The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: VaSteve on May 05, 2008, 07:18:09 PM
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I got a couple of those carb rebuild kits from A&S. A diaphragm and a bunch of O-rings and such for $50. :o Anyway, I took the carbs apart to clean them really well once and I recall screwing the adjustment screws all the way in and counting to ensure I had it right when I put it back together. So, is this job really as easy as taking it apart and replacing all those things?
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It would be a good idea to spray carburetor cleaner through all of the passageways in the carb body, and make sure all of the jets and bleed orifices are open.
Replacing the throttle shaft o-rings wouldn't be a bad idea either, they are 28-29 years old.
Bing carbs are not too difficult to take apart and put back together again.
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It is fairly simple and straightforward. I would recommend doing them one at a time so if you get lost you have a "virgin" to take a peek at! [smiley=evil.gif] <mind-in-gutter-mode off> There are a couple of things that are "handed", as in they go on a particular carb depending on what side it is mounted on. The one that give people the most grief are the enricher parts, make sure you keep these straight - take lots of digital pix. If you remove the throttle butterfly you will most likely have to do some filing or grinding on the attachment screws as they are "peened" to keep them from loosening, falling out, and being ingested by your engine. :o If the kit does not have new screws then order some first as you will need them for reassembly.
<offensive reference removed>
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Man, there is a lot of cussing on that website. I mean I'm not saint, but it's making me blush.
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Well, Steve, wait until you get one spread all over the table and you might also learn (or invent) a few new words! Seriously, though, although his language is somewhat colorful (probably was a sailor) it does give a pretty good account of what you are liable to get into. But, on a daily running machine you probably won't have any of the massive crud buildup you would find on a "barn find".
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A reduced-cussing option:
http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100gs/carb_rebuild/index.html
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But, not nearly as humorous...
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Man, there is a lot of cussing on that website. I mean I'm not saint, but it's making me blush.
[smiley=thumbsup.gif] Agree. It has been my experience and observation that profanity both defines and limits an individual. ...IMHO
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I don't think they're getting you, Justin. I love that web site, it's one of the funniest things I've ever read. I have it bookmarked on my Yahoo page.
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Re: Justin's link: The bible on Bing rebuilds is here: http://home.insightbb.com/~cdpumphr/the_carb_chronicles.htm
If you knew the author on a personal level like I do, you wouldn't think it so funny... :(
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In regards to carb cleaner, it seems like Gumout has changed to a less 'powerful' formulation in recent years.
30 years ago, it would take off just about any crude in and on carb parts, but today, if you have more than a light amount of varnish and the like, it doesn't do much but stink up the area.
Back about 29 years ago, when I worked for a helicopter repair station in Chicago, I was told to use lacquer thinner on really dirty carbs, and it worked quite well, I don't know if it is cost effective or not to use it today, also ultra-sonic cleaners don't do a real good job either.
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I guess not, Ed, and I have no idea what Rob is referring to so I'll just shut up B4 I offend somebody else. Bob, I have used the Berrymans B12 (as long as there is no plastic in the same room) for as long as I can remember but lacquer thinner is a very good alternate but absolutely destroys rubber if left in contact very long. After hearing one of our members rave about their ultrasonic cleaner I bought one but have not used it yet...
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from my recent experiences, i would recomend buying 2 things. a jet spray carb cleaner and the berryman's carb dip cleaner. i would also recomend rebuilding the carbs at the time of cleaning, this would make things go ALOT smoother as most carb cleaning parts will eat and/or expand all of your rubber parts.
1st: DO NOT OPEN REBUILD KIT BAG YET! disassemble one carb including needle, float and choke. take/cut off old o-rings, gaskets and diaphram, throw them away. Dip carb body, float bowl, and all other odds and ends into the carb dip. now it depends on how gummed up your carbs are but i let mine sit overnight.
2nd: take parts out of dip. use the jet spray cleaner and spray out all of the little holes in the carbs, you should see the spray coming out of another hole somewhere in the carb. don't forget to spray out the choke holes, main jet and it's holder, float bowl overflow tube, and idle jet also. now what i did, i took all of the parts to my laundry basin and gave them a good washing with (don't laugh) laundry detergent and a toothbrush, i put a strainer in it too to make sure no parts went down the drain. now ur carbs probably look all shiny!!
3rd: while the parts are drying, disassemble the other carb, take off all o-rings, diaphram, and gaskets and let them soak. now depending on how long you think they should soak, you might have a little bit of down time between soaking and letting the other carbs dry but whenever the carbs are done soaking, take that one to the laundry basin and the dry carb back to the garage. now you can open the bag, separate the parts (there's 2 of everything) and start putting on the o-rings.
4th: i think this is where people get confused when it's really not that hard, it's easy to tell by the size of the o-ring to see where it goes. now i've heard of using grease to slip them on but i don't like the isea of anything other than gas in my carbs. to put mine on, i used a straight ice pic to kind of stretch the rubber into the groove, then rolling the pic around the part to seat the rest of the ring. put all of the o-rings on and reassemble the carb with all new gaskets. and repeat with the other clean and dry carb.
NOTE: I always got confused on how to put 2 parts back on the carbs, the choke and the throttly butterfly. the throttle butterfly goes into the top of the shatf when the counter sunk holes are facing the front of the carb. i've heard of grinding the butterfly but i don't believe that's its nessesary. now once it's inside the shaft, put the screws in, tighten them and back them out a little bit so that the butterfly is movable. this next part takes a lot of patience so bear with it, you have to move the butterfly around so that it's seated where if you hold the carb up to a light, you can't see ANY light come through. then tighten up the screws. now with the choke, i never knew which way to put the choke body back into the choke housing. the dot on the outside threaded piece goes towards the intake of the carb.
Hope this helps and good luck!
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i love those $30 gallon cans of carb cleaner you get at autozone. the only thing is be carefull when opening the can when it is hot out. they tend to build alot of pressure and will spray all over you arms and it does burn (that comes from some one who works with stuff like that all day, and have gotten enough break clean in my eyes to not even faze me as much anymore)
over all these bings are great carbs and pretty easy to rebuild. try some old kliens once, those are a bugger.
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yea i've always wanted some other carbs to play around with to see the difference between the CV and something like a mikuni or dellorto. even the "no name" ones that claim to be mikuni's on ebay i wouldn't mind although i think they're selling for like $200.
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I had a wild idea of fabbing up an intake manifold and mounting a single Weber 2bbl carb right about where the airbox currently sits. I had somebody talk me out of it as they made a convincing argument that the runner length would be too long and low-speed response would be something awful. I just remember going from twin SU carbs to a single Weber on my MGBs made a dramatic difference to the good.
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The Bing rebuild is not too difficult as long as you pay close attention and read a few how-tos before hand. I've not seen mentioned above the use of a nice thin smear of silicone grease on the O rings but it is just an added touch I like to use.
For those of ya all who might be thinkin 'bout using different carbs I once saw a setup using a floatless unit with a "tuned" venturi called a "lake injector". Really sexy lookin' but I really don't know how they ran. Anyone ever see / use them?
rich
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Was that that variable venturi "Dresserator" that Dresser Industries played with about 30 years ago?
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Ok, was able to do enough of this without too much trouble. Unfortunately 28 years of hamfisted mechanics or DIYers made it more difficult. I could only get one of the choke covers off because the screws were all stripped out on the other. I found the the gasket wasn't in there, so I didn't replace it - after the lesson learned with the oil filter kit and the gasket, if it comes apart without it, it's not getting a new one!
I couldn't get the butterfly off because the screws were going to strip.
So about all I could really do was spray more carb cleaner all over the parts I could get off and replace the diaphragm and the O rings on the bottom side. Good enough, I know this was rebuilt just before I bought it in 06 and I cleaned it up real good at one point.
Too dark to see if there was any improvement, but I really need to put stabilizer in this coming winter. That surging business sucks.
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Steve, this is one place that you GOTTA HAVE a gasket, regardless of how you found it. You will most likely have to drill the heads off the screws and replace with new but be verrrry careful (no, not hunting wabbits). The enricher circuit is really almost like a min-carb inside your main carb and hard telling what might be caused by an air-leak in this spot.
The "butterfly" has to have the "peened" ends of the screw either filed or ground off before safe removal can be accomplished. Hey, that's why the ends are peened in the first place! ;)
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Ditto to what Justin posted. No gasket = problem. As for grinding those little butterfly screws, Harbor Freight has a Dermmel like tool for less than $10. A needle file will also do the job.
rich
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=41695