The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => Chit-Chat => Topic started by: HOFFI on February 15, 2015, 02:00:09 AM
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Hi there to all here, I have just bought an 1980 R65 which as expected needs some TLC.
I will post some pics as soon as i have some...
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Welcome to our ever growing asylum. Lots of experienced inmates as yet unparoled so ask any questions you may have. If we don't know the answer, we're sure to make up something.
Yes, we love [smiley=camera_sm.jpg]
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thanks for the welcome and offer on the brain picking. as promised. i have all the missing bits in a box.
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Hello, and welcome!
I think Montmil has a "dashboard" for sale, if you're looking to replace your missing one... ;)
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Thank you. I have got the dashboard I'm busy replacing the cables so I removed it...hopefully I get them back today. Then it's a carb refurb and a tank clean and seal then the hard work starts...
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Howzit Hoffi
Another South African member (Durban). I have a 1984 R65 and am as happy as a pig in s..... with it. I have had a few BM's. R100RS which I found too heavy and an old 1962 R50 which I had for 42 years. The R65 is the best of both worlds - enough power and lightweight - I love it.
Jock
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Welcome aboard!
Yes, you do have some project time there - but you can do it with patience and persistence !
We are here to help!
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I may I just say that when it comes to help here in this forum, it is the best!! Never ever feel that your question or problem is not worthy. This is a very polite forum!
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Just for a little update on my small rebuild. All cables have been replaced. Carbs have been stripped cleaned and are just awaiting new main jets. All the lights and housings have been cleaned and blackened. Dash repaired and again blacked. The tank is in for a cleaning and petcock has been stripped and cleaned and is ready for use.
Next on the list.
Exhausts unfortunately I can't find original exhausts for anywhere near a reasonable price I have found guys that have Pretty good looking replacements
Brakes redoing all the brake lines.
Front shock service
And then at least I should have a running bike again.
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Hi Hoffi, welcome to the forum.
Nice to see another SA member. (I am based in Bloemfontein)
Enjoy your project.
I found local BMW dealers very helpful and reasonably priced on all spares in SA. Getting spares from over the water just becoming to expensive with our Rand losing value against the $ & £.
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That is for sure. I have started dealing with a company in the south of joburg. Cytech they were very helpful and prices don't seem ridiculous.
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Yes I have used Cytech a few times, good service.
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Ok so its been a while.
again another update and a few questions.
my bike is running probably not as well as it should be but at least i can climb on start it and do a few kays.
this is where the questions come from.
1. My rear end keeps seizing up (swing arm gets stuck in lowest position and the shocks are at max compression) has anybody had this before? i will have to look at doing the swing arm bearings anyway.
is there a local south african supplier i can get them from? are they standard taper bearings or BMW specific?
2. Also a local south african supplier for the rear shocks yes would need 2?
3. and to break away from the std original rebuild i have heard of a two into one exhaust system that is makes a very attractive sound, are there any views on this type of exhaust.
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1. My rear end keeps seizing up (swing arm gets stuck in lowest position and the shocks are at max compression) has anybody had this before? i will have to look at doing the swing arm bearings anyway.
is there a local south african supplier i can get them from? are they standard taper bearings or BMW specific?
I hate it when my rear end seizes up. Usually from eating too much cheese.
As to your R65, two things come to mind: 1) Rear shocks are frozen. No oil in them but lots of rust jamming them and, 2) Swing arm bearings in bad shape. Perhaps rusted and binding for lack of proper maintenance.
The swing arm bearings are a common size available at most any bearing supply house. Size is stamped on the race. You may find both sealed and non-sealed bearings. Go with the unsealed and re-grease them yourself prior to install.
You'll notice a hole in the swing arm "pin". After the new bearings are in, use a conical-shaped rubber tip on a common grease gun and pump grease into the swing arm until it begins to ooze out. It may take quite a bit of grease but it will prevent water / condensate from fouling the bearings.
You will need to modify a 27mm socket to remove and replace the pivot pins. By using a belt sander, remove the rounded or beveled face of the socket. Note the hex on the pivot pin is quite thin and a conventional socket will not have enough purchase.
Have you a Clymer or Haynes shop manual? having both is helpful. Where one manual glosses over a procedure, the other may go into more detail.
When you get it sorted, let us know what you find.
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just a short update and again a few questions.
after the last time i had posted about the sticky rear end. i have taken it upon myself to replace all my bearings. Starting with the steering head bearings (while i had the front end apart refurbishing the front shocks) so the hard part is done....old bearings removed new bearings bought.
Question 1: what type of grease needs to be used? if it helps at all as mentioned before i do live in south Africa on what we call the highveld so moderate temperatures all year round and very low humidity.
then to put the new bearings in:
my plans
for the lower bearing heat up the inner part of the bearing via the oven cool the lower yoke via the freezer. then a hope and prayer an a push the bearing on the shaft.
for the upper bearing
cooling of the race and the same hope and prayer
upper inner race heating praying and pushing pulling
ok so my plan is pretty vague. but its the general idea.
any other advice is always welcome.
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For the lower outer bearing race, sure you can warm it up. To install, use a suitably sized piece of metal tubing -doesn't have to be a heavy gauge wall- and tap the bearing home. There is a thin metal dust shield that drops on first. You may have one or perhaps not. They'll often get damaged when removing the lower race and sometimes folks just go on without one... as on my '81 R65. Add one if you plan to run the Dakar.
No need to chill the steering stem. That's plain ol' overkill.
Pretty much same for the upper outer race. If you have a large socket to match the race diameter but just wee smaller than the neck opening, use it. Carefully square up the race and drive it home. Confirm that it is fully seated before moving on.
Good ol' wheel bearing grease is just fine. Pack the bearings well and ride happy.
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done done and done, steering head bearings pushed, pulled, hit, heated cooled, packed in other words installed.
now its just buying a few more spares,o rings, rubber stoppers and dust caps for the shocks (have the seals and oil) then the front end can go back together completely.
as usual questions,
1. Does anybody know the actual size for the rubber stoppers? i work in the rubber industry and am pretty sure i can get them moulded.
2. My next challenge is the rear end. as mentioned i need to do bearings, i have the special socket. any other tips tricks or advise i need to know about or is the procedure from the bmw workshop manual sufficient.
thanks again.
PS i have been cleaning up the engine casings a little will post pics soon.
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finally i have all the needed spares to put my forks back together, the reassembly went well up to the point where i needed to add the oil, now i have the correct oil and the measurements and syringes to make sure i am going to put the correct amount...
The question however is where do i fill the oil, do i just fill the stanchion (fork tube)?
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My method of filling the forks is to remove the little plugs from the centre of the retainer at the top of fork tube. A narrow necked funnel will drop into the open hole, and then I pour the oil into each fork from a small kitchen type measuring jug I keep just for fork oil.
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Thank you that makes sence