The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: awaffa2003 on March 17, 2008, 08:18:11 PM
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Hey guys! I'm buying all the parts i've ever wantet right now so I can be done working on my bike while i'm on spring break. Just for now I only have one question. What flange size should I buy for a K&N filter, I dont want to use a ruler because I might mess up so I want to know for sure . I'm going for the round tapered style for each carb. Also does anyone know the fork tube size is? I need all these measurements because i dont own a caliper or anything accurate (maybe i should add that to my list).
So far i've bought:
NGK Iridium spark plugs
Headlight bucket
subframe(it was $9.99 and had a seat lock which is all i need)
Clymer manual
Clip-ons
fuel line
So far I still need:
Aztec8 Dual Headlamp Kit (check it out it's so cool aztec8.com)
Raask rearsets
Koso Tack/speedo or Trailtech tach speedo (haven't decided yet)
SS Brake lines
Rotor and caliper for dual disk set up
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I would just have to go measure my carbs with a ruler, so never mind that.
Which dual headlight kit? I was hoping they were HID but they still look pretty cool. I look forward to pictures when you're done.
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How many watts does the new headlamp set consume ? The charging system on these airheads can only support so much electrical draw, and that is in the vicinity of 280 Watts maximum, at which point it can't keep the battery charged. At lower RPMs it doesn't produce peak output either, so if it is a 100+W headlamp system and you leave it on while just chugging around in low speed in-town traffic, your battery is probably going to need some help from a charger the next morning.
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Why are you going for K&N's?? Other than for purely looks, the stock aircleaner is far superior for the road in filtering ability and no heartaches if it rains. Unless you are going to free up the breathing with head work, carburation and exhaust, any HP gains are, if any, minimal at best.
Bill................;-)
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Ed, I'm getting the 5 3/4 in. kit. I thought about buying a HID kit for it but they're so expensive. but for sure i'm putting some Phillips bulbs in them. I dont know whether to go with the orange "motorcycle lights" one or the super blue ones which would be really cool...Nhmaf, i have no idea how much power it would take because i don't know which bulbs i'm gonna get but thats a really good point, i never thought about that lol! Bill, i'm going with the K&N's purely for looks. I've always liked the look of the airbox and that black thing on top being removed. also there are shields that can be bought for them to prevent water from getting in them.
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How many watts does the new headlamp set consume ? The charging system on these airheads can only support so much electrical draw, and that is in the vicinity of 280 Watts maximum, at which point it can't keep the battery charged. At lower RPMs it doesn't produce peak output either, so if it is a 100+W headlamp system and you leave it on while just chugging around in low speed in-town traffic, your battery is probably going to need some help from a charger the next morning.
I know I'm only one data point, but when I installed my two 55 watt fog lamps I checked the charge at my battery with them and the high beam (60 watt?) on, and when the rpms were up to 4,000 I was getting almost 14 volts at the battery. I don't use the fog lamps when I have to go through a town, and rarely have my revs below 4,000 when I'm riding any place else.
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I installed a set of PIAA 40 55 w driving lights, and with the driving lights on, and the headlight on highbeam, 45 mph with no stopping is the slowest I can go without having battery charging problems.
If you are in 'city ' traffic, leave the driving lights off.
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Heh heh, the point of having all that light is so you don't have to go slower than 45! ;D
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ok you guys have thoroughly scared the crap outta me....if i put 2 normal 60/55's in there is it gonna run down my battery?
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If you ride in city traffic a lot, then the answer is yes.
When I lived in the Chicago area, I rode the bike to work during the warm weather.
I had a 5.5 mile ride, and 14 stop lights, if I didn't put the charger on the battery, or got the bike out for a high speed run on the weekend, the battery would get discharged in 7 work days to the point to where the starter would not work.
Since I moved to Phoenix, I have an 11 mile ride to work, 9 of those miles are urban expressway, and I have not had a problem in the 15 years here in Phoenix.
So you pretty much have to see what kind of results you get in your riding situation.
If you get out on high speed roads without much stopping, it's not a problem.
The charging system on your R65 puts out 280 watts maximum, with 3 55 watt lamps on that's 165 watts of use, factor in the tail light bulb, instrument lighting, and the ignition system, and you are probably in the area of 210 watts, not much if any left to charge the battery at low speeds.
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3 lights? naw i'm replacing my headlight with the dual lights. so like 2 55's for now (it doesn't even have a parking light, and the reflector os glass or something so I can't drill into it or at least that's what they told me) . I'm not putting the original ins. panel back on so its LED's for the digital gauges. I got that LED (motorrad elektric i think) tail light, the only other lights are my 4 turn signals wich don't really count depending on how much you use them. but isnt there some other alternators that you can buy for our airheads? omega and something else right. i'll check snowbum....
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There are replacement 400W aftermarket charging system replacement kits that are better able to handle these things, along with
the heated grips and/or electric vests that many beemer riders seem to have. As long as you are aware of this "achille's heel" of
the airhead bikes and ride/plan appropriately, you may be able to get along with your increased illumination system without
being stranded - either be sure to run with less lights if stuck in traffic, or be sure to get her out on the open road at or above 4K
for a respectable period of time, or just hook up a battery tender leads to it when it is in the garage.
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I remember an article from the BMW Owners News , quite a few years ago, and I don't know if this statement is true or not, but it was stated that the airhead bikes of our era, the early '80's, with no extra electrical loads other than what the bike came out of the factory with, that at 4000 rpm the alternator was producing enough electrical power to run all of the electrical load, and was not charging the battery.
There are two aftermarket higher output charging systems available for the R65, in the $500-600 range, the Omega, and the Enduralast systems.
One of the big differences in most motorcycle charging systems, is that the alternator rotor is spinning at engine crankshaft speed.
Next time you are under the hood of a car, take note of the difference in diameter between the pulley on the alternator, and the drive pulley coming off of the crankshaft.
The drive pulley is probably 2-3 times the diameter of the alternator pulley, so even at idle the alternator is spinning at 2-3,000 rpm, so it starts charging even at a lower engine rpm..
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I don't recall that article, but I am suspicious that the statement about the system's output being that low at 4000 rpm may not be right.
When the weather warms up some and I can stand to be in the garage again, I will perform an electrical test of Tillie's (r65LS) charging system.
Reading the other thread about spring rides I was very jealous - at least the temperature broke 40 degrees F today, but we had snow off and on all day,
which melted, and now has covered the roads in black ice.... almost ran into a car that was on its side in the passing lane on the interstate while driving back
from a client's office tonight. Now we've got wind gusts of around 50 mph, and this is the worst season for frost heaves in the road that I can recall in
at least 10 years - yup, this is springtime in new england !
;)
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So far I am pretty happy with the amount of light the HID conversion I used puts out. A single light kit is not much more than $100.
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Your carb inlet should be 52mm per realoem.com
Autolite 64 plugs werk fine and can be had for a buck. leaves more cash to throw at other stuff!
Add a filter to yer fuel line.
These guys make a nice SS brake line that exceeds the "Whip" test for DOT cert. I like 'em
http://www.helusa.com/
these are on sale for $6.49 with the coupon
http://www.harborfreight22.com/r/r.asp?r=195303125&i=Q2764109H7
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=93293
you are overdue for photos!
rich
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Ok guys here's the skinny! So far as of last night I put the spark plugs in, torqued them down and it started like a new bike, it was great. the only thing i'm worried about is that there might be oil getting on the plugs b'cuz there was this black oily crap on my old bosch ones, but theyre so perfect right now...crush ring just crushed and torqued just right! I took out the airbox without much difficulty exept for having to take off the battery holder. i had to undo the pulse air system which came out of the heads way easier than i expected, no penetrating oil or anything just came out like butter! i took off the starter cover just to see what was under there and thought it was a nice look, does anyone know if it's ok to leave it off? i know the airhead racers do and it would be cool. while i was at it, i took off my rear fender to see what it would look like and i was SHOCKED! it gives a WHOLE different look to the bike, i think the fender gives it a heavy, low look but without it you can see the tire n stuff, i'm definetely keeping it off. as for the tail light and signals, it looks good pushed back as far as it can go in the space between the seat cowl and the end of the subframe, but securing it there is another story...if anyone could come up with any ideas and fab it up, i could pay for it. i also took off my mufflers just to see how loud our bikes really are although i haven't been able to start it yet because i still need to plug the hole in the heads from the pulse air sys. and lack of air filters on the carbs. hopefully ill get all that i need by wednesday primarily the brake line and head plugs so i can give it a go up and down the street. pics are comin soon!
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To close of the ports in the head you can use 2 oil drain plugs 07 11 9 919 117 and 2 oil drain plug crush washers 07 11 9 963 252. don't forget to close off the vacuum take off ports on the carbs.
rich
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.webbikeworld.com%2FMotorcycle-technical-articles%2Fpulse-air%2Fvacuum-takeoff.jpg&hash=b76f390609903472ba7de594bec36303fcec1471)
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cool. ok next i need an oil filter which kit should i get and where should i get it from?
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I get mine from the dealer. It's one thing they actually stock!
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JACKPOT!!! the headlight came in today!!!! it took probably 20 mins to install only because i dropped a small locknut and it took about 5 mins to find...haven't wired it up though because i thought about what you guys said and i thought it would be a good idea to get a dual headlight relay from easternbeaver.com. I PROMISE PICS ARE COMING SOON! P.S. still don't know if i can safely leave the starter cover off.
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Personally, I'd leave the starter cover on unless this bike was mostly for showin and less for goin'
The cover isn't by any means dirt or water proof, but it certainly cuts down on the amount of stuff
that the starter motor casing has to deal with, and with the amount of rodents I have in my barn, it is another
barrier to them to help reduce the amount of chewed wiring, hose, etc I have to deal with.
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OK here we go guys tell me what you think! please look at them too, they were too big to attach here sorry!
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=13371&l=daf1f&id=533986563
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Get the Dealer Oil filter and at least 1 new O ring and 2 shims. Read Sues post on the $2ooo O ring and hit the internets for additional warnings! Most filter changes are no brainers but It seems that German engineers don't want just any Bavarian farm lad screwing with their design! A commonly routine task [filter change] is a critical science experiment on these bikes.
rich
http://largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html
http://largiader.com/tech/filters/#depth
I'm likin' the clip-ons, headlights and open look of the rear wheel!
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Lookin' Good
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Thanx for the feedback guys, last night was another one burning the midnight oil. I hooked up the headlight, but it was backwards, I matched the yellow, white and ground then i had to switch it because my high beam came on noramlly and low when i flipped the switch so i guess most other bike brands have theirs different, or BMW is just trying to be difficult...
I found a good spot for my tail light and signals, right where i said in between the seat cowl and the frame. I drilled through the angled side of the tail light, just as wide as the normal holes, put some "rubber spacers" in between the last fender mounting holes on the frame adn it was done! only problem was that the turn signals stick out too far and was hitting the cowling...so i took it off and the bike looks even cooler!
new pics on facebook http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=13371&l=daf1f&id=533986563
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That dual headlight looks weird but it goes good with the cylinders, I like it. Are you putting the mufflers back on?
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Thanks Ed! and no i'm not putting the original mufflers back on, i ordered a pair of emgo shorty mufflers from a kawasaki dealer in town along with an oil filter. they're supposted to come today so im gonna pick up some fluids too all exept engine oil, maybe some simple green. actually now that i think about it i need a lot of odds and ends now that i'm close to being done... zip ties, butt connectors (i don't think those twisties are gonna look too nice), black harness tubing, things to made everything look neater i guess. the only big things i have left to do is:
Install Trail Tech Speedo/Tach (bought last night)
Install Mufflers
Buy master cylnder rebuild kit and SS lines (need help finding both)
Buy K&N pod filters
Change all fluids, clean everything up
Sell spare parts
Then i'll be done...
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Quite interesting looking, but you are right - THOSE WIRE NUTS GOTTA GO!!!
In my opinion, unless you have a connection that is required to be "removable" the only way to splice wiring is with solder and heat-shrink tubing...
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i would...but my heat gun is broken and i'm tired of seeing my bank account dissapear. if anybody wants to donate a lighter or some other heating tool it would be greatly appreciated :D
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I've used a 99 cent butane lighter for that stuff for over 20 years!
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YESSS! mufflers, pipe reducers, and emgo oil filter came today! hope the oil filter isnt one that will disintegrate like the one from an earlier post! i'll take pics later on tonight. my speedo/tach isn't supposted to get here until tuesday :'( anyone have fluid recomendations? i need all except engine oil, i have the BMW brand from my dads wrecked oilhead (he's okay) that he never got to use. got some new BMW oil filters from the 1150RT too if anyone to take them off our hands. PM me.
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ok just changed the oil and filter last night. i got the hinged filter on accident but i called a BMW mechanic friend of mine and he said it was okay. i dropped the oil pan to clean any sludge that may have been in there and also removed and cleaned the pump strainer. before i put the pan back on, i took a scotch brite pad to it and the oil filter cover and they look like new parts! i dont know if im gonna use the pad anymore tho because it seems to scratch the metal, it looks good but you have to rub in 2 directions either up and down or side to side or else parts of it object will look weird.
i mounted up the mufflers and they look great! just gotta find someplace to mount the bracket because its quite snug but i dont want them falling off the bike or bouncing up and down. because of the headers, it makes them stick out too, which is a really cool look. ill post some pics tonight.
and i think it was in an earlier post that someone said that an oil pan plug whould plug the holes for the pulse air in the cylnders, i tried it last night and i didnt work, i dont know where i'm gonna get the right one cuz the hardware stores by me dont have metric plugs. i dont want to crimp off the fitting that went there before as ive seen that its an option...i'll figure something out.
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The M16X1 plugs are Oil Head drain plugs not the Air Head oil drain plugs
http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-technical-articles/pulse-air/
http://suraklyn.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1169328262
rich
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ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D!!!!!!! [smiley=evil.gif] [smiley=evil.gif] [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif]!!! MUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! and it sounds so NICEEEE! i still havent got any front brake or air filter but i didn't ride it and i don't live in a smoggy dusty city so i thought, eh....and OH MAN is it SWEET!!!! BUT there are problems [smiley=furious3.gif]... i hear a little squeak, and it doesnt really sound like a squeak its like when you put your mouth together and suck in air. i think i've heard of something like this before and i think the sound was coming from my carbs (btw: i still havent got the vacuum port screws, if anyone has some or knows the size and length i can get some at the hardware store, i was there today and i was like "crap" cuz i didnt know what to get). also i need to call milwaukee bmw, chicago bmw, or motorwerks to get that MC rebuild. i've decided not to get SS lines, i cant spare the money, i think i want custom lines because of the clipons.
i still have engine problems but i fixed the one cylnder problem with the spark plugs, now its dead spots. even after a good warm up i dont have good throttle response at all. although i've never known anything else and have gotten used to it, everyone thats heard it says that it isnt right. when i get my licence, hopefully soon so i can take the beginner riding course, i can take it to this BMW mechanic that's in my club. If anyone has ever been to the Blackhawk Region BMW Club Annual Flea Market, Earve Brauer, runs it and is the guy that i'm talking about.
Just to put it out there, the Flea Market is gonna be in April and the exact date is in the MOA mag. Its at the Pecatonica fairgrounds in Pecatonica, Illinois. I doubt the bike will be there but my club and i will...
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OH BTW when i changed my oil filter, the clymer said that the metal shim was "recommended," not needed and whoever put it on last messed it up (scary) so it was all bent beyond straightning so i didn't put it back on. also when i put the cover back on, th infamour white o-ring wouldn't stay in the groove part so i put it on the outter rim of the cover, that was okay right........
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awaffa,
The oil ring shouldn't be treated/considered lightly. If you have a caliper, you should measure the distance from the outside of the engine case to the inside
lip of the oil "canister" that the oil filter goes in. This will tell you how many metal shims you may need to use - we had a thread on this a month or two back.
In all cases, one really should use the metal shim so that the white o-ring isn't cut/damaged by the edge of the canister/oil filter hole. If the O ring (the $3000
o-ring thread) loses its seal, your oil circulation in the engine can be severely degraded, with the end result being needing new connecting rod bearing and crank.
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As long as it ends up in the right place its Ok (Between the cover and the end of the canister). No Shim? Get a new one and put it in first. Then comes the white O-ring then the filter cover. The shim should come with the filter kit from the dealer. I use both the hinged filter and the straight filter depending on what I can get. I like the double front light setup. Hmmmmm carb vacuum screws? Go to one of the online web sites that have parts fiches and look up the carbs on the 1979-80 Sept R65. The screws (and the fiber washers) you need will be on that fisch. Really small those.....
Good luck.
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Thank you Semper Gumby! and so that screw isnt something to be had at a home depot or someplace eh? if anyone's seen "The Princess Bride" one can relate to the line, "I hate waiting." Going through dealers takes SOOOOO long! actually i was thinking about getting a rubber cap for it, kind of like how there's a cap on the bleeder nipple on the brake caliper...yes, no, maybe so? and about that shim...i didnt get the BMW oil filter i got an Emgo so no extra shims. what do i do?
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Gotta have shims. Stop by the dealer & get another "O"ring as well as a shim or two. Pull the cover, put in (at least) a shim, then the new "O" ring, and if your clearance allows - a gasket.
Check the previous threads about the $2000, or $3000 "O" ring. VERY important!
Neat looking bike. Welcome aboard & good luck.
Ed :-/
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Harrison, I have a kit that contains the block-off screws, fiber washers, and stainless steel allen-head top cover screws. PM me if interested...
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Just to echo the others. The shim is mandatory! No if ands or butts! If you have installed the O ring without a shim it is now most likely useless. Do not run the engine until you have a new shim and O ring!! I have a supply of them on hand at all times. I will gladly throw a shim & ring in the mail. No foolin' ya can't run it like that! The oil filter installation is critical on these bikes. I may run cheap spark plugs, Chinese tires, discount shocks, home made seat but I will not shortcut the filter installation, don't you either!
rich
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LOL those lights are goin dracula on my battery!!!! not as bad as i thought but they pretty much shut off when i try to start the bike so i'm trying to find a place to mount a switch to turn it and the tail light off...hooking everything up isn't a problem, its finding a place to put your switches/gadgets on a naked bike...the only thing i know of that could help me mount SOMETHING is this bracket thing that i've seen on a lot of airheads that mounts a power outlet thingy on the top shock mount. anybody know where to find these? also i need to find a place to mount my ign. switch, stealth mode switch, and digital gauges. i think i've had a post on where i could mount my ign. switch in the battery cover but the only way i'd do that would be if i had an extra one and i don't. I've heard of putting the ign switch inside the seat lock if it was drilled out a little bit but that's not an option either as i like that function. i'll be posting more later on in the week because i still got some things in the mail, my digi. gauge for one!
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My headlight shuts off whenever the starter is engaged. There is a relay to make it so. Is your wiring still basically stock?
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yea it's all stock, i got a new wiring harness a few months ago as i shorted a wire out and burned up the rest. and unless all of the bmws shut off the headlight, i'm pretty sure mine doesn't although i haven't had a headlight on in over a year i think. i'm gonna go take some pics now (finally right...).
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The new pics are here my good fellows!!! http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=13371&l=daf1f&id=533986563
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Thanks for the update.
What have you figured out for the license plate mount?
Did I miss it in the pics?
Troy
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No, you didn't miss anything, Jon P is graciously giving me one to put on the bottom shock mount.
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That is so cool. We are such a Gr8 group.
Troy
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Yea I know right. here are some new pics of Trail Tech Speedo/Tach installation. I put captions on my pics also. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=13371&l=daf1f&id=533986563
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cool!
man i am diggin for that seat lock, i found the main bracket but i havent found the lock yet? sorry, i have been working like a dog with long hours and little sleep. my main problem is when i moved i packed it and now have to find it again. i have the lic plate mount on the bench waiting to ship when i find the other stuff. i may just send out a care package and when i find the seat lock sent that a little after.
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hey don't worry about it, no rush. i'm back at school now so i'm not feenin for parts everyday lol. just spoke with trail tech this afternoon and their customer service is great! i needed an extension for my engine temp sensor and they're shipping it to me free of charge! i'm almost done wiring it up also, the only thing stopping me is the stupid harness that trail tech put on the dummy lights. they have 4 lights that can be wired up but in the harness connection there are only 2 grounds because they hooked 2 up to one ground and i need 4. :( and i think i might have shorted something out trying to make it work last night... looks like i'm gonna have to cut off the connector and wire it up individually. i just REALLY hope nothing's messed up.
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A remark on the charging problem: My old diodeboard and voltage regulator never gave more than 13 volts. I have now installed a new combined unit = rectifier and regulator
http://picasaweb.google.dk/petertrolle/InstallingAnOmegaDigitalIgnitionControlOnTheBmwR65/photo#5185776877280594850
and this gives 13.7 volts at 2500 rpm and the charging light goes out at 1200 rpm.
greetings from a sunny north with good driving conditions
trolle
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eh yea when i get some more green i'll be going for mechanical/electrical upgrades (kinda backwards ehh) but for now i got speedo/tach pics!!! and money from my b-day so guess where that's goin??? those K&N filters aren't gonna have to wait much longer.
just a note, i found out the weirdest thing when i took out my carbs for a good cleaning. the clip that holds the rubber thingy onto the float in my hand was missing! i wonder if its gone on the other side...also, the only reason i haven't put it back together is because all my o-rings and my diaphram expanded. how can i put them back on???
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=13371&l=daf1f&id=533986563
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...some new pics of Trail Tech Speedo/Tach installation. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=13371&l=daf1f&id=533986563
I do like your "Vapor" TrailTech instrumentation system combined with the guard/light panel. I'm considering one to replace the large & bulky speedo/tach on my R65.
Quick question... What is the model number you have? Is it the "75-704 Generic for Conventional Forks" along with the "022-PDA Indicator dashboard" on another model number ? Any problems with the install other than your wiring issues?
Anyone else have experience with this aftermarket product? Me need feedback...
Thanks, Monte
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Yes, I LOVE it! the only thing that suprised me was it's size. it's kind of deceiving from the trailtech website. but it's cool. I had two problems, one, when i went to wire up the dash, there were only two negative terminals for four lights, i had to cut them off and use extra wire as there would be a short somewhere although some leads coming from the bike did have the same ground... also i ordered a engine temp sensor for the spark plug but it was too short, i called trail tech and told them about it and they sent me an extension for free. they have great costomer service btw. and yes i ordered both the numbers mentioned.
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Gracias, mi amigo nuevo del casa R65. Did you order direct or have to go through a dealer?
If this idea comes together, I may have some tach/speedo parts for sale.
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Your new "dash" does look quite interesting. Where did you get it and what did it set you back?
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I have been using a very much earlier version of the Trail Tech dash for some year on my cafe racer (6+ years). However mine is very much push-bike orientated. The idiot lights and rev counter are some serious improvements, as is the night lighting. I have a button on mine that lights up the dash in the dark, but it only stays on for 10secs I think, so it is rarely used.
Were you not attracted by the billets mounts?
How will you mount yours?
Mine is mounted off the back of the standard headlight, but it could easile mounted off the yoke(top triple tree).
Steve H
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Your new "dash" does look quite interesting. Where did you get it and what did it set you back?
The Trail Tech website lists the Vapor at $124.95 and the Dashboard/guard at $39.95.
http://www.trailtech.net/index.html
I have a buddy here in Denton that is a KTM & GasGas dealer. His shop is really "old school" and a neat place to chill out. The shop is listed on the Trail Tech site as a dealer for their products. Brian said if I wanted the units, he'd provide a deep discount. I'll follow up with how deep after I collect some more aluminum cans to pay off my current BMW parts bill.
Monte "What have I gotten myself into" Miller
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Justin, I ordered directly form TrailTech and spent exactly $204 on the computer, indicator dash, and engine temp sensor. The temp sensor was too short and they sent me a free extension.
Steve, I thought about getting the billet mounts but it's not really my thing. I try to stay away from billet parts, chrome, and anodized parts. They just don't go with the look i'm trying to get. My only exception has been chrome pipes ( I thought about black like the LS but they weren't loud enough). I also plan on getting an aftermarket oil cooler, not the BMW one, thats a bare metal color with red or blue anodized connections. I got that idea from the last MOA rally, there was a R90S Daytona replica there and it has this sweet oil cooler that was like that. I would really love to see the bike again, I haven't been able to find any close up original or replica pics online... Anyway, I mounted it on the right headlight bracket mount with the bolt from the bracket. I've been told that a bar across the two mounting holes would allow holes to be drilled to place the computer in the middle but I like it off center how it is.
My only problem is hiding all those wires!!! I'll take a pic later but does anyone have any suggestions? It's like a jungle down there...
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this is for you montmil!
btw no one ever responded to my last post....still have wiring problem...