bikes in the family, so lots of changes. Generally, go through one set of tires per bike per year.
It is a good thing to know how to do it, plus carrying the tools in case you get a flat on the road.
I only use the tire irons in the BMW tool kit. A third would be handy at times, but not totally necessary. I don't think you need anything longer, but that is just my view.
The R65 front is the hardest one of all the bikes, just because of narrow cross section which makes it hard to push into the center well.
On the road, and at home I use the centerstand to break the bead. It can be done by one person, but it is a lot easier with two. Take off wheel, STRAP CENTERSTAND, balance bike and tip it to one side. Have someone slide the wheel under one leg as close to the bead as possible. Stand bike upright. Turn wheel over to do other side if this is for a new tire.
As others have mentioned use lots of lubricant, soapy water, commercial tire slip etc. Push bead into center and start levering at opposite side. Use the flat part of lever, not the cupped end.
When reinstalling, use the cupped part of the lever, and don't allow the lever to go more than 90 degrees to the wheel, ie vertical. It is when you let the lever go past vertical that you can pinch the tube.
Another trick I have found is it helps if you leave the tire out in the sun for half an hour or more before you start, they seat a lot easier if the rubber is warm, than when cold. I have also resorted to a paint remover heat gun to warm up a recalcitrant seating tire.
If this is a new tire/ tube etc. I put the tube in the tire first (lightly pumped up) You can then easily put the valve stem through the wheel, catch it with a nut, and push the first bead over. With lube, you can almost push a tire on totally by hand. If not just use the lever for the last few inches.
I use a homemade static tire balancer.
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The "trick" that stopped me from pinching so many tubes was to put just a little air in it. Kind of "puffs" it out and makes it harder to snag with the tire iron...
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Well we have 3 active bikes in the family, so lots of changes. Generally, go through one set of tires per bike per year.
It is a good thing to know how to do it, plus carrying the tools in case you get a flat on the road.
I only use the tire irons in the BMW tool kit. A third would be handy at times, but not totally necessary. I don't think you need anything longer, but that is just my view.
The R65 front is the hardest one of all the bikes, just because of narrow cross section which makes it hard to push into the center well.
On the road, and at home I use the centerstand to break the bead. It can be done by one person, but it is a lot easier with two. Take off wheel, STRAP CENTERSTAND, balance bike and tip it to one side. Have someone slide the wheel under one leg as close to the bead as possible. Stand bike upright. Turn wheel over to do other side if this is for a new tire.
As others have mentioned use lots of lubricant, soapy water, commercial tire slip etc. Push bead into center and start levering at opposite side. Use the flat part of lever, not the cupped end.
When reinstalling, use the cupped part of the lever, and don't allow the lever to go more than 90 degrees to the wheel, ie vertical. It is when you let the lever go past vertical that you can pinch the tube.
Another trick I have found is it helps if you leave the tire out in the sun for half an hour or more before you start, they seat a lot easier if the rubber is warm, than when cold. I have also resorted to a paint remover heat gun to warm up a recalcitrant seating tire.
If this is a new tire/ tube etc. I put the tube in the tire first (lightly pumped up) You can then easily put the valve stem through the wheel, catch it with a nut, and push the first bead over. With lube, you can almost push a tire on totally by hand. If not just use the lever for the last few inches.
I use a homemade static tire balancer.
That's great advice,thanks. :)