The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
General Category => Chit-Chat => Topic started by: jamestnewsonr65 on April 17, 2014, 05:23:21 PM
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Hi, glad I found you guys.
A quick hello from a new member and new to bike owner.
I have my first which is a 83 r65ls, but I'm in the process of strip down for powder coat and paint etc. Engine will stay as is for the time being with only cosmetic changes. Was all running fine before tear down so just a clean and reassembly.
Hoping to get some good help when needed and probably ask the odd newbie question!
As you can see in the pics, I have gone to work already!
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Welcome aboard, James.
Your '83 LS has some features found on earlier Mks such as the ATE brake calipers from the 79-80 era and the earlier design "hernia" centerstand. Dome-top Bings and the newer style air box say 1981> plus the wheels are LS-specific.
Your last seven digits of the VIN, plus this site, will get you your bikes month and year 'born on' date.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin=6387284&part=&kind=P&arch=0
Keep us posted.
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I did wonder why the calipers weren't brembo. Looking at real oem it says the bike was registered in 12/81 but it was registered in the uk in 83. It had all the fairing on it when I bought it but will be selling all the bits I don't want.
I will be going for this look...... And probably posting silly questions!
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Most likely BMW Motorrad was using up leftover bits from the 1979-80 bikes before all the newest '81 parts hit the assembly line. Common practice at the Mothership.
Some of the lads in the UK and a few here in the Colonies have made up "wooden planks" covered with vinyl as is most likely the one in your photo. Should you go that seat route, keep a tube of 'Preparation H' in the under-seat tray. Your 'roids are gonna need it.
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Looks like a good looking bike! Cant wait to see how it turns out.
p.s. always listen to Monte, he's what you call an expert ;D
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... p.s. always listen to Monte, he's what you call an expert ;D
That's a load. I've just made more errors than most so you can chill on the expertin tag. ;)
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But if Monte wagers a beer on something, don't bet against him ;)
btw, James, my '82 LS sports the same calipers and center stand. Looks like your "target bike" has moved the battery to underneath the transmission. Never seen that before. Looks pretty sweet!
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My 81 r65 has the dual discs as well.
Looks like your "target bike" has moved the battery to underneath the transmission. Never seen that before. Looks pretty sweet!
That's most likely what I am going to do as well, boxer metal sells one for $150, not sure if it fits the r65, I'm just having my local fab shop fix one up for me to save $$ ;D
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For this one I think I will try and keep a lot of it stock and then be a bit more adventurous with the placement of parts once I actually know what I'm doing!
Steep learning curve, but enjoying at the moment and that's what counts.
I'll happily take advice from an 'expert' even if he doesn't want to be called one. :)
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I was going to move my battery under the transmission, classic BMW racer configuration. The only problem is you lose your centerstand, they won't both fit in the same space.
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The only problem is you lose your centerstand, they won't both fit in the same space.
Im not so sure if that is true or not, im currently fabricating one for my bike with a very small 8cell battery I bought from Alien Motion. if all goes as planned i could be able to keep my center stand on! I will post pics when its done and if it works i can send you dimensions. ;D
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I did wonder why the calipers weren't brembo. Looking at real oem it says the bike was registered in 12/81 but it was registered in the uk in 83. It had all the fairing on it when I bought it but will be selling all the bits I don't want.
I will be going for this look...... And probably posting silly questions!
Georg Bayer (http://www.bmwbayer.de/) is a great source for new parts. Good luck, looks like you have a great base.
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the bike looks good, you could also consider moving the battery up under the seat too. keep the pics coming.
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@rsmike thanks for the link, that's one I've not found as yet. Used motobins and motorworks so far.
Will start a resto thread when I get some time. Having the bearings pressed out the hubs and races out the steering head on Thursday then all is dismantled, so will have a bit more time.
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Just a heads up if you didn't already know... the LS wheels require heating the hub before you remove the bearings to avoid (potentially) destroying the expensive and hard to come by wheels.
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Clymer only mentions heat for installation but not removal. They only mention the bmw tool for removal. I was going to take them to my local motorbike shop and get them to remove them.
Not something I have done before, but if anyone has any great suggestions I am all ears.
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Not something I have done before, but if anyone has any great suggestions I am all ears.
Don't trust the Clymer manual on this one, it should have a special note for the LS wheels.
The compound alloy LS wheels have a hard rim but a soft hub and spokes. Supposedly it lent to light weight while retaining strength where it was needed. It's also why the paint cracks around the rim between the two alloys.
Anywho, this is from the BMW factory manual's special section on wheel bearings for the LS:
R 65 LS (Deep-groove ball bearings)
Remove brake discs (front wheel only). Place the wheel (hub down) on a hot plate and heat to app. 80 degrees C
Pull out the ball bearing with Kukko puller No. 21/3 and support bridge 22-1
Drive in the new bearing with drift BMW No. 00 5 550 while the hub is still warm
Make sure your motorbike shop knows about this or they could wreck the wheel. Using intense heat such as a torch could ruin the paint around the hub. Not sure if the alloy would suffer.
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You're right and I have taken the decision as it is my first time a)owning a bike and b)building a bike to not go to the generic motorbike shop and instead take a bit of a drive to bob porecha in Sydenham (uk).
Spoke to him today and he can do all the bits I need and appears to know what he is doing and has been doing it a long while!
I will attempt this on the next one if this build proves successful!
Thanks for the info.
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Glad to help. Pulling bearings isn't very difficult as long as you have decent tools to do it. I don't have a proper puller but I've used my little mig welder for pulling a number of outer races and it has made life much easier than going around with a hammer and drift.
If Bob will let you watch him work I'd take the opportunity to do so.
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Done my front bearings recently for no other reason than I did not know when they were last replaced. Removed without heat just a blunt punch and rubber mallet. New bearings went in nice straight from freezer again with no heat or damage, used correct size socket to facilitate equal force on bearing. Try not to read too much into these tasks and have a go but know when to stop. Lets face it most instructions are geared around the perfect world and not your shed and a few tools...
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[smiley=tekst-toppie.gif] Andrew's
[size=12]If a Bavarian farm boy can fix these motorcycles, so can you.[/size] -author inknown
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"If a Bavarian farm boy can fix these motorcycles, so can you". -author inknown
Jeez...what does that make me... :-[ :-/ :'(
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"If a Bavarian farm boy can fix these motorcycles, so can you". -author inknown
Jeez...what does that make me... :-[ :-/ :'(
A Tractor driver...........................
Lou
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"If a Bavarian farm boy can fix these motorcycles, so can you". -author inknown
Jeez...what does that make me... :-[ :-/ :'(
A Tractor driver...........................
Lou
A Rubber Cow Wrangler?