The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => General Announcements => Topic started by: Bonneybear on July 08, 2007, 12:10:02 AM
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Just got back from a 7 hour drive, with my brand new....hmm,,,,,,,.1980 R65. very clean 20k miles. Brown w/brown seat {ugly}. carbs need work, orig fuel lines. ft and rear shocks feel soft and spongy, compared to my old R100s. burned myleg on exhaust , been up since 3 am. I'll play with it tommorrow. It's been a long day. But hey, I got a beemer again :)
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Congrats, looks like you will have a full day of "greasy" ahead of you!. Attached is a maintenance checklist that I use:
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Whooo! Congrats on the new wheels, enjoy tinkering :)
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I bet you don't sleep long even though you are bushed from travel!! Have a great day..I know you will and you will learn to love Brown!!! Right Rob V.?
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Thanks guys, and for the list, Whats your favorite parts house , Im putting together a list of things I need.
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Congrats on the new bike ! I have done business with Bob's BMW in the Baltimore area, and had a good experience with them. Chicago BMW probably has the lowest prices, but actually getting the parts in hand could be up to 2 months on average. If you have any local BMW dealerships nearby, check them out to see if they support the old airhead bikes, some do,but sadly the majority don't.
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One of these days that brown seat will be considered a classic.
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Very Cool!!!!!! How about some pictures!
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Pictures are coming, It's apart right now. and the camera is out of town..... ;)
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My 1980 has served me well since 1991. Keep us posted as to your progress. The 1980 and 1979 model years are different than the later 81+ models. Did you get dome top carbs or flat tops?
The book says 150cc for the drive shaft oil but if you put more than 100cc in it *migrates* forward to the tranny!
Check the boot at the bottom of the speedo cable. Replace it if it looks anything other than perfect. Tiewrap the top of the boot or use some shrink wrap (from Radio Shack) to seal the topof this boot as it is a source of water in the drive shaft area (and tranny if you use more than 100cc of oil in the drive shaft). The same goes for the large drive shaft boot around the universal joint of the "propeller".
20K - Lube the spline. Read the Snowbum articles to get the up and up on this. Do not put grease on the frictionplate splines as pictured *incorrectly* in the Clymer manual. Put some Honda Moly 60 on the input splines of the tranny and a small drop on the clutch rod on the end of the same shaft (where it pokes out) or you will have only half a clutch (which is bad and expensive to fix).
If you do remove the clutch from the flywheel. There is no torque setting for the 6mm screws that hold it together. If you use more than 10 ft-lbs you will strip the threads (really expensive).
Flat top carbs are different in one respect from dome tops. There is a white plastic ring that holds the rubber diaphram to the slide. You will need a 100 watt light bulb to take this ring off (the heat will make it expand) and to put it back on (for the same reason.) If you just pry the thing off you stand a good chance of breaking it and guess what. You have to buy the whole unit. I don't believe you can buy these rings seperatly.
I can go on but if you come up against anything that doesn't look quite right or doesn't make sense - STOP - and ask a question here and we will try to keep you on the straight and narrow. 8-)
Excepting oil and tires. ;)
Congrats again.