The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => General Announcements => Topic started by: pcarrick on October 28, 2011, 11:46:53 PM
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Hello from CA. Finally have my own bike. Always thought I would ride a BMW and now I have one: 1983 R65. Just purchased from original owner who bought it new in Jan. 1985.
Very cool(to me)! Good-to- excellent condition and I've put 25 miles on it since I got it last week. Will put up pictures, but really looks just like what I see here: black with snowflake wheels. Also a nice set of original 22lb. capacity cases.
Having anxiety already over whether I am up to the reality of carburation and maintaining it all by myself(!)
Have not figured out the proper method of starting the engine:Choking--1/2 choke--no choke,etc. Seems to be luck to get it to start and run without a lot of tria :-?land error. PO said always full choke even in mild to warm (California)days.
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Hi and welcome to the forum. Here you'll find some very friendly people, lots of good advice and an amazing amount of technical help. I have found this site to be very helpful for me even though I thought I knew my bike well as I've had my R65 since 1992 and rebuilt it once already in 1996 and I'm in the process of doing it all again. The site has been indispensable for me.
About the starting on the choke. On my bike I find that I have to leave the throttle closed when initially firing it up. Once the motor has caught I usually give the throttle a quick short "blip" just to make sure it's firing okay. Every other bike I've ever owned has always needed a little throttle to go with the choke to get it going but not my Beemer. I hope that helps.
Enjoy the bike my friend ................ ;)
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Welcome
On my flatop Bings the choke seems a crude device and the engine doesn't like running on choke at all but it is needed for starting in cold weather so I have adopted 3 different starting methods.
Summer temperatures above 20 Deg C - No choke needed it starts instantly and runs well enough to pull away in a few seconds.
Winter temperatures below 10 Deg C - Full choke needed to start and immediately to half choke for no more than 60 secs or so usually much less. Then choke off to ride away.
In between summer and winter temperatures are more of a problem as attempting to start with half choke doesn't work for me and although it will fire on full choke the mixture is so rich the engine will die within a few strokes. I have another method - Full choke and dab the starter button briefly. The intention is not to start the engine just to draw some extra fuel through into the carb venturi. Then choke fully off and press the start button again as normal. It never fails.
As has already been said throttle must be closed while cranking the engine otherwise the choke doesn't function. The as soon as the engine fires catch it with some throttle as normally there is no fast idle effect. Choke function seems to vary on different models and years of airheads for example many people can ride away with the choke on but I can't at least not at any sane temperature. Be prepared to experiment and figure out what works best for you. When you get it right the engine should fire up almost instantly. If cranking for several seconds is needed something is not right.
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One thing that will complicate the starting procedure, is to open the throttle before the engine has fired .
Resist the temptation to do so .
Usual starting for me, is for full 'CHOKE', then hit the starter, when it fires, add a little throttle to get it running, then reduce the 'CHOKE' to the half detent.
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Grateful for all the immediate help. Thanks for encouragement and the welcome. I'll try all suggestions and when I figure it out I'll post my discovery/method. :)
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If you do run into any problems that are beyond your capabilities, there are a few airhead friendly repair businesses in the San Francisco Bay area .
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Welcome to the herd, Lowlander.
The choke lever on your Airhead is a bit of a misnomer as it's not really a traditional choke.
The lever operates an enrichener circuit built into the carburetor. It's actually a small carburetor within the primary carb, hence the starting problems created by twisting the throttle while the enrichener is engaged.
The enrichener circuit even has its own fuel reservoir within the float bowl. If you drop the bowls, you'll note a long brass tube that extends into the enrichener circuit's fuel reservoir. At the bottom of this small "bowl" is a tiny brass "jet" that permits the enrichener reservoir to maintain the same fuel level as in the primary bowl. If this small jet is clogged with sediment or varnish from evaporated fuel, starting will continue to be a problem.
It's an easy check to confirm fuel is available for the senrichener "choke" circuit.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2Fbowlvent.jpg&hash=65c063b41f1a9c7ccb68da1b4a6641bd6d3e8e37)
Monte
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Welcome Lowlander, once you get the "touch" for your bike you will generally not have a problem. Remember to check the position of your fuel petcock. I used to get confused about which way was off or on so I would be cranking away with the fuel shut off :-X It only took a few times before I got that on figured out 8-) Have fun and send pictures. D2
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Okay, so far it starts if I do this: full. Choke,quick stab of starter, then no choke. When it fires , a small bit of throttle to keep it running then set at half choke and ride away, choke off after a minute or so(outside air was 73 degrees Fahrenheit ). You all gave me the encouragement to try and find a reference point. Happy riding then ensued! :)
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The choke lever on your Airhead is a bit of a misnomer as it's not really a traditional choke.
Monte
All that is true, but mine says "CHOKE" right on it.
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Okay, so far it starts if I do this: full. Choke,quick stab of starter, then no choke. When it fires , a small bit of throttle to keep it running
Glad that worked for you. I put it down to full choke providing too much enrichment. There's nothing like starting a bike with an audience If I do the full choke and dab the starter bit when some one is watching I feel I have to explain " it's not going to start I'm just priming the carbs " which adds a bit of mystery.
Once you have the knack it's kinda nice that you can start it instantly where someone strange to the bike might not. Call it character. I once had a big single that had a starting sequence involving finding TDC and operating a valve decompressor. It looked complicated and impressive but was 2nd nature and effortless to the owner. Not so to the mechanic who did the annual MOT test even though he did the test 12 years on the trot.
BTW we all know it's really an enricher but we continue to call it a choke for convenience.
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Barry, my Dad had a Matchless 500 single (Scrambler)and that compression release and TDC stuff sure brings back memories for me as I stood there in awe as Dad got the bike going for an occasional outing. As for my new bike, your method really got me going in the right direction..I will continue to experiment and record my learnings for the other newbies who may stumble as I have. Cheers!
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The choke lever on your Airhead is a bit of a misnomer as it's not really a traditional choke.
Monte
All that is true, but mine says "CHOKE" right on it.
Yes, but only because there's not enough space on the control to spell out "ENRICHENER CIRCUIT".:D
Monte
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The choke lever on your Airhead is a bit of a misnomer as it's not really a traditional choke.
Monte
All that is true, but mine says "CHOKE" right on it.
Yes, but only because there's not enough space on the control to spell out "ENRICHENER CIRCUIT".:D
Monte
Correction Monte
Anreichererstromkreis
Lou [smiley=lolk.gif]
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Let's see if this looks any different then the rest of the r65's
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Apologies :P
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Wow! Thats'a BIG, uh... motorcycle.
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Let's see if this looks any different then the rest of the r65's
Looks like you have the original rear shocks and they are set at maximum pre-load - you a heavy weight Lowlander or have you been carrying a pillion ? ;D
And you use the engine kill switch. My memory is not good enough to do that. I forget and crank away wondering why it won't start. On average I already knock the kill switch off accidentally about once every two years which is bad enough.
Actually it's probably good practice to regularly use the kill switch as the contacts get exercised which should keep them clean.
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Is the paint still the original coat? That is one shiny R65.
And wow, I'm definitely painting my saddle bag carriers matte black soon.
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It is the original paint. Always garaged and careful previous owner. Had some trouble posting pictures correctly:looks fine when viewed from an iPad not so on my laptop(pc). ? Being a new rider I have been schooled in the msf way. Drilled into me to use kill switch..remember being a newbie?
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Previous owner was heavy..Should I reset them?
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Previous owner on my r65 was big and had the monoshock set on the heaviest setting. I reset it to position 2 and it rides a lot better. Plus, I have short legs and now I can reach the ground. :)
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Previous owner was heavy..Should I reset them?
I would experiment with each setting to see how the bike rides and handles. For me riding solo on position 3 results in almost no laden sag and there should be some. The change in ride height is between position 1 and 3 is very noticeable.
The riders handbook states:
Position 1 for solo riding
Position 2 for passenger or heavy load
Position 3 for maximum load (I take that to mean carrying 425 lbs)
I always ride solo on position 1 and increase pre-load when caryying a pillion. It's needed because on the one occasion I forgot the shocks bottomed out on severe bumps.
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Nice R65...
Something no one has yet mentioned.
BMW's are hard starting when the valves are tight..
Check those valves and get them set correctly...Mine went from almost not starting to starting instantly after the valves were set properly...
I also noticed your kill switch is thrown... The kill switches are not very robust.. You'll be doing yourself a favor to use the key to shut off the engine...Leave that kill switch alone....Or one day you'll have a "no start" because of it..
John
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Appreciate the tip on the kill switch. Am having trouble with starts again. Hear it might be a timing issue. Very easy to flood the carbs. Don't have any luck with any combination.
I did take the bowls off and cleaned out the debris and sprayed everything with carb cleaner. Seemed to help somewhat. Also, I have played a bit with the idle stop set screw due to a very low idle speed requiring me to sit on the bike to keep it from dying at idle. But, now have I screwed up the synchronisation of the carbs: Backfires on re-starts :-?
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I have played a bit with the idle stop set screw due to a very low idle speed requiring me to sit on the bike to keep it from dying at idle. But, now have I screwed up the synchronisation of the carbs: Backfires on re-starts
If the idle is too low when cold then that's normal. It shouldn't idle properly until fully warmed up. You have to hold the engine on the the throttle until then.
If by backfire you mean popping in the exhaust that usually indicates a weak mixture and will disappear when the engine warms up. If it's a real backfire through the carb I'd be checking the ignition timing and advance mechanism.
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Single disc?
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Thanks, Barry. I am going to try and get it running and take it to a Bmw "Guy" in Sonoma and hopefully get things sorted out to some baseline spot for me as a newb. I have been having more and more difficulty getting it started since I purchased it last month. Being a total novice, it could be me. Who knows(?). The backfire definitely sounded like it was coming out of the mufflers based on the ring in the tail pipes ! [smiley=undecided.gif]
It is a single disc, 1983( DOB 12/09/83).
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Just got my bike back. Carbs all cleaned out ,synched, adjusted idle. Carbs were misaligned (twisted). Also,valves were tight. The coil was defective causing it to intermittently fire on only the right cylinder.
The Gas tank is loose. Any good diagrams for removing and re-securing it?
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Found the diagram here but searched google to end up back here : ) !
Might add that the visit to the shop set me back some serious coin. Guess I'll be learning the rest on my own time. Now I have an incentive to do my own servicing. It did include two new tires,tubes and a new coil. Good to have pro's nearby to get me on the road again. I bought it to ride it (At least in the beginning!).
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The Gas tank is loose. Any good diagrams for removing and re-securing it?
There can't be many easier tanks to remove than ours:-
Disconnect the fuel line.
Flip the bale wire up at the back
Pull the tank backwards to release it from the front rubber buffer
and off it comes. With practice 60 secs tops and most of that is the fuel line.
If the tank is loose you probably have some of the rubber bits missing. Rear ones should be glued to the tank not the frame.
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Thank you. Found the bale and off she came. Yep, missing rubber bits. Found rubber pipe insulation at Lowes hardware supply,which is a close replacement to the bit of rubber that WAS THERE!.....; {.
Now she starts by full choke when very cold outside(<40 F) and then I reduce to half choke and she just purrs so sweet. I should probably install a fuel line filter. What size is the question. Why they don't fit them at the factory is curious to me (?).
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You should have a filter inside the tank, as the top part of the tap. You will need to empty the tank and drop the tap to see if yours is still intact. You do not need two.
Rev. Light
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The long fine mesh filter that drops over the fuel tap straws is missing on mine if I ever had one but I do have the smaller inner filter that fits inside the bottom of the fuel tap.
Aftermarket in line filters can in general look distinctly non stock if not ugly. As long as I continue to have no problems with the current set up that's a good enough reason for me not to fit one.
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O.K.! Good. I'll give a look in the daylight.Thanks, Steve..I Agree, Barry, the after-market filters are clumsy-ugly..I'll go for the tap filter. I was tickled to discover tonight that a full-face helmet fits in the hard bags on the bike(!). Apparently back in the good old 80's BMW wasn't concerned about theft. No way to lock the hard bags to(or shut) either on or off the bike.
Is it that way with others of the vintage?
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I have the original set of BMW luggage that was supplied with the bike from new. The lids on the cases definitely lock. Haven't had the frames fitted for a while now so I'm not certain but I don't think the cases lock to the frames on the bike.
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Hi Barry: my hard bags have no provision for locking either to frames or securing contents. Still perplexed by that..
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Hi Lowlander,
I've got a great mechanic here in Santa Rosa. He rebuilt the upper end of my R65 after it sucked a valve :'( But now my bike runs better than when I got it. It even starts easily when cold now. ;)
You can e-mail me or PM me. Maybe I can help you out a bit on the little stuff that you are having trouble with, like those bags. Mine lock to the frame and the cases lock. But I still put a tie down strap around the case and frame just to make sure.
We'll have to compare them next to each other. Mine's an '83 also.
Cheers!