The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Bob_Roller on May 14, 2008, 07:45:00 PM
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I've been under the misguided perception that replacement keys for our bikes were hard to find, that you had to get replacement blanks from BMW.
I went to a local key and lock shop, and had two keys made up without any problem.
The specification number for the blanks is B69K, Ilco part number SR61N.
This shop was quite knowledgeable about the OEM keys, I was told to use the replacement brass keys instead of the OEM steel keys, if I wanted my ignition lock to last longer.
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That's right, Bob !
I ended up doing the same thing a couple years ago, partly because I was down to my last "blank" BMW key, and
also because none of the nearby key cutters wanted to cut that key for me as the steel is much harder and dulls
their cutters quickly. I did find that on my LS, I had to grind/file down a bit more along the top edge of the Ilco
key where it starts to flare out to the round end - otherwise it wouldn't QUITE insert into the ignition far enough
to turn properly. Might be just that my ignition switch was already somewhat worn from all those stainless steel
keys being shoved in them... ::)
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That small hump, or stop had to filed down about 1/8 inch to allow the key to go in all the way.
So the keys are easily made from non-OEM sources.
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I got a dupe key for the RT (it only came with one key) cut at the local hardwear store in ambleside.
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There are several non-OEM keys that fit - for more than you ever wanted to know about BMW keys check out
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/keys/index.htm
Right now three of my bikes are keyed alike - I don't have to find a different key chain depending upon which I want to ride. The only odball is the oil head which uses a two sided key.
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I'd like to know how you got the three bikes to use the same key?
The ignition locks don't appear to be easily disassembled to replace the the innards.
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Unfortunately if you want a folding key you have to go OEM
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I was never really fond of using the folding key.
At one time , there was an OEM illuminated key head that would snap over the straight key.
No longer available.
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The ignition lock was the hardest - I seem to remember that I had to remove the switch mechanism by bending the tabs holding the housing around the electrical portion. Since the /2 does not have a real ignition key I only had to change one ignition lock to match the /6. All other locks(seat, fork, toolbox) were easily rekeyed to match.