The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => General Announcements => Topic started by: mattsmith on September 13, 2010, 08:43:33 AM
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Hello
I have had an R65 for about 10 years. I acquired it from a guy at work who was getting on a bit and decided he was too old to ride anymore so asked me if I knew anyone who wanted to buy it. As my main bike was a early Triumph speed triple, I wasn't that interested in it for myself - until I rode it! It came in very handy for commuting and winter rallies.
Due to changing jobs and moving house 7yrs ago I didn't need a bike to commute anymore so its main use was in foul weather for winter rallies. Then the clutch started to slip so its been in the garage ever since.
Last year the Triumph and myself came off worst following an encounter with some deposits on the road. I'm pretty much recovered but the Triumph didn't make it, so now I'm looking to get the R65 back on the road to see where my head is at regarding riding again. Have removed the final drive and gearbox to reveal an oil splattered clutch. I intended to replace both oil seals but am struggling to remove the thrust plate to get to the crankcase seal. I have been advised that it will only be the gearbox seal that needs replacing. As I was unsure whether I should chance it and rebuild I sought further advise. On seeing this site and its contents I thought a second opinion may be at hand. Also noticed the topics regarding the flywheel bolts torque settings and whether the bolts require replacing (as stated in the Hayne's manual). Can anyone say if this also appies to the driveshaft bolts.
As usual with me and motorbike mechanics - the more you learn the more you realise you don't know!!
Hairymatt1
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Welcome Hairymatt, first thing I have to say, is to stop right where you are, if you have the flywheel removed .
With the flywheel removed, the crankshaft can move forward slightly and dislodge a thrust washer that is on two pins at the back of the engine case .
You need to remove the front cover, place a short portion of a 6mm allen wrench in the bolt head that holds the alternator on, then put the front cover back on so it prevents the crankshaft from moving .
If this easily deform washer gets off of it's pins, when you put the flywheel back on, the crank shaft will be locked up !!
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+! what Bob Roller said - AND- to fix it requires pulling the sump and at least 1 cylinder off if you bend/mangle that thrust washer by jamming it with the crankshaft. Soooo, stop right there and follow his advice, or get a suitable sized nylon bolt that you can trim to length and jam into the front of the rotor bolt (allen head) so the front engine cover can be screwed mostly back on to hold it tight. You can do a search on this forum, or on the BMWMOA forum for crankshaft blocking or rotor blocking for more clues/advice.
It is likely that either the oil pump seal (under a rectangular cover behind the flywheel when you remove that after blocking the crank as mentioned above) needs to be replaced or the rear main seal (which goes around the "cap" that is screwed onto the end of the crankshaft which the flywheel bolts onto) needs to be replaced. There is a method (and a special tool) for carefully seating the rear main seal properly - must be to the proper depth and "square". Oil pump cover seal isn't so finicky to replace - but examine both areas carefully for source of leak.