The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: dewjantim on October 01, 2007, 06:41:28 AM
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I didn't like the way my R65 LS shifted gears. The shift linkage was a cheaply made piece of heavy wire with clips to hold it on. I purchased the later heim joint linkage which is a metal rod with adjustments on each end. The attachment points on the trans shifter lever and the foot lever must be drilled to accomidate the larger bolts from the new linkage. Be sure to use a really good drill bit on the trans lever, it is made of some kind of hardened steel and is REALLY HARD. I would recomment replacing the nuts on the new linkage with nylock nuts, one of mine came loose on a trip and the linkage fell off. The bike shifts much better now without all those false neutrals which I had before......Dew.
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Or, you can buy an even beefier replacement from me for less money! ;)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260165499439&rd=1
edit - Link above is real old, no longer valid...
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Thanks for the tip Justin...I bet I forgot this from some time in the past or have you just started making these. I am going to treat LRB and maybe I can avoid those nasty unwanted neutrals too.
LRB is going to have a top end job done so he will need a nice new shifter as a present for being brave.
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I've been making them for a couple of years, probably sold 70 to 80 of them.
You'll love your top-end job. My '81 R100 seemed like a new bike after that. On top of valve issues mine had large chunks of the NikaSil lining falling out that played hell with the compression... Make sure you inspect everything real good as I also had one lifter that had real bad spalling where it contacted the cam.
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Justin, sure wish I had known about you making these. I would have saved a few bucks and some drill bits too...... you making anything else I need to know about......Dew.
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I suppose with all of the other goodies going on the bike, I might have to (finally) get one of Justin's as well.
I never thought my box shifted poorly, but I do get occasional blanks between 2 and 3.
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I could with one of them for the RT. Think I'll email the seller and see if he will send them over the pond.
Doh! Hey Justin how much to send one over here?
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I've been charging between $3.50 and $3.75 for International First Class Mail. Unfurtunately, that mode has no kind of tracking or insurance. I think about the cheapest way to do that is to register it and that adds $8 or so to the postage. Only overseas shipments that have gotten lost, though, have been Spain (1), Italy (1), Phillippeans (1).
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Dew, I sell the stainless carb top screws, wheel balancers, and keys, mostly. I have been known to sell some other stainless hardware but I'm too lazy to put together a "kit", even though I have a good supply of probably all visible hardware in stainless. I might be badgered into making stainless steel axles but I would like to wait until I have road-tested one for a while to make sure they'll hold up. Someday I'll make one for a bike I ride more than just on occasion...
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About $40 then :) Thats cheeper than the late model BMW linkage, I have one please.I'll drop you an IM top sort out the details when I get home.
Cheers
Tony
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Dew, I sell the stainless carb top screws, wheel balancers, and keys, mostly. I have been known to sell some other stainless hardware but I'm too lazy to put together a "kit", even though I have a good supply of probably all visible hardware in stainless. I might be badgered into making stainless steel axles but I would like to wait until I have road-tested one for a while to make sure they'll hold up. Someday I'll make one for a bike I ride more than just on occasion...
Thanks Justin, I'll get back with you later.......Dew.
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As a very happy customer, I can vouch for the quality of Justin's shift linkage. I've only
a few hundred miles on the bike since I put it (and the rebuilt transmission) in, but it
shifts almost effortlessly now - maybe not quite as smooth as my KAwasaki, but ALOT
better than it used to.
Now that Tillie also has some sticky new BT45 sneakers, the experience is even better !
A little more dialing in of the carbs and I'll be closing in on airhead nirvana !
:)
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Thanks! I have 2 full years and about 10k miles on my "prototype" (the one in the auction picture) and it still works/looks like it did the day I installed it.
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Justin,
I bought the newer linkage from a local shop but took it back because:
1. I didn't really want to drill either lever
2. The linkage was threaded in such a way it would have worn away the aluminum lever hole
3. Not enough meat to over drill and add a bushing
The link above is dead. Could you give me more info on your linkage. I don't like pivots that are threaded. How does yours attach?
Thanks,
Rick
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I'll vouch for Justin's wheel balancer, a fine piece to have. Justin, I also can't get the link to werk. I think its time to get the shifter upgrade as well.
rich
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That link was just to an e-Bay listing which is long gone, this is one on my '81 R100. Cost is $30 and shipping/handling for domestic delivery is $3.50, if you want one just PM me. Also, this probably should be in the technical section so am moving it there...
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I have not installed my new shifter linkage from Justin, is drilling the current holes to a larger size necessary to install this new linkage ?
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The studs are 1/4 x 28 and I believe the holes are 6 mm (if you currently have the factory adjustable rod) so they need to be opened up just a hair. But, if you are switching from the "wire" type the holes are smaller than 6 mm so they would need to be drilled for the factory replacement selector rod as well...
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Thanks Justin, just wondering if I needed to 'open up' the holes a bit.
Might get to it today, working in the garage now, and the bikes still need some attending to.
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Have fun!
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I have not installed my new shifter linkage from Justin, is drilling the current holes to a larger size necessary to install this new linkage ?
So I've now owned my R65 for just over 24 hours. Not quite an expert on the Beemer but I do have considerable experience building aircraft components. Here's my suggestion for opening up the shifter holes and installing the neat "Justin Job"...
Skip using a drill bit for the initial cut. It's just too easy for the bit to aggressively bite into the shift lever and hog out the hole into something resembling a junior high school shop class fiasco. Instead, use an aircraft-style reamer in 0.250-inch diameter.
If the original hole is really too small for the short taper on the reamer's working end, then go ahead and drill out the hole but in a smaller diameter. Then ream to the finished 0.250. I'll need to access my AC tool suppliers and then post a couple sources.
The reamer produces a precision hole superior to a drill bit. Better holes = better shifts.
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I never thought of using a stepped reamer !
The ones I have are .185 in.'pilot', and then stepped up to .250 in.
What kind of aircraft maintenance experience do you have !
I'm an aircraft mechanic for Southwest Airlines here in Phoenix .
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If nervous about drilling too far then you can use a stop collar on the drill bit. As far as absolute precision is concerned it really is academic in this case as the stud at each end goes through the hole and is securely fastened with a lock-nut - all of the "movement" is in the actual joint. But, I'm all for ANY excuse to buy a new tool! ;)
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...What kind of aircraft maintenance experience do you have! I'm an aircraft mechanic for Southwest Airlines here in Phoenix.
Have built and flown two Experimental Category aircraft. Both plans built. A Rand KR2 taildragger with fixed main gear and a 1929-designed Pietenpol; open cockpit, parasol wing, lots of struts and wires. The two aircraft were at opposite ends of the performance spectrum. Both powered by self-built VW conversions. The KR hit 190mph on a two way average with two souls on board. The Piet was good at 65mph. With 3psi in the tundra tires, any field looked like an airport to me. Loved 'em both.
Did a bit of part tine mechanic work for a warbird shop. Mostly 100 hour inspections. Scored a few rides in P51s and other very cool birds.
Completed the oral exam for an A&P license but after deeper exploration of income potential, decided not to pursue it further. This was some years ago when many independent A&Ps were looking for work.
Do some flying now with the USAFAux/CAP. SAR, DEA support, Homeland Security...